Jump to content

Low Tech Nano Shrimp Tank (2-5 GL)


CrookiestoPro9991
 Share

Recommended Posts

I wonder if anyone use mangrove as a way to control ammonia/nitrites level like me? I found it very effective as I only have a cheap slim nano HOB filter and LED light for my tank. My plants grow relatively well without the CO2 as well fertilizer. What about yours? I’d love to learn more about what you have for low tech tanks like me. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My setups are about as lowtech and simple as you can get!

I have 3 tanks, 25L with a male betta & cull shrimp (from main tank), 30L with about 10 mosquito Rasbora and cull shrimp (from main tank), and 30L main tank with Red cherry shrimps with ember tetra and neon tetra. All tanks have aquasoil with plants and wood, and just have cheap/simple sponge filters (not HOB) with spray bar, and a heater and lights. Thats it.

Plants do very well, though I probably don't have anything that is exotic or highly demanding. I am forever giving away plants or discarding them..........

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

May I see photos of your filter setup? I’m a DIY folk, before this filter type, I used to build a fountain with a cheap mini pump from Amazon and use lava rock and ceramic rings and mangrove roots plans in a chamber as my filter. It was my first time for a shrimp tank also just about 2GL and I had like a colony of bloody and cherry shrimps with so many shrimplets so I guess it was a success. But due to some unexpected events when it was at its best yet I was away for quite some time and no one took care of it so all the adults gone and surprisingly few shrimplets make it when the tank almost dried out!!! It’s broke my heart to see that. So after some time I restart it and use HOB filters (they are about $10) and surprisingly  I have encountered more issues this time! ? I just used those recommended aqua soil for substrate, some seiyu rocks and Okha dragons for the fountain setup and simple low maintenance plants for my aquascape. It’s pretty much the same for this time. Maybe I’m the one who is always lucky at my first shot but not so much at my second trial ? it happened the same for my cooking as well lmao 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Below is a link to a filter the same as I use, very basic/simple, sponge and a pump;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384939056024?hash=item59a027db98:g:ZEQAAOSwUmhieHTi

The ones I use have a seperate cap on the base, I remove that so there is more open area of sponge, and to remove the sponge for cleaning I just turn the whole unit 90 degrees on the glass and can then pull the sponge out, literally takes a few seconds and no dismantling/seperating of any of the unit. I use 2 of these in each of the bigger tanks.

I don't use anything other than the sponge or CO2 or Fertilizer in any tank! 

I know how you feel about losing a whole tank full of shrimps, that happened to me when a heater stuck on and cooked them............... My second attempted didn't work and so the rasbora are in that tank for now. My first time with the taiwan bee shrimp was a terrific success and that was started with a small 3 gallon tank and then moved to a bigger tank (?), maybe that is partly the secret to success?

