Jump to content
T_Young

2 small rcs dead within 24 hours

Recommended Posts

T_Young

I've had a tank cycling for about 4 weeks, pH was on high side ( investing in ro-di soon). Gh : 0 kH:7 pH 7.4. Water temp 72

I have some subwassertang, Java moss and dwarf hair grass. And after boiling and soaking this piece of Mopani wood, I added it yesterday in hopes of further lowering the pH without the Seachem 7.0 regulator, and Fluval tap conditioner.

I brought home 5 rcs yesterday because I was in the big city where they actually carry them. I'm aware of new tank syndrome and all the other various issues that arise. I admit I'm really bummed out. I wasn't aware that one that he scooped up was in the middle of molting, and he died shortly after the drip acclimation and entrance into the tank. The second one I found this morning. Perhaps my water change didn't help. I'm not Sure, im new to the hobby, but i am currently setting up a rack, and putting some money back for the rodi unit.. Feeling discouraged. I can't keep my pH down, and I wanted to raise shrimp because I love watching them, not to see them dead at the bottom of the tank.

Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Grahms

Im only a novice, but it seems that your kH is really high. If you are going to use tap water, let it age for a like a week aerating in the shade outside....Otherwise get an RO unit and use Salty Shrimp Bee Shrimp Mineral GH+.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Disciple

Hello T_Young,

You might need to check your test kit because i am sure you can not have 0 gh when you have 7 kh.

You mentioned that you have cycled your tank for 4 weeks just wondering what is the ammonnia, nitrites and nitrates in your tank atm? What temperature is it currently?

Your ph is fine for rcs i dont think you need to lower it.

What type of substrate are you currently using?

More questions than answers but hopefully we can work it out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Grubs

I assume your water is coming from the aquifer which may explain the high carbonates.  GH 0 is the bigger issue IMO. If that reading is correct then you need to boost your hardness which will add calcium and magnesium to the water.  Calcium in particular is required for moulting.  RCS (Cherry's) are pretty forgiving and you shouldn't need to go down the road of RODI for them KH=7 isn't extreme.  I would first check your hardness test to see if it really is GH=0  (take some water to the LFS if you have access to one and take your kit with you and compare).  Assuming it is GH=0 then some GH booster is in order (Salty Shrimp or just Seachem Equilibrium).    Get the cherry's under your belt first... then consider RODI and shrimp minerals if you decide to keep more exotic shrimp.  Walk... then run...

 

 

That said - if the stock from the LFS wasn't in good condition your deaths could just be transplant shock of unhappy shrimp so don't be too bummed.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
revolutionhope

gday T

 

im not very experienced compared to most of the regulars here but FWIW i agree with most of what others have said here it is unlikely you would have gh of 0 and kh of 7. You most definitely need to re-check your [pH, gh and kh testing because something is not right with these numbers. if your kh really is 7 and your gh really is 0 then your pH wil not be 7.4 as disciple mentioned. pH of 7.4 is fine, i have always had my cherries at pH 7.4 - 7.6. however as grubs has mentioned gH of zero will definitely mess with your RCS chance of survival. i doubt they could moult in this situation because they need to absorb calcium and magnesium from the water to build their shell.

 

you mentioend something about a water change? depending on how you do the water change then you are right - fluctuations in water conditions are quite detrimental to shrimps.

 

it is absolutely critical that you test your ammonia and nitrite in a new tank. shrimps are very sensitive to nitrogenous waste compared to most beginner fish. if you can tell us about how you source your water and how you prepare/conditioned as well as what is your substrate and what else may be in the tank aside from the mopani wood that will assist people here to pinpoint the issue. temperature of tank might be relevant too although RCS are quite forgiving it is safest to keep them in the mid-low 20s range.

 

hope i've added something helpful to what the others have already told you.

