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  1. Today
  2. sdlTBfanUK

    New Shrimp Keeper

    Great news! The temperature of the big tank will probably be a bit too high for the shrimps but you may be alright with just the fish (I don't know about the fish you have requirements) so you can carry on at that for now. If you are certain the tank is cycled though I suppose it would be easier to reduce the temperature first then the fish can go straight from one tank to the other without having to float it in a tub to adjust him to the different temperature. Go for it, it is a big day when the occupants start going in........... Simon
  3. CurleyJones321

    New Shrimp Keeper

    ok so i did an extra 0TDS 2 liter water change on the Large 42 liter tank just to get the TDS within range of the other Small 12 liter tank and here are my readings:- Small (old) tank TDS - 239 Temp - 23C PH - 7.5 NH4 - Unreadable N03 - 1PPM N02 - 0.025PPM P04 - 0.5PPM dKH - 3 dGH - 7 Large (New) Tank TDS - 232 Temp - 28C PH - 6.5 NH4 - Unreadable N03 - 1PPM N02 - 0.025PPM P04 - 0.5PPM dKH - 1 dGH - 8 so other than PH i've gotten the tanks pretty much the same conditions. im thinking my tank is now cycled enough to take out the prawn & introduce Tyrone? oh and the tanks starting to grow algae on one of the plants im feeling the need to tackle before it gets too bad? but the plus note is the dwarf hair grass i got is already expanding.
  4. Yesterday
  5. mehunt87

    Welcome mehunt87

    Shrimp Keepers Forum welcomes mehunt87. Please feel free to browse around and get to know others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. View Member regards, skfadmin
  6. jayc

    New Shrimp Keeper

    ph dropping is part of the nitrogen cycle. That means the bacteria is doing it's thing. A water change with higher pH water is necessary now to avoid the cycle stalling. The prawn growing fur is also normal, as it is decomposing, and fungi are starting to break it down. Let the biofilm grow as that will be part of the shrimp's diet once you add some in. If it's hindering your view, scrape it off the front glass only, but don't syphon it out. The dislodged biofilm from the front glass will settle somewhere else in the tank.
  7. sdlTBfanUK

    New Shrimp Keeper

    Its good to hear that the fur growing on the shrimp is 'normal', I may leave them in until thursdays usual maintenance day then. Todays readings are as before nitrate 25, ammonia and nitrite 0! I could get someone to get me some duckweek from the lake but I remember how hard it was to get rid of it before, so am a bit reluctant to go that route, but it should bring the nitrates down a bit??? You should leave the biofilm in the tank, the shrimps will thoroughly enjoy that when they get into that tank. Simon
  8. sdlTBfanUK

    Help with dying shrimp

    As you are aiming for TDS150 and the tank is near that now at 147 you just make the new water up to near as you can TDS150 and if you keep topping up with pure RO water between changes this would be the normal routine from now. Getting a new TDS meter was the right thing to do as they are cheap enough and hopefully it will be more accurate? As someone said before, you can get a rough idea of whether the TDS reading is right by doing a GH test as using RO water and remineraliser those figures should be related. Probably best to test some mineralised water before you put it in the tank though! Good that you haven't lost any more shrimps, hopefully that continues and all should be straight forward now. Simon
  9. Assassin

    Welcome Assassin

    Shrimp Keepers Forum welcomes Assassin. Please feel free to browse around and get to know others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. View Member regards, skfadmin
  10. Thank you. Yeah they are great quality discus of German lineage. Due to family and young kids, I was not able to devote my time to them as much as I would like to so I have since sold them back to the person who sold them to me in the first place. He has been a discus breeder for many years so I know he will look after them well and keep their progeny going within Australia. Thank you. This rack is still running but I am planning to strip it all down, move it to the garage and set it all up again.
  11. supermansteve32