I like your fountain idea, it sounds very interesting. Did that incorporate some form of filter?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The filter looks like one of the model of Dennerle version for nano tank I came across in some websites. To answer your questions on my filter fountain DIY, yes it works as a internal filter with the chamber. I guess it did a better job than what I have now since have to replace the filter quite often. The way I did with the first attempt didn’t have to replace anything but it would take a bit some time for everything in stable but once it does, I don’t have to do much of maintenance. The mangrove roots helps stabilize the nitrites or ammonia very well if you have appropriate amount of them! Some shrimps even climb up to the fountain and like to stay there 😂 I don’t know if I can find an old photos of it or not. If I can find one I’ll post it here but the quality of the photo might not be best 😂 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • beanbag
      yes, it's the shed shells. now that I think about it, I also remember in the video the bugs were clear, and I have seen clear ones before too, a long time ago.  But these recent ones were dark colored. So I have two tanks.  In one of them, where I normally have this problem, I have been dosing antibiotics.  The short version is that most of the shadow panda and RWP shrimp have got this disease, but they haven't died either.  But they don't recover either.  They just simply stop growing and stay at a small size with stumpy short antenna.  The first shadow panda that got this problem is still alive maybe 2-3 months later. In my other tank which often doesn't have this problem also got it, but it seems to have hit harder, where both "almost adult" shadow panda suddenly got it and died within a few days.  Antibiotics didn't save them.  It's too weird - it seems like this problem comes on suddenly, with no trigger that I can think of.  (besides "the weather was warm and I ran the air conditioned".  This doesn't actually affect the water temperatures since I have a chiller, but maybe something blew into the tank?)
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Sorry for the delay, I have been searching on here and the wider web but cannot find what you are referring too! I do know which video you are talking about and remember seeing it. The video was of a shed shell rather than a live shrimp! Are you seeing them on live shrimp? From memory I don't think it was anything to worry about and I very much doubt it would discriminate between different colours of shrimp, but was probably nothing to worry about and just part of the life in aquariums, like detritus worms and other life forms. I think they were colourless in the video, if my memory is any good? Are you still getting shadow panda deaths?
    • beanbag
      Hello folks, I remember reading about this a few years ago but for the life of me cannot find this info / thread again. Can somebody point me to a link for this info? I forgot the forum I saw it on. There was a discussion about how if you look at a shrimp molt shell under a microscope or loupe, sometimes you can see tiny "bugs" or whatever moving around inside. At that time, I think the conclusion was that maybe it was a symbiotic relationship because it even happened with healthy shrimp. But I can't remember if this occurred only in neocaridina or caridina also? I just happened to look at a shadow panda's (caridina) shell who is sick with the "shortened antenna disease" that I always complained about. There were tiny blue/black spots moving around inside.  I also looked at the molt shells of some blue bolts that don't have this problem, and there were very few, or none, spots moving around inside the molt shell. I wonder if this could be some symbiotic relationship gone wrong and is the actual (proximate) cause of the problem.  (Since antibiotics didn't really seem to work) In that case, I would need some kind of anti-parasite medication to cure the shrimps.  What are the typical internal anti-parasite medications for shrimps?
    • sdlTBfanUK
      You may end up losing this batch entirely but then you can start completely fresh and get the aquarium set up right for the next batch of shrimp! If you do any large water changes then try and add the new water slowly, either dripper or some other way. You should get yourself a TDS meter (as JayC above), they are cheap and readily available. You should always use a GH tester kit as well with shrimps, if you do the 50% water change that should halve the GH so you should get a reading after that, or if you can get a local fish store to test it for you that will give you an idea of the GH. If your water supply is as hard as it appears it may be you will need to mull over how (or even IF) you want to keep shrimps as that may mean using RO or distilled/bottled water and buying a proper shrimp specific remineraliser? That will be quite expensive but you won't then have to mess about adding crushed coral/eggshells etc, but only you can decide whether you want to do/spend that much etc? If you live somewhere that gets a lot of rain, then you can use rain water? Also, as JayC states, you need to know what you are using/adding to the water and aquarium, ie fertilizers, rocks. Unless you have very exotic plants you shouldn't need any fertilizers. Just as a note, we have come across quite a few experienced fish keeprs that have this sort of start off issues with shrimp. Shrimp are more difficult than fish, and the aquarium and water etc need to be ready and within the required parameters before getting the shrimps. Usually people jump in, get the shrimps before everything is ready/sorted. Hopefully though you will keep at it, or if this lot die you will have another go and we can help you get it sorted?
    • jayc
      These are all classic symptoms of shrimp moulting problems.   Again, another high GH symptom. High GH not only causes harder carapace (shell), but it also makes eggs harder. When the egg is harder the male finds it more difficult to fertilise the eggs.   That's a worry if you can't get a good GH reading because that is going to be most likely issue right now for you.   Because snails don't moult.    If you dont already have a TDS meter, I suggest getting one asap. It's another test to narrow down your water parameters, and not have to trust one test by it's own - in this case the GH test kit. I would wager your water parameter is too high in dissolved minerals - likely from the tap water source, fertiliser dosing and/or any rocks/crushed corals you might have in the tank. To remedy this, you need to start doing water changes with RO, distilled or rain water immediately. I would do a 50% water change with RO water asap. Then look for sources that increase GH in the tank and eliminate it - fertilisers, rocks, crush corals, shells.    It's difficult to save a shrimp who's carapace is already too hard, but hopefully any younger shrimps will benefit from the water change and the reduced GH.   Good luck and keep us updated.
×
×
  • Create New...