Jump to content

Caridina water parameters


Mac

Recommended Posts

Hi masters im back again. My other account got lock i dont know how to open it again, its automatically sign out and i cant open it.

Ayways i have concern about the caridina water parameters.

I mix our diy minerals in the tub with ro water with 80tds gh3-4

Then when i put the water into my tank the tds become lower its about 60tds and 3gh 

The question is, is that possible? And is that ok to caridina that kind of water parameter im bothering with my tds, before in my tub its 80 when i mix minerals then when i put the water into my tank it become lower the tds not 80 but it become 60tds. What should i do? 

The 2nd question is 

Im bother and confused that every hobbyist or breeder they have there own water parameters, for the caridina taiwan is

 80tds. 

6.5ph.

gh 3-4

temp 24c - 23c,

and other breeder in taiwan they have

tds 100-150

ph 5.5-7

temp 23c 25

Then here in my place they have 

Tds 80-150

Ph5.5-6.5

Gh4-6 

Temp 22c-26c

Why every breeder or hobbyist have there own water parameters for caridina im very bother with that none specific water parameters is that good or not? Because im very confused 

Thank in advance masters

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The tds dropping in the tank  could be down to several things;

a) The tank water is lower to start with so the new water mixture is being diluted. Did you cycle the tank with just RO water, or even tap water with a low tds?

b) There is something in the tank absorbing/leaching the tds, possibly soil/peat substrate.

The thing to do is get the tank parameters to where you want them and then test that every few days and see if there is any noticeable change in the tds. The tank needs to be filled to the same level when you test and use pure RO water only to top it up.

The parameters should be kept as steady as possible, and if the breeder keeps theirs at a certain set of parameters then matching those would be a good idea. Of coarse that only works with shrimps if they were all kept in those same parameters, which is unlikely if bought from different breeders etc. 

The range I would AIM for is below, and so aim for the mid point to allow for fluctuations, and as long as you get all the parameters somewhere in this range (they are unlikely to ALL be in the middle though) you should be fine,

PH 5.5-6.5

TDS 100-160

GH 4-6

KH 0 - 2

temp 20-26 

What is used in the tank set up, substrate etc?

As water evaporates and the water level in the tank drops, the tds will rise slightly but that is normal and why you use pure RO water to top-up!

Have you got any shrimp in this tank and are they doing ok?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dont have the shrimp yet.

Actually my tank is since nov last year so its 1 year later and i decided to order shrimp in taiwan to check how it goes, because the first time that i buy caridina they all died because i only use filtered water. And now i have ro water and the diy minerals i want to see if they can survive so now i have 10 days lesft before the arrival of the shrimp. Im bother if its okay. Because taiwan said that my parameters is ok 60tds and 3gh thats ok.. so im doubting because to the other keepers im confused for there water parameters like i said i have known 2 breeders in taiwan they have  different water parameters and there in Australia and here in my country its different water parameters so im so very confused why are there so many water parameters for the caridina i thought that theres only one water parameters for caridina

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good to hear you have shrimps on the way and it is also good that you are getting things ready!

Just get the tank water to the best parameters and then check every day the tds, to see if it is stable, as mentioned previously. As there are no shrimp in the tank it is much safer and easier to do this now! The shrimp  being sent may be from tanks with very low parameters and therefore may be ok in tds 60 and GH3 and if that is the case (they are from a breeder with the low parameters) your best option may be to aim for around tds 100, GH4, ie the lower end of the usual 'ideal' parameter range to start off with, and you can then take time to slowly (weeks/months) increase those parameters from there once the shrimp are in the tank so they can slowly adapt?

When you get the shrimps you want to drip acclimate them to the tank water and the slower/longer you do that (3+ hours or more if possible) the better!

I understand why you may be confused as we have all seen different figures quoted by different sources. I suspect that the figure you quote of tds80, gh3 is your supplier/breeder and if so I recommend you set the tank up tds 100, gh4 for the starting point, and see if the tank holds those figures (only need to check tds daily) until the shrimp arrive in 10 days, topping up with RO water daily (if necessary) only. If the tds does decrease by a large amount rapidly then something is absorbing it so you need to identify what that is?

What shrimp have you ordered if you don't mind me asking?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im ordering

GFB boa genes grade S 

Blue bolt SS 

Crs and PRL 

blue bolt S 

My supplier said that the 60tds is ok and 3 gh and if its goes down like 40tds thats not ok but 60tds and 3gh thats fine he said. What do you think master is that ok? Because until now im confused please help me 😔

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Mac said:

Then when i put the water into my tank the tds become lower its about 60tds and 3gh 

Does the water in the tank have a lower TDS?

