Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
ineke

Any idea?

Recommended Posts

ineke

I have some very thin white worms in my tanks, not many in any one tank. The only way I can describe them would be they look like a white sperm with an extra long tail. Can't pick them out in a photo so can't post one. The top half is slightly thicker than the tail, they have a definite head and they aren't planaria. They start out very small and very thin, don't think it's a nematode as they seem to be the same thickness for their full length.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
blackcat

I feed my fish freeze dried tubifex worms and they appear white? I know their blackworms but mine are white cubes ?? Ditrius worms is the other option

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ineke

The tanks are pretty clean , the worms are not tubifex , I used to collect them live for my fish years ago. I've tried googling them but haven't come up with anything. I don't think they will harm the baby shrimp but I would like to know what they are.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ineke

I'm bumping this up still need help. I have treated twice with internal parasite and although it slowed them down after the first dose they are still swimming around the tank . They start out very small hairlike white worms and eventually look just like sperm but white. I have a few small ones in all tanks and the larger ones only in one tank. I will be dosing the tanks again tomorrow after another water change so any help is greatly appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Peppy_11

Probs dumb answer but are you sure they aren't just nematodes? They start as a fine white hair, and internal parasite clear doesn't kill them? And apparently there are bulk different species of them as well. Most being safe but some harmful (Not sure if some can be harmful to shrimp).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ineke

They might be Peppy I will look up nematodes and see what they are. You are right 3 doses of internal parasite hasn't killed them. Thanks for that.:encouragement:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
JohnH

I think I saw one that looked like what you have described in one of my rack tanks this morning. I was on my way out the door for work so I didn't have a great deal of time to study it. As soon as I saw it, this thread came to mind.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ineke

I looked up nematodes but they are so fine they are hard to get pictures and all the ones similar were under the microscope. As the internal parasite doesn't kill them and I don't want to put any fish in with the shrimplets I am just going to have to live with them. I have cut way back on food and all my tanks have no nitrates so can't do much else. I have caught a few with a fine net which is easy enough when the get a little bigger but the really small ones are impossible to catch. If they become a real eyesore I may catch the shrimp out and put some fish in to eat them but that would be a real pain in the but trying to catch tiny shrimplets as you would know John:)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ineke

Thanks jayc good article. Definitely sounds like them. I'm wondering if I'm allowing my mulberry leaves to stay in the tank too long. I leave them until they are mush because the babies like them but maybe that is the detritus causing the out break of worms in most of my tanks. In general the tanks are clean and I am feeding minimal amounts of food except biozyme powder daily for the shrimplets as I have a lot of new ones in my tanks. The leaves are there in case there isn't enough but they do make a mess. I might not put such big pieces in the tanks , just a few small pieces more often. :encouragement:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
northboy

Hi Ineke

If they are not giving your shrimp a hard time, just control them with the syphon hose.

I run all bare tanks, its easier to clean. I also don't have a tank inside the house (yet, soon)

Bob

PS Ineke if I get rude again JUMP on me please

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Squiggle
PS Ineke if I get rude again JUMP on me please

Oh come on Bob! Don't tell me you didn't mean to write that? You're as bad as Ineke, hahaha. :smiley_simmons:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
newbreed

Lol :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ineke
Hi Ineke

If they are not giving your shrimp a hard time' date=' just control them with the syphon hose.

I run all bare tanks, its easier to clean. I also don't have a tank inside the house (yet, soon)

Bob

PS Ineke if I get rude again JUMP on me please[/quote']

no Bob you weren't rude I meant don't worry about what people say we all have the right to our opinions and just because 1 or 2 people don't agree with us doesn't mean you shouldn't say anything. I was backing you not telling you off;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  



  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

    Join Our Community!

