Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
NoGi

Shrimp Identification

Recommended Posts

NoGi

SKF_ID.thumb.jpg.32a66c91a54e6609414b134

 

Edited by NoGi
Updated chart
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
NoGi

Still a work in progress and I'll update the first post as it updates

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
northboy

This is a chart to show how shrimp from the Caridina group are identified. As I have banged on about for ever, it is not colour used for the ID of shrimp with the exception on the Crystal and Cherry types that we/ Humans have changed them from there wild forms to improve the colour, there colour is the defining way to ID them and not body features, where as body features are used to ID all wild types of shrimp.

 

Colour in wild types can vary so greatly, both with in areas and populations, water conditions can have a huge effect of the colour of shrimp populations in the wild, along with many other factors.

 

There is more information to be placed with this chart, it is to give every one a insight into the ID of shrimp and our native shrimp foremost as colour is  always used to try to ID them and it don't work because of the ability of natives to vary colour.

 

Bob

 

 

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
NoGi

Chart has been updated based on feedback from the original author.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
OzShrimp

Wow thats cool, dont thinki have ever seen anything like that before

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Grubs

Just an observation that Figures B and C are not mentioned in the text anywhere and people wont know what it is about them that can be used as significant identifying features.    Fig C seems to be referring to the size of the scaphocerite but I'm not sure what the main point in B is - those spines?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ura

Figs B and C are of the first (antennule) and second antenna. Both are also used for id but I did not want to make the whole id thing too complicated. Admin could not edit out the two figs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
NoGi

Removing the 2 pics made the poster look fairly bare ? if there is some short text I can add to the chart happy to. Just need to know what.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Grubs

Sorry guys - wasnt for a second thinking you'd remove the pics - more just needs a line of text - even if its just to say :"the length of segments and spines on the first and second antennae (figs B and C) are useful characters." (or something to that effect).

all IMO .. grain of salt and all that - its your chart :p

Edited by Grubs

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
NoGi

All good and I encourage feedback so that we can make this the best we can.

@ura, any comments on a short description we could include?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc

Maybe just label fig B  "First Antenna"  and Fig C "Second Antenna"

Most people wont have the equipment to get such a close up of the flagella and protopod, to be able to even see the spines.

You could go up to the point of labelling where the antennule is in the picture.

Edited by jayc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ura

You can add this to the text: The length of the basal segment spine and proportional length of each segment of the first antennular peduncle (Fig. B). The length and width ratio of the scaphocerite (blade) and the proportional length of each segment of the antennal peduncle (Fig. C). Hope it makes sense :)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ura

Oops, the first smiley was meant to be Fig. B.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
NoGi

OK, how's that?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ura

That should do. Cheers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
northboy

Thanks for that art work ura, where did you come up with that user name, not wanting to be rude or nosy, are OK nosy then

 

I think it will serve its reason for being up there, that being, to show every one colour is not the way to ID every thing but Crystal and Cherry types, I use to bang on about the Rostrum because I was not sure on haw to explain the rest and that clears it up. TA

 

I am glad its you having to look at the new ones and not me, I would be MORE mental than I all read am

 

Bob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Grubs

I like it.  Its a good reference.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ura

Hi Bob, I knew someone would ask. Ura means shrimp/prawn in another language that I happen to know :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
northboy

Got you, Vince told me and a sticky beak asked LOL

Be good

 

Bob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • TheMikeGoesMoo
      By TheMikeGoesMoo
      I'm really desperate to try to figure out what Shrimps these are so I can properly learn what to do.They seem like some weird hybrid or just shrimp that camouflage into their environment. When I first got them from the small river they were clear, light brown or had a yellow tint... 
      I'm unable to get the pictures to load here so please go onto this link... I go into further detail on this post.
    • NoGi
    • travellife
      By travellife
      These were sold to me as being Sunkist Shrimp.  I'm totally new to the hobby and forgot to verify the scientific name.  I called the store back a few days later and was told by a different employee they are Caridina Cantonensis.  Does that seem correct based on the photo?  I'd sure like to verify so that I can learn more about their requirements.

       
       


  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Posts

    • DNTM_Shrimp_Breeders
      Yes, I can confirm that rock / pebble rock / gravel will cause the pH to raise over time.  My RODI water comes out as around 6.8 according to my pH meter.  And I did follow the manufacturer's suggestion to wait 5-6 minutes when measuring RODI water because of the low ion.  After adding it to the tank, the pH becomes 7.2 -> 7.4.  The highest that I've recorded in my journal is 7.6 but it never goes higher than that. Here is my shrimp's diet: On M-W-F, I feed Bacter AE + Shrimp Baby.  On T-TH-S, I feed Shrimp Dinner. And on Sunday, I feed Shrimp King Protein to increase shrimp production.  Water change is once a month because I have a ton of floating plants to keep Nitrate low. @sdlTBfanUK It's probably because of the low quality image so it makes some of the PRL babies' color turn black 😁 But there are no CBS at all in this shrimp tank
    • sdlTBfanUK
      That's very interesting. I have read a lot that PH fluctuates throughout the day naturally anyway but it is interesting that your Bee shrimp are fine at PH7.4 as indeed mine were also (although it is normally outside their ideal range)! The PH in my tank started at about 5.5 and then went up to 7.5 over about a year (rock caused that I suspect) but as it was a slow progression it didn't seem to have any affect on them at all! It looks like you have some crystal black babies in that tank as well? Simon
    • DNTM_Shrimp_Breeders
      @sdlTBfanUK pH is around 7.4 in the morning and 7.2 at night.  I know it's dangerous and easy to have pH swing when you don't have active substrate.  That's why I measure pH at least twice a day using the pH meter.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Great picture and love the shrimplets. Also pleased to hear it is all working so well! Do you now what the PH is of the new 20G tank? Simon
    • sdlTBfanUK
      That sounds great and pleased you have decided to go ahead. As you don't have any occupants in the tank at the moment it should be easy to get the tank parameters right by doing the planned water changes and add very little of the GH/KH+ until you have done the last large water change on Tuesday, that way it is easier to add the GH/KH+ to the level you want directly into the tank then - easier than finding it is over and having to get it down?  IF you were thinking of getting the shrimps from ProShrimp, they have quite a variety, bear in mind that there is postage cost only to a certain value (I think it is £35) so it may be better value to order a few more shrimps instead of paying the postage - if that makes sense??? If you are having them delivered Prohrimp or ebay you need to be home to sign/receive them obviously and IF using ebay MAKE SURE the seller is sending 'Express Delivery (Royal Mail Special Delivery (TM) 1:00 pm)'! Hopefully we will hear that everything has worked out well and all the hassle hasn't marred the experience.  Simon
×
×
  • Create New...