    Help with dying shrimp

    Okay so I haven't done a water change in weeks because I thought the TDS needed to get closer to 150 before changing and my TDS meter continually kept reading 108 to 114. Sho I went and bought a new TDS meter and it's different from my old one. The new one vs my old one: my water in tank 147 vs 103, water using the correct salty shrimp mix to RO water 88 vs 66. So I'm going with the reading on my new TDS meter. So it's time for a water change. Should I replace the water with the 88 TDS or put some more mix in until it's above 100 (since CRS parameters should be 100-200)? Thanks again everyone
  12. CurleyJones321

    New Shrimp Keeper

    i had a significant drop in PH as well, so i think thats accurate. I havent however checked my readings yet and will do that later today but i have NEVER had Amonia (NH4) readings in either of my tanks. my Prawn is also growing fur and my tank is growing a healthy layer of biofilm that i want to clean off but think is a bad idea? I think adding the items from the other tank have helped things along with regards to the Biofilm. I've just done my normal maintenance except on the large tank as the TDS kept creeping up to 265 so i did several extra water changes at 0TDS to get the tank down down to 230 and added BB.
  13. Last week
  14. Thank you both so much! I have struggled. I will change out the substrate. Thank you again!
  15. sdlTBfanUK

    New Shrimp Keeper

    I tested the tank yesterday and TDS 178, GH7, KH1, no ammonia or nitrite and nitrate 25 still (daily). I will keep doing the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate daily for now and I have got 8L (one third tank) of new water to replace on thursday, this in theory will get the TDS to about 125, GH about 5 so those should be about perfect for a start! The Ph was 5 and this makes me a bit sceptical it was the 6 I got last week! I haven't had this nitrates problem (reading) before but I am hoping that may correct itself when the plants are a bit more settled. There also hasn't been any ammonia readings yet and I think I will just remove the cooked shrimps (it's growing fur) if there isn't any reading by tuesday??? Simon
  16. sdlTBfanUK

    New Shrimp Keeper

    Good to hear you have got this sorted out! They are cheap to buy and I have one that does temperature as well, like you. Usually 'I believe' if they are inaccurate it may be that one of the prongs may be bent and so you may be able to bend the one which isn't straight to be straight but as you have a few I would just discard the one that is wrong! Simon
  17. kms

    New Shrimp Keeper

    sorry for the late reply.and the hijack apparently my zero water TDS meter is about 40-80 ppm out, my other two, gree and mi.com is only 0-6 ppm differences, I will have another gree TDS coming in, so I will check again. The reason I got so many TDS meter, as I was going through taobao, I seen all the TDS meter really cheap, about USD 3.50, so I got a few, now my friends also want one, and the gree TDS meter also has temperature.
  18. sdlTBfanUK

