Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Hughes78

Ro water setup

Recommended Posts

Foxpuppet

could it be the calibration of TDS pen?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc

Calibration of the TDS pen would just affect the reading. It might be off, but it will be constant, if TDS is not increasing.

150 to 200 ppm is definitely not a calibration issue.

Daniel,

you removed a rock which was the suspect.

Did you remove all of it? ie. did small, brittle pieces fall off it back into the substrate?

Did you figure out what type of rock it was? Limestone perhaps?

Those can be brittle in water, and fine particles can drop off back into the tank/substrate.

This will continue to leech minerals into the water thus increasing TDS.

What pH is your water, is that constant?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
CNgo2006
Ph can be explained by the rock pushing it up' date=' but the soil buffering it down. By removing the rock the soil is able to do its job and buffer to 6+.[/quote']

yes but it would not have buffered that quickly right? look at the post times there is no way it could have buffered that quickly (if I read correctly he was sitting on ph 7.6)...and what about the tds drop? How without doing a water change will it drop?

I would check the filter media and do tests on them as I remember I was using some ceramic noodles that was pushing up my ph.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
DG17

Is your carbon in the filter seachem carbon matrix? This will raise ph 100% it even says it on the box that it can rair demineralised water to no higher than a ph of 7.

As for TDS, do you have mineral balls in the tank maybe or are you supplimenting with fertilizers or anything like that for plants?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hughes78

Hi squiggled white filter there are no ornaments in the tank. The media is a course sponge , matrix , couple of handfuls of eheim pro ,purigen and white filter sponge. Running a eheim 2213 filter the only other thing in tank is a ceramic disk with stainless mesh for moss ( java in at the moment) and some grass things. Substrate is black earth premium and a bag of benibachi super powder.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hughes78

I am not dosing with any ferts but was using seachem stability to help cycle tank . But stopped that a couple of days ago . I also took out the carbon this morning but it was a no name brand carbon from a bulk supplier. Just done a 30 lt water change as tds was 227 when I got home and is now 160 so ill see in a couple of hours if it goes up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hughes78

[ATTACH]4861[/ATTACH]

post-3688-13990985354_thumb.jpg

post-3688-139909853545_thumb.jpg

post-3688-139909853549_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hughes78

[ATTACH]4867[/ATTACH]

post-3688-139909853554_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hughes78

Sorry about the pics now I know what way to have the iPhone for pics

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hughes78

Yeah they are still increasing not as bad though could this be from not fin cycling

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hughes78

Well they are back at 210 not sure what to do next ???

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hughes78

Are you suppose to rinse the benibachi before use as I have noticed that my heater has a dust like substance on it? Or is the canister to strong for the tank and disturbing the powder? It's a eheim 2213 on a standard 2 ft tank? As seen in the pic it has a sponge filter over the pickup and I've drilled out the spray bar a little .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hughes78

The plants have some thin black hair algae on them could this do it ?

post-3688-139909853592_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Squiggle
Are you suppose to rinse the benibachi before use as I have noticed that my heater has a dust like substance on it? Or is the canister to strong for the tank and disturbing the powder? It's a eheim 2213 on a standard 2 ft tank? As seen in the pic it has a sponge filter over the pickup and I've drilled out the spray bar a little .

Definitely do not rinse the soil before use, you wash all the good stuff out of the soil, the powder you see on you heater is normal & is what helps buff your PH.

I can't help but think it may be something inside the canister, you'll have to put some of each of the substrates in a jar & measure the TDS over different periods of time & see what's causing it. :encouragement:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hughes78

Thanks this makes sense , as the eheim pro is about 3 yrs old and was from my cichlid tank could this be it??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
blindfisherman

Is there any coral or anything in the filter to buffer the water when you had cichlids?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hughes78

I did have Texas holy rock in buts that's all

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hughes78

I have taken the eheim pro out and put some in a glass . The ro water in glass was 13 ppm ( without substrate) then put substrate in glass and went straight to 22. The only things left in canister are matrix and purigen both brand new.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc

Eheim substrate pro again. If this is raising tds, that will be the third time I've heard it doing that this year.

