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Found 15 results

  1. Patrick Gagnon

    Unknown tenant.

    I recently put in an order for 12 blue dream and 12 cherry shrimp. The shipping was delayed, Harrisburg PA distribution is terrible. Took over 9 days for them to arrive. 0 DOA. Nice! Anyway I've had them now for I'd say 2 weeks. One already is pregnant! And I recently found a guest staying. I have copepods all over, I heard they are fine. I'm not sure what this is. Looks to have antennas, like a snail or something.
  2. SonoranStorm

    New to Shrimp and Plants

    Hi all. So some background My 10g tank has: Blue Dreams Amanos 1 Cardinia that stowed away in a plant shipment I got 3 Rainbow Paskais 1 Celestial Danio Phoenix Moss Crinum Calamistratum (Onion Plant) Nymphaea Zenkeri (Tiger Lotus) Bolbitis Heudelotii (Creeping Fern) Eleocharis sp. Mini (Mini Dwarf Hairgrass ) Micranthemum (Monte Carlo) A random piece of Subwasstertang algea but i dont want that The overall goal of this tank is to be a shrimp tank with the neos and maybe a species of Caridina once I'm a little more experienced. But I have a hard time keeping the neos alive a friend who owns the LFS ive been buying them at recommended i try buying from a local shrimper because his shrimp might be more well suited to the local water than the shrimp he buys from abroad because he thinks its weird that im having a tough time with Neos. So I did just that when i met up with him he told me co2 might be the issue since it makes the water acidic and makes molting hard and it makes the water parameters more unstable so I stopped using Co2 for the time being and the shrimp look healthy. But the issue is I would like to keep using Co2 for the benefits to the plants and because id like to keep the carpet ive been working on. Current Parameters Temp: 74.5 F/ 23.6 C Ph: Between 6 and 6.4 (im bad at colors) but its yellow (API Test) Kh: 4 drops the chat says 4 degrees 71 PPM Gh: 6 drops the chart says 6 degrees 107 PPM TDS: Waiting on a meter from amazon. Lights are on between 4 PM and 9:30 PM for those who don't do the military time. Bellow are the spectral percentages of light if this helps anyone. Any advice on how and if I should add Co2?
  3. stlcopperhead

    Parasite ID?

    Hi all, I’m confused about the ID on this parasite/infection my neo has. She has nothing on her head/rostrum at all...it seems to be mostly around her eggs, with some on her shell, off to the side. I’ve done one salt dip on her already, and no change so far. I have some great pics of it, but even a single pic is apparently much to be posted here. Can someone help me out with that? Newbie, here. ?
  4. It is probably too early to start this but as I have no idea really what I am doing I thought it a good idea to maybe get others thoughts/ideas from the beginning? The aim is to find out if I can reduce the life of the 'buffering' of soil substrates for anyone wanting to use soil substrate with cherry shrimps which do better at higher PH than buffering substrates run, until they are exhausted, and before they get shrimps in the tank - that can't be many people I know??? I set up a betta tank mid March and the buffering with the JBL substrate stopped about 4 months later., though you may be able to knock off a month as I was only doing part (25%) water changes? Obviously no one wants to wait that long so I am just trying this experiment as I have 2L of shrimp king soil left over anyway. that I won't use! At the moment I have put 5L dechlorinated tap water in a bucket with 1L of substrate. The tap water is PH7.5 (KH3, TDS 154) and I am planning to do 50% water changes twice a week until the PH gets back to the 7.5 at which point I can assume it is exhausted? I will then try the same experiment using PH+ to see if that will speed up the process, but I haven't ordered that just yet? Any suggestions, am I doing it correctly, does it even make any sense? So this should give me an idea of how long it will take to stop buffering just using tap water but doing twice weekly 50% water changes, and then whether using PH+ would speed it up notably? This is just to get an idea, and different soil substrates will probably be different so I am not really looking for a definite answer as to the time length etc, more an idea as to whether either of these will work well for others in the future that want to keep cherry shrimp with the soil substrates. Having said that I have always kept cherry shrimp in lower than recommended PH (to start wirh) without a problem anyway? Simon
  5. FrumpyJack

    Possible tank invader?

