DIY Inline Heater using Eheim Jager Heaters

[Vlad]

I mentioned I have a DIY inline heater in my journal and JayC asked for instructions so I am doing one here for anyone interested. The components are mostly available from Bunnings except for the Heyco cord grip which is available from NPA here in Adelaide. NPA is the sole importer and distributor of Heyco products in Australia.

The components required from Bunnings are:

• 1x 1mx32mm Holman Press Pipe (the shortest length is 1m unless you can get an offcut) and is in the plumbing section (not in the picture).
• 2x 32mmx1.25" valve sockets. These slot over the press pipe to enable the threaded fitting to join onto (white in the picture) and is available in the plumbing section.
• 3x 1.25"x1" threaded bushing. One is for the Heyco to screw in and the other two are for the barbed directors. Again these are available in the plumbing section.
• 1x 1.25" elbow. Plumbing section. Irrigation section only has up to 1" ones, not 1.25".
• 1x 1.25" tee. Plumbing section. Irrigation section only has up to 1" ones, not 1.25".
• 2x 1" threaded x 19mm barbed directors (for the 16x22mm hoses). Available in irrigation section. You can use the 1" threaded x 15mm barbed directors for the 12/16mm hoses.
• High pressure cement glue.
• PVC primer (optional).
• Pink premium plumbing tape
• 2x Stepless hose clamps with wing nuts

The component required from a plastics factory (like city plastics in Adelaide):

• 5mm thick clear acrylic rod (from plastics factories). It is a nicety to have but not really needed as you know if the heater is working or not via a thermometer.

The component required from an auto shop like Supercheap Auto:

• Permatex black silicone (available from most auto stores like Supercheap) and only required if doing the clear acrylic rod.

The component required from NPA:

• Heyco 8437 1" NTP cord grip. Even though it is NTP and not BSP threaded, as the thread length is less than 0.5", the thread pitch is very close and it screws into the threaded bushing without hassel. Available from NPA in Adelaide. I can purchase these and post them to interstate members if anyone wants them.

Assembly Process (all plumbing tapes are wrapped to at least 8 layers onto the threads):

• Wrap the plumbing tape onto the thread of one of the directors and then screw into one of the threaded bushings.
• Wrap the plumbing tape onto the thread of the above threaded bushing and then screw into one end of the elbow piece.
• Wrap the plumbing tape onto the thread of the remaining director and then screw into the second threaded bushing.
• Wrap the plumbing tape onto the thread of the above threaded bushing and then screw into the T of the tee piece.
• Wrap plumbing tape onto the thread of the third threaded bushing and then screw into one end of the tee piece.
• Wrap the plumbing tape onto the thread of one of the valve sockets and then screw into the remaining end of the elbow piece.
• Wrap the plumbing tape onto the thread of the remaining valve socket and then screw into the remaining end of the tee piece.
• Wrap the plumbing tape onto the thread of the Heyco cord grip and then screw into the bushing on the other end of the tee piece.
• Place all the assembled pieces flat on a table (as seen in the picture) with the heater next to it to determine the length of the press pipe to cut and then cut the pipe as square as possible and smooth off with a file. Make sure the tip of the heater does not reach into the elbow piece as otherwise incoming water will hit it on the side. Remember the PVC pipe slots into the valve socket so take that into account when measuring the required length.
• Optionally apply the PVC primer to the bonding surfaces of the press pipe and the valve sockets. I just lightly sanded mine.
• Apply the PVC cement to the inside of one of the valve socket and then to the outside of one end of the press pipe (about an inch will do) and then push the pipe into the socket and press and hold for the specified amount of time.
• Decide how you want to lay your heater (both inlet/outlet facing the same direction, opposite directions or at some other angle).
• Apply the PVC cement to the inside of the other valve socket and then to the outside of the other end of the press pipe (about an inch will do) and then push the pipe into the socket (at the angle that you want) and press and hold for the specified amount of time.
• Use electrical tape which is elastic to tape the whole thing from top the bottom to provide pressure and leave for at least 24 hours.
• Optionally, if doing the clear acrylic rod, determine where you want the clear window on the cord grip to be and then drill a hole slightly smaller than the acrylic rod onto the part of the cord grip with the red dot in the first picture and highlighted in the third picture. That collar happens to line up perfectly with the heater light of the Eheim Jager heaters.
• Cut the rod to 15mm length and then polish one end and roughen the other end and a bit of the side of the same end (this will disperse the light so it can be seen from all angles).
• Apply the PVC cement to the side of the rod (at the polished end) and push into the hole of the cord grip and make sure it does not protrude into the cavity inside the cord grip.
• Use a tooth pick and cottom wool bud to apply a small amount of the Permatex black silicone to the base of the rod where it meets with the cord grip. This adds an additional level of leak proofing and let it all set for at least 24 hours.
• Undo the top nut of the cord grip and slot into the heater and then insert the heater into the housing and tighthen the nut until it clicks several times. This is the ratchet clicking which prevents it from losening.
• Attach a garden hose to the inlet barb (where the elbow is) and use layers of tape etc to make sure it does not pop off.
• Tape up the outlet barb with layers of tape so it too does not pop off and then turn on the water slowly.
• Monitor for leaks. Most of the time, the leakes will occur where one did not apply enough plumbing tape and/or not evenly. When I tested my builds, the water pressure got so high that it popped off the taped up outlet and still no leaks. If a threaded part leaks, undo the part and remove the existing tape and reapply the tape, making sure it is evenly layered and at least 8 layers.
• Once you are satisfied that you have tested it enough and there is no leaks, turn off the canister filter and drain out the outlet hose.
• Cut the outlet hose where you want the heater installed and the attach the filter cut end to the bottom barb of the heater and clamp with the hose clamp.
• Attach the othe cut end of the hose to the top barb of the heater and clamp with the hose clamp.
• Turn on the canister filter and ensure there are no leaks and there are no more bubbles coming out of the outlet (may need to gently rotate the heater to remove all trapped air) and then turn on the heater.
• As always, monitor for leakage for the next week or so.

