Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
perplex

Peat moss

Recommended Posts

kizshrimp

Hey Perps, I've used that moss for plants and it's pretty rubbish. I use peat granules for ponds in my aquaria; the bag I've got is from JBL but most of the good german brands have a peat granulate - certainly Eheim and Sera both have one available here in a kg box. The granules are nice because they're not messy like raw peat. 

If you want to use raw peat then unfortunately it has to be a quality one which you buy in 200L bales. If you have no luck finding granules pm me and I'll send you a bag of raw if you want. Sorry, not enough granules to spare. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Grubs

NO.   Brunnings Peat Moss @Bunnings is a Peat Moss substitute made from composted pine bark (stated in the fine print only).

I just went thought this last week. I did confirm by phoning two manufacturers that "Attunga" and "Searles" brand peat moss is New Zealand sphagnum peat... but I had to go to an independent garden center to find it. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
perplex

Hey Perps, I've used that moss for plants and it's pretty rubbish. I use peat granules for ponds in my aquaria; the bag I've got is from JBL but most of the good german brands have a peat granulate - certainly Eheim and Sera both have one available here in a kg box. The granules are nice because they're not messy like raw peat. 

If you want to use raw peat then unfortunately it has to be a quality one which you buy in 200L bales. If you have no luck finding granules pm me and I'll send you a bag of raw if you want. Sorry, not enough granules to spare. 

whats the difference with raw peat and peat moss? ill im after is something to lower the ph and cheap, sick of using ph down, and currently out of my original peat moss

NO.   Brunnings Peat Moss @Bunnings is a Peat Moss substitute made from composted pine bark (stated in the fine print only).

I just went thought this last week. I did confirm by phoning two manufacturers that "Attunga" and "Searles" brand peat moss is New Zealand sphagnum peat... but I had to go to an independent garden center to find it. 

ok thanks mate, did you find any other peat moss?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
revolutionhope

my 2cents - using peat to lower pH (at least ime in aquariums) is hard to manage and mild in effect at best. i asked this same question a while ago here on skf and was advised to get benibachi fulvic grains. i havent got some yet i think it may be expensive? anyway just thought id chime in. :-) love n peace will

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
perplex

my 2cents - using peat to lower pH (at least ime in aquariums) is hard to manage and mild in effect at best. i asked this same question a while ago here on skf and was advised to get benibachi fulvic grains. i havent got some yet i think it may be expensive? anyway just thought id chime in. :-) love n peace will

yea, ive used it, and got some, it only lasts 6 months and expensive for the amount you get.

 

what do you mean by its hard to manage and mild in effect at best?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
kizshrimp

Yeah, what Grubs said. I assume the Attunga and Searles peat are in smaller volumes than the bales I buy which would be great for smaller volume users. I seem to get Canadian or Lithuanian Sphagnum peat rather than NZ. 

Will is also right about peat. It's slow to have much effect unless you have a lot in a small volume of water. If your pH is ok anyway but you'd just like to see it slightly lower, peat is great. If you want some tannin in the water, same. You could get a quicker effect with blackwater extracts with peat a slow release source. You could use IAL, Oak, Alder etc. Fulvic acid granules are similar in that they act by releasing fulvates and humates, but being a refined product will have a stronger effect than peat. 

If you need to quickly drop the pH of your water peat will probably be the wrong way to go. CO2 would be safe and effective if dosed correctly. Sulphuric acid works without adding phosphorus and is in the liquid "pH down" products. If you need to use something like that you probably need to step back and evaluate your water supply. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Grubs

I went to Banksia nursery on Burwood Hwy near knox. The Searles is in a 70l compressed down to 35l bale for $25.  The Attunga was in a 7litre bag for ~$10.  I only chose these because it was what I found quickly and I was only planting up crypts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
perplex

hmm peat moss seems to hard to get...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
perplex

so is there anything else i can use since no one knows where i can get peat moss?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Jenbenwren

I know of a place that will post 10 litres of good quality Canadian TE-EM sphagnum peat moss but it's a little pricey at $30 including postage or $32 with Express post. if thats any help

