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  1. Yesterday
  2. That's due to the salty shrimp GH/KH+ which is doing what it is supposed to. If you don't want pH to rise you need to use Salty Shrimp GH+. That fluorite substrate needs to go. Depending on which version of Fluorite you bought, the red or black version, flourite has iron, potassium and magnesium and high levels of calcium and sodium present.
  3. I have a ten gallon aquarium with bloody mary shrimp. I have been using fluorite gravel and it keeps pushing up my GH and KH. I am now changing 20% of my water every week in order to try and slowly adjust it. My GH had been 15 and my KH about 10. I now have it down to GH of 14 and a KH of about 7. I have researched this on other sites and it seems that the Fluorite gravel will gradually stop leaching calcium. I have also been reading that a KH of 8 and above can cause problems with neocardina secondary to their shells getting too hard and the resultant white circle of death. My TDS can run anywhere from 230 or 240 after a water change up to 280 to 290 at the end of the week. Ph is 7.5 and above. I am no longer adding any supplements to the water. One more question. I am using salty shrimp GH/KH premium aiming for a TDS of 100 after off gassing as the water I change with. I am adding it slowly over 6 hours. The distilled water has a ph of about 6.4 before I add the salty shrimp. After I add the salty shrimp to a TDS of about 100 my ph increases to about 7.5. Suggestions?
  4. Those are some healthy discus, I used to breed them about 18 years ago, I had ultra high body and high fin, but those a really rare these days if you are after some good quality ones.
  5. Last week
  6. Andrea Eliasdottir

    Fish and Shrimp Rack Build - First Attempt

    I just got onto this forum as I'm just looking to start keeping Cherries... You have just blown my brain! Just... WoW. o.O
  7. Andrea Eliasdottir

    Welcome Andrea Eliasdottir

    Shrimp Keepers Forum welcomes Andrea Eliasdottir. Please feel free to browse around and get to know others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. View Member regards, skfadmin
  8. beanbag

    Here we go again!

    Until 1-2ppm ammonia
  9. Milez803

    Welcome Milez803

    Shrimp Keepers Forum welcomes Milez803. Please feel free to browse around and get to know others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. View Member regards, skfadmin
  10. sdlTBfanUK

    New Shrimp Keeper

    BANG goes that theory then, d'oh! Are 2 of them close if so I would discard the one which is different. Other options would be to get some water tested by an aquarium shop and see which are nearest and discard the other(s). I have also come across this with other tests such as droplet tests from different companies so would do as CurleyJones says, and I now do, pick one and stick with that one (at least you should get a consistent), only problem with this is working out which is most accurate to stick to using. With 3 there must be 2 which are closer than one so I would assume the third is best thrown out, or as I say, take them all to an aquarium shop and get the shop to test one of their tanks and then you use yours to see which is the nearest? I always swoosh mine in the tank about 10 times in case there is some unwanted contaminant on the prongs, rather than just dip it in the tank. Simon
  11. kms

    New Shrimp Keeper

    The all read 0 ppm with RO water, but when used in the tank, that's when the figures change, how would you check which one is correct.
  12. sdlTBfanUK

    New Shrimp Keeper

    Dragon stone is beautiful and I am sure it will look fab in the new tank. I am not using any rock/stone after last time causing the PH rise, playing it safe this time! I saw it on ProShrimp I think, and looks great. Thanks for the offer though, and hopefully you can attach a picture of your new tank at some point. I have done my water change and it has got the TDS to about where I am aiming for so it was worth the work and I can now sit back and wait to see if any 'cycle' happens, that's what I have to tell myself anyway!!!! I shall do the full set of tests at/by the weekend and just do the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate tests daily. Simon
  13. jayc

    Here we go again!

    Until you start getting Ammonia readings.
  14. CurleyJones321

    New Shrimp Keeper

    i use 2 TDS pens and I have noticed a difference of about 20TDS but they both read 0 on RO water. I just pick my favorite and stick with that, as long as your using the same one every time you will get fairly consistent results. i think the TDS is a combination of me adding friendly BB and evaporation i have tested it an BB im using adds about 15TDS. ive done a water change on the large tank because thats what ive been told to do and im going to do my regular maintenance this weekend and obviously add the old water to the new tank. then test everything again on Sunday. also, if you want something good for your shrimps in your tank that's fairly cheep, look up dragon stone, i just had some arrive and am currently in the process of soaking it to cleaning it. i can upload a picture of the stuff i've got if you like? another Ebay Bargain!
  15. sdlTBfanUK

    New Shrimp Keeper

    I would get some pure RO water and try them all, any that have a reading of more than a couple can then be thrown away as you don't need 3, especially if some are wrong. I have 2 (1 came with the zerowater) and they are only a few apart but I always just use the one until that breaks. Simon
  16. sdlTBfanUK

    Here we go again!

