Mine is a DIY Chiller, as you know a peltier has a hot side and cold side, for the cold side to stay cold, the hot side must be kept cold and with a heatsink and fan to cool it down.
My DIY chiller has two sides and two water block.
blue aluminum block with tube leading to the outlet of the canister filter and back to the tank to chill the tank water.
copper block is to cool the hot side of the peltier, with copper block to the radiator/fan and a water pump looping.
The problem is the tube from the water pump came off, apparently the plastic from the pump started to melt and the tube came off and the looping side had no water, so the copper water block stayed hot all the time with heat transferred to the cold side of the peltier also heating the water.
since the copper takes time to cool down, most of the heat and the room hot temp had already heat the tank water to about 45 C.
Try testing it again and see what you get or to confirm that the previous were right, especially the higher Ph reading is all I can recommend!
If there is some explanation for the difference hopefully someone will reply and let you know, but I expect there won't actually be a difference if you do it again?
No that's not normal. But I don't know which tube in your loop had come off. Can you show us?
Yes that would have helped a bit, and at least give KMS more time to have found the issue by turning off the chiller.
As I understand, kms has a peltier style chiller, and a tube of the pump had come off, which meant that hot water from the hot side of the peltier flowed back into the tank. So if the chiller was on the same temp controller, it would have turned off the chiller at around 26degC. The tank might have got warmer in his room, but it would have been at a much slower rate, and certainly would not have reached 45degC.
I'm using the API master test kit with the dropper bottles. I was just very confused at how much more akaline the water was coming out of the filter compared to the water out in the open. I can't imagine how this fluctuating change in pH is going to be beneficial for my crs.
What type of test are you doing strip or drip?
I use drip tests and always ignore the first attempt as no matter how well I clean and keep the test set it is often way out of line. Las time first test was Ph8, second test Ph6. Sometimes first attempt looks ok so I have no idea what is going on?????
If you just tried once it may be worth testing again?