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BlueBolts

Why Acclimatise ?

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BlueBolts

Why acclimatise ?

Shrimps are sensitive to changes in water conditions, due to different water parameters in all tanks. Acclimatisation is critical to ensure minimal stress is added to our shrimps.

Shrimps are even more susceptible to stress with shipping/transport, so all care needs to be taken to ensure they acclimatise well to their new environment.

The major reason's for acclimatisation is the different water parameters (WP) - PH, GH, KH, Temp, TDS...etc. As a general rule of thumb, my acclimatisation takes approx. 1-3 hours, or even longer, if the water parameter is substantially different i.e. TDS, PH...etc

There are several methods used for acclimatisation...

1. Traditional - Float bag in the tank (acclimatises temperature), then pour in tank water gradually over the course of 1-3 hours, by using a spoon, syringe...etc.

2. Drip Method - This method drips water into the shrimp bag/container... generally 1 drop every 2-3 seconds, again the frequency will depends on the difference in WP. Use of a air line and valve with gravity, or intravenous drip (Pic 1) using gravity again (i.e. one end (new tank water) is higher then the bag of shrimps (or container if used to pour the shrimps into).

Pic 1

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or a purposed build shrimp acclimatiser (Pic 2)!

Pic 2

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After the acclimatisation, it is advisable to net the shrimps out into the tank, rather then pour the entire contents into the tank. The main reason for this is to avoid any potential bacteria/disease that maybe in the water it came from.

Do monitor the shrimps over the next 24 hours, and ensure they are eating and moving around actively.

post-24-139909859424_thumb.jpg

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Robert

The only query i have about the drip method is how do you temp match?

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Squiggle

Nice write up dude, very informative, well done :thumbsu:

image-74_zps0695f511.jpg

Edited by Squiggle

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BlueBolts
The only query i have about the drip method is how do you temp match?

By adding/dripping the tank water into the "bag" this will automatically adjust the temp....during winter, where the bag temp can get to 16-18 degrees, I tend to float the bag for 30 min, before even starting my acclimatisation.

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Robert

In a rack system like yours its simple to float on the bottom row and drip from the top row. What ive always wondered is when people put a container on the ground in a room thats ambient temperature is say, 28 in summer and drip 23 degrees tank water that has been chilled which will heat up again. Especially when its out of the tank for 1-3hrs temperature diffusion is sure to occur

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BlueBolts

True, each setup will have its own unique way... On my individual tanks, I just float the bags ..... And use a syringe and squirt in the tank water every 10-15 minutes.

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blindfisherman

Peg the floating bag in a corner.

Using a take away container with a pin pri ck in it, prop it up on the lid so the hole is over the bag and fill it will water every 10 mins.

or just do it when room temp is close to tank temp and float it initially like BB suggested.

Edit: stars out pri ck

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al4n

Wouldn't floating the kordon bags suffocate the shrimps?

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BlueBolts
Wouldn't floating the kordon bags suffocate the shrimps?

Should always open and float the kordon bag....

post-599-139909859987_thumb.jpg

post-24-13990984864_thumb.jpg

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ineke

I'm just bumping this thread up as we have a lot of new members that may not be aware of how best to acclimatise their shrimp .

Maybe sticky material ?????

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newbreed

Great idea floating the bags, especially on those really hot days. Great write up!!

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OzShrimp

I use my satellite breeder box on the side of the tank i just fill it with the water it came with so i can adjust the drip rate into it and allow it to run for a few hours so that it would have atleast filled with complete tank water once :)

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petfish
I use my satellite breeder box on the side of the tank i just fill it with the water it came with so i can adjust the drip rate into it and allow it to run for a few hours so that it would have atleast filled with complete tank water once :)

but then the water that the shrimp came to you in, would then be going into your tank, i NEVER put someone else's water in my tank's as it is very possible you could introduce disease to your tank/tank's. not having a go, just saying it's not a good idea.

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ineke

Good pick up Petfish you should really always net the shrimp out of the water once acclimatisation is finished just to be on the safe side . :clap:

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petfish

yeah, just not worth taking the risk.

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Aquathumb

If the water your new shrimp arrived in carries a disease then chances are the new shrimp will carry that disease into your tank whether you net it out or not. Always buy from reputable breeders or when in doubt, Quarantine the new shrimp in another tank for a few weeks to a month.

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BlueBolts

Depends on your tank setup (over filtration, UV...), and the confidence you have with your eco system. I personally mix/pour the water in..,believing in bullet proofing their immunity etc..... A major critical element of acclimatisation is stress....a stress shrimp will suffer the fate of PH, TDS & temp fluctuation and bacteria issues... Bacteria is always present, just depends on the shrimps ability to fend it off.

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Squiggle

Have to agree completely, there is bacteria(good & bad) on every surface on the planet both above & below the water & it really depends on the strength on the immune system of your shrimp to be able to fight the bad stuff off. Just have to make sure your shrimp have had their Inner Health Plus today! Hahaha. :rofl:

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andy-Eco-tank

The only query i have about the drip method is how do you temp match?

Hi Robert some thing I do is float a container in my tank with the new shrimp/fish and use a air line pushed up in my water inlet pipe with a air line tap to set it to drip water in the container till almost full then put new stock in tank and remove container and water that they come in. Hope this give's you some new ideas that may work for you.