    I have only been keeping Neocaridinas for about two months now, I have 10 blue dream neos in one tank, and 12 orange neos in a separate tank. The tank with the 10 blue dream neos has been slightly problematic though because it's a smaller tank and waste builds up a little faster. That being said, can anybody ID this swimmer in my shrimp tank? There is only 1 that I can see, it appears to have an exoskeleton almost like a shrimp, and it swims at the surface of the water by whipping its tail. I don't think it's a baby shrimp fry because I'm just now seeing my first female berried up and there haven't been any births before, but I suppose it is possible a fry snuck in with my order. Any help would be appreciated ?
  6. I'm starting a brand new #neomix tank. I won't be adding or taking out any shrimp, just documenting developments along the way. I'm interested to see if any new variants develop, and what the tendency towards brown is. I'll be sharing updates on my channel if you are interested in following along. Enjoy! #shrimptv
  7. Green shrimp I looked at one of my green Neocaridina under the microscope, and I'm trying to determine if all green shrimp are like this... or just mine. Any insight from other green or jade shrimp keepers?
  8. It's official! Red and Blue marble offspring are... red and blue! #shrimplab #coolgenetics #neocaridina #microscope See the hatchling right below mom in photo! Video found: https://youtu.be/XELenET9vfA
  9. Hi guys, i'm just curious, how much does each neocaridina shrimp cost in your country? i'm in Indonesia, and they are really cheap, i bought 30 red cherry shrimp for about 1 dolar ( 15000 Rupiah ).. Thank You..
  10. This article was written by Werner Klotz, the scientist who authored the recent description of CRS and tigers from Southern China. I have written permission from the author to translate and reproduce the article here. I thank the author for permission to post this information here. I apologise in advance if my translation differs substantially from the original. The original article can be found (in german) here: http://www.wirbellose.de/klotz/neocaridina.html Caridina or Neocaridina? © Werner Klotz Many of our dwarf shrimp do not have a scientific name and are instead referred to as Caridina sp. or Neocaridina sp.. In aquarists literature - (I believe the author is referring to online forums, magazines, ect., but not scientific literature), one occasionally finds the idea that species with large eggs and direct-developing larvae (larvae that essentially hatch as mini adults) belong to the genus Neocaridina, whilst species that have planktonic larvae and small larvae belong to the genus Caridina. This is incorrect. The type of larval development has nothing to do with which shrimp belong in which genus. In 1938, the genus Neocaridina was divided from the genus Caridina by Japanese scientists (1). The separation of the two genera was based on the inner branch (Endopod, En) of the first swimming leg pair of male animals. In species of the genus Neocaridina, this has a pear-shaped, distally broadened shape. The internal appendix (ai), a small appendage on the inside of the endopod, is found (if present) always in the basal region (bottom) of the endopods (Figure 1). Figure 1 In the species of the genus Caridina, the endopod has an elongated, sheet-like, distal, narrow shape. An internal appendix is found (if present) near the distal end (the end furthest away) of the endopods (Figure 2). Figure 2 Another thing which differentiates Neocaridina and Caridina can be found in females as well. On the first maxilliped (the legs around the mouth that assist in feeding), many (but not all) species of the genus Caridina have an exopodite (a finger like spur). This is absent for species in the genus Neocaridina (Figure 3 & 4 - arrow). It should be noted that the separation of the genus Neocaridina has been opposed by some taxonomists. In their opinion, the term Neocaridina is just a synonym for Caridina (2). The genus Neocaridina was recently reviewed by Cai (3) who confirmed the genus as being separate to Caridina. Literature cited: 1) I.Kubo, J. Imp. Fish. Inst. Tokyo 33:67-100,1938 On the Japanese atyid shrimps 2) MS Hung, J. of Crustacean Biology, 13(3): 481-503, 1993 Aytyd shrimps (Decapoda: Caridea) of Taiwan, with descripitons of three new species 3) Cai, Y, Acta Zootaxon. Sinica 21: 129-60, 1996 A revision of the genus Neocaridina (Crustacea: Decapoda:Atyidae) Text and photos © Werner Klotz 2003
  11. I picked up a packet of Hikari Crab Cuisine at the LFS and then noticed it contains copper sulfate. I was thinking of feeding some to my neocaridina davidi var. orange until I noticed the copper sulfate in the ingredients. Plus, I realize now Hikari also makes shrimp cuisine but I believe it also contains copper sulfate. The only thing the shrimpettes have ever been fed is biofilm and Marineland Color Enhancing Flakes which supposedly does not contain copper according to the company. Am I taking chances feeding the Hikari Crab Cuisine to them? Or, is this the type of copper that is actually good for them in small amounts?
  12. hey folks! I've been figuring out what might be the most productive cherry breeding project for a beginning like me, and I've got a few Qs to see if I'm understanding this right. I really appreciate the info in this subforum so far, especially the family trees! 1. I have some yellows of varying quality. If I'm right, the possibilities are deeper yellows (neon and sakura), yellow rilli, and green, correct? Has anyone had success getting greens? 2. Crossing colour forms that originate from different wild-type strains will tend to throw wild-type culls a lot, correct? So if I were to breed my yellows with some reds, I'd get a ton of culls and it wouldn't be very productive? 3. I quite like chocs, bloody marys, and deep blue - so would getting some chocs be a good way to explore these varieties? Thanks!!
  13. revolutionhope

