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  1. The in depth guide to keeping as well as breeding Amarinus lacustris by Hervey Doerr-Rolley Overview The aim of this article is to educate and warn people of the mistakes I made and how I was successful with breeding and keeping this species. I published an article about this species several years ago so thought it was time for an updated guide for anyone wanting to keep and breed this species. All my knowledge about this species has been developed over the 4 years I've kept this species as well as the many scientific articles I've studied, I first kept this species when I was 15 and now 19, my colony is still going strongly. Currently studying a bachelor of Marine science. Firstly I'd like to point out this species does not have a larval cycle, it is a far too common misconception people have. I believe this thought is derived from their much larger cousin the Amarinus laevis and the Thai micro crab, Limnopilos naiyanetri. Amarinus lacustris have fully formed offspring, meaning their offspring are essentially miniature adults once hatched from their egg. Some points of interest about this species, there are 8 instars before their pubertal moult. Females up to two moults before their pubertal moult can copulate and store spermatozoon, once she reaches the pubertal moult she can then impregnate herself without the need of copulation. The stored spermatozoon can then be used up to 15 separate brood cycles (15 clutches of eggs). Adult females can carry up to *35 eggs (anecdotal) and take around 25-30 days at 15 degrees Celsius to hatch as fully formed offspring. Water chemistry A. lacustris have a strong preference for hard water, I keep and breed mine in; pH: 8-8.2 Ammonia:0ppm Nitrate:0ppm Nitrite:0ppm KH:125ppm *25% water changes are done weekly* Breeding and Husbandry Key points for their care; Gravel substrate - fine pea gravel is best. Air pump sponge filters are essential as this provides cleaner water as well as a feeding ground for the offspring as well as adults. Mulm and moss are essential. A good rule of thumb from my experience is 500ml of aquarium space per baby-sub adult, and then 1L per adult crab, this allows for less aggression from male to male behavior. It is up to you but the less stocking density the better due to the aggression of breeding from males, keep in mind this aggression is only towards other males however females that are being copulated with may sustain serious injuries if too many males are kept together. The best ratios are two males to 8 females. When a female sheds she releases hormones into the water column just like shrimp, if any of you are familiar with breeding shrimp you can note this by the erratic and fast speeds the males zoom around the aquarium searching for the female, this is the same case with A. lacustris except the swimming, rather they crawl quickly around the aquarium in search for the female to copulate with. Once the male finds the female he will grasp the female tightly underside to underside in a 'hug' embrace, he will then fertilize the female. This embrace can last minutes or hours depending on the male. Eggs will soon become visible and as described above hatch within 25-30 days*. This species is a cold water crustacean so you must remember that, breeding will cease if the temperature goes above 22 Celsius. Keep them in a mature mulm filled aquarium with leaf litter (I use oak leaves) with plenty of hiding spots and moss, a 8pH and 15 Celsius and before you know it you will have berried females. Feeding Surprisingly my A. lacustris do not eat commercial foods, I feed mine cultured white worms which are perfect as they grow to a max size of 3cm and survive underwater for several days. I also add snails to my aquarium as the crabs feed on their feces. Funnily enough baby crabs will eat the white worms too once they are 2 instars old, so it is not uncommon to see a 2mm baby crab hanging on to a 2cm long white worm! I feed my crabs every 3 days and small amounts of the worms to reduce water quality issues. Common questions I am asked As I was the first person in Australia and the world to raise fully tank raised F2 offspring i have come across many commonly asked questions. "can I get these crabs in country x?" so far you can legally only get these crabs in their native geographical regions, however once these crabs are even more commonly bred their popularity over the Thai micro crab will be clearly abundant simply due to their ease of breeding which you know, therefore I wouldn't be surprised if these hit the international market once they're being large scale bred. "Do you have any for sale?" when I have crabs for sale I have a waiting list, If you want to ask questions or be on the waiting list email me: [email protected]. "can these go with fish x?" if the fish is 4cm or less they are fine generally, my opinion is keep the species only or with shrimp which leads to the