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Shrimp 101


BlueBolts
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Awesome BB, this is the perfect thread for both experienced fish keepers switching to shrimp, like me, & totally novices who have never kept anything, saw a CRS in a LFS & thought that could keep them. Nice work dude :encouragement:

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As I have found through the loss of a quality red cherry colony last year, shrimp are oxygen lovers!!! lots of water circulation and aeration! Especially when hot weather is around!

Top write up BB!

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You forgot a very important point...PATIENCE IS KEY!!! whether it be acclimatising, breeding, cycling tank, going on to higher grades (starting with the humble cherry first gaining experience), etc....

PS. @BB With the amount of write ups and effort you put into the forum why aren't you a Mod yet?

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As I have found through the loss of a quality red cherry colony last year' date=' shrimp are oxygen lovers!!! lots of water circulation and aeration! Especially when hot weather is around![/quote']Thanks, great advise, have added to the list...Thanks, another great advise, have added to the list...Won't make the grade, power and authority creates an ugly BB/Marcus...thanks for the vote of confidence though.
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Thanks again Bluebolts on another informative thread...Need to keep re-assuring myself that PATIENCE IS THE KEY in shrimp keeping/breeding which is hard at times...Want to hurry things up ( guess that's human nature)...

Currently I don't have RO water available @ home and wondering how much would it cost (on a budget)??? Also what are alternative ways to use tap water especially for those who don't have RO system installed @ home? (sorry might of been mentioned somewhere else in other topics) Cheers CJ

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Hey Neo I don't have a Ro system either but for now I've found an aquarium not too far from me that sells it cheap and it's top notch water. You might be lucky and have a place nearby that does the same.

Thanks BB for all this info your supplying us with, looking forward to the day when I can try my hand at some of the more difficult shrimp and use this knowledge i've learnt from this forum.

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Thanks for the tip Ziek...Never thought of going to LFS for RO water....CJ

Hey Neo I don't have a Ro system either but for now I've found an aquarium not too far from me that sells it cheap and it's top notch water. You might be lucky and have a place nearby that does the same.
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There's been several horror stories with RO water from a 3rd source, whether LFS... etc. With the sensitivity of shrimps, be very vigilant and complete a WP test of any water from a 3rd source, before pouring into your tanks.

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I have never used RO water but don't have sensitive shrimp... yet! Just cherrys.

i do how ever make sure i buy a water ager that neutralizes / detoxifys heavy metals. Is this safe, safe? or am I just fooling myself?

Cheers Roman

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Hi Roman, I previously had many success with tap water, but it only takes one situation (i.e. break of water line-contaminating the water supply, high phosphates/or other additives, old copper pipes...etc..) My water supply has a TDS of 350-400, and although I had success with breeding CRS, the % of shrimplets survival wasn't great, PLUS there were many unexplained deaths, and impossble to figure out...with RO water, at least you can eliminate so many possibilities, and quickly narrow down the causes, and move forward towards the exotic shrimps etc..... It just makes us better hobbyist as we can actually determine causes of issues, do's and don't etc more accurately. But that's just me being a control freak. LOL

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i figured as much. i just wanted to raise this point

The day I get a CRS is the week after I get an RO system.

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  • HOF Member

Hi Bluebolts

I can't find the abbreviations for TDS in the library and I notice it is used here a lot. forgive my ignorance but what is it and should I be worried about this for RCS

Cheers

Ineke

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Excellent write up, Marcus - I have two points to add:

*TB (KK, WR & BB) - Some breeders prefer a slightly lower PH (5.6 - 6.2) for Tigers
the last word should be Taiwan Bee (not Tigers)fresh boiled food (spinach, stinging nettle) will stimulate breeding even more than pellet food. This is also true for feeding brine shrimp and blood worms (=protein). However, one should be aware to not introduce planaria eggs with the food (that is why I prefer brine shrimp)temperature also stimulates breeding: adding a bit cold water can stimulate molts, while raising temperature ad light will stimulate the females to produce eggs. Most of our kept shrimp here in Europe stop breeding in winter from October to January.TDS is total dissolved solids, btw - everything that is i the water, no only ions.
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"....one should be aware to not introduce planaria eggs with the food (that is why I prefer brine shrimp)

Thanks Imke, have amended my typo. Do planaria eggs commonly come via bloodworms ? Do European shrimp breeder then artificially create the environment during Oct-Jan to trick the shrimps to breed ? or do they just leave and accept it ?

