Jump to content
BlueBolts

Why Acclimatise ?

Recommended Posts

BlueBolts

Why acclimatise ?

Shrimps are sensitive to changes in water conditions, due to different water parameters in all tanks. Acclimatisation is critical to ensure minimal stress is added to our shrimps.

Shrimps are even more susceptible to stress with shipping/transport, so all care needs to be taken to ensure they acclimatise well to their new environment.

The major reason's for acclimatisation is the different water parameters (WP) - PH, GH, KH, Temp, TDS...etc. As a general rule of thumb, my acclimatisation takes approx. 1-3 hours, or even longer, if the water parameter is substantially different i.e. TDS, PH...etc

There are several methods used for acclimatisation...

1. Traditional - Float bag in the tank (acclimatises temperature), then pour in tank water gradually over the course of 1-3 hours, by using a spoon, syringe...etc.

2. Drip Method - This method drips water into the shrimp bag/container... generally 1 drop every 2-3 seconds, again the frequency will depends on the difference in WP. Use of a air line and valve with gravity, or intravenous drip (Pic 1) using gravity again (i.e. one end (new tank water) is higher then the bag of shrimps (or container if used to pour the shrimps into).

Pic 1

post-2255-139909849744_thumb.jpg

or a purposed build shrimp acclimatiser (Pic 2)!

Pic 2

post-2255-139909849748_thumb.jpg

After the acclimatisation, it is advisable to net the shrimps out into the tank, rather then pour the entire contents into the tank. The main reason for this is to avoid any potential bacteria/disease that maybe in the water it came from.

Do monitor the shrimps over the next 24 hours, and ensure they are eating and moving around actively.

post-24-139909859424_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Robert

The only query i have about the drip method is how do you temp match?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Squiggle

Nice write up dude, very informative, well done :thumbsu:

image-74_zps0695f511.jpg

Edited by Squiggle

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BlueBolts
The only query i have about the drip method is how do you temp match?

By adding/dripping the tank water into the "bag" this will automatically adjust the temp....during winter, where the bag temp can get to 16-18 degrees, I tend to float the bag for 30 min, before even starting my acclimatisation.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Robert

In a rack system like yours its simple to float on the bottom row and drip from the top row. What ive always wondered is when people put a container on the ground in a room thats ambient temperature is say, 28 in summer and drip 23 degrees tank water that has been chilled which will heat up again. Especially when its out of the tank for 1-3hrs temperature diffusion is sure to occur

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BlueBolts

True, each setup will have its own unique way... On my individual tanks, I just float the bags ..... And use a syringe and squirt in the tank water every 10-15 minutes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
blindfisherman

Peg the floating bag in a corner.

Using a take away container with a pin pri ck in it, prop it up on the lid so the hole is over the bag and fill it will water every 10 mins.

or just do it when room temp is close to tank temp and float it initially like BB suggested.

Edit: stars out pri ck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
al4n

Wouldn't floating the kordon bags suffocate the shrimps?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BlueBolts
Wouldn't floating the kordon bags suffocate the shrimps?

Should always open and float the kordon bag....

post-599-139909859987_thumb.jpg

post-24-13990984864_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ineke

I'm just bumping this thread up as we have a lot of new members that may not be aware of how best to acclimatise their shrimp .

Maybe sticky material ?????

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
newbreed

Great idea floating the bags, especially on those really hot days. Great write up!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
OzShrimp

I use my satellite breeder box on the side of the tank i just fill it with the water it came with so i can adjust the drip rate into it and allow it to run for a few hours so that it would have atleast filled with complete tank water once :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
petfish
I use my satellite breeder box on the side of the tank i just fill it with the water it came with so i can adjust the drip rate into it and allow it to run for a few hours so that it would have atleast filled with complete tank water once :)

but then the water that the shrimp came to you in, would then be going into your tank, i NEVER put someone else's water in my tank's as it is very possible you could introduce disease to your tank/tank's. not having a go, just saying it's not a good idea.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ineke

Good pick up Petfish you should really always net the shrimp out of the water once acclimatisation is finished just to be on the safe side . :clap:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
petfish

yeah, just not worth taking the risk.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Aquathumb

If the water your new shrimp arrived in carries a disease then chances are the new shrimp will carry that disease into your tank whether you net it out or not. Always buy from reputable breeders or when in doubt, Quarantine the new shrimp in another tank for a few weeks to a month.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BlueBolts

