Jump to content

Neo's Journal


neo-2FX

Recommended Posts

Wow - fantastic support here guys, thankyou!

 

OK have got a pic of the filter.

 

So basically it needs to be, from bottom up, Blue pad (coarse) > Substrat pro or mech > White pad (medium) > Marine Pure > Wool (need to buy some?)

 

OR

 

Blue pad (coarse) > Marine Pure > White pad (medium) > Marine Pure > Wool

 

with the latter being the preferred?

 

Thanks everyone for their input, it's helped me a lot!

 

:jig:

 

 

post-1167-0-18200700-1423799450_thumb.jp

post-1167-0-79043600-1423799451_thumb.jp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Blue pad (coarse) > White pad (medium) > Wool > Marine Pure 

if you still have space after the Marine pure you can add substrat pro above it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Blue pad (coarse) > White pad (medium) > Wool > Marine Pure 

if you still have space after the Marine pure you can add substrat pro above it.

 

Thanks jayc!!!

 

Will set it up as you suggested above.

 

Thanks again.

Edited by neo-2FX
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well the noodles (mech) are not intended as bio media, but as coarse mechanical.  I can tell you all for a fact that the blue sponge will clog faster than the noodles. Set it up as you wish neo-2fx, the mechanical load from a shrimp tank should never clog it anyway. But the supplied media with an eheim classic is intended to be set up as I described, and as the picture on the box shows. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well the noodles (mech) are not intended as bio media, but as coarse mechanical. I can tell you all for a fact that the blue sponge will clog faster than the noodles. Set it up as you wish neo-2fx, the mechanical load from a shrimp tank should never clog it anyway. But the supplied media with an eheim classic is intended to be set up as I described, and as the picture on the box shows.

OK so maybe I need to take the best of both worlds and leave as is and remove some of the top spheres and replace with some marine pure?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK so maybe I need to take the best of both worlds and leave as is and remove some of the top spheres and replace with some marine pure?

 

You will find that everyone has their own way of doing things. I only explained how I set up my filters which happen to be almost the same way Jayc does his but it not the only way you must do it :D

 

As Kizshrimp points out the waste from a shrimp tank is quite low compared to a fish tank. Also I am sure thousand of ppl set up their filters as per the picture on the box so I don't think you can go wrong following that method. I am sure as you try different things you will figure out what works for you.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spot on Disciple. There's so many choices of media to use and different ways to stack it - and they'd all work. We aim for long service intervals and to that end we want coarse mechanical first in line. We also aim for optimum conditions for nitrification and that means keeping the bio media clean, somewhere near the end of the line. The most important thing is that it all keeps flowing well to supply oxygen to that biomedia.

 

Neo, stack it how it works out best for you - you can change it later if you're not happy. I have presumed you've got only the supplied media and some marinepure handy but perhaps you have more. I don't disagree with JayC or Disciple's advice, I just don't consider it to be making the most of what you have. While I don't use it I fully accept that marinepure is awesome media, but substrat pro is being underrated here. It's awesome stuff too. So is siporax, biomax, matrix and a bunch of other excellent media with other brand names. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow - fantastic support here guys, thankyou!

OK have got a pic of the filter.

So basically it needs to be, from bottom up, Blue pad (coarse) > Substrat pro or mech > White pad (medium) > Marine Pure > Wool (need to buy some?)

OR

Blue pad (coarse) > Marine Pure > White pad (medium) > Marine Pure > Wool

with the latter being the preferred?

Thanks everyone for their input, it's helped me a lot!

:jig:

This is how mine is setup also

Link to comment
Share on other sites

im a noob compared to these guys and there may be a good reason not to do this but I got the idea from somewhere on the web - I remove the basket from my eheim canisters and add some sponge at the bottom wedged along with the blue coarse one. then I have a wool and above that I use biomedia all the way to the top - I also use the internal otto PF sponges wrapped around the intake with wool to cover the bottom part which has meant that I havent had to service my filters for a long time now because most of the solids get caught by the sponge inside the aquarium. (imo its easier to remove the sponge and wring it out than it is to disconnect canister take it to sink then take all the bio-media out from the canister and store in a bucket of tank.water in order to get to the bottom sponge in canister to clean it!) id be interested to know what the more experienced shrimpies here think of this method and whether there is some drawback i havent realised yet?

love n peace

will

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All good suggestions everybody.

My suggestion was based on the assumption Neo will be using a mesh pre filter, like we are all doing mostly. This is a shrimp tank filter, right?

