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Aquarium salt/mineral for RO water?


gravychic

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Hi

I just got my first RO unit for my new CRS and CBS, they seemed to be doing ok with tap water atm but i figured it would be better long term to invest in RO. Anyways, I was wondering what people would recommend I add to the RO water to get the TDS, KH right? Currently the tank is at about 130 TDS with the tap water, and i was hoping to get it to about 150 (what i've read that is OK for CRS?).

Also I've seen the shrimp specific substrates, and from what I understand they help to keep the pH stable as well as the TDS at the correct levels? Would it be advisable to add this on top of the existing gravel or in a bag in the cannister filter to help buffer the water?

The only additive I add to the tank so far is dechlorinator and a little plant nutrient every now and then.

Thanks

Yvonne

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Hey Yvonne, I use Saltyshrimp Bee Shrimp minerals for my CRS, most of the people on the forum would use this product & also most of the people would highly reccomend Benibachi shrimp soil, Dean sells both of them on his website. Personally I'd just use the shrimp soil by its self. :encouragement:

http://www.bossaquaria.com.au/saltyshrimp-minerals/

http://www.bossaquaria.com.au/tags/benibachi-black-soil

image-74_zps7b8bf304.jpg

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Thank you for the info Squiggle, I just have a few more questions cos I am still a bit confused about the shrimp substrate.

Firstly how do you know when the shrimp substrate will need to be replaced? Also with the gravel in place, it would be ok to do water changes with pure RO with nothing added? Would the gravel buffer the water fast enough for there not to be a swing in pH/TDS etc?

I've also seen it mentioned to cycle the substrate, is this just referring the the initial cycling or do you need to cycle the actual substrate itself? In that case would it be OK to add to an already established tank with CRS, CBS and cherries?

Lastly I see there is a few different types, is it just the particle size that is different? Is there a particle size that is better than another or is it just personal preference?

Thanks again for the help

Yvonne

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There's a couple of questions there I'm not too sure of which I hope one of our more experienced shrimp keepers will answer for us but I do know that you should only top up evaporation with pure RO water as the salts in the water don't evaporate, when doing a WC you should have the new water prepared to the same parameters as the tank so it won't shock the shrimp, the substrate alone won't do this, it will help keep the ph low & stable. The replacement, cycling & particle size are things that I am not sure of but am very interested to know myself :confused:

image-74_zpsa25e73d3.jpg

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  • HOF Member

just bumping this up as I would like to know as well

Cheers

Ineke

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I will attempt to answer a few of the questions.

With the substrate the cycling just refers to the initial nitrogen cycle, with ada this can take a while but benibachi can be stocked pretty fast as it doesn't leech ammonia like ada.

The smaller particle size is mostly for aesthetics. I think the larger is better for the deep areas as a deep bed of the fine particles may compact and cause anaerobic zones and the finer also makes it easier to see shimplets.

If you are using ro and salty shrimp to do waterchanges the substrate can last in excess of 18 months but with frequent tapwater changes the lifespan can be reduced to 3 months.

Edit: Phone decided to mess with my post...

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