Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Squiggle

Why my BB's aren't blue?

Recommended Posts

Squiggle

Ok, so I want to find out why my BB have lost their blue. The system is about 700L & I add about a teaspoon of mineral powder every week or two to the sump & about the same of Epsom salts to the auto waterchange tank, the rest of my WP are below

PH - 5.7

GH - 4

KH - 0

Ca - 20ppm

TDS - 110

Nitrate - 0

Temp - 23

They are all breeding quite well & I have about 8 berried girls in the system at the moment & that's a combination of CRS, CBS, BB, mischlings. All the others are showing great colour just not the TB's :victorious:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2OFUS

My male bb lost his blue for awhile to mate

BUT I think it's a molting thing as my bb has coloured back up nicely he was dull for about 1month

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Squiggle

Yeah I don't think it's that dude, been this way for more than six months, she does get a bit of colour when berried but just a very very pale blue between a flower head & Mosura pattern & the shrimplets have less :(

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
shrimpstan

Maybe u could have a slightly higher Gh and TDS? Have u tried raising these over time?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Squiggle

I noticed she has a bit of colour this morning but this may be cause she's berried again, I'll try & raise the levels a bit & see what happens, cheers :victorious:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BlueBolts

+1, if you're observing the Ca:Mg ratio, then I'd boost you GH to 5. My TDS sits at 170-210, and have observe good colouration. Adding mineral powder is also a great way to ensure your water column has all the elements it needs to show their best colour :-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Squiggle

Thanks BB, I do add a tsp of mineral powder to the sump every week or two. I'll try to slowly raise the TDS about 10ppm a week or so & see what happens, in theory this should raise the GH as well. :encouragement:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
CNgo2006

But where are the pics squiggs?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Squiggle

This is with colour & I'll try get some tonight without, basically she goes almost completely white & the shrimplets are the same. :encouragement:

I've even got my own moon shots, hahaha :smiley_simmons:

image_zpse0f60847.jpg

image_zps9ef43323.jpg

image_zps5dd94ef8.jpg

image_zpscfe127bb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BlueBolts

I've just been thinking about other possibilities/issues causing your BB to loose its colour/intensity... Do you feed them boiled kale etc...I.e. calcium rich food ? Have attached the link Jaye posted of them...

http://www.shrimpkeepersforum.com/forum/showthread.php/4402-Calcium-rich-food-for-your-shrimp

Just did a 5 minutes research on boiling affects of calcium content in vegetables, and it appears the calcium, magnesium etc... content increases when boiled

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Squiggle

Hmmmmm, I don't boil anything, I only use dried leaves. Might have to get some kale, boil it & see how that goes, thanks BB :victorious:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BlueBolts

That'll be awesome, you may have solve a great mystery, as there's been much discussion of calcium absorption via diet and/or via the water column. IMHO, both as important, especially in achieving the optimal shell colour/density etc.

Boiling a high-oxalate food like spinach/kale can often reduce its oxalate content, resulting on calcium nourishment/concentration.....

Good thread Squiggles. Kale is usually purchased in a bunch... I would float them in boiling water for 24 hours, and do this over 2-3 days, to ensure any insecticides on the leaves are flushed away....then on the 3rd day, boil them for 10-15 minutes. Any extra kale can be rolled into a ball, and frozen....and on the next male feeding schedule, they can just be dropped into the tank frozen, and the shrimps will consume it as quickly. Ditto with any other leafy vegetable, like spinach etc...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Squiggle

Sweet BB, thanks for all the help & support. As Dr Karl always says "it's not the answer that gets the Nobel prize, it's the question!" :victorious:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
shrimpstan

Hey BB and squiggs.. when u guys mention adding mineral powder is that the benibachi mironection powder stuff or the salty shrimp? And is that on top of the re mineralising water at WC time?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
CNgo2006

The micronecton powder is the mineral powder from benibachi and from my tests it does raise the TDS

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
shrimpstan

yeah i just checked the link (thanks squigg) and it looks exactly the same as the one i have and its called mironection powder on my pack.. and i agree with Chi.. it does seem to raise TDS a bit.. although not as much as Chi's experience :p

has anyone else used this product without rise of TDS?

so is this powder used to enhance calcium levels?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Squiggle

Fair enough, It is not labeled as micronection on Deans site & I have never bothered reading the label. Also, I have never experienced a rise in TDS when I have added it to any of my shrimp tanks & I was testing morning & night for a while, I was experimenting with Montmorillonite & Bentonite clay's that I have access to & Benibachi mineral powder has a form of these clays in it. I believe the calcium bentonite & calcium montmorillonite is the preferred version & I'm still on the search for a good supply. :victorious:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BlueBolts

I use the benibachi mineral powder, and it doesn't raise TDS by much.... using the white spoon supplied (i.e. 2-3 pinches of powder) in 200mls, it ONLY raises TDS to 10ppm (from 0)....so over a volume of 40-60 litres, its equates to a negligible amount. Not sure about other mineral powders though ...

I use CaS04 to boost my calcium levels...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
shrimpstan

yep... just tested 1 spoon (little white one supplied) to 3L of re-mineralised RO and did not notice any rise in TDS.

thats a really good idea squiggle! :encouragement:

any results u noticed that u care to share?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Squiggle

Still on the early stages of experimentation, nothing of any significance to report, but if all goes well I will have a regular supply of excellent quality calcium montmorillonite & calcium bentonite similar to the quality of Shirakura clay rocks, exciting stuff. :victorious:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
shrimpstan

sounds great, count me in :) hope it all goes well!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Squiggle

All good, I just need to find someone who can run the samples through a spectrum analyzer, torface was going to do it for me but........well, everyone knows what happened there. :dejection:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
CNgo2006
yep... just tested 1 spoon (little white one supplied) to 3L of re-mineralised RO and did not notice any rise in TDS.