The mesh prefix filter not only stops shrimp being sucked into the filter, it also minimises large debris clogging the coarse sponge.

The blue coarse sponge should stay unclogged for a long time.

And Substrate pro is a good bio media. I didn't dismiss it completely, I suggested using it after the marine pure, to close the gaps.

Neo, in case you didn't know, your filter intake NEEDS a prefilter. Mesh or sponge. To stop shrimps being sucked in. But it will also stop large debris.

If it was a fish tank with no prefilter, I'd set it up differently, with the rings first > blue sponge > white sponge > fine sponge > marine pure

Edited by jayc
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Totally understand guys! Yes, definitely looking at prefilter of either mesh or sponge.

OK so based on what jayc is saying, if I have the mesh prefilter then there is no real need for the rings at the bottom?

I'll have pre filter mesh > blue sponge > marine pure > white sponge > substrate pro > wool > carbon (temporarily)?

Edited by neo-2FX
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No real need for the rings. The more space for marine pure spheres the better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Neo, in case you didn't know, your filter intake NEEDS a prefilter. Mesh or sponge. To stop shrimps being sucked in. But it will also stop large debris.

 

Good one JayC, the intake has been ignored until now I think. Critical info. With an intake sponge or mesh there's no chance of the coarse media blocking up. 

 

Will, your setup sounds fine to me. I would still look in the cannister occasionally just to make sure. 

 

Neo, use the marinepure and substrat how JayC suggested, with the substrat directly on the marinepure to close the gaps. You want to force the flow path through the balls, not around them. So don't separate them with a white pad. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How's that look?

Should I just be putting the substrat pro on top or do I put them in all the gaps between the marine pure?

Also, where can I get a *real* stainless steel intake guard from? Ones at the local LFS look dodgy. Was advise by one of the guys there to search online for a "316" stainless steel one that won't rust?

post-1167-14238921942186_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's a recent thread about even 316 stainless rusting in acidic shrimp water, and a follow-up of sorts by fishmosy on DIY guards made from nylon aquaculture mesh. There's good information there about the mesh aperture sizes required to keep shrimplets in. The easiest, cheapest and possibly best option may be as Will described above, using a sponge on the intake. A drawback is that it's sure to block up quicker than a mesh strainer. 

 

If I was doing what you're doing with the cannister I'd put the white pad up top so you can get to it easily when it needs cleaning. I'd possibly put a thin layer of sub below the marinepure and then load sub into the gaps around each layer of marine. When you're done load the rest of the sub on top, then finish with the white pad. BUT, I also recommend waiting for JayC to reply so you can get his opinion too. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's a recent thread about even 316 stainless rusting in acidic shrimp water, and a follow-up of sorts by fishmosy on DIY guards made from nylon aquaculture mesh. There's good information there about the mesh aperture sizes required to keep shrimplets in. The easiest, cheapest and possibly best option may be as Will described above, using a sponge on the intake. A drawback is that it's sure to block up quicker than a mesh strainer.

If I was doing what you're doing with the cannister I'd put the white pad up top so you can get to it easily when it needs cleaning. I'd possibly put a thin layer of sub below the marinepure and then load sub into the gaps around each layer of marine. When you're done load the rest of the sub on top, then finish with the white pad. BUT, I also recommend waiting for JayC to reply so you can get his opinion too.

I will need something at the top to stop anything getting sucked up into the impeller.

Interesting about the stainless steel. Have you got a link, can't seem to find it.

Edited by neo-2FX
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks buck!

Jayc, what's the verdict on the sponge? On top of marine pure or below? Or leave the one where it is now and get another and put on top?

Also, with the Eheim should I go spraybar or normal outlet?

I'm thinking spraybar to give it an even flow?

Edited by neo-2FX
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks buck!

Jayc, what's the verdict on the sponge? On top of marine pure or below? Or leave the one where it is now and get another and put on top?

Also, with the Eheim should I go spraybar or normal outlet?

I'm thinking spraybar to give it an even flow?

 

How you had it in the last picture is fine. Top it off with Substrat pro on top of the marine pure. You don't need another sponge above all the biological media. The basket should have a lid that will stop large media getting into the impeller.

 

 

Spraybar or normal outlet is a personal choice and what you are trying to achieve.

 

Spraybar, depending on placement, can allow you a more even flow across the whole tank. If placed under the water level, it will create a current down to your plants to avoid dead spots. If you face the bar down for more current to the plants, then surface agitation is reduced to nothing. 

