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Hydra & Planaria shrimp safe removal.


Dean
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It didn't kill my snails even the baby Ramshorns

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  • 1 month later...

Hi guys - came home today, went down to feed my shrimp and I've got a worm infestation. Once again SKF comes to the rescue. Just a few searches and I find this thread. Looks like I've got planaria and now am orderin gthis product form Aquarium Online Store. Thanks everyone one this thread, especially OP.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a really quick one guys and ladies after getting hold of some "internal parasite clear" I have done a test on the spoon that comes with it on scales etc and since everyone asks this question a lot.... 1 lvl spoon = 2.5 grams of product so treats 50 liters thought this may be handy for people as it comes up a lot around the traps the question "how many grams does the spoon hold that comes with the tub ?"

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I think i did 20% after the first treatment just before the next treatment and did 3 treatments that way.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Wow i just did 1 dose and the hydra was already starting to shrivle by the bext day what a great find IPC works wonders thank you dean for have the kahunas to try this haha

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  • 4 weeks later...

Big thumbs up from me for this product. Noticed some hydra clinging to a couple of leaves and ordered this product and treated my tank and thankfully all signs of the hydra are gone and my shrimp all doing fine. i did do a water change as recommended.

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  • 2 months later...

Just to help people out, 1 level spoon that comes in the pack is 1.25grams so each spoon is used per 25 litres of water ( so 4 level spoons per 100L )

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  • 9 months later...

glad i had this in the cabinet, found hydra all over my glass just now >:(

Did 5 level teaspoons approx so fingers crossed i am getting them early their still small and isolated in the one spot

Edited by OzShrimp
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  • 3 months later...

Glad I saved this post. Purchased Internal Parasite Clear from AOL Store. I treated my 55 litre nano shrimp tank for hydra. I originally had about 10 x 1mm hydra on the glass that I could see (yes, I am a tank nerd who looks long & hard), but by the time I got around to ordering the IPC & it arrived, they were slightly larger & there were too many to count. 5 hours after the 1st dose, I did not find any hydra on the glass. Inhabitants of the tank are wild collected shrimp (still berried), neon blue rams (temporary home as they were an impulse buy), Hillstream loaches and a halfbeak. I was actually more concerned about the rams as info. points to them being partial to dying easily.

 

Anyone concerned about the living arrangements (heavily planted & wooded tank}... lots of shrimplets develop with the Hillstream loaches & halfbeak. Neon blue rams will be removed eventually.

 

At the same time, I dosed my 120 litre wild caught rainbow / gudgeon tank for anchor worm. The anchor worm looked to have turned white and was shrivelled & barely hanging on after approx. 8hrs. The anchor worm came with the rainbows. I was removing them as I found them, but hopefully this will totally eradicate them from the tank. This is also my plant grow out tank, but it meant I couldn't use any plants for my other tanks.

 

Inhabitants of both tanks are still eating and active.

 

I have yet to re-dose.

 

One great product, so many uses.

 

Thanks for the original post, you saved two tanks.

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  • 4 weeks later...

wow , just found this thread and i be ordering the stuff today . I spent 4 hours last night cleaning the gravel out on one of my tanks

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  • 2 weeks later...

So i used the stuff , hydra is gone but the little worms are still around , i graveled vac the whole tank and just under the gravel the little buggers were still alive.

Anyway of getting rid of them ?

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  • HOF Member

If they aren't planaria just the very thin white ones then it doesn't work. If it is planaria I found the best thing was to mix the powder with water , use a syringe with a piece of airline on it and squirt the liquid into the gravel especially where you feed the most. That has worked for me several times.

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Does anyone still have a bottle of Internal Parasite Clear who can check the active ingredients for me please?

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There isn't a list of ingredients JayC unless it's in Chinese - definitely not in English

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  • 4 years later...

This is an old thread but I have seen various people looking at it a few times so thought I would add something briefly here.

I had Hydra when I set up a new tank and bought some SL Aqua Z1. This cleared the hydra and did not negatively affect plants or any occupants. It was so easy, 1 dose then that was all that was needed. I believe it is a natural product rather than a chemical treatment.

http://www.sl-aqua.com/en/conditioner/products_z1.html

There are a few UK sellers but I don't know how easy it may be to get elsewhere? I think it is an Asian product? It probably is fairly new so wasn't around when this thread was started? 

Simon 

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8 hours ago, sdlTBfanUK said:

It probably is fairly new so wasn't around when this thread was started? 

Definitely was not around. 

We had to break new ground with hiding a treatment back in those days.

 

Probably more a precaution, but I need to add this advice ... make sure you do a water change after the treatment period. If you are regular with water changes, than that is not a problem. Depending on how many planaria or hydra you have in the tank, their deaths can really spike ammonia and cause issues. So a water change after the treatment period is always advisable.

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Thanks JayC, it does say to do that but as I do weekly water changes anyway it wasn't something extra I had to do, but you are right to mention it. I didn't do a 50% water change at the end (as they recommend) of the week as I only ever saw maybe a dozen hydra so got it really early, I think I did a 20% water change!

Used it in April and not seen any hydra since and only treated the one time.

Simon

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Whiles everyone is using chemical to kill the worms, whiles don't you just catch them, there are tools available to do this.