    Thanks for the thoughts. I don't think I have any just ammonia products but will take a look next time I am in the kitchen. I am not really a fan of using chemicals as a rule but I will take a look and go from there. I suspect that you and JayC are correct with the low PH slowing down the cycle. I have even read a couple of times over the many years that it is possible the tank won't cycle if the Ph is too low but I don't know about that? Hopefully the cooked shrimps will cause some ammonia and if they do I will swap a sponge with one from the old tank and I may then get a 'cycle' as well documented everywhere, though as yet it is a mythical beast to me, with all 9-10 tanks I have set up over the years not once seen? I'm not over worried at this point as whatever the tanks do has never yet caused a problem as the photos in the gallery show but I will only buy a few cheapish shrimps to start off, when the time comes. I have changed a third of the water this morning with pure water and that has got the TDS to 160 (exactly where I kept it before but may reduce it a bit further this time). The full set of tests I will do tomorrow/weekend! The ammonia/nitrite/nitrate tests I will do daily, as up to this point to see if anything changes. I plan to clean the betta sponge in the new setup tomorrow when I do that one. Do you know how long I should leave the cooked prawns in the tank for the cycle process as I have never done this method before? Any and All advice is greatly appreciated. Simon
  17. beanbag

    Here we go again!

    When I cycle a tank, I find a more controlled way to add ammonia on purpose. For example, Dr Tim's ammonium chloride, or ammonia household cleaner with no added surfactants. What could be significantly slowing down the cycle is the low pH. To check that you have bacterial cycling, u need to add a purposeful amount of ammonia and watch it get converted over into nitrates.
  18. sdlTBfanUK

    New Shrimp Keeper

    Sounds like we both have busy days ahead with our tanks. I am expecting that is ALL I will do today but at least it is a cool and damp day! Lights on and heater on in the house, anyone would think it is autumn here............. I don't think any of my tanks have ever gotten as low as PH4, thats quite a drop? Do you know whether the TDS increase is down to evaporation or do you think it is the soil substrate? I added 2 cooked prawns to my tank yesterday so we will see if that makes any difference, no ammonia reading yet but we will see, a snail is eating away on one of them! If you think the sponge may dry out whilst you are changing water or something you can always take it out of the back section and put it horizontally in the main tank to keep it wet as you don't have any critters in there yet? During normal water changes I think it should be safe to keep it in situ at the back as it will still stay damp. One of my original neons (very old now) has started to get twitchy and lose the colour in the red of his tail so he is near the end. I tried yesterday to catch him so I could put him in the shrimp tank but he obviously isn't that bad yet as he is too quick for me to catch? I am planning to change one third of the water with pure RO water today and that should bring the parameters to almost ideal TDS and GH, all the others are ok already. I managed to get the 8L of filtered water into a bucket over the previous 2 days ready! 32 baby shrimps already, you must be doing everything right (and very pleased), hopefully they can go into the new tank soon. I would transfer the fish into it first though as they are less sensitive. Hope you get it all done today, and enjoy doing it but don't over do it. Also hope you are happy with the new tank and setup? I will be happy when I have done mine as that is definitely the worst of it over, no more BIG work from that point................just patience! Simon
  19. Shocks

    Welcome Shocks

    Shrimp Keepers Forum welcomes Shocks. Please feel free to browse around and get to know others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. View Member regards, skfadmin
  20. CurleyJones321