Depends on your tank setup (over filtration, UV...), and the confidence you have with your eco system. I personally mix/pour the water in..,believing in bullet proofing their immunity etc..... A major critical element of acclimatisation is stress....a stress shrimp will suffer the fate of PH, TDS & temp fluctuation and bacteria issues... Bacteria is always present, just depends on the shrimps ability to fend it off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Squiggle

Have to agree completely, there is bacteria(good & bad) on every surface on the planet both above & below the water & it really depends on the strength on the immune system of your shrimp to be able to fight the bad stuff off. Just have to make sure your shrimp have had their Inner Health Plus today! Hahaha. :rofl:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
andy-Eco-tank

The only query i have about the drip method is how do you temp match?

Hi Robert some thing I do is float a container in my tank with the new shrimp/fish and use a air line pushed up in my water inlet pipe with a air line tap to set it to drip water in the container till almost full then put new stock in tank and remove container and water that they come in. Hope this give's you some new ideas that may work for you.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

    Join Our Community!

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      Thanks for replying. I know what you mean about breeding, I started off with about 10 and was soon (couple of months) over 100, and  I am sure that would have kept going up if the tank could  have supported more??? I don't see any reason that it wouldn't work with bee shrimps if it is working so well for your cherry shrimp. Obviously the parameters are different but if you are managing to keep the cherry tanks stable I don't see why the bee would be any different, although they are a lot harder to keep! Worth a try though unless someone says otherwise? I shall certainly follow this with some interest. Simon 
    • Myola
      Hi Simon, NO, I wasn't using a buffering substrate previously in the neo tanks, it was just some white gravel that I had laying around. It had originally been in a fish tank some years ago, so it wasn't new when I put it into the neo tank. It started to break down just because of age, and my GH, and subsequently TDS, were rising out of control. JayC talked me through a rebuild with a bare floor. It has worked so well that when I set up more neo tanks I just made them bare as well. Like I said, I wouldn't go back. The little buggers are breeding like crazy, I have a very high baby survival rate and almost no deaths. Under my particular water conditions, it works great ... for neo caridinas. Now I want to do the same with caridinas, but not sure if there's more to a buffering substrate that I don't know about. Hopefully someone out there will be able to help me (and you) with the answers :)  
    • sdlTBfanUK
      A very good question and one I will follow with much interest as I had a similar question a year ago in that would I need to replace the substrate when it stopped buffering with my Taiwan bee tank if all the water I use has the right parameters. Unfortunately I don't know the answer in my case as my heater stuck on and killed all my shrimps off so I am starting again, though I still wonder about the same issue, though I should have at least a year before the new substrate stops buffering.  A lot of big breeding companies that have hundreds or thousands of shrimp (cherry and bee) in each tank (big tanks admittedly) use bare tanks (for obvious conveniences) so I am guessing it will be ok! Hopefully someone who has done it may get back to this thread, but otherwise I would give it a go with a few, especially if you have a spare small tank etc and see how it goes? If you used buffering substrate before but were using RO mineralised water of ideal PH did you have a problem once the substrate lost its buffering ability? I am/was hoping that the substrate buffering wasn't really needed if the water going into the tank is always around PH 5 or 6?  Simon
    • Myola
      So here's the thing. I've got 6 bare-bottom neo tanks that have been chugging along just fine for quite a while now. There are lots of babies and it's extremely rare to have any deaths, even when I add new shrimp.  I use remineralised rain water that has been filtered through an RO. I stopped using substrates in the tanks after I had ongoing issues with it breaking down, and to be honest, I wouldn't go back. Now I want to start some caridina tanks for tangerine tigers, CRS and blue bolts but want to know if I can get away with bare bottoms in them too. My RO filtered rain water comes out at pH 5, and when I add Salty Shrimp 'Bee shrimp' minerals to give me a GH of 5, the pH goes up to around 5.8. Do I really need the buffering affects of a substrate if my water is already within an acceptable range for caridinas? 
    • jayc
      It must have been an aluminium heatsink. The Indium in Liquid metal will eat through aluminium. Only copper or nickel plated heatsinks can be used with liquid metal. It says so on the packet, at least my pack of Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut does.
×