Jump to content

Fluval Ebi Nano Shrimp habitat


Farma

Recommended Posts

does any of you guys use this set up? and is it fine strait out of the box or should i look at doing up the filters or lighting etc? i have a few small tanks here i was planning to set up but as this is my first go at shrimp i figured im possibly better off with the whole kit? or should i look at setting up my own system?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

does any of you guys use this set up? and is it fine strait out of the box or should i look at doing up the filters or lighting etc? i have a few small tanks here i was planning to set up but as this is my first go at shrimp i figured im possibly better off with the whole kit? or should i look at setting up my own system?

Having been down a similar route' date=' I'd say no. Get a basic cube tank around 60-100L to start with. Setting up following to these instructions [url']http://www.shrimpkeeping.com/basics.html

I love my nano tank but it's seriously challenging. If I had my time again, I'd go CADE or ADA 4 footer setup ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 footer eh! i think i need to upgrade a few other tanks before i do a 4ft shrimp tank, my other animals would spew if i done that to them lol, i have a 60cm cube here i might have a go at first and when i move the snakes into a 6ft tank the shrimp can take their 3ft one, so basically im looking at a good strong light, external filter, and some quality substrate? do you buy attachments to cover the filter inlet? that seems to be where all the shrimp go in my other tanks or do i just make something like a fine cloth cover?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having been down a similar route' date=' I'd say no. Get a basic cube tank around 60-100L to start with. Setting up following to these instructions [url']http://www.shrimpkeeping.com/basics.html

I love my nano tank but it's seriously challenging. If I had my time again, I'd go CADE or ADA 4 footer setup ;)

haha, time you sell the edge and get an ADA 120p :p

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 footer eh! i think i need to upgrade a few other tanks before i do a 4ft shrimp tank' date=' my other animals would spew if i done that to them lol, i have a 60cm cube here i might have a go at first and when i move the snakes into a 6ft tank the shrimp can take their 3ft one, so basically im looking at a good strong light, external filter, and some quality substrate? do you buy attachments to cover the filter inlet? that seems to be where all the shrimp go in my other tanks or do i just make something like a fine cloth cover?[/quote']

Eheim 2213 might be a bit strong but the flow could be directed at the top, otherwise you can get a small Eden 501 which is good too. Intake pipes can be covered with pre-sponge like the ones on Fluval Edge, just search for those. Substrate is really trick as I've only used benibachi, but see how your tap water parameter is first or if you'd go RO water. I'm not expert in lights, so best that others help here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Noneed to slow the flow on the 2213. It is very slow as it is. I can barely feel it a few inches away from the outflow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Noneed to slow the flow on the 2213. It is very slow as it is. I can barely feel it a few inches away from the outflow.

Good to know, I don't want a strong flow in my nano tank :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats a bad thing in my case. I actually want 2-3x more flow since i want to hook up a inline heater which will reduce it to a dribble out the lily pipe :p

And remember, my nano tank is half the size of yours ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Noneed to slow the flow on the 2213. It is very slow as it is. I can barely feel it a few inches away from the outflow.

then u might need to clean out your filter/pipes (the pipes are the main problem in eheims, not the canister itself). a 2213 should produce enough flow to blast through a 2ft tank with ease if directed through a single outflow.

the eden 501 is better, or if u can get ur hands on a 2211.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
then u might need to clean out your filter/pipes (the pipes are the main problem in eheims' date=' not the canister itself). a 2213 should produce enough flow to blast through a 2ft tank with ease if directed through a single outflow.

the eden 501 is better, or if u can get ur hands on a 2211.[/quote']

ah the elusive 2211, did these actually go out of production as i have been told? if they did it's a shame as eheim was in the nano/shrimp tank game then bailed just as it started to take off!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hahahah i have 2 of these :D in perfect condition.. WITH original bases. muahahhahahha

they indeed did go out of production but they are the PERFECT eheim canister for 1ft cubes.

the eden501 isnt a bad alternative

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • beanbag
      Update to say that after a few gravel vacs, front wall scrub, moss / floating plant trim, that the condition seems to have improved.  My current theory is that it is due to waste / debris management, where "stuff" like that brown mulm accumulates in the substrate and behind the HMF filters.  Maybe some tanks can somehow deal with it, but mine can't.  Also another experienced shrimper suggested that maybe those "shell bugs" don't just live on the shrimps but also in this debris.  Maybe this is the reason some tanks fail due to "old tank syndrome" where all they need is a good gravel vac? Also, I am guessing that plant trim helps too because now more of the nutrients and light go into growing algae instead of more plants? Well anyway for this tank I will try weekly water change and monthly gravel vac / plant trim.  For my next tank, I'm thinking of something like an under-gravel system where this mulm can fall down and I vac it out.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Good to have an update and good to hear you are getting shrimplets, so hopefully your colony will continue and you may not get to the point where you have to cull some to stop over population. These type of shrimp only live 12 - 18 months so the adult deaths may be natural? If you have the time I would do weekly 25% water changes, adding the new water via a drip system and do some vacuuming clean of the substrate each week, even if only a different bit each week! See if that helps in a few months and if it does then stick with that regime? It should help reduce any build-ups that may be occuring!
    • beanbag
      Hello again, much belated update: The tank still has "cycles" of 1-2 month "good streaks" where everybody seems to be doing well, and then a bad streak where the short antenna problem shows up again, and a shrimp dies once every few days.  I am not sure what causes things to go bad, but usually over the course of a few days I will start to see more shrimp quietly standing on the HMF filter, and so I know something is wrong.  Since I am not "doing anything" besides the regular 1-2 week water changes, I just assume that something bad is building up.  Here's a list of things that I've tried that are supposed to be "can't hurt" but didn't prevent the problem either: Dose every other day with Shrimp Fit (very small dose, and the shrimp seem to like it) Sotching Oxydator Seachem Purigen to keep the nitrates lower Keeping the pH below 5.5 with peat Things that I don't do often, so could possibly "reset" the tank back to a good streak, are gravel vac and plant trim, so maybe time to try those again. One other problem I used to have was that sometimes a shrimp would suddenly stop eating with a full or partially full digestive tract that doesn't clear out, and then the shrimp will die within a few days.  I suspected it was one of the foods in my rotation - Shrimp Nature Infection, which contains a bunch of herbal plant things.  I've had this in my food rotation for a few years now and generally didn't seem to cause problems, but I removed it from the rotation anyway.  I don't have a lot of adult Golden Bees at this point so I can't really tell if it worked or not. Overall the tank is not too bad - during the good streaks occasionally a shrimp will get berried and hatch babies with a 33-50% survival rate.  So while there are fewer adults now, there are also a bunch of babies roaming around.  I guess this tank will stagger on, but I really do need to take the time to start up a new tank.  (or figure out the problem)
    • jayc
      If that is the offspring, then the parents are unlikely to be PRL. I tend to agree with you. There are very few PRLs in Australia. And any that claim to be needs to show proof. PRL genes have to start as PRL. CRS that breed true after x generations doesn't turn it into a PRL. Neither can a Taiwan bee shrimp turn into a PRL despite how ever many generations. I've never seen a PRL with that sort of red colour. I have on Red Wines and Red Shadows - Taiwan bee shrimps. So somewhere down the line one of your shrimp might have been mixed with Taiwan bees and is no longer PRL. It just tanks one shrimp to mess up the genes of a whole colony. 
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Sorry, missed this one somehow! The PRL look fantastic and the odd ones look part PRL and part Red wine/Red shadow in the colour. They are still very beautiful but ideally should be seperated to help keep the PRL clean if you can do that.  Nice clear photos!
×
×
  • Create New...