Stir it around and test gain in few hrs...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BlueBolts

Woke up this morning, and noticed in my "Mongrel/Cull Tank", this spectacular BB in her full vibrance.......she was condemned to this tank 3-4 weeks ago, as she had mediocre head colour, and only a bluish tinge body..... BUT look at her 2day !

null_zps53397228.jpg

How's your BB colouring up Squiggle ? Any improvement ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      Catappa leaves are Indian almond leaves, as you say. Biofilm gows on the leaf surface as well which the shrimp love to eat so it is worth getting some and I imagine they are readily available! Your tap water may be very good in your part of the world, it is probably less messed about with I imagine than most of the world. It sounds like you ae having great success so I recommend you carry on as is and don't use anything you aren't already using, especially  chemical wise at this stage. I think the 20% water change each week should slowly bring the PH/KH down to better parameters for caridina shrimp but if they have survived 2 weeks they are doing ok as they are and should be ok, just put the new water in very slowly, over many hours! Hopefully this will counter anything that may be raising the PH/KH and it may fluctuate over the week but it will be so slow it won't harm the shrimp whilst keeping those figures from raising too high! We may need to revisit it later if shrimp start dying, but as it is doing so well don't try and change things too much or unnecessarily and the water changes should reduce the figures slowly and stop any extremes of parameters over times. The caridina are much more difficult to keep than the neocaridina but I understand wanting to keep the caridina. The setup you have would ideally suit neocaridina better but hopefully this will work out long term for the caridina with minimal extra effort! Simon
    • Ricky ng
      Hey Simon, Thanks a lot to stop by and for all the useful information that you gave such a blessing to have you in this forum. I put 3 pine cone first to see how it goes lol i dont know if i can find that leaves but i think i can get the catappa leaves i think they all just the same.. my question is that since i also have purigen in my filter i believe it will absorb all the tannin so i dont know if the leaves still can reduce the ph.. what about seachem acid buffer or ADA soft water? Well the neos want keep breeding black bee and red bee also thriving for quite some time when i usr tap water plus seachem prime.. low grade prl and tiger fancy low grade has been there for just a month maybe but bb and panda just 2 weeks.. but i will try to do your suggestion 20% RO mineralize water changes..  Mosquito i think is a great idea mate.. and thanks a lot again for all the information that you gave.. may GOD bless you mate..
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Wow, what a great tank you have there! Usually a soil substrate s used with Caridina shrimp as that buffers the PH to ideal for te shrimp, but clearly you aren't going to re-do the tank at this stage. Adding Indian almond leaves can help the PH a little and you can put those at the back behind the scaping so they don't affect the look. RO water will have a Lower PH (usually 6 or lower) and a KH of 0 so water changes can bring them down so, I would maybe do 20% RO (mineralised) water change a week to start off and see where that gets you in a month - add new water very gradually, a dripper is best! The dragon stone may be increasing the PH/KH but if the 20% water change works and is manageable then maybe continue with that indefinitely - obviously you aren't going to remove the stone, that would be madness in such a beautiful setup?  If the shrimps are suriving then I wouldn't worry too much and I assume you acclimated them well. How long have the shrimp been in the tank? With RO water you will need to add minerals which would be GH+ for the caridina shrimps. Your KH is a bit high for Caridina normally so don't use GH/KH+ as that will also affect the KH. Tap water rarely works with caridina! As for fish, I think it would be risky with Harlequin rasbora (they grow quite big for a shrimp tank), especially if the shrimp start breeding, but chilli/mosquito/dwarf spotted fasbora should be fine as they are no bigger than an adult shrimp. I keep neon tetra and ember tetra with some red cherry shrimp but it is very densely planted so shrimps can (and do) hide a lot but I still expect the fish must get SOME baby shrimps? Even the micro rasbora may eat some new born shrimp of coarse. The biggest pointer though is if it is working don't try to fix it, I had caridina in PH the same as yours and they were fine even though it's not perfect for them! It can cause more problems changing things than it solves as many have found out........... just do as you are doing with the water changes of 20% RO mineralised for a month,add some Indian almond leaves and maybe some alder cones, and see where your parameters have got too! If the shrimp die then it may be worth going further but I wouldn't at this stage as it seems to be going so well. Again, wow what a tank, I am so jealous! Simon
    • Ricky ng
      I want to move to a caridina scape.. I've already have a quite mature 60p aquascape with mosses and anubias low tech but i use co2 only 1 bps or lower, dragon stone, inert substrate (la plata and jbl sansibar), water changes weekly and adding 1ml of Seachem Nitrogen and 1ml of Seachem Phospate, and adding a bit of ADA Mineral a day after, ADA Green brighty K every 2 day, previously i use tap water since i want to setup taiwan bee scape i already water change 50% of RO water.. Tds still 140-150, ph 7-7.5, kh 4, GH dont know i bought a broken one, i still try hard to lower down my ph but still can not.. so far i already tried to adding blue bolt, panda shrimp one each to test everyone is surviving so far.. what should i do next to stabilize the lower ph as well? And is there any fish recommended to keep with caridina? Harlequin rasbora?
    • jayc
      What plants are you going to keep in the tank? Low light mosses and slow growing anubias? then yes, that will be enough.   Good idea. Best to be safe.
×
×
  • Create New...