Picture of the parts:


Picture of the finished product:


Close up of the cord grip with the bit in red where you can drill the hole for the clear acrylic rod:


Pic showing it painted and with the heater fitted:


Close up of the seal of the cord grip with the clamping fingers and soft rubber seal on the inside:


Anyhow, I can make these for Adelaide members at cost plus a little bit for my time. Message me if you want it.

Cheers,
Vlad

Edited November 7, 2014 by Vlad

[jayc]

Thanks Vlad!

Now that's what a DIY guide should be like.

Shopping list, step by step instructions and pics.

[perplex]

nice, would like to see more pictures,

 

how does it not leak with the heater cable?

[Vlad]

First post updated with additional details at the end of step 9 and added final picture as well as a close up of the seal of the cord grip. The heater's control body remains outside the cord grip as does its power cable. The soft seal together with the clamping fingers form a water tight seal around the wand of the heater.

[Squiggle]

Fantastic stuff dude, love a good DIY!

[jayc]

Hey Vlad,

 

just clarifying these two points...

1x 1.25" elbow. Irrigation section only has up to 1" ones, not 1.25".
1x 1.25" tee. Irrigation section only has up to 1" ones, not 1.25".

 

What do you mean by the "Irrigation section only has up to 1" ones, not 1.25" ?

Do you mean the 1.25" sizes of these items are elsewhere like in the plumbing section?

Edited November 6, 2014 by jayc

[Vlad]

Hey Vlad,

 

just clarifying these two points...

1x 1.25" elbow. Irrigation section only has up to 1" ones, not 1.25".

1x 1.25" tee. Irrigation section only has up to 1" ones, not 1.25".

 

What do you mean by the "Irrigation section only has up to 1" ones, not 1.25" ?

Do you mean the 1.25" sizes of these items are elsewhere like in the plumbing section?

 

Sorry, first post corrected. I forgot to add that they are available in the plumbing section.

    In the aisle that has the plumbing fittings, one end will be all the white Holman press pipe fittings like bushings, socket valves, elbows, tees etc. At the other end of the same aisle in the plumbing section are the black Philmac fittings like the larger tees, elbows etc.

Edited November 7, 2014 by Vlad

[jayc]

Bunnings stock these Philmac 25mm x 1 Inch Male Pipe End Connectors

http://www.bunnings.com.au/philmac-25mm-x-1-inch-male-pipe-end-connector_p4813787

 

More info here ... 

 

I wonder if this could be a replacement for the Heyco cord grip?

That way bunnings could be your one stop shop for everything.

Edited November 7, 2014 by jayc

[Vlad]

Most likely not. The threading is only 1" which means its internal diameter won't be big enough for the heater wand. The Heyco cord grip has an internal diameter that is slightly bigger than 1".

 

Anyhow, the Heyco cord grip costs the same as the Philmac 25mmx1" Male Pipe End Connector and won't cost too much with postage, especially with group buys. It is a proven water tight device and has been used by lots of people on Aquarium Life and Planted Tank and elsewhere.

Edited November 7, 2014 by Vlad

[jayc]

I'm glad you have already done the trial and error.

Edited November 7, 2014 by jayc

[petfish]

made and installed these on 3 system's and a cannister, ages ago, they work very well, but make sure you turn the heater off about 5 min. before you turn the sump pump off, if you are using them on a cannister this won't apply

[jayc]

 if you are using them on a cannister this won't apply

 

Why wouldn't it apply to a canister?

 

If you turn the canister off (for maintenance) and there is no flow to the heater, wouldn't that be just as bad as turning off the sump pump?

 

Maybe I'm not getting the issue with turning off the sump pump and what it does IF you don't turn off the heater.

 

The ehiem jager has Dry-running protection, and it shouldn't over heat if there is no water.

Edited November 7, 2014 by jayc

[petfish]

in a sump setup the heater chamber looses all water, in a cannister setup the water stays in the chamber, may have dry run protection, but they get b----y hot before they shut off, why risk it,

[jayc]

Gotcha.