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      Great to hear everything is going nicely and you feel ready to start transferring more to the new tank. You were always going to have the PH difference as you are using soil but my cherry shrimp I have in both tanks thrive ok, it just means that you should drip acclimate them probably most of the day to be on the safe side and it is easy enough with the dripper to just leave it going all day. I am not advocating doing this, but as I was putting the cull shrimps into the new betta tank which had a low PH due to new substrate I just dumped them straight in and they were fine and I didn't see a dead one ever (I saw 10 the other day which is about the number I DUMPED in there) - they are much hardier/adaptable than the bee shrimps. I would do as you want/propose and try 10 for the first transfer! I really don't think you will have a problem with the PH difference but would do a long acclimatising to be safe. I have the same floating weed and mine grows really quickly but it is much easier to keep that under control than duckweed as when you get too many big ones you just remove a few. Incidentally when I do my weekly maintenance I trim off the longer bits of root to about 2 inches and it doesn't seem to harm them! You should probably keep a close eye on the tanks this week as we are supposed to be over 30 degrees most of the week. The smaller tank will be the one most at risk of excessive heat? I wish my reset shrimp tank was as lush and green as your new one - good job! I have added 17 shrimps so far and saw 8 yesterday? Simon
    • CurleyJones321
      Right so i've left the tanks and inhabitants for well this long simply because i dont want things to die off if i can help it and people have said leave it a month after establishing a tank before adding shrimp. Other than doing normal maintenance and transferring the 2 liters of old water from the small tank to the large each time and the large tank then getting an extra 2 liters of mineralised new water. Friday i sorted out all the tank decor in both tanks and adjusted the tank TDS to within 5TDS of each other. mainly because i needed to cull the flaoting plants which in the large tank the frogbit has taken over and in the small tank the water lettuce had almost taken over. the Duckweed has all but died out in both tanks not that i have done anything to aid it. my tanks now look like the attached. i then took readings they are as follows:-

      Small tank
      TDS - 232
      Temp - 23C
      PH - 7
      NH4 - Unreadable
      N03 - 1PPM
      N02 - 0.05PPM
      P04 - 2PPM
      dKH - 2
      dGH - 6

      Large Tank
      TDS - 237
      Temp - 24C
      PH - 5.5
      NH4 - Unreadable
      N03 - Unreadable
      N02 - Unreadable
      P04 - 1PPM
      dKH - 1
      dGH - 5

      So the Phosphate is up but thats because i was massively invasive in the tanks and churned up the fertaliser i have in the tank substrate. The PH is also what i would consider to be completely off

      also as a side note its worth mentioning that stressing plays out seems to stimulate them to give birth, i now have an extra at least 3 fry appear in the tank just after the works when the mothers had seemed to have stopped giving birth.

      i also got a new fish the in other breed of platy because the fish keeper at my LFS told me they could interbreed and it might make what im doing with the fish go faster, i got him today and named him Rodney and am about to add him to the Large Tank with Tyrone  before taking Tyrone out and putting more females in the tank with Rodney to let nature take its course. the Fish keeper did tell me to drip acclimate him however as the PH shock may be too much so that's what I'm currently doing and he's on his 2nd dip.

      that does make me wonder however can i now add shrimp to the tank or is the PH going to be a massive problem. i estimate i have between 60 and 100 shrimp in the small tank and want to transfer over say 10?
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Thanks for replying. I know what you mean about breeding, I started off with about 10 and was soon (couple of months) over 100, and  I am sure that would have kept going up if the tank could  have supported more??? I don't see any reason that it wouldn't work with bee shrimps if it is working so well for your cherry shrimp. Obviously the parameters are different but if you are managing to keep the cherry tanks stable I don't see why the bee would be any different, although they are a lot harder to keep! Worth a try though unless someone says otherwise? I shall certainly follow this with some interest. Simon 
    • Myola
      Hi Simon, NO, I wasn't using a buffering substrate previously in the neo tanks, it was just some white gravel that I had laying around. It had originally been in a fish tank some years ago, so it wasn't new when I put it into the neo tank. It started to break down just because of age, and my GH, and subsequently TDS, were rising out of control. JayC talked me through a rebuild with a bare floor. It has worked so well that when I set up more neo tanks I just made them bare as well. Like I said, I wouldn't go back. The little buggers are breeding like crazy, I have a very high baby survival rate and almost no deaths. Under my particular water conditions, it works great ... for neo caridinas. Now I want to do the same with caridinas, but not sure if there's more to a buffering substrate that I don't know about. Hopefully someone out there will be able to help me (and you) with the answers :)  
    • sdlTBfanUK
      A very good question and one I will follow with much interest as I had a similar question a year ago in that would I need to replace the substrate when it stopped buffering with my Taiwan bee tank if all the water I use has the right parameters. Unfortunately I don't know the answer in my case as my heater stuck on and killed all my shrimps off so I am starting again, though I still wonder about the same issue, though I should have at least a year before the new substrate stops buffering.  A lot of big breeding companies that have hundreds or thousands of shrimp (cherry and bee) in each tank (big tanks admittedly) use bare tanks (for obvious conveniences) so I am guessing it will be ok! Hopefully someone who has done it may get back to this thread, but otherwise I would give it a go with a few, especially if you have a spare small tank etc and see how it goes? If you used buffering substrate before but were using RO mineralised water of ideal PH did you have a problem once the substrate lost its buffering ability? I am/was hoping that the substrate buffering wasn't really needed if the water going into the tank is always around PH 5 or 6?  Simon
×