Jump to content

Hall of Fame members


jayc

Recommended Posts

Dear SKFA,

Moderators on SKFA are allocated a larger limit for Attachments and Private Messages (PM) in order to assist the forum members. However, when that moderator retired and went back to a normal Member account their limits for Attachments and Private Messages would revert to the normal membership limits. Thereby crippling the ex-moderators ability to continue contributing to the forum with new attachments or PMs. The only option previously was to delete attachments from past posts, so that space is made available to upload new attachments.

It is not in the interest of SKFA to have the content and posts from these great contributors be deleted if the ex-moderator wanted to continue to contribute to the forum as a normal member.

The site Administrator and the current SKFA Mods have come to an agreement to honour past contributors, like ex-moderators, who have made a significant contribution to this forum by creating a special account called "Hall of Fame".

 @ineke becomes our first Hall of Fame (HOF) inductee!

Ineke's account will be given a unique ability to post additional Attachments and PMs above the normal Member account limits.

Hall of Fame account holders will be donated by the "HOF" acronym below their name and avatar.

Hopefully this encourages ex-SKFA moderators to continue to be valuable Members in this community without hampering their ability to upload attachments or PMs.

 

Limits to normal Member and Platinum Member accounts remain unchanged.

 

Please note: that nomination into the Hall of Fame account is at the discretion of the SKFA site Admin and Mods only. Self nominations will not be accepted.

 

 

Edited by jayc
  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • HOF Member

Thank you so much. This is really awesome especially under the circumstances. I intend to be more active on the forum again so being able to use pictures makes it even more enticing to put in an appearance. 

Thanks again 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is my great pleasure to announce a Hall of Fame (HOF) inductee.

Congrats @NoGi !!

Nogi was the original owner, and moderator of this great forum.

Posting limits for Nogi has been increased so he can make valuable contributions here without having to delete previous content.

I personally would like to see what other mad scientist stuff he has in store. And show me what you can do with that 3D printer you have.

 

Thanks @Cesar for adding our new HOF member.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • HOF Member

Thanks team.

This was my final design and print. No more shrimp being sucked up into the 407 now.

IMG_1649.thumb.jpeg.8dce11ab40e06cf5935c58f0e9d30adf.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      I just watched the video again. With that tank I would take 1 of the sponges and put it in the left compartment (where he put the heater in the vid) and the heater can go in the middle section with the other sponge, so that would work well and be very simple and no extra costs or modification involved. The water level in the back drops either because the pump is set too fast (if it is adjustable) or mostlly just because the sponge directly behind the inlet slots is getting blocked. Somtimes just pressing the sponge insitu at the top will blow some of the gunk back into the tank, but you will probably need to take the sponge out weekly to clean it, though I imagine you would probably do weekly water change/maintenance anyway. The tank in the video is also quite good because the back is covered so that will help with reducing evaporation from the back working part, mine was open/uncovered at the back so evaporation was more of a problem. I freaked out when I saw the level drop in the back the first time, especially as I had a glass type heater in the back! If you only very rarely need a heater then you could just put that in the main part of the tank on those rare occasions to be safer? As you say, you have time to see if you even need a heater but I suspect you won't as indoors will be warmer than the outside temperature overnite, and I have seen vids on youtuube where some Australians keep Neocaridina shrimp outside all year with no heaters in huge tanks or even ponds, and I doubt there is anywhere in the world where the temperatures don't fluctuate between night and day so all creatures must be ok with that (within limits of coarse).  My problem last week was the same only opposite, overnite it dropped to about 13 degrees outside but inside overnite it rose to 28 because the sun had heated the roof etc all day, so I did lose a few shrimps then (but they are Caridina so not as adaptable or tough as cherry shrimp), only babys though strangely? Of coarse, it's your winter now, whereas it is our summer. Do you have A/C in the house for the summer, even Neocaridina won't survive much over 30? I only have a portable room one which requires a tube out of the window hense I couldn't leave it running overnight as it is a ground floor room!
    • DemonCat
      Thanks for the response and interest! I'm planning on ignoring everything about the filter media provided and will do my own thing. But yes, a simple idea to save shrimp is put the filter right next to the intake bit.. I hadn't thought about that and was already thinking about adding mesh... your idea is much better and straightforward.  In regards to heater, where we are in Australia it gets 40 degrees in summer, but we had -7 last week at night.. this morning was a much warmer -3! The heating in the office is a bit whack too... it seems to be boiling hot or freezing cold, so the heater is something i'll just play 'wait and see' with. I don't propose to stock for a while anyway so will have substantial time to monitor the temperature and see if/how/when a heater is needed.  I saw a short youtube video on the water level at the back.. I'm glad I watched it / you told me because if I went in without knowing I'd be freaking out the first time I noticed it. 
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I had a very similar tank to the petworx one and they are very clean to look at and easy to maintain, but obviously you are losing some volume/floor area for the shrimps to inhabit. You will probably need to work something out so the shrimp don't get through to the back area, especially babies (sponge behind the slots etc) - you may be able to just move part of the sponge to that compartment looking at this video:  I would only get a 25w heater, I learned my lesson when my 50w stuck on and cooked the shrimps in my 35L tank. 25w should be adequate as you have a much warmer climate, in fact do you really even need a heater? One drawback with this type of setup is that the level of water in the back can drop drastically when the sponge starts to get clogged, though this is mainly only a problem with the heater which may break in insuficient water, or the pump in really severe circumstances. You will need to clean the sponges at least weekly.  The level drop in the back can look quite alarming when you first see it happening.  The other makes may also have the same issues? I would have thought nearer $250 as it already has a light and pump, and if you don't need a heater? I tried the 'let the idea fade away', but it keeps returning???
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I am still thinking it is 50/50 at this stage and will see what happens after another month! Th parameters seem to be slowly getting there, when I tested a few days ago, PH 6.5, KH 0-1, GH 6-7, TDS 150. I have around 10 shrimp left (25 were put in a month ago) but we did have a few hot days which ran together last week which killed at least a few, tank water got to 28 overnight, got a/c during the day, but that requires having the window open for the exhaust hose when running so a bit risky to leave it running all night. I may invest in some specific cooling if this works out for longer with shrimps, but we don't get much hot weather in the UK usually? The remaining shrimp seem fine, swimming about and coming out when I add food. I tried shrimp lollies but they aren't bothered with those at all so they seem to be just a good way of gathering snails to remove and keep their numbers down. If most of the remaining shrimp survive another month I will likely try some more, and by then hopefully ALL the parameters will be good and within the acceptable range as only GH seems to be a bit off. If I didn't have the shrimps in the tank I would try another 50% water change, but for now I will just see what happens in the next month with regular weekly water changes and running/parameter testing etc.
    • DemonCat
      Looks very nice! Similar scope to what I'm looking to do so am snooping for inspiration!   After another few weeks, how is everyone going? 
×
×
  • Create New...