    fluorite gravel and affecting water parameters

    As JayC states, that may not be suitable substrate for shrimp so you should probably consider changing it for a different substrate. The Ph of 7.5 is fine as cherry shrimp are suited to that and under normal circumstances salty shrimp Gh/Kh+ is the one to use with cherry shrimp, but the combination of the substrate and the salty shrimp is compounding the parameters to go so high. The increase in the TDS during the week may be part down to evaporation as you should top up evaporation with RO non-mineralised water. Both your sets of TDS numbers though should be ok with cherry shrimp! In the meantime I would try not using the GH/KH+ which should help bring your parameters down a bit more towards the requirements of the shrimp (though the GH/KH+ has all the ingredients that shrimp need obviously?). You will want to slowly reduce the figures anyway even if you change the substrate so that the parameters are closer together You may want to watch this video as it is very informative and may help you decide on where to go from here???? https://skfaquatics.com/forum/forums/topic/14161-basics-for-shrimp-keeping-video/ You should be ok using distilled water but I would do the full set of tests on some to start with just to double check, in theory it should be 0 TDS/GH/KH etc as I am sure you know? The choice of substrate is dependant on what you are hoping to keep in the tank, soil substrate if you are keeping lots of plants (though that in itself will alter some parameters), but you can use an inert substrate with cherry shrimps as they don't need the buffering effect of the soils as bee shrimps do! My cherry shrimp live in dechlorinated tap water, but as he states in the video RO water remineralised is better as it has everything in it the shrimp require? Simon
  19. That's due to the salty shrimp GH/KH+ which is doing what it is supposed to. If you don't want pH to rise you need to use Salty Shrimp GH+. That fluorite substrate needs to go. Depending on which version of Fluorite you bought, the red or black version, flourite has iron, potassium and magnesium and high levels of calcium and sodium present.
  20. I have a ten gallon aquarium with bloody mary shrimp. I have been using fluorite gravel and it keeps pushing up my GH and KH. I am now changing 20% of my water every week in order to try and slowly adjust it. My GH had been 15 and my KH about 10. I now have it down to GH of 14 and a KH of about 7. I have researched this on other sites and it seems that the Fluorite gravel will gradually stop leaching calcium. I have also been reading that a KH of 8 and above can cause problems with neocardina secondary to their shells getting too hard and the resultant white circle of death. My TDS can run anywhere from 230 or 240 after a water change up to 280 to 290 at the end of the week. Ph is 7.5 and above. I am no longer adding any supplements to the water. One more question. I am using salty shrimp GH/KH premium aiming for a TDS of 100 after off gassing as the water I change with. I am adding it slowly over 6 hours. The distilled water has a ph of about 6.4 before I add the salty shrimp. After I add the salty shrimp to a TDS of about 100 my ph increases to about 7.5. Suggestions?
  21. Those are some healthy discus, I used to breed them about 18 years ago, I had ultra high body and high fin, but those a really rare these days if you are after some good quality ones.
  22. Andrea Eliasdottir

    Fish and Shrimp Rack Build - First Attempt

    I just got onto this forum as I'm just looking to start keeping Cherries... You have just blown my brain! Just... WoW. o.O
  23. Andrea Eliasdottir

    Welcome Andrea Eliasdottir

    Shrimp Keepers Forum welcomes Andrea Eliasdottir. Please feel free to browse around and get to know others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. View Member regards, skfadmin
  24. beanbag

    Here we go again!

    Until 1-2ppm ammonia
  25. Milez803

    Welcome Milez803

    Shrimp Keepers Forum welcomes Milez803. Please feel free to browse around and get to know others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. View Member regards, skfadmin
  26. sdlTBfanUK

    New Shrimp Keeper

    BANG goes that theory then, d'oh! Are 2 of them close if so I would discard the one which is different. Other options would be to get some water tested by an aquarium shop and see which are nearest and discard the other(s). I have also come across this with other tests such as droplet tests from different companies so would do as CurleyJones says, and I now do, pick one and stick with that one (at least you should get a consistent), only problem with this is working out which is most accurate to stick to using. With 3 there must be 2 which are closer than one so I would assume the third is best thrown out, or as I say, take them all to an aquarium shop and get the shop to test one of their tanks and then you use yours to see which is the nearest? I always swoosh mine in the tank about 10 times in case there is some unwanted contaminant on the prongs, rather than just dip it in the tank. Simon
  27. kms

    New Shrimp Keeper

    The all read 0 ppm with RO water, but when used in the tank, that's when the figures change, how would you check which one is correct.
  28. sdlTBfanUK

    New Shrimp Keeper

    Dragon stone is beautiful and I am sure it will look fab in the new tank. I am not using any rock/stone after last time causing the PH rise, playing it safe this time! I saw it on ProShrimp I think, and looks great. Thanks for the offer though, and hopefully you can attach a picture of your new tank at some point. I have done my water change and it has got the TDS to about where I am aiming for so it was worth the work and I can now sit back and wait to see if any 'cycle' happens, that's what I have to tell myself anyway!!!! I shall do the full set of tests at/by the weekend and just do the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate tests daily. Simon
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