Are you using activated carbon?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is a great mix, blue bolts are one of my favourites. Lets hope this lot do better, they should!

I would still aim to get the tank ready at tds 100 and gh 4 (if tds 100 is gh 3 don't worry though) if it were mine, and then try and very slowly up it from there once the shrimp are settled and happy. The lower figures they may survive in, especially if they have lived in those since birth but it would be better to get them in their ideal range longer term!

If the tank water is only tds9 and you add the tds80 then the tank water will be diluting the tds 80 water. That is why you need to concentrate on the tank before the shrimp get here, and not just the 'new' added water!

Edited by sdlTBfanUK
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, markie said:

Yes its 9 tds 

Well, that's the reason the overall TDS in the tank is lower. 

 

4 minutes ago, markie said:

Do i need to put some minerals again to increase tds?

Yes. Add a little bit at a time until you get it to 100 TDS.

Edited by jayc
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why i need to increase the tds? 

Im so very confused right now masters. Because taiwan said that gh 3 - 4

80 tds 

I have many questions in my mind right now.. 😔

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

30 minutes ago, markie said:

Why i need to increase the tds? 

Because you said your TDS in the tank is 60. So if you want it to go up to 80 (or 100), you need to add more remineralising mix to the tank.

Don't get too caught up with getting it exactly the same as the breeder. 80ish to 100ish TDS is close enough. Just get close. Water parameters will never stay the same. But they key is to maintain it at a constant/stable parameter. So if you aim for 80 or 100 TDS in your tank, it doesn't matter so much. Just keep it at that level for the long term.

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are well out of my expertise if you want to go deeper into tds, it stands for 'total disolved solids' and therefore is what is disolved in the water as regards, metals, minerals etc. Why different types of shrimp need different quantities is beyond my knowledge, I just accept the fact! This is why I buy specific shrimp products like gh/kh+ as I let the experts get the balances correct. 

Obviously tds is easier to adjust as you are dealing with a different scale than gh, but by increasing the tds it will also increase the gh, but maybe not enough to show up on a gh test as it may be only say from 3.1 to 3.3 but the test kits only show whole numbers (so both would show gh 3 on a gh test kit), that is why it is more sensible to just use tds at this point, and that is easier to test anyway if you have a tds pen/meter. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

27 minutes ago, jayc said:

Because you said your TDS in the tank is 60. So if you want it to go up to 80 (or 100), you need to add more remineralising mix to the tank.

Don't get too caught up with getting it exactly the same as the breeder. 80ish to 100ish TDS is close enough. Just get close. Water parameters will never stay the same. But they key is to maintain it at a constant/stable parameter. So if you aim for 80 or 100 TDS in your tank, it doesn't matter so much. Just keep it at that level for the long term.

 

Is the tds is really important? To caridina? Because taiwan said that i need to focus on GH not to TDS

im really confused 😔

Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, sdlTBfanUK said:

You are well out of my expertise if you want to go deeper into tds, it stands for 'total disolved solids' and therefore is what is disolved in the water as regards, metals, minerals etc. Why different types of shrimp need different quantities is beyond my knowledge, I just accept the fact! This is why I buy specific shrimp products like gh/kh+ as I let the experts get the balances correct. 

Obviously tds is easier to adjust as you are dealing with a different scale than gh, but by increasing the tds it will also increase the gh, but maybe not enough to show up on a gh test as it may be only say from 3.1 to 3.3 but the test kits only show whole numbers (so both would show gh 3 on a gh test kit), that is why it is more sensible to just use tds at this point, and that is easier to test anyway if you have a tds pen/meter. 

This is my set up

IMG20221119192520.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is that a couple of snails (pink) you have in there?

How many shrimps have ordered (can't wait to see them in the tank)?

Have you got anything else ready, like Indian Almond leaves, Bater AE, shrimp food that you plan to use? I assume you are  lucky enough where you live that you won't need a heater either! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes its rams horn snail 

20pcs gfb boa genes s 

20pcs blue bolt ss 

20pcd PRL 

My temp now is around 25 to 26 😅 hoping they survive 😅 

I dont have indian almond leaves but i can get here in the roads 😅 bacter ae i dong have , food yes i have and i have also mulberry trees here hehe so i can get leaf's there hehe for food source also hehe

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ba careful where you get leaves from as any polution on/in them can kill the shrimp. Certainly leaves near/on roads I would stay well away from!

