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    • daveron
      By daveron
      Hi
      I have an issue with my old tank, which is around 3 years right now and the issue is NO3.
      Currently I am forced to do 25-30% water changes twice a week, and this is just enough to keep the NO3 below 10 (which is still way to high!). I have no idea what is causing the NO3 to raise so quickly as there is just around 50 shrimp and nothing more.
      The tank is 30L (8 gal), inert substrate, heavily planted, I add no fertilizers.
      Plants are duckweed, anubias, cryptocoryne, and eleocharis parvula carpet.
      Two HOB filters - one is sponge, the other one is small sponge + peat + JBL nitratex + seachem matrix (I added two weeks ago, as this thing is supposed to bring down nitrates, but so far no results).
      For water changes I use salty shrimp GH +, Azoo Triple Black Water, Azoo Mineral Plus(every second week) and Azoo Ph Down, to adjust the pH of the water that goes into the tank with what's already there.
      As for bacteria I add seachem pristine, and seachem stability once a week around 2ml of each.
      Feeding is once per 2-3 days, small amounts that gets eaten in a few hours.
      So I had that issue already around 5 months back and what I did is bought the JBL bionitratex and added duckweed, and it did solved the problem but to get a good result I had to use two bags of the JBL product for a single tank (the product comes with 4 bags total). Now this thing is quiet expensive imo for the time it lasts, so I would like to ask for any other options to keep the NO3 in check, as the plants are clearly not able to handle that.
      From my observations - there is a substantial amount of muck in the substrate, but since the tank is heavily planted I cannot vacuum it.
      If needed I can provide some pictures of the tank.
      Your help greatly appreciated !
    • revolutionhope
      By revolutionhope
      Hey SKF,
      I've recently started adding 2ppm of nitrates to my weekly/fortnightly waterchanges as my tank constantly had zero nitrates and my plants were looking hungry. The product I use is cal aqua labs green.
      I'd like to know what people's experiences or opinions are on whether small amounts of fertiliser can be added to shrimp tanks WITHOUT dripping it in slowly (as in a typical waterchange which is what I'm currently doing)
      In other words; if I directly dose the 1 or 2 ppm worth of nitrates to my aquarium without slowly dripping it into the tank would it have any negative impact on the health and/or breeding of crystal or tiger shrimps?
      love n peace
      will


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    • sdlTBfanUK
      That all sounds terrific and we love to hear a success story! It is always exciting when you start getting baby shrimps, something I am hoping for but may have a long wait as it is wintery here??? Remember to drip acclimate the new crystals when you get them. It will look more interesting having the two colours together. Simon
    • Steensj2004
      Update.   Manual removal has stopped, seems to be under control. Light has been lowered on day cycle to try to combat over lighting. Baby shrimp are showing up more frequently now as I gander around the tank . I’ve received the lid kit and will be assembling that and doing a water change tonight.   In other news, I’ve ordered some Black and red crystals to bolster population of reds, and add some blacks. The fish are for a friend’s tank( we like to combine orders to save a few dollars). He offered me half of the emeralds, but I think I’ll steer clear anyway, I’m sure they would eat baby shrimps, even as small as they are. Maybe I’ll take him up on the offer once my colony is booming, as he’s putting them in a designated breeding tank.  
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Hope it all works as you want it too so you can get everything settled with the tanks at last so that you can build your collection! Simon 
    • kms
      I've just received my Hailea HC130A today, I can  confirm the HC130a does have a PC type ball bearing fan shown below. I have also put a external temperature probe, only took less than a minute to do, it is connected with a SM2.54 connector which is readly available, the probe house the male side of the socket. there are two notch at the front bottom of the chiller that you can lead the probe cable out of the chiller, so no drilling of any sort needs to be done.   My unit was a little scratched at one side and near the panel, the scratch was expected for product coming from china, the radiator fins at some part was a little pushed in and bent, but I put then right so all is good. The chiller came with 4 hose connector, but are all same size, I think it should come with two size, but i'm alright with that.   I haven't full tested it yet as the chiller was sent to my work place, apparently the water pump I had at work was too weak to move the water, so I have to test it at home, the probe is working fine.   Thanks JayC and sdlTBfanUK  for all your advice.  
    • jayc
      This is where the TDS meter will come in handy and make things easy. (And part of the reason we recommend shrimp keepers get one). With a TDS meter you just add enough of the dissolved mix into the tank (or water change) until it reaches 150TDS as measured with the TDS meter. Without a TDS meter, just follow the instructions and dosage below: Instructions of use Mix with water outside of the aquarium. Shrimp Mineral dissolves almost completely within seconds, and the water is ready for use at once. Please make sure that any undissolved particles go into your tank, too. Close container after every use at once as this mineral salt absorbs moisture. Dosage Use Shrimp Mineral to re-mineralise RO water, rainwater, fully desalinated water etc. to reach a total hardness of about 6 GH and/or a conductance of about 300 +/- 50 uS (Microsiemens). For this purpose, an evenly full measuring spoon (about 2 g) to 10 litres (2.2Gallon) of water is sufficient. While not as accurate without a TDS meter, it will get close. You can always adjust the TDS reading after you get your TDS meter.   Weekly water changes of 10% as per normal, with the new water adjusted to 150 TDS with SS GH/KH+. If it is particularly hot and you notice the water level of the tank dropping, you top off with pure RO or Distilled water, no remineralising needed. In summary, Water Change = Add SS GH/KH+. Top Off = straight distilled.  
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