 

love n peace

 

will

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
T_Young

Thanks everyone , been struggling with test readings, still waiting for digital ones to come in. I got out a test strip and from what I understand the levels are GH 0-30 I really couldn't tell the difference between the two level on the strip. KH 160 ph 7.6 nitrite .5 nitrate is now at 20. So I guess spikes in my water parameters. Very frustrating

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
T_Young
d7c3d6d326c185b326bf8ff7dee5c2df.jpg1a2e7c6fa79cb050a9613cc674176433.jpg96981805bd2b26d6bfafd165ca55a070.jpg Edited by T_Young

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
T_Young

This little guy, I can't figure out what's wrong with his shell? I didn't think molting started on the side like that? Did he hurt himself?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
T_Young

Sorry, the temp is at 76 degrees right now, substrate is black aquarium sand, I have a aquasoil substrate on its way also. I am trying to provide as much info as I can without being hairbrained, apologies. I did dose GH into the tank 2 days ago and it filled the tank with smoky cloud that cleared 5 minutes after doing so, freaked me out because when I was cycling, I don't recall it doing that. Within 12 hours, I found one dead, and then every 12-24 I found another. Now there is 2, and one of themselves shell is messed up. Treated water with Seachem 7.0 regulator, Fluval water conditioner. Ammonia remover. Noticing a white/clear hair algae on dwarf hairgrass.

If I lose them both, I guess I'll need to scrap the tank and start over.

Edited by T_Young

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
fishmosy

At this point, treating your water with the list of chemicals you mentioned is probably doing more harm than good. Shrimp are highly sensitive to changes in water parameters. They need stability.

If you want to change your water parameters, do it SLOWLY by mixing new water to your desired levels (pH, GH, KH, ect), then add it SLOWLY to your tank as part of a SMALL water change (max. 10% a week).

Best of luck with your two remaining shrimp.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Disciple

Just wondering why you are using ammonia remover?

Are you still having ammonia, nitrites or nitrate showing up? If so your tank may not be fully cycled yet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
T_Young

Thanks everyone. I think that's what I did... I panicked and did 2 major water changes and levels spiked.. The shrimp that had the shell I was worried about, he molted. Looks better, hanging out under the Mopani.

Thanks for the advice everyone. Definitely been taking notes.

Edited by T_Young

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

    Join Our Community!

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      Great to hear everything is going nicely and you feel ready to start transferring more to the new tank. You were always going to have the PH difference as you are using soil but my cherry shrimp I have in both tanks thrive ok, it just means that you should drip acclimate them probably most of the day to be on the safe side and it is easy enough with the dripper to just leave it going all day. I am not advocating doing this, but as I was putting the cull shrimps into the new betta tank which had a low PH due to new substrate I just dumped them straight in and they were fine and I didn't see a dead one ever (I saw 10 the other day which is about the number I DUMPED in there) - they are much hardier/adaptable than the bee shrimps. I would do as you want/propose and try 10 for the first transfer! I really don't think you will have a problem with the PH difference but would do a long acclimatising to be safe. I have the same floating weed and mine grows really quickly but it is much easier to keep that under control than duckweed as when you get too many big ones you just remove a few. Incidentally when I do my weekly maintenance I trim off the longer bits of root to about 2 inches and it doesn't seem to harm them! You should probably keep a close eye on the tanks this week as we are supposed to be over 30 degrees most of the week. The smaller tank will be the one most at risk of excessive heat? I wish my reset shrimp tank was as lush and green as your new one - good job! I have added 17 shrimps so far and saw 8 yesterday? Simon
    • CurleyJones321
      Right so i've left the tanks and inhabitants for well this long simply because i dont want things to die off if i can help it and people have said leave it a month after establishing a tank before adding shrimp. Other than doing normal maintenance and transferring the 2 liters of old water from the small tank to the large each time and the large tank then getting an extra 2 liters of mineralised new water. Friday i sorted out all the tank decor in both tanks and adjusted the tank TDS to within 5TDS of each other. mainly because i needed to cull the flaoting plants which in the large tank the frogbit has taken over and in the small tank the water lettuce had almost taken over. the Duckweed has all but died out in both tanks not that i have done anything to aid it. my tanks now look like the attached. i then took readings they are as follows:-