If you can get hold of bacter ae I would encourage that, it helps with biofilm growth etc. Assuming all goes well I would encourage some 'baby shrimp' food (powder) with that many shrimps as well, but wait and see if the new shrimp do well for 2-4 weeks first.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, markie said:

Is the tds is really important? To caridina? Because taiwan said that i need to focus on GH not to TDS.

The remineraliser you are using for will increase GH. And since it's easier to measure TDS with a TDS pen, we ask you to raise TDS to a certain point to get (close) to the desired GH.

SO yes, TDS is important. But so is GH, KH, pH and temperature. The point is not one parameter is more important than another. They all work together to get to the right parameter for shrimp or fish. If anyone tells you that one parameter is more important than the others, RUN away. 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I add minerals on my tank and its now around 80tds and the gh is 4 now if i still add minerals on it and make it 100tds theres posible the gh will become 5gh.  Is that ok that i set it in around 80?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, markie said:

sulfate, magnesium or potassium?

These all raise GH.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, markie said:

I add minerals on my tank and its now around 80tds and the gh is 4 now if i still add minerals on it and make it 100tds theres posible the gh will become 5gh.  Is that ok that i set it in around 80?

If your remineraliser is using just gh minerals then at tds 100 you will be at, or close to gh5. Shrimp specific commercial products that are gh+ have other minerals mixed in which add tds but not gh! Gh5 is ideal anyway under normal circumstances as it is in the middle of the accepted ideal range.