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  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      Great to hear everything is going nicely and you feel ready to start transferring more to the new tank. You were always going to have the PH difference as you are using soil but my cherry shrimp I have in both tanks thrive ok, it just means that you should drip acclimate them probably most of the day to be on the safe side and it is easy enough with the dripper to just leave it going all day. I am not advocating doing this, but as I was putting the cull shrimps into the new betta tank which had a low PH due to new substrate I just dumped them straight in and they were fine and I didn't see a dead one ever (I saw 10 the other day which is about the number I DUMPED in there) - they are much hardier/adaptable than the bee shrimps. I would do as you want/propose and try 10 for the first transfer! I really don't think you will have a problem with the PH difference but would do a long acclimatising to be safe. I have the same floating weed and mine grows really quickly but it is much easier to keep that under control than duckweed as when you get too many big ones you just remove a few. Incidentally when I do my weekly maintenance I trim off the longer bits of root to about 2 inches and it doesn't seem to harm them! You should probably keep a close eye on the tanks this week as we are supposed to be over 30 degrees most of the week. The smaller tank will be the one most at risk of excessive heat? I wish my reset shrimp tank was as lush and green as your new one - good job! I have added 17 shrimps so far and saw 8 yesterday? Simon
    • CurleyJones321
      Right so i've left the tanks and inhabitants for well this long simply because i dont want things to die off if i can help it and people have said leave it a month after establishing a tank before adding shrimp. Other than doing normal maintenance and transferring the 2 liters of old water from the small tank to the large each time and the large tank then getting an extra 2 liters of mineralised new water. Friday i sorted out all the tank decor in both tanks and adjusted the tank TDS to within 5TDS of each other. mainly because i needed to cull the flaoting plants which in the large tank the frogbit has taken over and in the small tank the water lettuce had almost taken over. the Duckweed has all but died out in both tanks not that i have done anything to aid it. my tanks now look like the attached. i then took readings they are as follows:-

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      TDS - 232
      Temp - 23C
      PH - 7
      NH4 - Unreadable
      N03 - 1PPM
      N02 - 0.05PPM
      P04 - 2PPM
      dKH - 2
      dGH - 6

      Large Tank
      TDS - 237
      Temp - 24C
      PH - 5.5
      NH4 - Unreadable
      N03 - Unreadable
      N02 - Unreadable
      P04 - 1PPM
      dKH - 1
      dGH - 5

      So the Phosphate is up but thats because i was massively invasive in the tanks and churned up the fertaliser i have in the tank substrate. The PH is also what i would consider to be completely off

      also as a side note its worth mentioning that stressing plays out seems to stimulate them to give birth, i now have an extra at least 3 fry appear in the tank just after the works when the mothers had seemed to have stopped giving birth.

      i also got a new fish the in other breed of platy because the fish keeper at my LFS told me they could interbreed and it might make what im doing with the fish go faster, i got him today and named him Rodney and am about to add him to the Large Tank with Tyrone  before taking Tyrone out and putting more females in the tank with Rodney to let nature take its course. the Fish keeper did tell me to drip acclimate him however as the PH shock may be too much so that's what I'm currently doing and he's on his 2nd dip.

      that does make me wonder however can i now add shrimp to the tank or is the PH going to be a massive problem. i estimate i have between 60 and 100 shrimp in the small tank and want to transfer over say 10?
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Thanks for replying. I know what you mean about breeding, I started off with about 10 and was soon (couple of months) over 100, and  I am sure that would have kept going up if the tank could  have supported more??? I don't see any reason that it wouldn't work with bee shrimps if it is working so well for your cherry shrimp. Obviously the parameters are different but if you are managing to keep the cherry tanks stable I don't see why the bee would be any different, although they are a lot harder to keep! Worth a try though unless someone says otherwise? I shall certainly follow this with some interest. Simon 
    • Myola
      Hi Simon, NO, I wasn't using a buffering substrate previously in the neo tanks, it was just some white gravel that I had laying around. It had originally been in a fish tank some years ago, so it wasn't new when I put it into the neo tank. It started to break down just because of age, and my GH, and subsequently TDS, were rising out of control. JayC talked me through a rebuild with a bare floor. It has worked so well that when I set up more neo tanks I just made them bare as well. Like I said, I wouldn't go back. The little buggers are breeding like crazy, I have a very high baby survival rate and almost no deaths. Under my particular water conditions, it works great ... for neo caridinas. Now I want to do the same with caridinas, but not sure if there's more to a buffering substrate that I don't know about. Hopefully someone out there will be able to help me (and you) with the answers :)  
    • sdlTBfanUK
      A very good question and one I will follow with much interest as I had a similar question a year ago in that would I need to replace the substrate when it stopped buffering with my Taiwan bee tank if all the water I use has the right parameters. Unfortunately I don't know the answer in my case as my heater stuck on and killed all my shrimps off so I am starting again, though I still wonder about the same issue, though I should have at least a year before the new substrate stops buffering.  A lot of big breeding companies that have hundreds or thousands of shrimp (cherry and bee) in each tank (big tanks admittedly) use bare tanks (for obvious conveniences) so I am guessing it will be ok! Hopefully someone who has done it may get back to this thread, but otherwise I would give it a go with a few, especially if you have a spare small tank etc and see how it goes? If you used buffering substrate before but were using RO mineralised water of ideal PH did you have a problem once the substrate lost its buffering ability? I am/was hoping that the substrate buffering wasn't really needed if the water going into the tank is always around PH 5 or 6?  Simon
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