Jump to content

my set up


andy-Eco-tank
 Share

Recommended Posts

Just like to introduce myself i'm Andrew and i'm in NTH QLD.

 

i'v had tanks for sometimes now but am only running one at this time that i have built from the ground up over the last two years it's a 1200x450x450 tank on a DIY stand.

happy to answer any questions you may have and enjoy the photos.

 

Stand i made

post-963-0-86649300-1403225261_thumb.jpg

post-963-0-00667800-1403225287_thumb.jpg

post-963-0-44537800-1403225351_thumb.jpg

 

drilled and fitted 3x 25mil bulk heads

post-963-0-03508900-1403225322_thumb.jpg

 

DIY weir made from acrylic

post-963-0-72811500-1403225401_thumb.jpg

 

my 2ft sump running k1 Kaldnes media

post-963-0-10798000-1403225423_thumb.jpg

 

co2 set up 

post-963-0-79351100-1403225305_thumb.jpg

 

all set up with a 150A chiller as well.

post-963-0-72793500-1403226990_thumb.jpg

 

Thanks for having a look.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My plan for the tank is 150 Cardinal tetra's and a massive colony of red cherry shrimp.

post-963-0-89447500-1403230095_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My plan for the tank is 150 Cardinal tetra's and a massive colony of red cherry shrimp.

 

 

It's a bit of a risk mixing Cardinals with RCS.

Either the Cardinals will hunt and eat the cherries or the RCS will be in hiding constantly.

 

Nice 4footer btw.

Edited by jayc
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I no that I will have large losses of shrimp fry (fish will be fish)

but if it don't fit in there mouth they don't seem to care I have never lost any adult shrimp to my Cardinal Tetras.

Right now I don't have much of a hiding area for the fry I'm look for a new plant that will give them a safe place to grow and fit with the look I'm going for in the tank.

Right now the shrimp are the ones getting around the tank nicely and the Cardinal tetras are the ones hiding. Lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very very cool tank setup, love your work dude! :thumbsu:

Thank you squiggle

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi and welcome Andrew,

Nice job, looks great, maybe a heap of moss on bit's of d/wood for the cherry shrimplets to hide in would be good.

cheers Pete...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi and welcome Andrew,

Nice job, looks great, maybe a heap of moss on bit's of d/wood for the cherry shrimplets to hide in would be good.

cheers Pete...

Thanks petfish

I just got back form picking up some java moss from LFS.

Great minds think alike.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to SKF...nice tank. Lots of mosses and plants, and the cherry colony will hopefully maintain/grow...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sweet setup mate!! Lots of tank space for very happy fish and shrimp!

Thanks heaps for sharing the step by step pics too, always good seeing something come together!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you all for the welcome.

Now for a cherry shrimp related question what is the optimal temperature for them to breed?

My ph is 6.8

TDS IS 160

Temp is set at 23°C

Edited by andy-Eco-tank
Link to comment
Share on other sites

those parameters are pretty much what mine are, and my cherry's are breeding well, i am only new to shrimp keeping so can't say whether these conditions are exactly the best or not, but someone else will let you know the ideal condition's for cherry's.

                                         cheers Pete...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I only ask as I keep reading recommendations to keep the water round 26 to 27° for breeding then reading to keep them in temps 18 to 23° so I'm just a bit confused with witch one is right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I aim to keep my cherry and crystal tanks at 22degrees. Would not exceed 24-25 for prolonged periods personally!

Ph looks great at 6.8. I have mine around 6 but they are slow to breed, higher ph suits the cherries.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My tank with Cherries sits at 23 degrees.... They breed around the clock. I mean my girls saddle ,berry and 3 weeks later shrimplets and then it starts all over.

So 23 is fine. I don't think they are too fussy.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I must admit I'm a big fan of crypts for a bit of ground cover, the ex had a heap in his tank with shrimp (which I designed) and it went well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I must admit I'm a big fan of crypts for a bit of ground cover, the ex had a heap in his tank with shrimp (which I designed) and it went well.

I can only hope is fill's that back corner in nicely the shrimp will love it in there as they already do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  • Similar Content