You are definitely getting the tank better suited if it is now tds 80 and if you feel happy leaving it at that then go with it. It should now stay at that (near enough) until the shrimp arrive as long as you top up to the same water level with pure RO water when the level drops from evaporation!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Water change needs to be remineralised to the parameters you want which should be very close to the tank water, in your case gh4 and tds 80! The new water should be added slowly (dripped if possible) when the shrimp are in the tank. I do about 10% change each week. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • Subtlefly
      Science fish has the water results 25/11/23 PH 7.4 Ammonia 0.0 Nitrite 0.0 Nitrate 10 ppm Hardness 70 Carb Hardness 3 Thanks all and have a great day
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Those are some great shrimp and the tank look awesome! The tiger shrimp are between neocaridina and caridina when it come to ease and toughness. They should be fine in the neocaridina tank until you are ready to transfer them to their new home. You may need to drip acclimate them when transferring them if the water parameters of the 2 tanks are different and I would just transfer a couple to start just to check as it hasn't been running for long. Also make sure you have finished with the additives/chemicals (especially ammonia) you are using before adding any shrimps, apart from bacter ae which is ok as I use regularly anyway and the tank is set up and running as it will be regularly, light time etc.. Being a small tank anyway you don't want to risk throwing the balance out by adding too many shrimps in one go at the very start. You may want to decide on one or other of the filters as you don't need 2 and are making extra work for yourself, but if you decide to remove 1, leave the sponge in the tank for a few weeks for the bacteria balance not to crash etc. From the way you have set it up the tank probably is cycled but there won't be much for the shrimp to graze on yet (another good reason to just do a couple for now). Be very cautious about using plant fertilizers, I know you don't have soil substrate, but I would try NO ferts from the start as the shrimp waste etc will be a source of fert. If you later find you do need fertilizer then be VERY cautious and use as little as you can get away with, but I suspect you snouldn't need any when you have the tank with enough shrimps in it. Aside from that you don't want the plants to grow quickly anyway in a small aquarium as that just makes a lot more work and disturbance. When dosing bacter ae (or any powder, inc food) I use a wood matchstick or similar, dip that quickly half a cm or cm in the water, then put it into the bacter ae, shake excess off and then swirl the matchstick in the tank, this way you don't get too much in the tank and it gets spread around more, and is just the easiest way all round. I would add 2 or 3 shrimps and if all goes ok for a week then transfer the remainder? Maybe do a 50%+ water change first because of all the stuff you have been using to get everything started? Good luck and i'll keep my fingers crossed!
    • Aqua67
      Does anyone keep tiger Caridina shrimp on inert substrate successfully?   I’m 1 week in to cycling a new 3.5 gallon aquarium for 5-10 super tiger shrimp.  I’m using plantable (small pebble) inert substrate which I sprinkled with Bacter AE when I set it up.  I’ve also mixed some Bacter AE with tank water and added it to the aquarium.  Three tiny ramshorn snails are now in the aquarium. I’m so anxious to add some tigers that right now are being kept with my neocaridina in a tank that is a couple of years old. Despite the tank being so small, I’ve added a separate tiny nano sponge filter and tiny air pump, in addition to the existing HOB filter with a course sponge over the intake, ceramic rings and the filter cartridge (right now with the carbon it came with - I usually slice the filter and shake all of the carbon out in all of my tanks), plus some old dirty filter floss from one of my established aquariums.  I couldn’t fit all of the filter material I took into the little HOB filter, so I do have a piece of dirty filter floss just sitting in the aquarium also. There is already many botanicals, some covered in thick fungus/biofilm, which have been soaking in the water for the full week.  That includes catappa bark and leaf, an oak leaf, casuarina cone, alder cone.  There is a lot of plants, although not the stem/rooted kind.  There is a small bolbitis herteroclita, a could tiny windelov ferns, a rosette sword that stays small, a coconut moss covered arch, a rock covered in moss, and a piece of cholla wood covered in black pearl Bruce which had been sitting in an established tank for several months.  One Thrive fertilizer table is sitting under the sword plant and a small dose of Flourish Excel was added which probably bumped up my TDS some. I’ve added a few drops of household ammonia last week but checked the next day and never had any ammonia reading when I tested.  Now I don’t want to add any more ammonia because the ingredients on the bottle indicate added “fragrance” which I don’t think is good for my aquarium.   I have been added Stability from the start in addition to the Quick Start.  There is no algae growing in the tank yet, but I have left the 6500K lights on 24/7 over this past week.  I realize this may have slowed some bacterial growth initially. TDS this morning was around 165 and I did a small water change to bring it back down to 150. I am so anxious to begin to add some tiger shrimp to the new little aquarium.  I did a similar process with my neocaridina back when I first acquired them and my tank was about a week old when I added the bloody Mary’s and I suffered no losses.  Might I be as lucky with Caridina Cantonensis? Thanks for reading my post.  I attached some pics of the subject shrimp currently living in my neo tank and my new little empty aquarium.  
    • jayc
      @beanbag,  Anything that is likely shrimp safe is probably not going to harm these "Shell bugs" either. Have you tried anything that is not safe for shrimps, but in super low doses? That might kill the shell bugs but not the shrimp.   Here are some meds, USE WITH CAUTION and only in a hospital tank for experimentation of this specific case, namely, to find something that will kill "Shell Bugs". Trichlorfon/Dylox is useful for treatment of: Hydra, Lernia (Anchor Worms), Parasitic Copepods, Monodigenetic and Digenetic Flukes, Fish Lice (Argulus), Leeches.   Malachite Green - has some use in controlling protozoan parasites. Might work in this case too. Formalin - targets similar parasites like MG above. Often used in combination with MG.   Copper sulfate products - like Cupramine. For treatment of freshwater and marine ich (Cryptocaryon), Oodinium, external parasites, fungus, shimmy, and even algae (especially in ponds).    Kordon's Fish Therapy Bath - use of citrus oils (oils include citrus, neem, and lavender oils) to treat termites, fleas, etc. Lavender Oil also has repellent abilities. Neem oil is reported to be effective as an insecticide as well as some anti-inflammation properties, anti-fungal and limited anti-bacterial.     A lot of meds target bacterial symptoms, so I have avoided listing them above.  Good luck, and remember - Don't treat the main tank with this. Only use these meds in a hospital tank. 
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Sorry to hear you are still having this issue! You could try another aquarium but I would keep everything new and seperate so it will be a slow process. I would get new shrimps for it as well when it is ready! My 'incident' with the heater caused the new trial to not work and I don't really know why to this day? I don't think there was anything wrong with the setup or tank, it worked before the incident well and I used all new stuff except the tank. It has put me off trying again so that tank is still empty and I keep looking at it thinking I should try again (then I think of what that involves), but after the last attempt failing for some unknown reason I can't get the incentive to try again as it is such a long, expensive, time consuming process which may just fail again! It is very frustrating, as you know, when you can't work out why it fails and everything seems 'ideal'.  My betta is doing well and has some red cherry shrimps in with him and a friend gave me some small slightly blue snails and they are breeding wildly, so that tank is doing very well! Good luck and hopefully you'll keep us informed/updated.    
×
×
  • Create New...