Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Shelly_shells

Internal parasite clear not working

Recommended Posts

Squiggle

Ok, if the standard four tests(ph, ammonia, nitrite & nitrate) are all normal then we have to explore the next most common ones, GH is you waters General Hardness & is the amount of calcium & magnesium in your water, your shrimp need these to grow & moult. KH is the waters Carbonate Hardness & is the amount of carbonate & bicarbonate anions in the water, this help buff your water & causes the ph to stay stable at alkaline levels. TDS is the Total Dissolved Solids in your water, the amount of organic & inorganic substances contained in a liquid in different suspended forms. I have a feeling that because you are using tap water your KH & TDS will be quite high & may be the problem. :dejection:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc
Using tap water with stress coat. Test kit just has ph' date=' ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Api. Lost two cherry's. my berried female is looking like she's on the way out too. So disappointed with myself, has obviously been something I've done to make it this way. If I knew how to fix it I would. I just don't know what to do.[/quote']

How long have you had this tank?

Clearly the issue developed only after the treatment. How many water changes and at what % have you done since the treatment?

Do a 20% water change every two days maybe to reduce what ever is in the water.

As for API Stress Coat, it's not the best product out there for shrimp nor is it particularly economical as a water conditioner.

Why?

http://www.apifishcare.com/pdf/Stress_Coat_NG.pdf

Section 3 - COMPOSITION / INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTSNAME %

Aloes, extract 1-10%

non hazardous ingredients, proprietary 1-10%

water >80%

It's mostly water.

The dechlorinising ingredients only make up 10% of the total bottle.

And the other 10% is aloe extract.

As per their own description - "STRESS COAT, with the healing power of Aloe Vera, is scientifically proven to reduce fish stress and heal damaged tissue. It forms a synthetic slime coating and replaces the natural secretion of slime that is interrupted by handling, shipping, fish fighting, or other forms of stress. Helps reduce susceptibility to disease and infection. Helps heal torn fins and skin wounds. Reduces electrolyte loss."

Aloe does very little for shrimp. Shrimp don't have a slime coat.

Instead get this when you finish that bottle (I don't want to suggest throwing it out, since it's not mine).

http://www.shrimpkeepersforum.com/forum/showthread.php/4233-The-Best-Water-Conditioner-(in-my-opinion)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  



  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Posts

    • kms
      Mine is a DIY Chiller, as you know a peltier has a hot side and cold side, for the cold side to stay cold, the hot side must be kept cold and with a heatsink and fan to cool it down. My DIY chiller has two sides and two water block. blue aluminum block with tube leading to the outlet of the canister filter and back to the tank to chill the tank water. copper block is to cool the hot side of the peltier, with copper block to the radiator/fan and a water pump looping. The problem is the tube from the water pump came off, apparently the plastic from the pump started to melt and the tube came off and the looping side had no water, so the copper water block stayed hot all the time with heat transferred to the cold side of the peltier also heating the water. since the copper takes time to cool down, most of the heat and the room hot temp had already heat the tank water to about 45 C.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Try testing it again and see what you get or to confirm that the previous were right, especially the higher Ph reading is all I can recommend! If there is some explanation for the difference hopefully someone will reply and let you know, but I expect there won't actually be a difference if you do it again? Simon
    • jayc
      No that's not normal. But I don't know which tube in your loop had come off. Can you show us?   Yes that would have helped a bit, and at least give KMS more time to have found the issue by turning off the chiller. As I understand, kms has a peltier style chiller, and a tube of the pump had come off, which meant that hot water from the hot side of the peltier flowed back into the tank. So if the chiller was on the same temp controller, it would have turned off the chiller at around 26degC. The tank might have got warmer in his room, but it would have been at a much slower rate, and certainly would not have reached 45degC.
    • kvinnyy
      I'm using the API master test kit with the dropper bottles. I was just very confused at how much more akaline the water was coming out of the filter compared to the water out in the open. I can't imagine how this fluctuating change in pH is going to be beneficial for my crs.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      What type of test are you doing strip or drip? I use drip tests and always ignore the first attempt as no matter how well I clean and keep the test set it is often way out of line. Las time first test was Ph8, second test Ph6. Sometimes first attempt looks ok so I have no idea what is going on????? If you just tried once it may be worth testing again? Simon
×
×
  • Create New...