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    • Crabby
      By Crabby
      Hey everyone,
      I was recently (meaning today) given the opportunity to set up a breeding tank for some native inverts (or some harder to breed fish I guess, but I want to go for shrimp) in a fishroom I help out in. I've been trying to decide what native shrimp I want to try breeding, but then I remembered that it's not as simple as exotics. Can I get some input from the 'experts' (@Grubs, @NoGi, @Baccus, @fishmosy, @jayc of course, I know most of you aren't very active anymore, but I would appreciate your help if you see this message) on what native invert you guys think is easiest to breed (for a semi-noob who hasn't kept natives before). I can set it up as brackish I think, we have an archer fish tank there and are setting up a saltwater as well so should have access to those tools and materials.  
      Cheers!
    • kerkc
      By kerkc
      I've had these snails in my tank for over a year and I don't know what kind they are. They're incredibly hardy and unknowingly got them attached to some plants I got at petsmart. If anyone can ID them please help me! I live these guys and they're the only snails that have survived living with my goldfish.

    • sdlTBfanUK
      By sdlTBfanUK
      It is probably too early to start this but as I have no idea really what I am doing I thought it a good idea to maybe get others thoughts/ideas from the beginning?
      The aim is to find out if I can reduce the life of the 'buffering' of soil substrates for anyone wanting to use soil substrate with cherry shrimps which do better at higher PH than buffering substrates run, until they are exhausted, and before they get shrimps in the tank - that can't be many people I know???
      I set up a betta tank mid March and the buffering with the JBL substrate stopped about 4 months later., though you may be able to knock off a month as I was only doing part (25%) water changes?  Obviously no one wants to wait that long so I am just trying this experiment as I have 2L of shrimp king soil left over anyway. that I won't use!
      At the moment I have put 5L dechlorinated tap water in a bucket with 1L of substrate. The tap water is PH7.5 (KH3, TDS 154) and I am planning to do 50% water changes twice a week until the PH gets back to the 7.5 at which point I can assume it is exhausted? I will then try the same experiment using PH+ to see if that will speed up the process, but I haven't ordered that just yet?
      Any suggestions, am I doing it correctly, does it even make any sense?
      So this should give me an idea of how long it will take to stop buffering just using tap water but doing twice weekly 50% water changes, and then whether using PH+ would speed it up notably?
      This is just to get an idea, and different soil substrates will probably be different so I am not really looking for a definite answer as to the time length etc, more an idea as to whether either of these will work well for others in the future that want to keep cherry shrimp with the soil substrates. Having said that I have always kept cherry shrimp in lower than recommended PH (to start wirh) without a problem anyway?
      Simon 
       
    • Crabby
      By Crabby
      Hey guys, I’m really wanting to get freshwater crabs, and the only ones I’ve found are A. Lacustris and A. Laevis. I can only put them in a 110 L community tank for now, but may have another option in the future. The tank is stocked with a large school of ember tetras, some rocket killies, some endlers, some tangerine tiger shrimp, and a pair of apistogrammas. Rare aqua advised that A. Lacustris would likely be eaten by the apistos, so the obvious choice would be A. Laevis, because they’re larger... right? But I’m worried that they might predate upon my shrimp, so wanted to hear some advice and opinions from more people with experience keeping these crabs.
      Cheers!
    • Crabby
      By Crabby
      Hey guys, I’m really wanting to get freshwater crabs, and the only ones I’ve found are A. Lacustris and A. Laevis. I can only put them in a 110 L community tank for now, but may have another option in the future. The tank is stocked with a large school of ember tetras, some rocket killies, some endlers, some tangerine tiger shrimp, and a pair of apistogrammas. Rare aqua advised that A. Lacustris would likely be eaten by the apistos, so the obvious choice would be A. Laevis, because they’re larger... right? But I’m worried that they might predate upon my shrimp, so wanted to hear some advice and opinions from more people with experience keeping these crabs.
      Cheers!
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  • Posts

    • Chiquarius
      Hello, I’ve recently decided to pivot my Neocaridina aquarium to supporting crystal or bee shrimp; even if it means the neos will be evicted if things don’t go well for them. I don’t want to pay a lot for substrate, nor do I want to do a substrate change or just dump a lot of new substrate in. I do realize I need an active substrate to maintain tank stability as I continue lowering the KH for the bees/crystals. I recently set up a shrimp-safe canister filter to keep the water clean enough for bees/crystals. I had a clever idea. I was going to purchase Akadama and put a significant amount as a substrate at the end of my filter media stack. This way all filtered water will run through the active substrate and hopefully have it’s desired effect on the water conditions. Has anybody heard of putting active substrate in the filtering media?
    • Steensj2004
      Question from a fellow aquarium friend, that I couldn’t answer:   Is Chitinolytic disease treatable with Fishmox( amoxicillin)? He asked me today why I hadn’t tried it, and I said I hadn’t considered it.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Have you even seen a berried shrimp as they may not be mature enough, or as you say they may need brackish water for a larvae stage? I had a hydra problem and used AquaSL Z-1 and it worked so it would be worth trying that if you can get it. It is a natural product so didn't harm anything and you just treat it the once. I did have to do a second treatment but it is easy enough and it is supposed to also work on Planaria! Simon
    • Ludwiggg17
      Hi there Simon Im terribly sorry for this very late reply but yeah i have bought my molly 2 friends for her to be distracted with. The natives are surely getting better cause im starting to notice that some of them are developing these white stripes on their back. But ive had a problem because ive had few to no juvies in the whole time i caught them. I dont know if these kind of shrimp need brackish water or they may simply just be eaten by the molly. Oh and by the way i have this really really annoying planaria infestation in the cull tank which could be an explanation to the lack of juvies but ive no comprehensive evidence of their absence.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      You're doing fine so carry on as you are until you feel the cycle is done. My normal schedule is 10%water change every week however I don't think you need to do any while the cycle is going on until/unless the nitrates or ammonia get too high, or the PH gets too low. The lower the Ph the slower the bacteria reproduce! As you only have 2 shrimps they won't be messing the water enough anyway at this stage, I hope they are still doing well? Can you take a lower resolution photo, or reduce the photo size on a computer? If you want to email it to me I can reduce it for you lavissimon@gmail.com - I had to do it often in the past.. Simon
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