next question "are the shrimp safe" and yes they are, however they are naturally scavengers so if you have dead or sick shrimp they will eat them, if your shrimp are healthy they will not predate on them. "how long do they live for?" they live for around 2-3 years+. "why are all my crabs dying" this question is addressed below; Major issue that needs to be addressed Since my first sales of A. lacustris I suddenly saw a spike of ads for them in Australia, unfortunately I could tell the individuals for sale were all wild caught and at best had only lived in an aquarium for a couple weeks of their life. This then would result in people encouraging the decimation and local extinction of the species in our waterways due to peoples greed of wanting to make a quick buck off this amazing native species. The crabs that I breed and sell are all aquarium raised individuals ONLY, I have put time, money and effort into the crabs I breed to ensure I do not impact the wild populations and offer aquarium suited specimens for people wanting to keep them. I have had a plethora of emails from people asking me why crabs they had sourced outside of my individuals had suddenly died off, this is simply due to the fact these crabs have not been aquarium raised and selectively bred for years like mine have. I find it horrendous that people think it is okay to collect many wild individuals to then sell knowing full well they will die within around a 3 month period just for their sake to make some 'fast' money. So please before you buy from a seller of these crabs ask as many questions as you can to find out how many generations old your crabs are and how long they've been bred for etc. If they cannot supply a high amount of detail or simply quote my articles about them do not buy from that seller. Do not support poachers for your aquarium! This applies with all species, worldwide. Thank you for reading my article, again if you have any questions feel free to email me as I'm always happy to help out ethical keepers and potential breeders of this species. Author and credits: Hervey Doerr-Rolley
  2. The in depth guide to keeping as well as breeding Amarinus lacustris by Hervey Doerr-Rolley Overview The aim of this article is to educate and warn people of the mistakes I made and how I was successful with breeding and keeping this species. I published an article about this species several years ago so thought it was time for an updated guide for anyone wanting to keep and breed this species. All my knowledge about this species has been developed over the 4 years I've kept this species as well as the many scientific articles I've studied, I first kept this species when I was 15 and now 19, my colony is still going strongly. Currently studying a bachelor of Marine science. Firstly I'd like to point out this species does not have a larval cycle, it is a far too common misconception people have. I believe this thought is derived from their much larger cousin the Amarinus laevis and the Thai micro crab, Limnopilos naiyanetri. Amarinus lacustris have fully formed offspring, meaning their offspring are essentially miniature adults once hatched from their egg. Some points of interest about this species, there are 8 instars before their pubertal moult. Females up to two moults before their pubertal moult can copulate and store spermatozoon, once she reaches the pubertal moult she can then impregnate herself without the need of copulation. The stored spermatozoon can then be used up to 15 separate brood cycles (15 clutches of eggs). Adult females can carry up to *35 eggs (anecdotal) and take around 25-30 days at 15 degrees Celsius to hatch as fully formed offspring. Water chemistry A. lacustris have a strong preference for hard water, I keep and breed mine in; pH: 8-8.2 Ammonia:0ppm Nitrate:0ppm Nitrite:0ppm KH:125ppm *25% water changes are done weekly* Breeding and Husbandry Key points for their care; Gravel substrate - fine pea gravel is best. Air pump sponge filters are essential as this provides cleaner water as well as a feeding ground for the offspring as well as adults. Mulm and moss are essential. A good rule of thumb from my experience is 500ml of aquarium space per baby-sub adult, and then 1L per adult crab, this allows for less aggression from male to male behavior. It is up to you but the less stocking density the better due to the aggression of breeding from males, keep in mind this aggression is only towards other males however females that are being copulated with may sustain serious injuries if too many males are kept together. The best ratios are two males to 8 females. When a female sheds she releases hormones into the water column just like shrimp, if any of you are familiar with breeding shrimp you can note this by the erratic and fast speeds the males zoom around the aquarium searching for the female, this is the same case with A. lacustris except the swimming, rather they crawl quickly around the