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    • daveron
      By daveron
      Hi
      I have an issue with my old tank, which is around 3 years right now and the issue is NO3.
      Currently I am forced to do 25-30% water changes twice a week, and this is just enough to keep the NO3 below 10 (which is still way to high!). I have no idea what is causing the NO3 to raise so quickly as there is just around 50 shrimp and nothing more.
      The tank is 30L (8 gal), inert substrate, heavily planted, I add no fertilizers.
      Plants are duckweed, anubias, cryptocoryne, and eleocharis parvula carpet.
      Two HOB filters - one is sponge, the other one is small sponge + peat + JBL nitratex + seachem matrix (I added two weeks ago, as this thing is supposed to bring down nitrates, but so far no results).
      For water changes I use salty shrimp GH +, Azoo Triple Black Water, Azoo Mineral Plus(every second week) and Azoo Ph Down, to adjust the pH of the water that goes into the tank with what's already there.
      As for bacteria I add seachem pristine, and seachem stability once a week around 2ml of each.
      Feeding is once per 2-3 days, small amounts that gets eaten in a few hours.
      So I had that issue already around 5 months back and what I did is bought the JBL bionitratex and added duckweed, and it did solved the problem but to get a good result I had to use two bags of the JBL product for a single tank (the product comes with 4 bags total). Now this thing is quiet expensive imo for the time it lasts, so I would like to ask for any other options to keep the NO3 in check, as the plants are clearly not able to handle that.
      From my observations - there is a substantial amount of muck in the substrate, but since the tank is heavily planted I cannot vacuum it.
      If needed I can provide some pictures of the tank.
      Your help greatly appreciated !
    • revolutionhope
      By revolutionhope
      Hey SKF,
      I've recently started adding 2ppm of nitrates to my weekly/fortnightly waterchanges as my tank constantly had zero nitrates and my plants were looking hungry. The product I use is cal aqua labs green.
      I'd like to know what people's experiences or opinions are on whether small amounts of fertiliser can be added to shrimp tanks WITHOUT dripping it in slowly (as in a typical waterchange which is what I'm currently doing)
      In other words; if I directly dose the 1 or 2 ppm worth of nitrates to my aquarium without slowly dripping it into the tank would it have any negative impact on the health and/or breeding of crystal or tiger shrimps?
      love n peace
      will


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  • Posts

    • kms
      Mine is a DIY Chiller, as you know a peltier has a hot side and cold side, for the cold side to stay cold, the hot side must be kept cold and with a heatsink and fan to cool it down. My DIY chiller has two sides and two water block. blue aluminum block with tube leading to the outlet of the canister filter and back to the tank to chill the tank water. copper block is to cool the hot side of the peltier, with copper block to the radiator/fan and a water pump looping. The problem is the tube from the water pump came off, apparently the plastic from the pump started to melt and the tube came off and the looping side had no water, so the copper water block stayed hot all the time with heat transferred to the cold side of the peltier also heating the water. since the copper takes time to cool down, most of the heat and the room hot temp had already heat the tank water to about 45 C.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Try testing it again and see what you get or to confirm that the previous were right, especially the higher Ph reading is all I can recommend! If there is some explanation for the difference hopefully someone will reply and let you know, but I expect there won't actually be a difference if you do it again? Simon
    • jayc
      No that's not normal. But I don't know which tube in your loop had come off. Can you show us?   Yes that would have helped a bit, and at least give KMS more time to have found the issue by turning off the chiller. As I understand, kms has a peltier style chiller, and a tube of the pump had come off, which meant that hot water from the hot side of the peltier flowed back into the tank. So if the chiller was on the same temp controller, it would have turned off the chiller at around 26degC. The tank might have got warmer in his room, but it would have been at a much slower rate, and certainly would not have reached 45degC.
    • kvinnyy
      I'm using the API master test kit with the dropper bottles. I was just very confused at how much more akaline the water was coming out of the filter compared to the water out in the open. I can't imagine how this fluctuating change in pH is going to be beneficial for my crs.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      What type of test are you doing strip or drip? I use drip tests and always ignore the first attempt as no matter how well I clean and keep the test set it is often way out of line. Las time first test was Ph8, second test Ph6. Sometimes first attempt looks ok so I have no idea what is going on????? If you just tried once it may be worth testing again? Simon
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