Becoming a bit of a trend. Maybe new formulation is not as good?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hughes78

Oh this is the first I've heard of it I thought it was good stuff but mine is 3 yrs old might be to old and I didn't rinse before I put it in , thinking it is this if so I will need to get some more matrix for canister as its only half full now . Should I use anything else besides matrix and purigen in the canister??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Squiggle

What Cichlids did you have? The texas holy rock will raise the PH, KH & probably the TDS too, I think the rocks have had an effect on the substrate in your filter & it has absorbed some of the minerals from the rock. :encouragement:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc

Well maybe not a trend, but certain heard of this 3 times now. For media that is supposed to be inert and not alter water chemistry, that's too often.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hughes78

Ill do a water change tonight after work and see what happens , but interesting that the tds in the glass went from 13 to over 20 in only 5 mins ... IntInteresting as for the holy rock I didn't even think of this , the cichlids I had were gold and green Severums , angels, red horse face , clown loaches and a gold spot pleco. They were all over 20cm huge fish

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc

Texas holey rock is perfect for those fish as the rock makes the water hard and alkaline.

It's not preferred by shrimp unfortunately.

If you do another water change, maybe do a gravel vacuum, to see if you can get out "stuff" that might be in the gravel that is increasing TDS. Might as well. Instead of just syphoning out clear clean water, get some detritus out, since that increases TDS as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Squiggle

I wouldn't recommend siphoning the gravel because you said you have Black Earth Premium so I'm guessing you've replaced the gravel since the Cichlids were in the tank & you don't want to remove all the buffing powder & minerals from the shrimp/plant substrate. Also I'm guessing that there wouldn't be much detritus in the soil since you said you've only just cycled the tank. I would look at replacing the substrate in your filter, most substrates only last a couple of years anyway so it would be good to get a fresh start in your canister, don't replace it all at once though, you want to keep some of the bacteria to seed the new substrate, once this is done then replace the last of the old stuff. :victorious:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Posts

    • jayc
      Yes, just right.   That's good news. It looks like there is some bacteria in the tank and it's processing the ammonia. Nitrates are building up however, but that can be reduced with water changes. Continue using the Fluval Cycle at every water change, ie. weekly. Just keep working on reducing the pH slowly.    
    • sdlTBfanUK
      That temperature is perfect! The wood and any Indian Almond leaves will be a slow (and that is what you want) PH reduction. It looks to be going well, the main thing is to change things very slowly if everything is otherwise ok! If the shrimp are active and investigating that is a good sign! Simon
    • Brando
      Update: My water temperature was read wrong.... it was not 82 haha but instead it is 72.. (which is better right) My PH is still 7.6 after adding some mopani driftwood that i boiled for 3 hours and soaked for 1 hour. MY ammonia appears to be closer to 0ppm,if not between 0 and .25pm. (definitely not .25 anymore) My nitrites are still at 0. My nitrates have risen to what I think might be 30-40ppm from 20ppm. The shrimp seem to acting normal! eating and loving the driftwood! I added the fluval cycle yesterday as well. Thank you all for the help so far and I am open to hearing more advice 🙂  
    • beanbag
      wait wait Do NOT add driftwood unless you know it is a kind that is shrimp safe and also free of pesticides and chemicals Second, boil the driftwood at least 1/2 hours in distilled water so that it doesn't suddenly release a whole bunch of things in the water. Third, do not attempt to use this to push around the pH value, especially if you don't know what is the KH value is.  You don't want sudden pH changes.  Use something a bit more gentle like Indian Almond leaf, which you can immediately take out if you overdo it. Fourth get the API liquid test kits for Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate and test every day. Fifth, get something like Seachem Prime that can protect against ammonia.  If you ever see ammonia or nitrite, then dose this approx 1 drip per gallon per day.  If you don't see any, then still dose something like 1 drip per 2 gallons per day anyway, until you are sure that the cycle is established.  You can look up the instructions and dosing guidelines for Seachem's fish-in-tank cycle guide.  (Except here you will be using Fluval cycle instead of Seachem Stability)
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I'm probably the wrong one to answer this???? Do as JayC stated and only use half dose every 2 days of the fluval cycle. I believe you only need to do a water change if the ammonia goes too high (so remove some ammonia)! I imagine that that product does add ammonia as that is the start of the cycle? The other reason for doing a water change is if the PH drops too low (below 6.5ish) but I doubt this is likely with your high PH reading, at this point anyway! Soil substrates usually lower/buffer the PH but I assume you are using sand or gravel, which is usual with cherry shrimp?  The Indian almond leaves and driftwood should very slowly reduce the PH, though the driftwood isn't yet in the tank of coarse! Hopefully the tank will have already cycled by the time the driftwood is ready to  go in the tank anyway. Simon
×
×
  • Create New...