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    • daveron
      By daveron
      I have an issue with my old tank, which is around 3 years right now and the issue is NO3.
      Currently I am forced to do 25-30% water changes twice a week, and this is just enough to keep the NO3 below 10 (which is still way to high!). I have no idea what is causing the NO3 to raise so quickly as there is just around 50 shrimp and nothing more.
      The tank is 30L (8 gal), inert substrate, heavily planted, I add no fertilizers.
      Plants are duckweed, anubias, cryptocoryne, and eleocharis parvula carpet.
      Two HOB filters - one is sponge, the other one is small sponge + peat + JBL nitratex + seachem matrix (I added two weeks ago, as this thing is supposed to bring down nitrates, but so far no results).
      For water changes I use salty shrimp GH +, Azoo Triple Black Water, Azoo Mineral Plus(every second week) and Azoo Ph Down, to adjust the pH of the water that goes into the tank with what's already there.
      As for bacteria I add seachem pristine, and seachem stability once a week around 2ml of each.
      Feeding is once per 2-3 days, small amounts that gets eaten in a few hours.
      So I had that issue already around 5 months back and what I did is bought the JBL bionitratex and added duckweed, and it did solved the problem but to get a good result I had to use two bags of the JBL product for a single tank (the product comes with 4 bags total). Now this thing is quiet expensive imo for the time it lasts, so I would like to ask for any other options to keep the NO3 in check, as the plants are clearly not able to handle that.
      From my observations - there is a substantial amount of muck in the substrate, but since the tank is heavily planted I cannot vacuum it.
      If needed I can provide some pictures of the tank.
      Your help greatly appreciated !
    • revolutionhope
      By revolutionhope
      Hey SKF,
      I've recently started adding 2ppm of nitrates to my weekly/fortnightly waterchanges as my tank constantly had zero nitrates and my plants were looking hungry. The product I use is cal aqua labs green.
      I'd like to know what people's experiences or opinions are on whether small amounts of fertiliser can be added to shrimp tanks WITHOUT dripping it in slowly (as in a typical waterchange which is what I'm currently doing)
      In other words; if I directly dose the 1 or 2 ppm worth of nitrates to my aquarium without slowly dripping it into the tank would it have any negative impact on the health and/or breeding of crystal or tiger shrimps?
      love n peace
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    • Steensj2004
      Side question, can I get away with this micro HOB? It has predicted sponges, abs I really want something to polish the water a bit more https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13099-Filter/dp/B072KL1NDY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=azoo+mignon+filter+60&qid=1573604390&sprefix=azoo+&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExR1dYU0xYVkVKU0E2JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTc5NDMwM09ETkw2WEFJM0czNCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDYxMzIyMTNCUVo1TExGWFgzRCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl    
    • Steensj2004
      Not as much as the adults, but, I tend to see them when the father in the feeding area. If the adults are out, they seem to be in the same area. I counted 5 last night
    • jayc
      You mean your babies are now roaming around?
    • jayc
      LOL, did you have bioflim on yer fingers?  
    • jayc
      @Sonnycbr, Instead of blindly doing water changes, you should test your pH in the cycling tank. If it drops below 6.8, than do a water change to bring it back up above 7.0. How much you change can depend on how it new water it takes to bring it back above 7.0 pH. Some times, people don't know why they change water during the cycling process. They might say "Oh it is to reduce the ammonia levels". But ammonia is what feeds the bacteria. Aren't we trying to build up the beneficial bacteria? Than why are people (even on youtube) throwing out the very thing that is needed for the bacteria to colonise? The ammonia.  The real reason we change water during a cycle is because the bacteria growth/activity slows when pH drops below 6-ish. It is at it's optimum above 7.0. The new water which should ideally be above pH 7.0 (tap water usually is), will bring the ph of the whole tank back up. In addition, the new water should hopefully also contain more ammonia, food source, for the bacteria. (De-chlorinate the tap water if you use it!!) In a tank that has been cycling for a while, the bacteria that starts breaking down ammonia will eventually remove all the ammonia, it's food source will be gone. If you don't have another source of ammonia (eg, livestock waste, degrading food, externally added ammonia) ... the newly established bacteria will start to starve. More ammonia needs to be added somehow. The pH in a tank will naturally drop during the cycling period. The breakdown of ammonia NH3 by the bacteria leaves behind more hydrogen H. The N (Nitrogen) is removed from NH3, leaving H3. That is, more Hydrogen is left behind. The pH scale is logarithmic and inversely indicates the concentration of hydrogen ions in the water (a lower pH indicates a higher concentration of hydrogen ions). So the water change does two things, raises the pH and adds more ammonia, not take away ammonia.  If you use RO water to cycle a tank ... RO water is devoid of a food source (ammonia) and is naturally low in pH. Is this a good type of water for tank cycling? So now that you are armed with this information, you are now officially more knowledgeable than that youtuber you watched. Go forth and change water in a cycling tank only when needed. 50% twice a week could be the right amount for that other person, but it might not be right for you.
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