Jump to content

Question


Hammy

Recommended Posts

When shrimp breed will/does the male stay around to help protect the female or is it a slam bam thank you mam bye. Type deal? I ask because I’m new to keeping shrimp and I have a female that’s got eggs and she isn’t happy when any other shrimp come near she just keeps moving away from them all, all except one male shrimp she is happy to have him about. I’m not concerned about it I’m just curious to know if it’s natural behaviour 

Edited by Hammy
Deleted the picture
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is just a case of they mate and that is it, they don't pair up as far as I am aware!

Is the planaria treatmrnt working ok? Also, is the salt baths working?

Simon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Everything seems to be yeah I’m not seeing anything I stopped doing the baths about two days ago and I’ve put them back into the tank with the others today actually and I’ve not seen any increase in the hydra I do still have one tiny tiny one on the glass but I’m positive it’s getting smaller and not bigger so I’m hoping that’s sorted. I’m due to give it a water change but I was wondering if I could/should give it another treatment or would that be a bad idea. all my stats are where they should be. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The eggs you see being carried by the female have already been fertilised.  She is carrying them until they hatch. The male responsible is long gone.  She might be giving other males the cold shoulder because she is not receptive and wont be until the next moult by which time the current load of eggs will generally have hatched.  Occasionally the timing will get skewed such that the female moults before all the eggs have hatched and the eggs will be shed with the old exoskeleton but generally speaking this isn't "the plan".

Edited by Grubs
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think you shouldn't do a water change whilst doing the treatment (will dilute the treatment) for planaria, which is a week I think, then you can do one, Tuesday/Wednesday. By then there shouldn't be any planaria left so I don't think I would do another treatment at this stage, but at least you have it to hand should it recur at some point in the future.

As grubs points out about the eggs, and you had very few hydra anyway, I would avoid doing a large water change though, as that can cause a shrimp to moult and you don't want that happening to the one carrying the eggs!

Simon

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ve managed to find a better bigger tank it’s a 64ltr panoramic tank I would like to transfer what I have in my tiny 15ltr to the bigger tank what would you guys do to achieve this I'm not in any rush but obviously I would like to do it right. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

57 minutes ago, Hammy said:

what would you guys do to achieve this

Set up the new tank how you like it to end up looking and start the Nitrogen cycling process.

Add another sponge filter in the existing 15Ltr tank right now, so bacteria start to grow on it. This filter will be transferred to the new tank after a month.

Any water change done in the 15ltr tank should be dumped into the new 64ltr tank.

Once the new tank is cycled and the parameters are close to the old tank, you can start acclimation of the shrimp to the new tank.

Edited by jayc
  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

How exciting, you should have great fun setting that up and laying it all out, that's a good size tank! JayC has covered the process! What type of substrate are you going to use, some have a starting process of their own, usually 2 weeks?

Hope everything else is going to plan?

Simon

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah everything is going great (touch wood) I’ve not had anymore deaths and I’m pretty sure I have gotten on top of my vorticela problem I’ve not seen anything to make me think otherwise and also the hydra that I could see well I can’t anymore so I’m happy knowing that’s working. To be honest I never thought I’d enjoy it this much I’m learning loads of new stuff it’s great 

I was thinking about taking one of my sponges out of my external filter and putting that in the new tank along with the rest of the dr Tim’s I have left what do you think 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

With my tanks, they usually have 2 filters and I put one of the sponges from one in any new tank, but there needs to be more than one sponge otherwise it will upset the old tank! As long as there is not an excessive amount of dr tims left, that should be ok, but I would add half at the start and the rest 2 weeks later as there may not be enough in the tank to keep all the bacteria alive!

I use Bacter AE in my tanks, it may be worth getting some of that, pro-shrimp have it in stock. 

Once all the plants etc are in place in the new tank it may be as well to treat for planaria/hydra before you start transferring any shrimp as a precaution, and you already have it to hand anyway.

Great to hear you are enjoying learning as you go, so many people would just give up with the problems you have had, but you are doing very well.

