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Found 6 results

  1. sdlTBfanUK

    Here we go again!

    I have now pretty much set up the shrimp tank afresh. The layout isn't 100% yet as I am testing a piece of rock for the week which I will test if it has any affect on Ph at the weekend when it has been in its tub of water for a wee? I set the heater going yesterday and as per JayC have turned it up for the cycle, and the 2 filters are running with sponges from other tanks. Most of the plants/wood are from before in the same tank. I put a small amount of Bacter AE and fish food into the tank as well today. Parameters today, TDS 213, ammonia 1, nitrite 0, nitrate 25 (these are the only tests I have done as it is just day 1 of running. As I am using RO water remineralised I don't expect I will test GH, KH, Ph at this early point but I can adjust those easy enough later down the line once cycled should they be out of sync, though they shouldn't (in theory), and adjusting the TDS is easy. I am planning to rinse the betta fish sponges in 4L of used betta water and dumping that in the shrimp tank on friday, tanks are next to each other so that will be soooo easy! That actually shouldn't affect the parameters much anyway? I will then run it as a set up tank and do 2L water change/maintenance each thursday (back to my old shedule) - tank will have about 26L of water in it (more substrate this time so 2 litres less water). If I am doing anything wrong or have missed/forgotten something I will be pleased to hear from anyone? Oh! and I will be getting at least a fixed thermometer this time, and will look into the device that JayC and KMS have recommended at some later stage when it is all up and running, though I did take a quick look and haven't seen any in the UK yet. I plan to get a strip thermometer that you stick on and it changes colour to show what the temperature is, as these are inoffensive to look at and I should be able to view them easily/often from where I normally sit and they can be stuck on the side instead of the front (which I see from my normal seat). I don't know how good/accurate they are though but it is only to indicate a problem so I don't have to go through this devastation, mine and the shrimps, again? https://www.pro-shrimp.co.uk/aquarium-thermometers/1072-jbl-digital-aquarium-thermometer-4014162614063.html?search_query=thermometer&results=44 Simon Day 2, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 25 Day 3, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 50 tds 221
  2. 3 nights ago I moved 15 shrimp from a planted 1 gallon jarrarium to a 4 gallon bent glass tank. The tank has a small PennPlax HOB which was seeded and has been up and running for about 1 month prior to transferring the shrimp. The jarrarium in which they were born only had Aquasolum substrate, Anubias, and a bunch of java moss. In the new tank I used black sand for the substrate and added a nice piece of Malaysian Driftwood along with java moss from the jarrarium. When I first put them in the tank (after drip acclimating for 1-1/2 hours) they were swimming all over checking things out, acting pretty ecstatic about their new home. This morning their behavior has become very subdued and most of the time I don't even see them (the driftwood has many openings for them to hide in). A few have already molted. All water parameters between the 2 tanks were the same with the exception of nitrate and GH/KH levels. The jarrarium always had 0 nitrates, the new tank has 10ppm. The jarrarium GH/KH were both 4, the new tank reads 5 for both the GH/KH. I'm keeping a close eye on them but don't see any signs of stress. Most are hiding in the driftwood, the others are resting very still in place. How long does it generally take for shrimp to acclimate to new surroundings? They are neocaridina davidi var. orange that were born in the jarrarium so this new environment is a huge change for them. They've gone from a vertical water column to a horizontal water column that offers major hiding capabilities. It was nice to be able to view them when they were actively swimming, now they've gone incognito on me. Google Album Photos
  3. If you are setting up a new aquarium, here is a short primer on how to set up your aquarium properly and efficiently. It may seem daunting at first, but assembling your new aquarium is easier than you think. Get all the aquarium materials ready First get all the aquarium materials ready by washing them thoroughly with warm water. Don’t use commercial soaps and detergents as they are toxic to fish. Stick to the most common and the simplest aquarium ornaments. Sift the gravel over a bucket and drain, repeating the process until you are sure that the gravel is debris-free. Fill your tank with water and set up equipment The next step in the process is to fill your tank with water. Initially fill around 30% of the tank using room temperature water. You can add the rest of the water right after the internals such as airline tubing, live or plastic plants and other ornaments are added. The air tube is an essential part of the aquarium as it helps with the oxygenation of the water. Plants are generally added to hide equipment, help with the aqua scape or simply aid in the tanks biological ecosystem. The air pump, power filter, and heater are other types of equipment that should be added. De-chlorinate You need to treat the water in the aquarium to remove chlorine, which is harmful to your biological filter and could be lethal to your fish. It is important not to overdose on de-chlorinators, as they can have an impact on water chemistry. Cycle your aquarium When an aquarium is cycled, it means that you cultivate or grow a bacteria bed in your tank, specifically in the biological filters. The filters will grow bacteria that digest ammonia which converts to nitrite, which is naturally produced and lethal to fish, shrimp, and coral. Controlling these lethal elements is done by introducing healthy nitrifying bacteria into the aquarium. Before you add fish or shrimp, an aquarium must be cycled properly. This is called the fishless cycle. If you place all your fish or shrimp inside the aquarium without the