 

Normal outlet gives you more surface agitation = more oxygen exchange at the surface. Possibly also less surface scum.

It moves the water in a circular pattern but only near the surface, but you can get dead spots in the tank.

 

Ideally, you'd want a bit of both.

 

I use the spraybar, but drill extra holes in it.  I drill new holes, that when installed, the original holes will point down into the tank to create water flow to the plants. And the new holes will point up, so the surface of the water is agitated and reduces surface scum while increasing oxygen exchange.

The spraybar is positioned, just under the surface of the water in the tank. Hopefully you can visualise what I'd describing here. 

 

Edit - here is my super excellent drawing skills for you to visualise the additional holes on the spraybar.

 

post-599-0-01988400-1423972209_thumb.jpg

Edited by jayc
  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • beanbag
      Update to say that after a few gravel vacs, front wall scrub, moss / floating plant trim, that the condition seems to have improved.  My current theory is that it is due to waste / debris management, where "stuff" like that brown mulm accumulates in the substrate and behind the HMF filters.  Maybe some tanks can somehow deal with it, but mine can't.  Also another experienced shrimper suggested that maybe those "shell bugs" don't just live on the shrimps but also in this debris.  Maybe this is the reason some tanks fail due to "old tank syndrome" where all they need is a good gravel vac? Also, I am guessing that plant trim helps too because now more of the nutrients and light go into growing algae instead of more plants? Well anyway for this tank I will try weekly water change and monthly gravel vac / plant trim.  For my next tank, I'm thinking of something like an under-gravel system where this mulm can fall down and I vac it out.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Good to have an update and good to hear you are getting shrimplets, so hopefully your colony will continue and you may not get to the point where you have to cull some to stop over population. These type of shrimp only live 12 - 18 months so the adult deaths may be natural? If you have the time I would do weekly 25% water changes, adding the new water via a drip system and do some vacuuming clean of the substrate each week, even if only a different bit each week! See if that helps in a few months and if it does then stick with that regime? It should help reduce any build-ups that may be occuring!
    • beanbag
      Hello again, much belated update: The tank still has "cycles" of 1-2 month "good streaks" where everybody seems to be doing well, and then a bad streak where the short antenna problem shows up again, and a shrimp dies once every few days.  I am not sure what causes things to go bad, but usually over the course of a few days I will start to see more shrimp quietly standing on the HMF filter, and so I know something is wrong.  Since I am not "doing anything" besides the regular 1-2 week water changes, I just assume that something bad is building up.  Here's a list of things that I've tried that are supposed to be "can't hurt" but didn't prevent the problem either: Dose every other day with Shrimp Fit (very small dose, and the shrimp seem to like it) Sotching Oxydator Seachem Purigen to keep the nitrates lower Keeping the pH below 5.5 with peat Things that I don't do often, so could possibly "reset" the tank back to a good streak, are gravel vac and plant trim, so maybe time to try those again. One other problem I used to have was that sometimes a shrimp would suddenly stop eating with a full or partially full digestive tract that doesn't clear out, and then the shrimp will die within a few days.  I suspected it was one of the foods in my rotation - Shrimp Nature Infection, which contains a bunch of herbal plant things.  I've had this in my food rotation for a few years now and generally didn't seem to cause problems, but I removed it from the rotation anyway.  I don't have a lot of adult Golden Bees at this point so I can't really tell if it worked or not. Overall the tank is not too bad - during the good streaks occasionally a shrimp will get berried and hatch babies with a 33-50% survival rate.  So while there are fewer adults now, there are also a bunch of babies roaming around.  I guess this tank will stagger on, but I really do need to take the time to start up a new tank.  (or figure out the problem)
    • jayc
      If that is the offspring, then the parents are unlikely to be PRL. I tend to agree with you. There are very few PRLs in Australia. And any that claim to be needs to show proof. PRL genes have to start as PRL. CRS that breed true after x generations doesn't turn it into a PRL. Neither can a Taiwan bee shrimp turn into a PRL despite how ever many generations. I've never seen a PRL with that sort of red colour. I have on Red Wines and Red Shadows - Taiwan bee shrimps. So somewhere down the line one of your shrimp might have been mixed with Taiwan bees and is no longer PRL. It just tanks one shrimp to mess up the genes of a whole colony. 
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Sorry, missed this one somehow! The PRL look fantastic and the odd ones look part PRL and part Red wine/Red shadow in the colour. They are still very beautiful but ideally should be seperated to help keep the PRL clean if you can do that.  Nice clear photos!
×
×
  • Create New...