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Dead Can Dance

Cycling WP's

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Dead Can Dance

My new tank has been cycing for a couple of weeks with a small filter. I replaced the filter yesterday with a large sponge filter.

I checked the water today.

Ammonia is 0.25ppm

Nitrites are 0

Nitrates are around 5ppm

What can I expect to happen since I changed the filter ?

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mr_c265

Cycle will be slow going... If you have the small filter around and running, put it back in, it'll speed it up.

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Heavyd

Is there anything in the tank feeding the bacteria and helping the cycle to progress?

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Dead Can Dance

It's been out of the tank for a day.. it was still slightly wet. I put it back in.

Cycle will be slow going... If you have the small filter around and running, put it back in, it'll speed it up.

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Squiggle

I wouldn't be confident that the filter will have any live bacteria after a day out of the tank, you'll have to do a full cycle but you will meet to get some more ammonia in the tank to start the cycle :encouragement:

image-74_zps5ce9e69e.jpg

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mr_c265

Give it ago, put the filter back in, but to be on the safe side, put in a prawn or a bit of fish food and wait it out all over again.

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Dead Can Dance

... :crushed:

I just threw in some hikari crab cuisine. Hopefully that'll get it started again. :(

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mr_c265

Perfect, sorry to hear you have to start over mate.

Do you have any other tanks? A good handful of substrate from a mature tank never hurt.

EDIT: Unless the tank has MTS or planaria, then it could hurt.

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Dead Can Dance

I'll throw some substrate in tomorrow, once the ammonia has kicked it up a notch. :)

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Dead Can Dance

If my WP's are;

Ammonia: 0.25ppm

Nitrites: 0

Nitrates 10ppm

It's still cycling ?

Can't I just do a large water change and it'll remove all the nitrates ? :)

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mr_c265

Still cycling for sure. Any ammonia means its still cycling. Wouldn't bother removing the nitrates, thats a low concentration anyway and there is nothing in the tank right? Wait til the ammonia is 0 then you can do whatever water changes you'd like.

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ninja

I wouldn't be worried about the nitrates, it's the ammonia you have to worry about. You have to be patient with the cycling of a tank.

I have been cycling a new tank since 15/1. It has finished cycling but I can't get the nitrates down, they are over 40ppm. I put a kamikaze berried crystal in there and she has dropped her babies and they survived, but I still won't put in anything really good in there yet. I used small koi to feed the bacteria.

Please don't hurry the process if you plan on putting sensitive shrimp in there!

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Dead Can Dance

To be clear, when cycling you should never water change ?

The fish food I've already added and is getting quite gooey, leave it there and add more ?

I plan on putting chocolate cherries in, if Gbang ever delivers them. ;)

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Gbang

Gonna send it next week after Easter but dude you definately should not put the chocolates in there if it isn't cycled yet. Try getting some seachem stability at the lfs it will help heaps. And better to suck out the fungused gunk food

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Dead Can Dance

Removed the gunk. Went to a few places today and couldn't find Seachem Stability but I added some substrate from the established tank.

I moved a bit of substrate from the established, does that mean I could now get some ammonia in the established tank ?

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mr_c265

unlikely to get ammonia in established tank unless you moved >50% of the substrate. Yep, not even cherries until cycle is finished, tell Glenn to wait, if hes happy to :P

Shouldn't be much longer. Do a test tomorrow and tell us what it sends back and ill tell you how the cycle is going.

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Dead Can Dance

0.25ppm Ammonia

0 Nitrites

Nitrates not tested.

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BlueBolts

Once Ammonia is O, Nitrites is 0, and Nitrate is >20..... you're good to go. Just be patient, let the tank naturally cycle.

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mr_c265
Once Ammonia is O' date=' Nitrites is 0, and Nitrate is >20..... you're good to go. Just be patient, let the tank naturally cycle.[/quote']

100%, except the patience bit, put in as many filters and as much substrate and plants from other tanks as possible! But no shrimp til its cycled, patience is acceptable there :P .

