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    • daveron
      By daveron
      Hi
      I have an issue with my old tank, which is around 3 years right now and the issue is NO3.
      Currently I am forced to do 25-30% water changes twice a week, and this is just enough to keep the NO3 below 10 (which is still way to high!). I have no idea what is causing the NO3 to raise so quickly as there is just around 50 shrimp and nothing more.
      The tank is 30L (8 gal), inert substrate, heavily planted, I add no fertilizers.
      Plants are duckweed, anubias, cryptocoryne, and eleocharis parvula carpet.
      Two HOB filters - one is sponge, the other one is small sponge + peat + JBL nitratex + seachem matrix (I added two weeks ago, as this thing is supposed to bring down nitrates, but so far no results).
      For water changes I use salty shrimp GH +, Azoo Triple Black Water, Azoo Mineral Plus(every second week) and Azoo Ph Down, to adjust the pH of the water that goes into the tank with what's already there.
      As for bacteria I add seachem pristine, and seachem stability once a week around 2ml of each.
      Feeding is once per 2-3 days, small amounts that gets eaten in a few hours.
      So I had that issue already around 5 months back and what I did is bought the JBL bionitratex and added duckweed, and it did solved the problem but to get a good result I had to use two bags of the JBL product for a single tank (the product comes with 4 bags total). Now this thing is quiet expensive imo for the time it lasts, so I would like to ask for any other options to keep the NO3 in check, as the plants are clearly not able to handle that.
      From my observations - there is a substantial amount of muck in the substrate, but since the tank is heavily planted I cannot vacuum it.
      If needed I can provide some pictures of the tank.
      Your help greatly appreciated !
    • revolutionhope
      By revolutionhope
      Hey SKF,
      I've recently started adding 2ppm of nitrates to my weekly/fortnightly waterchanges as my tank constantly had zero nitrates and my plants were looking hungry. The product I use is cal aqua labs green.
      I'd like to know what people's experiences or opinions are on whether small amounts of fertiliser can be added to shrimp tanks WITHOUT dripping it in slowly (as in a typical waterchange which is what I'm currently doing)
      In other words; if I directly dose the 1 or 2 ppm worth of nitrates to my aquarium without slowly dripping it into the tank would it have any negative impact on the health and/or breeding of crystal or tiger shrimps?
      love n peace
      will


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  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      Usually temperatures in cellars are pretty constant (if it is underground)? I can confirm that even branded heaters can cook the shrimp (learnt that the hard way), it happened to me so a controller is a good idea. If you are that bothered about the temperature being the same and the cellar does fluctuate a lot you may also need a cooler, depending on where you are based?  Simon
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Very sorry to hear about the tank overheating and wiping out your shrimps! Can you get a 2 plug adapter and have the heater and cooler plugged into that overheating safety device as extra security? I now what happened is probably just a freaky thing (who would expect a cooler to heat the water?) that probably won't happen again but you won't be happy with loosing the crabs???? Hopefully the shrimps will be ok with the micro crabs (beautiful red wine in the picture)? Most of the stringy algae has gone in my shrimp tank so I will do maintenance tomorrow, tests at the weekend and if all is ok I will order the (final) red shrimps next week. Thumbs up for perseverance! Simon
    • kms
      They were purchased after the incident, but I'm happy I found the crabs.😅
    • jayc
      I use cheap no name brand heaters now. I use them with my Inkbird temp controller, so I don't have to worry about the heater failing. ✌️
    • jayc
      😲 Oh no !!! 😭 At least you still have the micro crabs and 3 red wines.
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