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    • ErinF
      By ErinF
      Hi! 
      I know this has probably been asked a million times before but my shrimp keep dying and it's truely a mystery and being very new to shrimp keeping I'm hoping someone can help. Sorry this is long, tia! 
       
      I cycled my 21L tank for 2 months with plants (anubias on driftwood and hair grass with some floating rotala) I use Seachem Prime and Stability. 
       
      I tested everything and all was fine (we keep fish so I'm not new to water parameters just shrimp) I put in 3 large natives (pictured) and a pack of 10 glass shrimp I ordered from livefish.
       
      All of the glass died within the week but the natives (transferred over from my housemates tank) are still thriving and have even shed the other week and grew a little. I feed algae wafers every 3 days and Hikari shrimp cuisine every second.
       
      Did a small water change last week (10-15%) and on the weekend put in 2 cherries and 3 glass from an aquarium shop in. One of the cherries is dead and the others except 2 are hiding and I havnt seen them since the first day. 
       
      I've noticed a few detritus worms on my glass, could it be an oxygen issue? Temp is at 23°c same as housemates tank but the aquarium shop didn't seem to have a heater and livefish sent the glass in bags that arrived cold I floated the bags and let a little of my water in for about 40 mins before setting them free.

    • cdaJiv
      By cdaJiv
      I currently have a Fluval Spec V which is my shrimp tank, stocked with 20~ Cherry Shrimp, 1 Orange Rili (berring when I bought her and successfully birthed fry), and 2 Crystal Blacks.
      Last week I ordered 20 Assorted Rili Neo Davidi Male Shrimp (I thought I was ordering a mix of Males & Females, sadly mistaken). I also ordered the Dennerle/Shrimp King 10g (Shrimp King Tank) to put them in seperate from my Cherry Shrimp tank. 
      My question is this…
      I want to interbreed these Rili shrimp and in order to do that I will need to purchase a “Breeder Combo Pack” (10 female & 5 male) but I do not know what would be the best option to go with to breed with the 20 Assorted Rili Neo Davidi Male Shrimp that I already have coming.
      Only options that guarantee females:
      — Neon Yellow (Neocaridia Davidi)
      — Orange Sakura (Neocaridia Davidi)
      — Sky Blue Velvet (Neocaridia Davidi)
      — Golden Back Yellow (Neocaridia Davidi)
      ((Other Freshwater Shrimp from AquaticArts))
      I am looking to buy from AquaticArts because they have reasonable prices and I trusted shipping methods, but if anyone knows another source to purchase from that would have better options for what I am trying to do I would be grateful for that information
      Ive been doing my own research to see how interbreeding will turn out but is such a very in depth and situational topic, and I know if I get the wrong type of Neocaridia davidi then it would be possible that one gene is more dominate and would possibly just end up being all one color.
      Can I please have your opinions?
      Thank you
       
    • NoGi
      By NoGi
      Different Grades
      Cherry - Clear legs with body covered in a little colour.

       
       
      Sakura - Legs and bottom half covered in a little colour, top half has more colour coverage.


       
       
      Fire - Full coverage of colour including the legs. Saddle and eggs on the female still visible under regular lighting.

       
       
      Painted Fire - Same as Fire except the saddle and eggs on the female only visible under special lighting conditions.

       
      Different Patterns
      Rilli - Solid portions of the shrimp are transparent. The more transparency, the higher the grade.
       

       



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    • NoGi
      By NoGi
      Different Grades
      Cherry - Clear legs with body covered in a little colour.

       
       
      Sakura - Legs and bottom half covered in a little colour, top half has more colour coverage.


       
       
      Fire - Full coverage of colour including the legs. Saddle and eggs on the female still visible under regular lighting.

       
       
      Painted Fire - Same as Fire except the saddle and eggs on the female only visible under special lighting conditions.

       
      Different Patterns
      Rilli - Solid portions of the shrimp are transparent. The more transparency, the higher the grade.
       

       


    • NoGi


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  • Posts

    • kms
      Mine is a DIY Chiller, as you know a peltier has a hot side and cold side, for the cold side to stay cold, the hot side must be kept cold and with a heatsink and fan to cool it down. My DIY chiller has two sides and two water block. blue aluminum block with tube leading to the outlet of the canister filter and back to the tank to chill the tank water. copper block is to cool the hot side of the peltier, with copper block to the radiator/fan and a water pump looping. The problem is the tube from the water pump came off, apparently the plastic from the pump started to melt and the tube came off and the looping side had no water, so the copper water block stayed hot all the time with heat transferred to the cold side of the peltier also heating the water. since the copper takes time to cool down, most of the heat and the room hot temp had already heat the tank water to about 45 C.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Try testing it again and see what you get or to confirm that the previous were right, especially the higher Ph reading is all I can recommend! If there is some explanation for the difference hopefully someone will reply and let you know, but I expect there won't actually be a difference if you do it again? Simon
    • jayc
      No that's not normal. But I don't know which tube in your loop had come off. Can you show us?   Yes that would have helped a bit, and at least give KMS more time to have found the issue by turning off the chiller. As I understand, kms has a peltier style chiller, and a tube of the pump had come off, which meant that hot water from the hot side of the peltier flowed back into the tank. So if the chiller was on the same temp controller, it would have turned off the chiller at around 26degC. The tank might have got warmer in his room, but it would have been at a much slower rate, and certainly would not have reached 45degC.
    • kvinnyy
      I'm using the API master test kit with the dropper bottles. I was just very confused at how much more akaline the water was coming out of the filter compared to the water out in the open. I can't imagine how this fluctuating change in pH is going to be beneficial for my crs.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      What type of test are you doing strip or drip? I use drip tests and always ignore the first attempt as no matter how well I clean and keep the test set it is often way out of line. Las time first test was Ph8, second test Ph6. Sometimes first attempt looks ok so I have no idea what is going on????? If you just tried once it may be worth testing again? Simon
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