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Thanks Imke' date=' have amended my typo. Do planaria eggs commonly come via bloodworms ? Do European shrimp breeder then artificially create the environment during Oct-Jan to trick the shrimps to breed ? or do they just leave and accept it ?[/quote']

All bloodworms and frozen fishfoods must be Gamma radiated prior to being released for the suppliers to sell. Don't quote me but I think they go through the gamma radiation process 2 or 3 times.... There's not going to be any nasties left in the food after that.

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All bloodworms and frozen fishfoods must be Gamma radiated prior to being released for the suppliers to sell. Don't quote me but I think they go through the gamma radiation process 2 or 3 times.... There's not going to be any nasties left in the food after that.

Thanks sajica.....maybe that's how Dean gets his green shrimps ? Gamma radiation ...mmmmm...

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Great write up BB, you covered a lot of very good points :)

how did i miss this thread!

Gamma ray treatment??? now there's a new idea to try lol

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Great write up BB' date=' you covered a lot of very good points :)

how did i miss this thread!

Gamma ray treatment??? now there's a new idea to try lol[/quote']

Is this before or after the shrimp rocket? ..... I'm just saying

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Thanks Imke' date=' have amended my typo. Do planaria eggs commonly come via bloodworms ? Do European shrimp breeder then artificially create the environment during Oct-Jan to trick the shrimps to breed ? or do they just leave and accept it ?[/quote']

Well, the no reproduction phase is also reported from other seasons, and when you put shrimp into another tank. I have remarked it mostly in winter (Oct-Feb) and hot summers (July-August). Also, some older shrimp die off in this time, and not all shrimp species show this behavior simultaneously.

For the season break, air pressure, light, tank water temperature seem to be the main impacts.

Most breeders accept the pause, as it seems to be natural, and shrimp need time to recreate. With the bigger water changes with soft water, one can imitate the rain falls.

For the planaria eggs, the preparation of live food seem to differ in countries. I have read a lot that planaria came with frozen food, which comes from freshwater. So, I personally prefer brine shrimp which are bred in salty water.

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  • 7 months later...

With spring upon us, and the influx of new hobbyist/members on SKF, thought I'd resurrect this thread, as it has several important points of discussion we could share, and even remind us all of the basics of shrimp keeping, whether new or old shrimp keepers...

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  • 4 months later...

Fantastic thread BB! Thank you very much. I've been looking for something like this for the past few weeks :happydance:

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    • sdlTBfanUK
      You may end up losing this batch entirely but then you can start completely fresh and get the aquarium set up right for the next batch of shrimp! If you do any large water changes then try and add the new water slowly, either dripper or some other way. You should get yourself a TDS meter (as JayC above), they are cheap and readily available. You should always use a GH tester kit as well with shrimps, if you do the 50% water change that should halve the GH so you should get a reading after that, or if you can get a local fish store to test it for you that will give you an idea of the GH. If your water supply is as hard as it appears it may be you will need to mull over how (or even IF) you want to keep shrimps as that may mean using RO or distilled/bottled water and buying a proper shrimp specific remineraliser? That will be quite expensive but you won't then have to mess about adding crushed coral/eggshells etc, but only you can decide whether you want to do/spend that much etc? If you live somewhere that gets a lot of rain, then you can use rain water? Also, as JayC states, you need to know what you are using/adding to the water and aquarium, ie fertilizers, rocks. Unless you have very exotic plants you shouldn't need any fertilizers. Just as a note, we have come across quite a few experienced fish keeprs that have this sort of start off issues with shrimp. Shrimp are more difficult than fish, and the aquarium and water etc need to be ready and within the required parameters before getting the shrimps. Usually people jump in, get the shrimps before everything is ready/sorted. Hopefully though you will keep at it, or if this lot die you will have another go and we can help you get it sorted?
    • jayc
      These are all classic symptoms of shrimp moulting problems.   Again, another high GH symptom. High GH not only causes harder carapace (shell), but it also makes eggs harder. When the egg is harder the male finds it more difficult to fertilise the eggs.   That's a worry if you can't get a good GH reading because that is going to be most likely issue right now for you.   Because snails don't moult.    If you dont already have a TDS meter, I suggest getting one asap. It's another test to narrow down your water parameters, and not have to trust one test by it's own - in this case the GH test kit. I would wager your water parameter is too high in dissolved minerals - likely from the tap water source, fertiliser dosing and/or any rocks/crushed corals you might have in the tank. To remedy this, you need to start doing water changes with RO, distilled or rain water immediately. I would do a 50% water change with RO water asap. Then look for sources that increase GH in the tank and eliminate it - fertilisers, rocks, crush corals, shells.    It's difficult to save a shrimp who's carapace is already too hard, but hopefully any younger shrimps will benefit from the water change and the reduced GH.   Good luck and keep us updated.
    • professionalshrimphugger
      United States. I have tested my tap water; it yields the same results. GH: ??, KH: 3, pH: 7.8. I cannot say for sure if my GH test is faulty or not, the expiration is until 2023. It's more of a twitching, then stasis. I have one shrimp that's having a hard time balancing itself, but it's swimmerets and mouth keep moving in attempt in getting back up. I allowed it to stick to my sponge filter. The tank is cycled. I used established media. Readings would not show 0 otherwise. I do use EI Dosing, half dosage recommended for a 20 gallon. It has been said on other forums that it does not affect shrimp, but I stopped dosing to isolate variables a week ago. No CO2, that's too costly for me, hah. I drip acclimated the shrimp for 2 hours, 1 drop per second. I tested for copper in my tank, nothing. Funnily enough, my mystery snails in my community tank don't seem too affected by it.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Sorry to hear you are having a problem! Where are you based in the world? Can you test your tapwater GH/KH/PH? Best to know what the source water is, dechlorinated (if required) before you have ADDED anything. Are you sure the GH test is working and not old, or already activated/contaminated somehow? The other parameters seem ok! If the GH is as ridiculousy high as you say then I expect the shrimps would have problems molting (they may be twitching to get out of the old shell), though generally twitchy behaviour is usually down to some sort of toxic poisoning or the aquarium not being properly cycled? Are you using any plant fertiser or CO2?  Did you drip acclimate the shrimp over many hours before adding them to the aquarium? They are much more sensitive than fish to changes in water parameters etc. You could end up killing more of them by moving them so I would hold off from that at the moment!  
    • professionalshrimphugger
      Hello all, I am new to the forum, although experienced at fishkeeping, I am relatively new to shrimpkeeping. Let's start with my issue. I had started a colony of 18 juvenile cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) in a 20 gallon long as of last month. I solely use tap water and change 5% per week. They are the only inhabitants alongside a single juvenile Malaysian trumpet snail. Today the numbers have been reduced to 9. The deaths did not start until the shrimp turned into adults, where they have struggled, twitching as if provoked, becoming lethargic, and eventually flipping over to their side and dying. Only the ones on the verge of death exhibit this behavior, whereas the rest simply graze on as usual. I measured my parameters today - my tank has been established for two months as of now and is densely planted. They have never bred despite being of adult size and having visible saddles. Never an issue with molting. Ammonia: 0 ppm, Nitrite: 0 ppm, Nitrate: 0-5 ppm || pH: 7.8, GH: ??, KH: 3 I cannot get a single good read off API's liquid GH test. I have dropped beyond 30+ and gave up as I knew the numbers were already extreme. The thing is, I need a temporary, inexpensive solution to keep my shrimp safe. I believe by the time I order supplies, the colony would already give. I was planning on moving the colony to a 5.5g, barren with my floating plants and mosses, using just distilled water, Seachem Equilibrium (only GH additive I own) and crushed eggshells (potential source of KH). Possibly crushed coral to substitute for the lack of any real mineral additive. I did not believe that high GH would possibly become a problem, and I am fortunate that the strugglers are still alive. If anyone has a solution to this problem, or approve of my plan of action, please let me know. TIA
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