water testing

[ineke]

Hi All,

When do you test the water before or after a water change. I have been testing my cycling tanks every 3 days and changing about 25% of the water after each test. My larger community tank has finally got 0 nitrites and 0 ammonia so will test weekly now before a water change. I will continue to test the cycling tanks every 3 days before water change. Is that the right way or do I test after the water change? I have kept fish off and on for many years and never did testing just weekly water changes:o - with good results rarely a death. Now all of a sudden my little critters are getting it all!!! I just hope it is right.

Cheers

Ineke

[Triggs]

While cycling you're best to test before the water change.

Once cycled and it has livestock you can test before the water change & test the water you're adding.

Sorry I'd type/explain more but on my phone.

[fishmosy]

A test after a water change might help to pick up problems, such as ammonia in your water source, a broken RO machine or pH/KH/GH variance in your water source due to recent heavy rain.

That said, most people I know do water testing either prior to water changes and only regularly (e.g, daily) test if they are keeping an eye on a particular parameter. It is probably a waste of time to do a swathe of tests unless there are problems or unless you have a reason. For example mixing shrimp salts to a certain EC level requires testing, shrimp deaths should trigger testing. Cycling a tank should require tests.

I think you just have to go with your gut on when/what testing is required.

[Squiggle]

I'm not trying to hijack here as this question is still pretty much on topic but what the best way to test TDS, would you use a refractometer for this?

I agree that while cycling you should test before WC & on a established tank you would test before WC & then test new water going in to the tank to make sure there won't be too much of a shock to the system i.e. difference in ph etc. :)

[ineke]

Thanks Triggs and Fishmosy , both tanks are doing Ok I just have a bit high nitrate in the community tank which is probably due to A) over feeding and B) slightly overcrowded due to having to remove fish from my shrimp tank. Ammonia and Nitrites are now 0 in both tanks and ph is 7.4 and stable it comes out of the tap at that and has not budged. These are the only tests I can do at the moment. But if there is no hard and fast rule I shall continue as I have been. Fish and shrimp appear happy and healthy. I am trying to keep it simple because I know us beginners can probably cause as much harm as good if we start playing around with chemicals to get the water right.

Cheers

Ineke

[ineke]

Hi Squiggle you are just asking questions we all need to know so this is a good thread to ask it in

Cheers

Ineke

[fishmosy]

I'm not trying to hijack here as this question is still pretty much on topic but what the best way to test TDS' date=' would you use a refractometer for this?

I agree that while cycling you should test before WC & on a established tank you would test before WC & then test new water going in to the tank to make sure there won't be too much of a shock to the system i.e. difference in ph etc. :)[/quote']

A refractometer is typically used to test salinity. For TDS you want a conductivity meter.

[Squiggle]

For TDS you want a conductivity meter.

Thanks, where would you get one & what is a decent brand or recommended brand to get?

[fishmosy]

I've only used the $1000+ Hach multi-probe (at work) and its fantastic, but for something more price friendly I'll let someone else answer that.

[durro68]

I have the HANNA HI98303 DiST 3 for measuring EC (not TDS - but related) I got this unit as the Salty Shrimp additives use EC not TDS - this is the same model Dean uses - it is a low range EC meter.

For TDS and pH I just got a couple of nonames off ebay.

I got the HANNA meter through the Aust HANNA site - http://www.hannainst.com.au/learn_more/c:HI+98303