Simon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers I appreciate you saying and my filter has three different filter size sponges and then at the very bottom it has what the box called bio balls but to me they’re just plastic balls with fins I have now learned it’s to give them more surface for bacteria. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So what I’m thinking of doing is to fill just over half way and adding half of the Dr Tim’s and the top sponge from my filter to give the Dr Tim’s more surface area I was thinking about using the rest of the fluval full mineral stratum and I have some new growth that I can remove from the little tank to put into the new tank. Also I have a lot of new snails that have emerged so I was thinking about adding some of them 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That all sounds good, the snails will produce some waste to fuel the bacteria and I don't think there is any prep required with that substrate as it is volcanic!

Will you be transferring the filter system from the 15L, or do you plan to get a new/separate one for the new tank?

Simon

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah I’m wanting to put the external filter on the new tank it’s 400ltrs an hour and says it’s good for any tank up-to 150ltrs. Also I think it’s more pleasing to the eye two almost see through pipes are better than the big black filters that sit in the tank in my opinion also the noise is a big difference I can hardly hear the external one running 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The filter system will have the majority of the bacteria so you could probably transfer everything over safely in a couple of weeks rather than waiting a whole month probably! Doing regular Ammonia/nitrite/nitrate tests should show some signs it is cycling ok etc! If you plan to shut down the 15L then just transfer everything to the new tank, water, substrate etc on transfer day, whilst you acclimate the shrimps!

Simon

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Hammy said:

Yeah I’m wanting to put the external filter on the new tank it’s 400ltrs an hour and says it’s good for any tank up-to 150ltrs. Also I think it’s more pleasing to the eye two almost see through pipes are better than the big black filters that sit in the tank in my opinion also the noise is a big difference I can hardly hear the external one running 

400lph on a 64ltr tank seems a bit like overkill, especially for a shrimp tank. There’s a chance you could have too much flow, and the shrimp wouldn’t appreciate it.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

400l/h is as you say overkill but it shouldn't be too much of a problem if the tank is specifically set up to avoid any strong flow, or if the water outlet is something like a water fall. My old shrimp tank is 30L and has 2x100l/h. Also Hammy is using that same filter system already in the 15L tank???

Hammy, try to avoid too much water movement in the new tank setup with the filter you have as, as crabby states, shrimp don't like strong water flow, there may be many different ways of doing this dependant on the system outlet type/design, for instance in my betta tank I have a sponge (meant to cover inlet tubes) covering the filter outlet, as betta don't like flow either!

Simon

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wasn’t aware of the shrimp not liking any flow that being said My filter has a flow restrictor on it so I can adjust how strong also the outlet has the waterfall fitted and is facing almost directly towards the glass I’ve had it set up like that for a while now and to be completely honest with you two of the shrimp seem to enjoy it they will swim back add fourth through the flow and also try to swim up the flow as I sit and watch them. Oh also my inlet has extremely small holes and thin slices to try and not let anything else other than waste in but after reading the post I think I’ll cover it with a sponge just to be on safe side. Thanks for the information guys 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It maybe a good idea to put sponge over the inlet as the pull of the water with 400l/h may be strong and you won't want any nay shrimps draw  into the filter. I would get course sponge so it doesn't restrict the flo inward too much, and you will need to keep removing it and squeezing it in a cup of tank water every so often (maybe twice a week should be sufficient, but you won't really know until you try) so it doesn't get blocked and burn out the pump motor! You will probably see shrimp grazing on it often. As you say, occasionally the shrimp will swim in the flow of water but generally most of the time they prefer quite still water.

Simon

Edited by sdlTBfanUK
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah that’s not a problem because I have to take the inlet end of once a week or two to remove any waste that wasn’t able to get in. The spaces in the end cap are less than a mm ive had week old snails all over it and they have had zero problems but I would rather be on the safe side with the shrimp thanks again 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great advice from the seasoned shrimpkeepers to those new to the hobby.

That's why I love this forum. ?