aquarium in search for the female to copulate with. Once the male finds the female he will grasp the female tightly underside to underside in a 'hug' embrace, he will then fertilize the female. This embrace can last minutes or hours depending on the male. Eggs will soon become visible and as described above hatch within 25-30 days*. This species is a cold water crustacean so you must remember that, breeding will cease if the temperature goes above 22 Celsius. Keep them in a mature mulm filled aquarium with leaf litter (I use oak leaves) with plenty of hiding spots and moss, a 8pH and 15 Celsius and before you know it you will have berried females. Feeding Surprisingly my A. lacustris do not eat commercial foods, I feed mine cultured white worms which are perfect as they grow to a max size of 3cm and survive underwater for several days. I also add snails to my aquarium as the crabs feed on their feces. Funnily enough baby crabs will eat the white worms too once they are 2 instars old, so it is not uncommon to see a 2mm baby crab hanging on to a 2cm long white worm! I feed my crabs every 3 days and small amounts of the worms to reduce water quality issues. Common questions I am asked As I was the first person in Australia and the world to raise fully tank raised F2 offspring i have come across many commonly asked questions. "can I get these crabs in country x?" so far you can legally only get these crabs in their native geographical regions, however once these crabs are even more commonly bred their popularity over the Thai micro crab will be clearly abundant simply due to their ease of breeding which you know, therefore I wouldn't be surprised if these hit the international market once they're being large scale bred. "Do you have any for sale?" when I have crabs for sale I have a waiting list, If you want to ask questions or be on the waiting list email me: [email protected]. "can these go with fish x?" if the fish is 4cm or less they are fine generally, my opinion is keep the species only or with shrimp which leads to the next question "are the shrimp safe" and yes they are, however they are naturally scavengers so if you have dead or sick shrimp they will eat them, if your shrimp are healthy they will not predate on them. "how long do they live for?" they live for around 2-3 years+. "why are all my crabs dying" this question is addressed below; Major issue that needs to be addressed Since my first sales of A. lacustris I suddenly saw a spike of ads for them in Australia, unfortunately I could tell the individuals for sale were all wild caught and at best had only lived in an aquarium for a couple weeks of their life. This then would result in people encouraging the decimation and local extinction of the species in our waterways due to peoples greed of wanting to make a quick buck off this amazing native species. The crabs that I breed and sell are all aquarium raised individuals ONLY, I have put time, money and effort into the crabs I breed to ensure I do not impact the wild populations and offer aquarium suited specimens for people wanting to keep them. I have had a plethora of emails from people asking me why crabs they had sourced outside of my individuals had suddenly died off, this is simply due to the fact these crabs have not been aquarium raised and selectively bred for years like mine have. I find it horrendous that people think it is okay to collect many wild individuals to then sell knowing full well they will die within around a 3 month period just for their sake to make some 'fast' money. So please before you buy from a seller of these crabs ask as many questions as you can to find out how many generations old your crabs are and how long they've been bred for etc. If they cannot supply a high amount of detail or simply quote my articles about them do not buy from that seller. Do not support poachers for your aquarium! This applies with all species, worldwide. Thank you for reading my article, again if you have any questions feel free to email me as I'm always happy to help out ethical keepers and potential breeders of this species. Author and credits: Hervey Doerr-Rolley View full article
  3. Hey guys new to the wonderful world of shrimp keeping, my tank has been cycled for about 3 months now and start of December I got my first shrimpey's! I choose blue jelly's as they are beautiful ? a month in and I have about 3 sets of babys swimming around!! They are all super clear right now getting slightly more blue each day, but there's an odd guy in the bunch..one of the biggest infact is completely see through orange in colour!! No clear no blue but orange..he's got such character and is often doing zoomies around my tank ? but yeh couldn't seem to find any info out there so thought I could consult the community thank you for any opinions on this lovely little oddity Struggling to get pic uploaded because of size issues will try update with pics tomorrow
  4. abbytherookiehuman

