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    • daveron
      By daveron
      I have an issue with my old tank, which is around 3 years right now and the issue is NO3.
      Currently I am forced to do 25-30% water changes twice a week, and this is just enough to keep the NO3 below 10 (which is still way to high!). I have no idea what is causing the NO3 to raise so quickly as there is just around 50 shrimp and nothing more.
      The tank is 30L (8 gal), inert substrate, heavily planted, I add no fertilizers.
      Plants are duckweed, anubias, cryptocoryne, and eleocharis parvula carpet.
      Two HOB filters - one is sponge, the other one is small sponge + peat + JBL nitratex + seachem matrix (I added two weeks ago, as this thing is supposed to bring down nitrates, but so far no results).
      For water changes I use salty shrimp GH +, Azoo Triple Black Water, Azoo Mineral Plus(every second week) and Azoo Ph Down, to adjust the pH of the water that goes into the tank with what's already there.
      As for bacteria I add seachem pristine, and seachem stability once a week around 2ml of each.
      Feeding is once per 2-3 days, small amounts that gets eaten in a few hours.
      So I had that issue already around 5 months back and what I did is bought the JBL bionitratex and added duckweed, and it did solved the problem but to get a good result I had to use two bags of the JBL product for a single tank (the product comes with 4 bags total). Now this thing is quiet expensive imo for the time it lasts, so I would like to ask for any other options to keep the NO3 in check, as the plants are clearly not able to handle that.
      From my observations - there is a substantial amount of muck in the substrate, but since the tank is heavily planted I cannot vacuum it.
      If needed I can provide some pictures of the tank.
      Your help greatly appreciated !
    • revolutionhope
      By revolutionhope
      Hey SKF,
      I've recently started adding 2ppm of nitrates to my weekly/fortnightly waterchanges as my tank constantly had zero nitrates and my plants were looking hungry. The product I use is cal aqua labs green.
      I'd like to know what people's experiences or opinions are on whether small amounts of fertiliser can be added to shrimp tanks WITHOUT dripping it in slowly (as in a typical waterchange which is what I'm currently doing)
      In other words; if I directly dose the 1 or 2 ppm worth of nitrates to my aquarium without slowly dripping it into the tank would it have any negative impact on the health and/or breeding of crystal or tiger shrimps?
      love n peace
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    • sdlTBfanUK
      I haven't had a problem using the chi ebi WHEN I had baby shrimps but not got back to that stage yet (I am still using it a bit even with no  babbies) as we are approaching the end of winter! I'm not sure how you get clumps of it if it's a powder, I use a tooth pick (or similar) dipped about 5mm into tank water, quickly dip it into the powder, knock excess off and then swirl it round the tank. Now I do have assassin snails in the tanks as well so they may get any bits that the shrimp don't! I haven't used the glasgarten myself, though I had it on my 'to try' list, but as long as you don't use too much! It is more difficult though the larger the tank, as the shrimplets need to find the food and don't move far when very young. I wanted to try bee pollen but haven't yet got back to that point yet and I haven't found it easy to get here? I would imagine the spiulina would be fine, I use that to feed daphnia when I have them, but again I use the same way of adding it to the tank. There may be no need for additional food though if you have plenty of biofilm as that must be what they naturally eat so lots of leaves are a good platform for that and you are already using the bacter ae! Simon
    • DreamBlueVelvet
      Haha thanks, I actually do it as a hobby so I have some pretty expensive equipment. Yes, that’s what I was thinking, maybe because it’s pink that it’s so noticeable
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Wow, you should be a professional photographer??? That all looks good to me and is the hair I mentioned, maybe they sieve stuff through those hairs? Simon
    • DreamBlueVelvet
      One of my males eating a fish food flake, the furry under the nose is the same color as the flake And a female
    • beanbag
      Is there such a thing as a powdered food that you can spread all over the tank, but also won't go bad if it falls into a crack or below the substrate? For example, the Glas Garten Shrimp Baby food, which is high in protein, does go bad and pollute the water.  (I think I killed off a bunch of shrimp due to uneaten pieces of it sitting around).  I also did a test where I just put it along with some tank water in a test tube and it went stinky and moldy within a few days. Bacter AE seems to be ok, since the clumps are bacteria that go live. Probably dried mulberry pellets should also be ok, since it should be safe to have plant matter decay? How about bee pollen?  Or maybe the algae powders like Spirulina or chlorella?
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