Jump to content
Dean

BossAquaria. How To Ship Shrimp successfully. 100% Live arrival guarantee

Recommended Posts

BlueBolts

If the weather is hot, 30+ degrees, I would out a ice pack, but ensure it doesn't directly touch the Kordon bags, and use platinum post instead of express. Unlike European countries, where it freezes, I don't think heat packs are necessary, as the shrimps can withstand cold better then warm.... Just need more patience with acclimatisation.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
revolutionhope

I love this thread! Twas a big help for me when i first researched how to ship shrimps.

I wonder what about nighttime temperatures going below freezing? Cherries is one thing but what about bee shrimp? Has anyone had issues shipping bees without a heatpack when minimum temperatures get freezing or even a couple  of degrees lower?

Love n peace

Will

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ineke

You can use heat pads as they do for fish

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
revolutionhope

Thanks ineke. Do you use heatpacks? Which brand / type ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
OzShrimp

I sent shrimp once and took 11 days to get there express post cause it sat on a conveyor at one of their sorting facilities before they found it and nearly all the shrimp were alive lol

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Matuva

11 days is still affordable. I have had shrimps coming from the States, via USPS Express, in a 10-12 days range, and I had no DOA. Consider having a 10% loss after they arrive though.

The seller, before shipping the critters, put them apart in a tank where they starved for 48 hours, so they will produce less or no wastes, he adds a drop of Seachem prime in the bag too, some java moss, and you're done

Edited by Matuva

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
revolutionhope

Someone on shrimpspot suggested using a pinch of purigen/ macropore. But what about shipping to places where it gets below freezing overnight? Do thr packs often sit in an uninsulated warehouse overnight?

Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Foxpuppet
Someone on shrimpspot suggested using a pinch of purigen/ macropore. But what about shipping to places where it gets below freezing overnight? Do thr packs often sit in an uninsulated warehouse overnight?

Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk

Perhaps some testing is in order now it's winter. Get a digital thermometer and run the probe into a syrup box and see what the temps end up at overnight

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

    Join Our Community!

  • Posts

    • jayc
      ph dropping is part of the nitrogen cycle. That means the bacteria is doing it's thing. A water change with higher pH water is necessary now to avoid the cycle stalling. The prawn growing fur is also normal, as it is decomposing, and fungi are starting to break it down. Let the biofilm grow as that will be part of the shrimp's diet once you add some in. If it's hindering your view, scrape it off the front glass only, but don't syphon it out. The dislodged biofilm from the front glass will settle somewhere else in the tank.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Its good to hear that the fur growing on the shrimp is 'normal', I may leave them in until thursdays usual maintenance day then. Todays readings are as before nitrate 25, ammonia and nitrite 0! I could get someone to get me some duckweek from the lake but I remember how hard it was to get rid of it before, so am a bit reluctant to go that route, but it should bring the nitrates down a bit??? You should leave the biofilm in the tank, the shrimps will thoroughly enjoy that when they get into that tank. Simon
    • sdlTBfanUK
      As you are aiming for TDS150 and the tank is near that now at 147 you just make the new water up to near as you can TDS150 and if you keep topping up with pure RO water between changes this would be the normal routine from now. Getting a new TDS meter was the right thing to do as they are cheap enough and hopefully it will be more accurate? As someone said before, you can get a rough idea of whether the TDS reading is right by doing a GH test as using RO water and remineraliser those figures should be related. Probably best to test some mineralised water before you put it in the tank though! Good that you haven't lost any more shrimps, hopefully that continues and all should be straight forward now. Simon
    • jc12
      Thank you. Yeah they are great quality discus of German lineage. Due to family and young kids, I was not able to devote my time to them as much as I would like to so I have since sold them back to the person who sold them to me in the first place. He has been a discus breeder for many years so I know he will look after them well and keep their progeny going within Australia. Thank you. This rack is still running but I am planning to strip it all down, move it to the garage and set it all up again.
    • supermansteve32
      Okay so I haven't done a water change in weeks because I thought the TDS needed to get closer to 150 before changing and my TDS meter continually kept reading 108 to 114. Sho I went and bought a new TDS meter and it's different from my old one.  The new one vs my old one: my water in tank 147 vs 103, water using the correct salty shrimp mix to RO water 88 vs 66. So I'm going with the reading on my new TDS meter.  So it's time for a water change.  Should I replace the water with the 88 TDS or put some more mix in until it's above 100 (since CRS parameters should be 100-200)? Thanks again everyone
×