    • Josh16622
      By Josh16622
      Has anyone successfully made a DIY remineralizer like Jay's one but for sulawesi? I'm interested to know, because if possible I too would want to make my own, but if nobody has experience with it, I'll get the Salty Shrimp mineral for sulawesi.
    • Shrimp>Wife
      By Shrimp>Wife
      Hi Everyone,
      I was inspired to make the stainless steel immersion tubes found in the following thread: 
      https://skfaquatics.com/forum/topic/9455-cooling-multiple-tanks/
      I made mine with the following materials
      - x metres of annealed seamless stainless steel tube grade 316. Outer Diameter 12.7mm, Wall Thickness 0.9mm, ASTM 269. I got mine from Midway Metals in Sydney for $5 per metre.
      - A hand bender, rated to bend thin walled stainless steel. Got one from ebay for $99.
      - A tube cutter, again make sure it will cut thin wall stainless steel. I got mine from ebay for $32.
      For 60cm tanks I recommend 3 metres of tubing
      For 30cm tanks I recommend 2 metres of tubing
      Your hand bender will have an inherent bend radius, using this you can calculate the length of tube that you will use up with each bend whether it be 90 degrees or 180 degrees and pretty much how much tube you will need depending on your design. 
      NOTES: I used 12.7mm tubing as you can then squeeze 12/16mm aquarium hosing on to it snugly (if you are paranoid use hose clamps as well). I also used 12.7mm OD tubing as its the maximum diameter you can get a hand bender for that is rated to bend stainless steel. Do not get thicker than 1.0mm walled stainless steel it will be a nightmare to bend. Make sure your stainless steel is annealed seamless tube this is specifically made for severe manipulation. This is for freshwater application only... the guys at midway said this would last 3 months in a saltwater tank lol. Good hand benders are each made for one specific diameter only, make sure you get the right one for your tube diameter.
      I am happy to post links to the ebay items if I'm allowed to.
      I'm pairing this with an Eheim 2213 and a Resun cl 200 chiller to chill 2 x 60cm tanks and ultimately 3 x 60cm, I'll update once this is done and give some feedback on the temp differences. I hope the info is useful.
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       

    • Zebra
      By Zebra
      Hello,
      So I made this little tank and stand a few weeks back to go in my shed.
      It gets way to hot in here to have a normal co2 cylinder and I don't have a spare one floating around anyway, but I have lots of bits and pieces,
      So I made this:
       
      The reactor, Filter, night time shut off and proper needle valve to ensure the co2 level is constant and never rises.

      A diy wooden diffuser I made producing very fine pollen style bubbles.

      The only thing I would add if I could is a pressure relief valve, you can buy cheap kits off eBay that have one of these and a gauge, but this system doesn't seem to need it.
      Im also using a recipe I adapted from mycology research utilising sugars with more complex carbohydrates to give a more stable long term reaction, I started this recipe on the 28th of dec and it's still going strong.
      I had to remove the built in check valve from the other side of my needle valve (cause it's made for high pressure) it prevented co2 running to the diffuser at start up, and caused pressure to build up. I just used a standard air line check valve that requires less pressure to open and it's all working fine again. Atleast now I know standard airline push fittings hold up under the pressure, literally. I have used proper co2 tubing throughout, it's probably not needed considering this is a "constant" system but I had it laying around.
      The the solenoid valve which runs my "night time shut off" operates a bit different to a standard pressurised co2 system.
      I designed my solenoid on a T to the main line, It opens at night just venting co2 into the air instead of running into the tank, this is so pressure doesn't build up and wreck the whole system. 
      My fav part is the diffuser TBH,
      I'm so fascinated by wooden diffusers.
      enjoy.
    • Zebra
      By Zebra
      This is the new and improved steriliser. 
      its basically just 40mm pvc pipe end cap with spacers made from 40mm pipe.
      2 wires connected to mesh close together in the water.
      Splits the H20 on a molecular level, pretty cool for how simple it is. 
      Normal copper wire will work but it will dissolve within a few minutes, ive just used stainless steel BBQ skewers, these also worked well to just hang the whole unit from the side of the tank, and the stainless steel mesh from a tea strainer.
      Then air line tubing to prevent the rods touching, and some heat shrink to hold it all together, 
      You just have to do tight connections like unless you have a SS welder, 
      ?
      I'm just using 12v DC so in theory I could easily add a fader to control the intensity of the steriliser just like the fancy ones.
      I might do an actually write up on it later or something. For now I'm getting this bad boy in my zeb tank.
      its working great, now how long should I have it on for? Haha
      I was thinking starting at 15min per hour. Lol yeah it's pretty damn ghetto.
      Cheers

    • CNgo2006
      By CNgo2006
      Pretty sure everyone knows how to silicone rings together so won't be a step by step tutorial
      What was used was:
      Aquarium safe silicone or superglue Ceramic rings (choose an inert one and one that has a nice hole size for the specific shrimp you are making it for) I chose Mr Aqua M size. It is inert and quite porous for extra surface area (never a bad thing). You may want to look at getting the L size if you are making for large adult shrimp. Stick like a shish kebab stick to clear any obstructions that the silicone may have caused on the inside of the rings. They look quite nice I reckon, with moss on them will look even better!

      For around $15 you can easily make 10+ pyramids, go crazy and make them as big/small as you want, giant levelled pyramids or single logs, up to you!

      in this hobby we like to save where possible, so making these are a great way to save!
×
×
  • Create New...