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    • sdlTBfanUK
      You may end up losing this batch entirely but then you can start completely fresh and get the aquarium set up right for the next batch of shrimp! If you do any large water changes then try and add the new water slowly, either dripper or some other way. You should get yourself a TDS meter (as JayC above), they are cheap and readily available. You should always use a GH tester kit as well with shrimps, if you do the 50% water change that should halve the GH so you should get a reading after that, or if you can get a local fish store to test it for you that will give you an idea of the GH. If your water supply is as hard as it appears it may be you will need to mull over how (or even IF) you want to keep shrimps as that may mean using RO or distilled/bottled water and buying a proper shrimp specific remineraliser? That will be quite expensive but you won't then have to mess about adding crushed coral/eggshells etc, but only you can decide whether you want to do/spend that much etc? If you live somewhere that gets a lot of rain, then you can use rain water? Also, as JayC states, you need to know what you are using/adding to the water and aquarium, ie fertilizers, rocks. Unless you have very exotic plants you shouldn't need any fertilizers. Just as a note, we have come across quite a few experienced fish keeprs that have this sort of start off issues with shrimp. Shrimp are more difficult than fish, and the aquarium and water etc need to be ready and within the required parameters before getting the shrimps. Usually people jump in, get the shrimps before everything is ready/sorted. Hopefully though you will keep at it, or if this lot die you will have another go and we can help you get it sorted?
    • jayc
      These are all classic symptoms of shrimp moulting problems.   Again, another high GH symptom. High GH not only causes harder carapace (shell), but it also makes eggs harder. When the egg is harder the male finds it more difficult to fertilise the eggs.   That's a worry if you can't get a good GH reading because that is going to be most likely issue right now for you.   Because snails don't moult.    If you dont already have a TDS meter, I suggest getting one asap. It's another test to narrow down your water parameters, and not have to trust one test by it's own - in this case the GH test kit. I would wager your water parameter is too high in dissolved minerals - likely from the tap water source, fertiliser dosing and/or any rocks/crushed corals you might have in the tank. To remedy this, you need to start doing water changes with RO, distilled or rain water immediately. I would do a 50% water change with RO water asap. Then look for sources that increase GH in the tank and eliminate it - fertilisers, rocks, crush corals, shells.    It's difficult to save a shrimp who's carapace is already too hard, but hopefully any younger shrimps will benefit from the water change and the reduced GH.   Good luck and keep us updated.
    • professionalshrimphugger
      United States. I have tested my tap water; it yields the same results. GH: ??, KH: 3, pH: 7.8. I cannot say for sure if my GH test is faulty or not, the expiration is until 2023. It's more of a twitching, then stasis. I have one shrimp that's having a hard time balancing itself, but it's swimmerets and mouth keep moving in attempt in getting back up. I allowed it to stick to my sponge filter. The tank is cycled. I used established media. Readings would not show 0 otherwise. I do use EI Dosing, half dosage recommended for a 20 gallon. It has been said on other forums that it does not affect shrimp, but I stopped dosing to isolate variables a week ago. No CO2, that's too costly for me, hah. I drip acclimated the shrimp for 2 hours, 1 drop per second. I tested for copper in my tank, nothing. Funnily enough, my mystery snails in my community tank don't seem too affected by it.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Sorry to hear you are having a problem! Where are you based in the world? Can you test your tapwater GH/KH/PH? Best to know what the source water is, dechlorinated (if required) before you have ADDED anything. Are you sure the GH test is working and not old, or already activated/contaminated somehow? The other parameters seem ok! If the GH is as ridiculousy high as you say then I expect the shrimps would have problems molting (they may be twitching to get out of the old shell), though generally twitchy behaviour is usually down to some sort of toxic poisoning or the aquarium not being properly cycled? Are you using any plant fertiser or CO2?  Did you drip acclimate the shrimp over many hours before adding them to the aquarium? They are much more sensitive than fish to changes in water parameters etc. You could end up killing more of them by moving them so I would hold off from that at the moment!  
    • professionalshrimphugger
      Hello all, I am new to the forum, although experienced at fishkeeping, I am relatively new to shrimpkeeping. Let's start with my issue. I had started a colony of 18 juvenile cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) in a 20 gallon long as of last month. I solely use tap water and change 5% per week. They are the only inhabitants alongside a single juvenile Malaysian trumpet snail. Today the numbers have been reduced to 9. The deaths did not start until the shrimp turned into adults, where they have struggled, twitching as if provoked, becoming lethargic, and eventually flipping over to their side and dying. Only the ones on the verge of death exhibit this behavior, whereas the rest simply graze on as usual. I measured my parameters today - my tank has been established for two months as of now and is densely planted. They have never bred despite being of adult size and having visible saddles. Never an issue with molting. Ammonia: 0 ppm, Nitrite: 0 ppm, Nitrate: 0-5 ppm || pH: 7.8, GH: ??, KH: 3 I cannot get a single good read off API's liquid GH test. I have dropped beyond 30+ and gave up as I knew the numbers were already extreme. The thing is, I need a temporary, inexpensive solution to keep my shrimp safe. I believe by the time I order supplies, the colony would already give. I was planning on moving the colony to a 5.5g, barren with my floating plants and mosses, using just distilled water, Seachem Equilibrium (only GH additive I own) and crushed eggshells (potential source of KH). Possibly crushed coral to substitute for the lack of any real mineral additive. I did not believe that high GH would possibly become a problem, and I am fortunate that the strugglers are still alive. If anyone has a solution to this problem, or approve of my plan of action, please let me know. TIA
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