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
perplex

thanks but i ended up getting some peat pellets from The Tech Den, and after that i may try bunnings one, but if thats no good, ill send you a message

thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
coryjames

Being in Canada it's very cheap, I buy large 2 foot cube bales for 7$ 

I use it in a small hob filter to release tannins and other good stuff in my    remineralized ro water , I find it's not as stressful when preforming water changes. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      Sorry to hear you have lost a shrimp. How many are there left in the tank? I wouldn't act to hastily and start treating for something that may not be? Maybe it just died and you will never know why if it had no symptoms? Just keep a close eye on the rest for now! Maybe the BKK weren't very healthy to start with if they hadn't grown as expected, though also there may not have been sufficient food, but that is less likely if the others in the tank have grown! I would feed the shrimps as the grazing area is fairly limited (I assume this is your 80L divided into 4) but sparingly, maybe twice a week. Crush up a pellet into almost a powder, then dip a pin or similar a couple of mm in the water, then into the food, then back in to the tank will give them something different to eat to supplement their diet. I would check the temperature of the water as well as when my old setup overheated they started going an orange/pink colour? It is good that you obviously spend time watching them as they are fascinating to watch and very calming!  Simon
    • Crabby
      Perfect. I've got a spare heater, can source a tank and filtration, have cycled media, and have a simple light if ambient light isn't enough.  Pretty random question - are sponge filters super noisy? I've never used one with an air pump, and the qt tank would go in my bedroom; but only if I could actually sleep 🙂. Otherwise, is it cool to turn off a filter at night? Cheers
    • jayc
      Usually a week or two should be enough with careful observation to see if any symptoms develop.   No. But it depends on the filtration. If you use a mature filter, then you don't need to cycle a quarantine tank for very long. I just use the water from my water change to fill a quarantine tank. And some old filter media floss from a mature filter in the quarantine tank's canister. The quarantine tank is very basic, no decor, no substrate, nothing. Except maybe some lights to check for diseases after a week or two. You can get away with lights, and use a hand held torch even.  Just a heater.
    • Crabby
      Thanks for the advice guys, I really appreciate it! As for the details, the tank is my 110L community, and while none of my fish are especially expensive or special, but I don’t want to lose any or have to rescape. The reason I was hoping to avoid qt is bc I don’t have a spare tank or filter atm. I think I will qt I think. How long should I do it for, and do I need to cycle the tank very long?
    • beanbag
      Hello folks, This is in regards to my TB tank that has had shrimp for about 2 months now.  The shrimp came in two batches from different vendors - one was two BKK and the other was a bunch of RWP and BB.  Everything was going well for about 2 months with the shrimps actively grazing around and suddenly I found one of the BKK dead and upright in a corner of the tank.  I usually do a check-up on the shrimp every day and the only time the shrimp are inert is one day before and after a molt.  In the past when I had shrimp die for various reasons they would be inert for a few days prior. The water parameters are the same as usual: Amm/NO2/NO3 = 0, ph = 6.0 or a little lower, GH 5, TDS 110 Using RO + SS GH+ and I did a 15% water change 2 days ago, dripping in the new water. I haven't fed any pellet shrimp food for a while because there are still lots of patches of algae in the tank, plus one IAL, plus they finished off a mulberry leaf 2 days ago. Nothing looks odd on the dead body of this shrimp (no real color loss) except the clear parts like antennae and tip of tail are a little orange.  (I think this is typical of shrimp that have died?  Or a molt shell once you remove it from the water and expose it to air.) The only odd things about this shrimp are that in the 2 months, it molted a few times but never grew much (or at all) over the original 1/2" size.  About a month ago, the white parts of it started turning blue.  The other BKK that came at the same time also either hasn't grown at all or maybe just a tiny bit, and only has little patches of blue.  The other batch of shrimp from a different breeder (RWP and BB) have grown significantly over this time. Anyway, the rest of the shrimp seem to still be doing well and actively grazing.  (Actually, two are acting quiet, but it is still within the pre-molt time frame) I hope it's not bacterial infection, but what can I do to prevent / prepare?  I have available: Dr Tim's Eco balance, Doxycycline (fish med), oregano oil, melafix, H2O2.
×
×
  • Create New...