Jump to content

Bucephalandra, who's got what.


Recommended Posts

my first one (a tissue cultured brownie “ghostâ€) is in the mail as I type and I’m super keen to see how it goes! ill post a pic when it comes, and as it grows.


Call me nosy but I’m keen to see what different buce's people have in their collection And how their keeping them if they have special propagation tanks for them. Growth rates of differnt  ones, lighting, co2, ferts  and any other information you wish to divulge. Or just a list and pics for ogling will be fine    


I get the feeling there is some kind of secret buce society that is very hush hush about their collection haha


But they have been around for a while now and the prices are starting to become more realistic ( for the now common ones) making them more attainable for the lower budget enthusiasts, like myself.  


Edited by buck
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I HAD a couple. They melted in the heat last summer.


So that's my tip. 


I had them in my amazonian fish tank, cause that's where most of my aquarium plants are. That tank gets CO2, ferts and high lights.

But it's also kept warm. A couple of 30+ days last summer, and the tank reaching 29+ Deg C, had caused them to melt and die off.


Keep them in with your shrimps in a 23-24 deg C tank.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah from what I’ve read they like cool water with good flow, people have them in all kinds of conditions and are having "success" but some are slower growers then others. So I was hoping people could share there exp with quick growers and slow growers and how they improved the growth rates.


 I should probably collect the tips and make some kind of information chart on them, based on the skf members experiences with them. That way we all have a quick reference  guide.


I guess a price list like we have for shrimp wouldn’t hurt either.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a few now. Keep them in with my CRS, no CO2, try to keep temp down for the shrimp. pH has been 5.5 - 6.0. Only ever lost one buce, to be honest I still have no idea what happened. Just rotted away from the inside out. Possibly the rhizome was damaged during transport and bacteria got in.

Definitely one tip that I have seen evidence to support is that the buces do alot better growing in soil than on rocks. I think they look better on rocks, so now ai stick them onto small rocks <1cm high so they can drop their roots into the soil.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rhizomes need to be above the substrate and not buried. Very important. Like Anubias.

They grow faster with medium light. High light can be used but they don't seem to grow any faster with higher levels of light. It just increases the chances of algae growth.

So medium light is the best compromise.


Buces love CO2 and will grow faster with CO2. Excel (or equivalent) can be used but it wont be as fast. Note: Both CO2 and Excel isn't recommended 100% in shrimp tanks.


Ferts as per all rhizome plants. They take ferts mostly from the water column, and only a little through the roots, if you have the roots in the substrate (note the first tip: rhizome above substrate). So you need sufficient N, P and K as your major fert elements in the water column. Grow them partially in the substrate for fastest growth, so they take ferts from the water as well as from the substrate.


Once they start growing larger, you can propogate them by cutting the rhizomes, like anubias, ensuring you have leaves, rhizome and roots on each cutting.


They like cooler temps, as mentioned. With flowing water, to "catch" more ferts in the water column.


The buces I had are very sensitive to changing water conditions. So transplanting them, or setting them up in a brand new tank will shock them and you could loose a few leaves to melting. So avoid changing from submersed to emersed growth if possible. Med to High CO2 during these changing conditions will help heaps to avoid the melt.


So you could say that some, if not most, of these requirements are not shrimp friendly, so a dedicated plant tank to condition and strengthen them before they are introduced into your shrimp tank and their permanent home will be a good idea without stressing out your shrimps just so you can get the buces established.


Once they are in a permanent tank, you can reduce CO2 to almost none, zero ferts except for the shrimps and lights can be reduced to low levels - a low tech tank basically. You might find that high CO2 will produce more growth in leaves and stems, but in low lights, the buces produce more flowers.


Oh yeah, you can attach them to wood or rock with thread or even superglue. 

And CO2 isn't necessary, only if you want it to grow faster.

Edited by jayc
  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now thats what im talking about! cheers man thats a really solid wright up :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i got my first one today, a trade for some plants i donated a while back for a IAPLC scape.


not sure what species it is, ill get a pic up soon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      Welcome fellow UK shrimp keeper! I would think it would be better to remove the shrimp into the quarantine tank and keep them there whilst you treat the fish in the main tank and once you finish treating the tank and fish do a complete water change (maybe 2 a week apart for safety) before returning the shrimps. That would seem the best option though obviously the shrimp would need to be in the separate tank for weeks. I'm not aware of any medications available for ICH that won't kill shriimp and/or snails. With neocaridina they probably will just about survive 30 degrees but you are pushing it close to the limit! I don't believe ich affects shrimps.
    • ferret-confirmed
      Re-posting here from The Shrimp Spot forum as I need help. Help, 40 litre tank has a ich (ichthyophtyirius multifiliis) / white spot outbreak. We've been able to separate the few surviving neon tetra into an emergency quarantine tank, with appropriate medicine for the fish. We had done this as we had noticed the issue practically too late as we miss identified the white spots as cotton mouth (which the tetra also have). We luckily quarantined the fish from the tank as  the ich reached its second stage as most have matured and abandoned the fish. This has become an issue as even if the neon tetra do not survive the treatment, I cannot re-add them to the tank and I don't want to keep the tank's environment full of parasites. Thankfully ich seem to not be able to effect the shrimp but the medicine we have for them is toxic to the shrimp and the plants in the tank, hence the separating of the neon tetra. I was wondering if there was anything I can do to the tank while the shrimp are still in the tank, as removing them isn't a viable option. We've been trying to get the temp of the tank to 30C and leaving it at that temp for an hour, however the tank's heater is verry slow and doesn't seem to be going up past 27C. From what I've searched 30C should kill of the ich without irritating the bloody mary shrimp too much (too many websites vary their recommended temp, so I wouldn't keep it above 28C long if we were able to get it that high) If anyone knows if there are any ich treatments or methods of killing ich that are safe for invertebrates and potentially plants I would love if they could suggest one.
    • Moul1974
      For beginners and smaller tanks, I recommend glass aquariums because of their affordability and scratch resistance. For larger, more advanced aquariums, we recommend acrylic because it's lighter and easier to repair than glass.
    • becky
      Hooray! I was hoping it was molt but he hasnt progressed at all in about a week. Thank you guys so much for your help again. Ill keep an eye out. 
    • jayc
      It looks like the shrimp is about to moult.  I don't keep Ghost shrimp, so I'm not too familiar with how they look when going into a moult. But the white band along each joint is common in other shrimp when they start to moult.
  • Create New...