cycling process, chances are they will probably die within a few days. Cycling your aquarium takes time and it’s important not to rush it. In some cases, it has taken 6 – 8 weeks to properly cycle a tank. Adding the inhabitants Before adding your livestock, it is imperative to test the water. Specifically, the levels of ammonia and nitrite. You need to make sure that these two toxic nitrogen compounds are non-existent in the tank. Wait for two months before cleaning your new filter to allow significant growth of good nitrifying bacteria to populate. Acclimatise the livestock Acclimatising your livestock is a very important procedure because it helps your newly-acquired fish or shrimp adjust to their new habitat. Even a minor relocation can affect them because of changes in water parameters. Setting up a new aquarium takes a lot of planning and patience. Just follow the basic guidelines and the recommendations in this primer, and you will find that owning an aquarium is fulfilling and enjoyable.
  4. If you are setting up a new aquarium, here is a short primer on how to set up your aquarium properly and efficiently. It may seem daunting at first, but assembling your new aquarium is easier than you think. Get all the aquarium materials ready First get all the aquarium materials ready by washing them thoroughly with warm water. Don’t use commercial soaps and detergents as they are toxic to fish. Stick to the most common and the simplest aquarium ornaments. Sift the gravel over a bucket and drain, repeating the process until you are sure that the gravel is debris-free. Fill your tank with water and set up equipment The next step in the process is to fill your tank with water. Initially fill around 30% of the tank using room temperature water. You can add the rest of the water right after the internals such as airline tubing, live or plastic plants and other ornaments are added. The air tube is an essential part of the aquarium as it helps with the oxygenation of the water. Plants are generally added to hide equipment, help with the aqua scape or simply aid in the tanks biological ecosystem. The air pump, power filter, and heater are other types of equipment that should be added. De-chlorinate You need to treat the water in the aquarium to remove chlorine, which is harmful to your biological filter and could be lethal to your fish. It is important not to overdose on de-chlorinators, as they can have an impact on water chemistry. Cycle your aquarium When an aquarium is cycled, it means that you cultivate or grow a bacteria bed in your tank, specifically in the biological filters. The filters will grow bacteria that digest ammonia which converts to nitrite, which is naturally produced and lethal to fish, shrimp, and coral. Controlling these lethal elements is done by introducing healthy nitrifying bacteria into the aquarium. Before you add fish or shrimp, an aquarium must be cycled properly. This is called the fishless cycle. If you place all your fish or shrimp inside the aquarium without the cycling process, chances are they will probably die within a few days. Cycling your aquarium takes time and it’s important not to rush it. In some cases, it has taken 6 – 8 weeks to properly cycle a tank. Adding the inhabitants Before adding your livestock, it is imperative to test the water. Specifically, the levels of ammonia and nitrite. You need to make sure that these two toxic nitrogen compounds are non-existent in the tank. Wait for two months before cleaning your new filter to allow significant growth of good nitrifying bacteria to populate. Acclimatise the livestock Acclimatising your livestock is a very important procedure because it helps your newly-acquired fish or shrimp adjust to their new habitat. Even a minor relocation can affect them because of changes in water parameters. Setting up a new aquarium takes a lot of planning and patience. Just follow the basic guidelines and the recommendations in this primer, and you will find that owning an aquarium is fulfilling and enjoyable. View full article
  5. Hello everyone! I am going to place my order through http://www.shrimpfever.com/shop/category/shrimp/livestock-shrimp/caridina-shrimp-only/ shrimp fever today, and I wanted to get some feed back from you all about what I should get in order to eventually accomplish my goals! My main goal is to create a TiBee that is much more resilient than a regular CRS, and try and open keeping caridina shrimp up to the east coast of canada. Locally the only bred shrimp you can get are cherries, and occasionally blue velvet's. I want to cross these shrimp to make a more robust easier to keep caridina shrimp that is still striking to look at ! Tigers are larger making them a better choice for many aquarists who complain shrimp are too small to see. The white/red is always the most striking in a planted tank IMHO Here is the stock I want to order today to start with! 6 black TiBee shrimp, 6A/A+ CRS 4S/S+ CRS 8 Tigers and possibly 2 golden/snow white shrimp Alternatively if you think this would be better I can just get CRS and Tigers (in greater number as they are actually the cheapest!) The tibees are the more expensive of the lots, and the black tibees might not help me that much anyway. ( Just wanted to diversify the genes. I could also get 1 tangerine tiger or something) Going the other way I would likely get about: 15A/A+ CRS, 5S/S+ CRS 10 regular tigers Please let me know what you would order to get shrimp like the ones I am picturing eventually! My tank parameters are currently ph 6.8-6.9 and 75f. Do I need to adjust them? If so what is the best way to drop the PH? My tap water is about 7.2 so Ideally I could get them acclimated to higher ph, but if not I am willing to do RO/DI. ideally I want to make something looking like this:
  6. HashBerlin

    I hope you shrimp breed

    First time shrimp keeper, but I do plan in bedding them. I had red cherries when I was breeding guppies but they got eaten buy the guppies.. 20 gallon long Biggest sponge filter I could buy at LFS 2nd biggest air pump I could buy at LFS 50w heater 7 crystal red shrimp not the best grade but cheap
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