    fish breeder feedback

    hey everyone so i know this is a shrimp forum but im betting that most of the people on here have fish too im a school student and ive decided to design a new breeder box that beats the flaws of other existing products for my major work i was hoping you guys could just reply with what method or model of breeder box you use to save your fry, what kind of fish you use it with and any pros and cons of these methods thanks in advance for any replies.
  5. Flynn002

    Project

    Hi, I am doing a project for my college course: How does temperature affect the number of fry a cherry shrimp produces? I have setup a small 18L nano tank and it’s currently cycling. When ready, I am planning on taking 1 male and 1 female cherry shrimp from my main shrimp tank and putting them in the new tank. and waiting until I see eggs. I will then remove the male and when the eggs have hatched, or when the babies are big enough to see, I will count them. I will then repeat this with different temperatures. it seems like it will all work in theory and I have 1 year to do this so time is not an issue. The only issue I see is that I’m unsure how Will I accurately count the fry? This is vital for my project and if anybody has ideas I would greatly appreciate it. cheers :)
  6. Curious how much i should let them age if its even a concern before i sell some of my babies.
  7. Hey everyone, I was recently (meaning today) given the opportunity to set up a breeding tank for some native inverts (or some harder to breed fish I guess, but I want to go for shrimp) in a fishroom I help out in. I've been trying to decide what native shrimp I want to try breeding, but then I remembered that it's not as simple as exotics. Can I get some input from the 'experts' (@Grubs, @NoGi, @Baccus, @fishmosy, @jayc of course, I know most of you aren't very active anymore, but I would appreciate your help if you see this message) on what native invert you guys think is easiest to breed (for a semi-noob who hasn't kept natives before). I can set it up as brackish I think, we have an archer fish tank there and are setting up a saltwater as well so should have access to those tools and materials. Cheers!
  8. sky99

    Do pinto breed true?

    Hello everyone! I bought some pintos, and i did put them with my other bees (some panda, some king kong, some blue bolts). However, i can't seem to find if pintos do breed true (in that case, should i separate them? or will those mix with the others to make cool new paterns, colors, etc?) I have a hard time figuring what bee breed true if any. I've read that bee are a mutation of CRS/CBS, but do they produce similar offsprings or is it more random as an interaction of multiple genes? Thanks in advance for the help!
  9. Hi, I’ve got a 55 litre tank with some guppies, cardinal tetras, panda and peppered cories, amano shrimp and cherry shrimp (oh and a few unintentional snails). I’ve just discovered that there are maybe 10 tiny cherry shrimp (less than 2mm) underneath a piece of wood in the tank. Will they survive with the other species in the tank or should I put them in a breeding box at the top of the tank (I already have one) to stop them becoming fish food! Never had anything breed in the tank so far, so not sure what’s best. Thanks, Chris
  10. Hey SKFrs, I'm creating this thread in the hope that it gets a lot of input and brings a serious subject to the forefront of our attention so we can all learn from each other. In short; I'd like to know what people's processes are for culling weakest and selecting the best shrimps. I can say honestly when I first kept shrimp I barely culled whatsoever, and that gradually I am culling more and more strictly.. I can think of a few reasons why/how I've been heading in this direction. Some of these questions might only apply to breeders who have been selecting shrimp for several years while others may be relevant to people newer to shrimps; in any case some of the key points I'd love to get people talking about include - (in no particular order) What numbers of mature shrimp do you like to keep in a colony? At what size do you cull males and/or females? What do you do with your culls; do you kill/feed the worst of the worst or give them away or sell them very cheaply? What do you do with your culls? Do you partition of your tanks or use breeding boxes to keep your best males and females breeding while your main colony matures? Do you introduce new genetics and if so how often and would they preferably be males? or females perhaps? What differences do you think apply when choosing your best males or females for solid neos vs rilis vs different pattern bees vs TB etc etc you get the idea.... Has anyone found any clear proof of what traits males or females are specifically more likely to pass on in different shrimps? OK That was a lot !!! I hope I haven't put you all by raising so many items of discussion but I hope someone can address at least one of these and get the ball rolling :-) love n peace will
  11. Hey guys! I've had my CRS for close to a month now (bought about 20 juvies and adults on 30th June) and they seem to be really happy and healthy in their tank with the painted fire reds. So far the PFRs have been berrying and breeding like crazy but I've yet to see any berried CRS ? Tank Parameters: Size: 14 Gallon Long Ammonia , Nitrite 0ppm Nitrate 20ppm pH 6.3 dKH 2 dGH 7 TDS 170 Temp 23-25c Diet: Bacter AE (1 scoop once a week-mainly for the PFR babies), Bornoewild Frenzy (once a week), Indian Almond leaves and aldercones for when they get the late night hunger pangs ? So my question would be, do my CRS require some additional protein in their diet? I've been told breeding is quite a energy intensive activity for shrimp. And if so, would feeding some frozen blood-worms help to supplement this? Thanks for reading!!
  12. Zebra