      Small tank
      TDS - 232
      Temp - 23C
      PH - 7
      NH4 - Unreadable
      N03 - 1PPM
      N02 - 0.05PPM
      P04 - 2PPM
      dKH - 2
      dGH - 6

      Large Tank
      TDS - 237
      Temp - 24C
      PH - 5.5
      NH4 - Unreadable
      N03 - Unreadable
      N02 - Unreadable
      P04 - 1PPM
      dKH - 1
      dGH - 5

      So the Phosphate is up but thats because i was massively invasive in the tanks and churned up the fertaliser i have in the tank substrate. The PH is also what i would consider to be completely off

      also as a side note its worth mentioning that stressing plays out seems to stimulate them to give birth, i now have an extra at least 3 fry appear in the tank just after the works when the mothers had seemed to have stopped giving birth.

      i also got a new fish the in other breed of platy because the fish keeper at my LFS told me they could interbreed and it might make what im doing with the fish go faster, i got him today and named him Rodney and am about to add him to the Large Tank with Tyrone  before taking Tyrone out and putting more females in the tank with Rodney to let nature take its course. the Fish keeper did tell me to drip acclimate him however as the PH shock may be too much so that's what I'm currently doing and he's on his 2nd dip.

      that does make me wonder however can i now add shrimp to the tank or is the PH going to be a massive problem. i estimate i have between 60 and 100 shrimp in the small tank and want to transfer over say 10?
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Thanks for replying. I know what you mean about breeding, I started off with about 10 and was soon (couple of months) over 100, and  I am sure that would have kept going up if the tank could  have supported more??? I don't see any reason that it wouldn't work with bee shrimps if it is working so well for your cherry shrimp. Obviously the parameters are different but if you are managing to keep the cherry tanks stable I don't see why the bee would be any different, although they are a lot harder to keep! Worth a try though unless someone says otherwise? I shall certainly follow this with some interest. Simon 
    • Myola
      Hi Simon, NO, I wasn't using a buffering substrate previously in the neo tanks, it was just some white gravel that I had laying around. It had originally been in a fish tank some years ago, so it wasn't new when I put it into the neo tank. It started to break down just because of age, and my GH, and subsequently TDS, were rising out of control. JayC talked me through a rebuild with a bare floor. It has worked so well that when I set up more neo tanks I just made them bare as well. Like I said, I wouldn't go back. The little buggers are breeding like crazy, I have a very high baby survival rate and almost no deaths. Under my particular water conditions, it works great ... for neo caridinas. Now I want to do the same with caridinas, but not sure if there's more to a buffering substrate that I don't know about. Hopefully someone out there will be able to help me (and you) with the answers :)  
    • sdlTBfanUK
      A very good question and one I will follow with much interest as I had a similar question a year ago in that would I need to replace the substrate when it stopped buffering with my Taiwan bee tank if all the water I use has the right parameters. Unfortunately I don't know the answer in my case as my heater stuck on and killed all my shrimps off so I am starting again, though I still wonder about the same issue, though I should have at least a year before the new substrate stops buffering.  A lot of big breeding companies that have hundreds or thousands of shrimp (cherry and bee) in each tank (big tanks admittedly) use bare tanks (for obvious conveniences) so I am guessing it will be ok! Hopefully someone who has done it may get back to this thread, but otherwise I would give it a go with a few, especially if you have a spare small tank etc and see how it goes? If you used buffering substrate before but were using RO mineralised water of ideal PH did you have a problem once the substrate lost its buffering ability? I am/was hoping that the substrate buffering wasn't really needed if the water going into the tank is always around PH 5 or 6?  Simon
×