    New Shrimp Keeper

    Ok so its been a few days and ive checked my readings after adding bottled BB (the same brand of bottled BB I've ever used so i shouldn't have any problems with bacteria clash?). I removed about half a liter of water but that's really the limit to keep the spounge in the filter covered in water. ive checked my readings:- Small (old) tank TDS - 233 Temp - 22C PH - 7.5 NH4 - Unreadable N03 - 1PPM N02 - 0.05PPM P04 - 0.5PPM dKH - 3 dGH - 6 Large (New) Tank TDS - 244 Temp - 28C PH - 4 NH4 - Unreadable N03 - 1PPM N02 - 0.2PPM P04 - 1PPM dKH - 1 dGH - 7 so yeah the Small tank seems to have almost gotten over 'new tank syndrome' even with its constant population. the shrimp are still breeding and im constantly counting lots of shrimp but now the first batch of shrimp are approaching adult hood its going to start getting difficult to properly count, so i can only give you right now's reading as a last reading of 5 adults and 32 shrimplets of various sizes. Large Tank wise im glad i didnt add Tyrone as he would be having a very hard time with the acidity. i assume that means the first step in the cycling process of my tank is done. @jayc 'Give this a few weeks, and once you see pH drop below 7.0, do a water change with dechlorinated tap water and add a pinch of flake food (or that prawn). This should bring the pH up again, and adds more ammonia food for the BB. Keep testing ammonia, nitrite and nitrates during the course of cycling. When you see ammonia and nitrate at zero with high nitrates, your tank is cycled. At this point you drain the tank of 99% water (making sure the filter media stays wet) and add your RO water remineralised to the required TDS levels. Use this time before adding livestock to adjust pH, GH, KH and TDS.' im off to check the fridge and prepare some water.
  21. sdlTBfanUK

    Here we go again!

    I found the frozen prawns so have added them. I added the sponge from the main old tank when I set it up a couple of weeks ago! I have 2 in each tank so I could swap one between tanks in case, as you say, all the good bacteria have just died as there was no ammonia source to keep them alive? There are 3 snails and plants dying in the tank as well so I don't know whether they would produce enough ammonia to have kept the bacteria going. How long should I leave the cooked prawns in the tank, is it just until I get an ammonia reading? I won't be rushing out and buying lots of expensive shrimps until I have tested it for a month with maybe about 6 cheapies. I did use a fish before so I don't know whether that makes a difference, and he was fine afterwards and went back in the fish tank but I have NEVER had an ammonia or nitrate reading from any of my tanks. Maybe they don't cycle with the constant low PH? Anyway, I appreciate your help. Simon
  22. jayc

    Here we go again!

    Maybe if you use an old filter media, like sponge or floss in the new tank's filter ... you can add one fish or shrimp into the tank and slowly build up the population over a couple of weeks. That might work.
  23. sdlTBfanUK

    Here we go again!

    Thanks for that JayC, I have added a bit of fish food a few times (crustagran), maybe not enough so I may do a bit more, or actually I did have a prawn in the freezer (which I forgot to add) so I will see if I can find that and put that in, thanks for the reminder. I definitely think your cycling regime is the way to go and would always recommend that, but it involves too much work and lugging water for me unfortunately and although friends say they will come and give a hand I don't like to bother them with anything unless I really have too and this sort of thing isn't one of those to me. I will carry on as is for now, it has worked this way every other tank and as you say maybe it doesn't cycle this way and as the PH is always low (new added water is also low of 5.5) maybe that is why it works (or did last time)? I have a really old neon (last one of the original group) which has started twitching and losing colour in the red tail area over the last week and I would usually euthenize it but if I can catch it I may put that in the tank as it hasn't got long left anyway. Trouble is he/she isn't daft and as soon as the net goes in he/she scarpers, so I guess he can't be too bad yet. I will look for that frozen shrimp first I think? I appreciate the help and advice. Simon
  24. jayc

    Here we go again!

    Have you added any thing that will produce ammonia, like fish food? My tap water has some ammonia in it. That's why I recommend using tap water (treated) for cycling. If you KNOW you are adding ammonia, and it tests result in zero, that means the tank is processing ammonia into nitrites and nitrates. If you don't add ammonia, of course it's going to read zero. If you add bacteria from a sponge from another tank, into a tank that has no ammonia, the bacteria will starve and the tank still won;t be cycled.
  25. jayc

    Red Cherry shrimp?

    You don't need to separate them. It's not a disease.
  26. sdlTBfanUK

    Here we go again!

    I have been preparing some water ready to do a one third water change tomorrow, that in THEORY will get the water TDS 160 and GH 6 by using pure RO water and at least the water can just carefully be poured into the tank as there are only 3 snails in there. The nitrates seem to be sitting at 25 so this is hopefully something that this may also help with reducing? I still haven't had any ammonia or nitrate readings. I will probably squeeze the betta sponge in the tank on friday when I do that tank as it is next to it. Then I will do all the tests at the weekend! Hopefully it is nearly there but I am not in any rush as I haven't got any shrimps yet anyway! Simon
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