Edited by jayc
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Honestly I can’t tell you however in my aquarium I have a pump that mimics the current and I have seen my shrimp swimming in it (the current not the pump lol ) I’ve been told that they don’t like the current however that’s not my experience from watching them. Hopefully this was helpful. Simon and JC will be able to give you more information than myself I’m still relatively new to keeping shrimp 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • beanbag
      Update to say that after a few gravel vacs, front wall scrub, moss / floating plant trim, that the condition seems to have improved.  My current theory is that it is due to waste / debris management, where "stuff" like that brown mulm accumulates in the substrate and behind the HMF filters.  Maybe some tanks can somehow deal with it, but mine can't.  Also another experienced shrimper suggested that maybe those "shell bugs" don't just live on the shrimps but also in this debris.  Maybe this is the reason some tanks fail due to "old tank syndrome" where all they need is a good gravel vac? Also, I am guessing that plant trim helps too because now more of the nutrients and light go into growing algae instead of more plants? Well anyway for this tank I will try weekly water change and monthly gravel vac / plant trim.  For my next tank, I'm thinking of something like an under-gravel system where this mulm can fall down and I vac it out.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Good to have an update and good to hear you are getting shrimplets, so hopefully your colony will continue and you may not get to the point where you have to cull some to stop over population. These type of shrimp only live 12 - 18 months so the adult deaths may be natural? If you have the time I would do weekly 25% water changes, adding the new water via a drip system and do some vacuuming clean of the substrate each week, even if only a different bit each week! See if that helps in a few months and if it does then stick with that regime? It should help reduce any build-ups that may be occuring!
    • beanbag
      Hello again, much belated update: The tank still has "cycles" of 1-2 month "good streaks" where everybody seems to be doing well, and then a bad streak where the short antenna problem shows up again, and a shrimp dies once every few days.  I am not sure what causes things to go bad, but usually over the course of a few days I will start to see more shrimp quietly standing on the HMF filter, and so I know something is wrong.  Since I am not "doing anything" besides the regular 1-2 week water changes, I just assume that something bad is building up.  Here's a list of things that I've tried that are supposed to be "can't hurt" but didn't prevent the problem either: Dose every other day with Shrimp Fit (very small dose, and the shrimp seem to like it) Sotching Oxydator Seachem Purigen to keep the nitrates lower Keeping the pH below 5.5 with peat Things that I don't do often, so could possibly "reset" the tank back to a good streak, are gravel vac and plant trim, so maybe time to try those again. One other problem I used to have was that sometimes a shrimp would suddenly stop eating with a full or partially full digestive tract that doesn't clear out, and then the shrimp will die within a few days.  I suspected it was one of the foods in my rotation - Shrimp Nature Infection, which contains a bunch of herbal plant things.  I've had this in my food rotation for a few years now and generally didn't seem to cause problems, but I removed it from the rotation anyway.  I don't have a lot of adult Golden Bees at this point so I can't really tell if it worked or not. Overall the tank is not too bad - during the good streaks occasionally a shrimp will get berried and hatch babies with a 33-50% survival rate.  So while there are fewer adults now, there are also a bunch of babies roaming around.  I guess this tank will stagger on, but I really do need to take the time to start up a new tank.  (or figure out the problem)
    • jayc
      If that is the offspring, then the parents are unlikely to be PRL. I tend to agree with you. There are very few PRLs in Australia. And any that claim to be needs to show proof. PRL genes have to start as PRL. CRS that breed true after x generations doesn't turn it into a PRL. Neither can a Taiwan bee shrimp turn into a PRL despite how ever many generations. I've never seen a PRL with that sort of red colour. I have on Red Wines and Red Shadows - Taiwan bee shrimps. So somewhere down the line one of your shrimp might have been mixed with Taiwan bees and is no longer PRL. It just tanks one shrimp to mess up the genes of a whole colony. 
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Sorry, missed this one somehow! The PRL look fantastic and the odd ones look part PRL and part Red wine/Red shadow in the colour. They are still very beautiful but ideally should be seperated to help keep the PRL clean if you can do that.  Nice clear photos!
×
×
  • Create New...