    My dragon betta

    Hello, So today while visiting a friend who works at my local fish shop I could help but buy a couple of Bettas they had there, we've been talking lately about Bettas they plan to breed. I've got them in they 5-bay I sumped over my shrimp tank till I set them up a better tank, lol.
  13. I currently have a Fluval Spec V which is my shrimp tank, stocked with 20~ Cherry Shrimp, 1 Orange Rili (berring when I bought her and successfully birthed fry), and 2 Crystal Blacks. Last week I ordered 20 Assorted Rili Neo Davidi Male Shrimp (I thought I was ordering a mix of Males & Females, sadly mistaken). I also ordered the Dennerle/Shrimp King 10g (Shrimp King Tank) to put them in seperate from my Cherry Shrimp tank. My question is this… I want to interbreed these Rili shrimp and in order to do that I will need to purchase a “Breeder Combo Pack” (10 female & 5 male) but I do not know what would be the best option to go with to breed with the 20 Assorted Rili Neo Davidi Male Shrimp that I already have coming. Only options that guarantee females: — Neon Yellow (Neocaridia Davidi) — Orange Sakura (Neocaridia Davidi) — Sky Blue Velvet (Neocaridia Davidi) — Golden Back Yellow (Neocaridia Davidi) ((Other Freshwater Shrimp from AquaticArts)) I am looking to buy from AquaticArts because they have reasonable prices and I trusted shipping methods, but if anyone knows another source to purchase from that would have better options for what I am trying to do I would be grateful for that information Ive been doing my own research to see how interbreeding will turn out but is such a very in depth and situational topic, and I know if I get the wrong type of Neocaridia davidi then it would be possible that one gene is more dominate and would possibly just end up being all one color. Can I please have your opinions? Thank you
  14. Hi everyone! I was wondering what is the right way to breed different colors of Neocaridina Davidi. I saw there can be red color (Red Cherry Shrimp), Blue Velvet, Neon Yellow, Orange. Is the right way to keep each color in a separate tank? Or maybe have a separator in the tank? I guess if different colors breed the shrimplets will be mixed colors, right? Thanks a bunch and excuse me for the silly questions, I am new to Shrimp keeping/breeding! Dimos
  15. I'm curious to know if there are any other shrimp breeders with mixed Neocaridina davidi tanks which have yielded unique colors and patterns? I have been working on this for a while, and interestingly have not had shrimp revert to wild coloring, but instead have developed some interesting colors and surprising patterns in groups of offspring. Anyone else find this to be true? Thanks, @farmdee
  16. ScubaTron

