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By ErinF
Hi!
I know this has probably been asked a million times before but my shrimp keep dying and it's truely a mystery and being very new to shrimp keeping I'm hoping someone can help. Sorry this is long, tia!
I cycled my 21L tank for 2 months with plants (anubias on driftwood and hair grass with some floating rotala) I use Seachem Prime and Stability.
I tested everything and all was fine (we keep fish so I'm not new to water parameters just shrimp) I put in 3 large natives (pictured) and a pack of 10 glass shrimp I ordered from livefish.
All of the glass died within the week but the natives (transferred over from my housemates tank) are still thriving and have even shed the other week and grew a little. I feed algae wafers every 3 days and Hikari shrimp cuisine every second.
Did a small water change last week (10-15%) and on the weekend put in 2 cherries and 3 glass from an aquarium shop in. One of the cherries is dead and the others except 2 are hiding and I havnt seen them since the first day.
I've noticed a few detritus worms on my glass, could it be an oxygen issue? Temp is at 23°c same as housemates tank but the aquarium shop didn't seem to have a heater and livefish sent the glass in bags that arrived cold I floated the bags and let a little of my water in for about 40 mins before setting them free.
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By NoGi
Different Grades
Cherry - Clear legs with body covered in a little colour.
Sakura - Legs and bottom half covered in a little colour, top half has more colour coverage.
Fire - Full coverage of colour including the legs. Saddle and eggs on the female still visible under regular lighting.
Painted Fire - Same as Fire except the saddle and eggs on the female only visible under special lighting conditions.
Different Patterns
Rilli - Solid portions of the shrimp are transparent. The more transparency, the higher the grade.
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By NoGi
Different Grades
Cherry - Clear legs with body covered in a little colour.
Sakura - Legs and bottom half covered in a little colour, top half has more colour coverage.
Fire - Full coverage of colour including the legs. Saddle and eggs on the female still visible under regular lighting.
Painted Fire - Same as Fire except the saddle and eggs on the female only visible under special lighting conditions.
Different Patterns
Rilli - Solid portions of the shrimp are transparent. The more transparency, the higher the grade.
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By beanbag · Posted
I don't know if bacteria is the cause. It seems to be an uncommonly diagnosed problem because most shrimp articles only talk about bacteria infection as "a few shrimp die every day / week" What can I say, a standard dose of minocycline and erythromycin didn't work to stop it, so not sure if oxytetracycline will work. -
By jayc · Posted
Ah yes. That was the injectable form of oxytetracycline. Each mL of the injectable form contains: 100 mg oxytetracycline HCl, 5.75% w/v magnesium chloride , 6 H2O, 17% v/v water for injection, 1.3% w/v sodium formaldehyde Sulfoxylate as a preservative and q.s. with propylene glycol. Basically, it has additional compositions in it. 1000mg might have been the dose recommended for the injectable oxytetracycline, but if you have the powder form then follow the dosing rates as recommended on your bottle. Hope that clears it up a bit. As for doxycycline and it's use to treat short antenna ... I cannot comment on whether it will be more effective than oxytetracycline or not. But if you do use it, only try one at a time. Is bacteria even been proven to be the cause of "short antenna disease"? -
By beanbag · Posted
14 April 2015 - Update based on experiences of one of our SKF members. Unfortunately for this shrimpkeeper it was too late to save these shrimps, but hopefully this experience will help someone else. 250+ shrimp were lost before the bacterial infection was halted. A vet was consulted and he eventually ended up contacting a senior lecturer of aquatic animal health at University of Adelaide school of veterinary science. He stated that bacterial infections being internal or external are almost always gram negative in aquatics and recommended using oxytetracycline at a dose rate of 1000-2000mg per 40ltr of water. Dosing method: Oxytetracycline is available in 2 forms. Powder and injectable. The injectable form was used as it is a stronger form. This meant that we could use less to obtain the required dosage. Dosed straight into the water column at 1000mg per 40ltr of water. -
By jayc · Posted
What?! Can you point me to where you saw that please? If in doubt, Always follow the directions on the bottle. -
By beanbag · Posted
What is the recommended dosing for oxytetracycline? The sticky thread has a mention of " 1000mg per 40ltr ", but I don't know if that refers to total amount of powder, or active ingredient percentage. I live in USA, where oxytetracycline is not as common, but I was able to obtain a bottle of powder. On the bottle, it says [calculated out to] 75 mg / 10 gal, which is a wayyyy lower value. Also, the manufacturer / distributor won't tell me the fraction of the power that is active ingredient vs filler. This is for a Taiwan Bee shrimp tank with pH 5.5 and Gh 5, in case that matters for the effectiveness of oxytet in these parameters. I also have doxycycline available if that is equivalent / better. It's to treat that "short antenna disease" in one of my tanks that seems to show up once every few months. I've already dosed with Maracyn 1 (erythromycin) and 2 (minocycline) and they didn't seem to work.
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