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ineke
Once Ammonia is O' date=' Nitrites is 0, and Nitrate is >20..... you're good to go. Just be patient, let the tank naturally cycle.[/quote']

BB is that right nitrates >20 I thought it should be <20?

Cheers

Ineke:encouragement:

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mr_c265

I remember somewhere else, someone asked if ammonia is 0, nitrites 0 is it cycled, and everyone answered yes, turns out the tank was a day old and the cycle hadn't started because there was nothing in it.

Once you have nitrates that are higher than the starting and no NO2 or NH3 left, its cycled, but you want to do a WC before shrimp go in if they are >20.

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ineke

Thanks for that. I thought ideal nitrates should be less than 20 preferably lower but I did realise you had to have them before you were cycled. The thread just read as if you HAD to have nitrates>20 to put the shrimp in and wanted it clarified.

Cheers

Ineke:encouragement:

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Dead Can Dance

My shrimp salt has arrived and my RO unit.

If I want to start getting the tank ready for CRS/CBS once it's cycled, what should I be doing ?

Can I do a large (50%+) water change with RO + shrimp salt in it ?

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BlueBolts

Sure, but really depends on your tanks TDS ATM....is the tank fully cycled yet ?

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Dead Can Dance

No TDS meter, it's in transit atm.

It's not cycled yet either but I thought I might be able to add something to it now to get it ready (salts).

Ammonia is between 0 and .25 :(

Nitrates 0

Nitrates are over 40ppm.

Using Stability but it's not having too much effect. :(

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  • Posts

    • jayc
      Yes, just right.   That's good news. It looks like there is some bacteria in the tank and it's processing the ammonia. Nitrates are building up however, but that can be reduced with water changes. Continue using the Fluval Cycle at every water change, ie. weekly. Just keep working on reducing the pH slowly.    
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    • Brando
      Update: My water temperature was read wrong.... it was not 82 haha but instead it is 72.. (which is better right) My PH is still 7.6 after adding some mopani driftwood that i boiled for 3 hours and soaked for 1 hour. MY ammonia appears to be closer to 0ppm,if not between 0 and .25pm. (definitely not .25 anymore) My nitrites are still at 0. My nitrates have risen to what I think might be 30-40ppm from 20ppm. The shrimp seem to acting normal! eating and loving the driftwood! I added the fluval cycle yesterday as well. Thank you all for the help so far and I am open to hearing more advice 🙂  
    • beanbag
      wait wait Do NOT add driftwood unless you know it is a kind that is shrimp safe and also free of pesticides and chemicals Second, boil the driftwood at least 1/2 hours in distilled water so that it doesn't suddenly release a whole bunch of things in the water. Third, do not attempt to use this to push around the pH value, especially if you don't know what is the KH value is.  You don't want sudden pH changes.  Use something a bit more gentle like Indian Almond leaf, which you can immediately take out if you overdo it. Fourth get the API liquid test kits for Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate and test every day. Fifth, get something like Seachem Prime that can protect against ammonia.  If you ever see ammonia or nitrite, then dose this approx 1 drip per gallon per day.  If you don't see any, then still dose something like 1 drip per 2 gallons per day anyway, until you are sure that the cycle is established.  You can look up the instructions and dosing guidelines for Seachem's fish-in-tank cycle guide.  (Except here you will be using Fluval cycle instead of Seachem Stability)
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I'm probably the wrong one to answer this???? Do as JayC stated and only use half dose every 2 days of the fluval cycle. I believe you only need to do a water change if the ammonia goes too high (so remove some ammonia)! I imagine that that product does add ammonia as that is the start of the cycle? The other reason for doing a water change is if the PH drops too low (below 6.5ish) but I doubt this is likely with your high PH reading, at this point anyway! Soil substrates usually lower/buffer the PH but I assume you are using sand or gravel, which is usual with cherry shrimp?  The Indian almond leaves and driftwood should very slowly reduce the PH, though the driftwood isn't yet in the tank of coarse! Hopefully the tank will have already cycled by the time the driftwood is ready to  go in the tank anyway. Simon
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