    Crayfish babies

    Hi, Does anyone know how long the babies will stay attached to the female before they leave her and fend for themselves. Seems like all the babies on my female have hatched and have been stuck to her for about almost 1 week now.
  17. This is a bit of a condensed version of several articles and videos below. Just wondering if there may be any additional info that may be beneficial on this journey. I have two berried females, the first one which already hatched out a handful of zoes? (didn't find hundreds of babies... only what could maybe be counted on one hand... only fish are kuhli loaches) Grabbed them last night and transferred to saltwater, this morning the female is already berried again. (can't seem to find a molt, so a little surprised there...) Second should be hatching in about two weeks, and hopefully there will be more. ~5 weeks from berried to hatch Do not need to be fed while in freshwater (at least the first 3-4 days?) Transfer to saltwater within 8 days of hatching (no acclimation required) Zoes are attracted to light Salinity between 30 and 35 ppt (1.022 to 1.026 sg) Air stone with reduced flow Temperature 68° F to 84° F? Diet Diatoms? Phytoplankton Tetraselmis Dunalliela Salina Nannochloropsis Rotifers? (zooplankton) Isochrysis sp. Tahaitian? Liquizell Golden Pearls (5-50 Microns - larger may work) Spirulina Powder (mixed with water) Mosura Shrimpton Light on for 16-24 hrs a day Morph into adults around 3-6 weeks of age Acclimate morphed babies (post larvae form) to fresh water within a few days over a period of 3 days, changing 50% of saltwater to fresh once a day - 4th day, move to freshwater Side Note: Adults survive salinity up to 17-18 ppt (for hatching in brackish water) - Adults cannot survive full concentration of marine water, eggs will not hatch in saltwater Resources; https://gabhar.wordpress.com/2009/11/11/breeding-amano/ http://aquariuminfo.org/amanoshrimp.html http://caridina.japonica.online.fr/English/Elevage.htm http://www.caridinajaponica.de/zuchtbericht.htm (German) http://www.shrimpnow.com/content.php/129-Amano-Yamato-Shrimp-Breeding (English version of above article) http://www.shrimpnow.com/content.php/288-Caridina-Japonica-breeding Video;
  18. I was thinking about the relative merits of combining different lines of neos versus starting with a few high-quality shrimp from a good line and using them exclusively. For example, taking really good specimens from 3 different colonies of blue velvets and breeding from them versus the same number of shrimp from just the one good colony. I was wondering, what're people's experiences? I'm guessing combining lines you get more culls if you combine lines, but perhaps more durable shrimp due to less inbreeding. But I could be dead wrong.
  19. hey folks! I've been figuring out what might be the most productive cherry breeding project for a beginning like me, and I've got a few Qs to see if I'm understanding this right. I really appreciate the info in this subforum so far, especially the family trees! 1. I have some yellows of varying quality. If I'm right, the possibilities are deeper yellows (neon and sakura), yellow rilli, and green, correct? Has anyone had success getting greens? 2. Crossing colour forms that originate from different wild-type strains will tend to throw wild-type culls a lot, correct? So if I were to breed my yellows with some reds, I'd get a ton of culls and it wouldn't be very productive? 3. I quite like chocs, bloody marys, and deep blue - so would getting some chocs be a good way to explore these varieties? Thanks!!
  20. hello, i want to setup 5 tanks and my goal would be adding 1 or 2 pipe UGF into the tank! it's my first time using UGF filter, people often said i must beware of the sludge it would hinder the UGF from working properly i think i could prevent it, yeah maybe... urgh... next problem would be a shorter soil life, usually good soil would be good for 2 years, but my friend always got random death after 8 month change the soil and voila, problem solved, i need some trick for these problem, i don't know what the trick, but i don't want to setup the tank again after 8 month... i could add more soil, for stronger buffer, maybe more soil mean more life time? any idea how to use the ugf? Thanks
  21. After seeing one of breeder book shelves/rack (Customs build) I am very impressed with those tank and setup. He has 4 tanks x 3 rows, which really nice. His breeding is about 30x30x20H. I came up with ADA Style Cabinet and adding 2 breeding nano tanks. hoping to get the nano size of 30x30x20 or 30x50x20 The top tank is my current tank 60x40x40 with ADA Aquasky 601 This would be future project, and waiting for approval from the big boss.. ahhaha. Let's talk tank. Advise and idea would be great guys Thanks
  22. revolutionhope

    heat tolerant shrimps

    Greetings good folk of SKF, I'm interested to know what people's experiences are with keeping shrimps at higher than normal temperatures? My cherry cull tank had to endure temperatures between 28-35 for several days in a row this summer. All remaining berries were dropped at this time but some of them seem to be in good health still, while others have perished. There are a few batches of juvies in there at the moment and as they mature I am just curious whether the survivors were to breed again and then later generations were forced to survive the summer again and the process repeats over the course of a few years etc etc then to what degree might it be possible to breed a cherry shrimp at is "built for aussie conditions"? Keeping shrimp cool can be an expensive and/or hobby-killing exercise and in my opinion it would be a great thing for them to comfortably survive temps in the low 30s (or higher). I also know that the person i got my CRS from have told me that they had handled 28C safely at least for short periods. The ones that I got from him coped with several afternoons that reached 27 even briefly reaching 28 - and breeding didn't seem to be effected at all. Could anyone guess how much further the envelope may be pushed? love n peace will
  23. larrymull

    Breeding program - stalled

    Hi Guys, My RCS seem to have halted breeding over the last couple of months. I am not sure if this is heat related or I am just not getting them in the mood. All parameters are fine, with a TDS of around 150 (I am keeping them with CRS). I am thinking of doing a 20-30% water change on the weekend to see how that goes. Anyone have any thoughts on how to set the scene? As a side note I was in HK last week and wow it is so impressive walking around and looking at all the brilliant shrimp places, the colour and quality of the shrimp is nothing I have seen. Very impressed.
  24. hey all, i'm just hoping to get some quick feedback/advice on what is the ideal temperature to keep bee shrimp aquariums to facilitate optimum health and frequency of bonking and baby survival :-) cheers :-) love n peace will
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