    heat tolerant shrimps

    Greetings good folk of SKF, I'm interested to know what people's experiences are with keeping shrimps at higher than normal temperatures? My cherry cull tank had to endure temperatures between 28-35 for several days in a row this summer. All remaining berries were dropped at this time but some of them seem to be in good health still, while others have perished. There are a few batches of juvies in there at the moment and as they mature I am just curious whether the survivors were to breed again and then later generations were forced to survive the summer again and the process repeats over the course of a few years etc etc then to what degree might it be possible to breed a cherry shrimp at is "built for aussie conditions"? Keeping shrimp cool can be an expensive and/or hobby-killing exercise and in my opinion it would be a great thing for them to comfortably survive temps in the low 30s (or higher). I also know that the person i got my CRS from have told me that they had handled 28C safely at least for short periods. The ones that I got from him coped with several afternoons that reached 27 even briefly reaching 28 - and breeding didn't seem to be effected at all. Could anyone guess how much further the envelope may be pushed? love n peace will
  14. revolutionhope

    What's your favourite cherry ?

    I'd like people to share what their personal favourite neo variety is. New or old, regardless of whether you have kept them before or not.I'm going to start it off - Orange is my favourite, both the old sunkist and the new orange rili as seen at the inaugural aussie shrimp comp in melbourne this year. olve n peace will
  15. Howard18

    Howard's Shrimp Tank

    Hello all, I'm new here in the forum, having just registered and made an introduction yesterday. As promised, here are some current photos of my tank. I intend to keep a journal to document the growth and expansion of my blue velvet colony. My current tank parameters are: PH: 7.4 - I have tried to lower this to 7.2 with PH down but a day after seemingly successfully lowering the PH it shoots back up Water: Tap water treated with Seachem Prime Temperture: ~25°C Ammonia: 0ppm - I was struggling with high ammonia a few weeks ago but there was nothing in the tank except for some shrimp snowflakes (I left it in for a week, maybe that's why?). Interested to know if this happens to others here? Nititrite: 0ppm Nitrate: 10ppm KH: 100ppm GH: 100ppm Tank and Equipment: - Upgraded to Fluval Edge 46L lighting (42 LEDs instead of 21) - AquaOne 25w heater - Sochting Oxydator Mini - Eden 501 cannister filter with an extra bag of carbon (replaced HOB filter that came with the tank) - Aquael 3w UV sterilizer Fauna: - 13 Blue Velvet Shrimps - 1 Riffle Shrimp Flora: - Hairgrass (Elocharis Acicularis) - Flame Moss (Taxiphyllum sp.) - Phoenix Moss (Fissidens Fontanus) Without further ado, some photos of my tank: This is the front view of my tank: From the top down: Some of my blue velvets in the tank: My setup: Thank you for looking and feel free to leave comments! Best regards, Howard
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