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Zebra Babaulti Shrimp death help


fango0000
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Hi everyone, 

 

I got about 15 Zebra Babaulti shrimps a few weeks ago and I've been losing a shrimp every 3-4 days since I've got them. I'm honestly not sure why since my tank is mature and the parameters seem to check out. I was wondering if anybody has any insight?  Thanks!

My current tank setup:
- 16 gallon tank w/ fluval 107 canister and rain bar
- Black fluorite sand substrate with lots plants (anubias, moss)
- Boiled malaysian driftwood and rocks
- RO water re-mineralized with saltyshrimp gh/kh
- pH 7.8
- Gh = 8, kH = 3.5
- Temp = 76-81F
- Nitrites 0, ammonia 0, nitrates <5
- a daily small pinch of Bacter AE and shrimpbaby 
- daily 5mm of shrimp king complete sticks
- The only other thing in the tank is an established colony of yellowback neocaridinas who are thriving and breeding.

183424804_924333365049250_4475283202934950467_n.jpg

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I don't see anything out of place with those parameters.

Can you ask what parameters they were kept in from the place you bought them? maybe they were kept in very different water parameters.

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I also don't see anything wrong with those parameters and from what I've read they like very similar to the neocaridina!

At this point just keep an eye on them, I almost always lose a ew shrimp in the first 2 weeks, especially caridina. If the yellow neocaridina are thriving then there isn't likely to be anything wrong as such with the tank or parameters, but caridina are much more sensitive so  just keep an eye on them for now. 

What water are you using, tap or RO? Neocaridina tend to be ok in tap water, but caridina very rarely do well with tap water even if it has the right parameters (also my experience in the past)!

How many of them are still alive? Where did y get them from, local shop, through post etc?

Before the covid madness I had considered trying the babaulti.

It is probably wiser to wait and watch a it longer as usually messing around with different things can cause more problems than it solves and there may actually not be anything wrong anyway. Keep us updated!

Simon

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@jayc, Here are the parameters from the seller: image.png.e6ea370e7862cab450a51da98ed01f2a.png

- The only real difference I see is the temperature, although it seems babaultis should be able to go up to 80. 
( I don't have a water chiller so I'm not sure if I can keep the water any cooler in the summer haha.)

 

@sdlTBfanUK, I am using RO water (7-10tds) and remineralizing with saltyshrimp Gh/kh+  to about 180-200 TDS with a gh of 8 and kh of 3-4. 

Right now I think 5 or 6 of them are still alive from my original 15. I got them through a local seller in California. 

 

I'm crossing my fingers that they settle down and no more die. I would really like a breeding a colony of them! 

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I don't think the temperature should be a prolem as they prefer warmer water than neocaridina going by the book I have?

I didn't realise you had lost so many, sorry to hear that, that is a higher death rate than would be acceptable/usual! Everything looks like it should be ok from what you have divulged, I also am keeping my fingers crossed these last ones survive!

Those parameters from the seller are the ranges, not HIS ACTUAL tank water parameters.

Simon

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yeah, I'm hoping my last 5 make it. I'm honestly a bit at wits end.


I don't think there's anything else I can think of about the tank to list. I also added a bubbling airstone today so perhaps the extra oxygenation will help. I do want to mention that the babaultis seem to not come forward and eat the shrimp king complete sticks that I use (or any of the 5 other feeds (maulbeere, krautermix, ultra supple, etc) and I'm a bit confused at that as well. Do they have some kind of special food they prefer? 

Hoping if anyone else with babaulti shrimp experience could chime in with some insight ?

Edited by fango0000
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21 hours ago, fango0000 said:

Hoping if anyone else with babaulti shrimp experience could chime in with some insight 

Have they not eaten since you got them?

Try frozen blood worms. And report back if they eat that or not.

Edited by jayc
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    • sdlTBfanUK
      You may end up losing this batch entirely but then you can start completely fresh and get the aquarium set up right for the next batch of shrimp! If you do any large water changes then try and add the new water slowly, either dripper or some other way. You should get yourself a TDS meter (as JayC above), they are cheap and readily available. You should always use a GH tester kit as well with shrimps, if you do the 50% water change that should halve the GH so you should get a reading after that, or if you can get a local fish store to test it for you that will give you an idea of the GH. If your water supply is as hard as it appears it may be you will need to mull over how (or even IF) you want to keep shrimps as that may mean using RO or distilled/bottled water and buying a proper shrimp specific remineraliser? That will be quite expensive but you won't then have to mess about adding crushed coral/eggshells etc, but only you can decide whether you want to do/spend that much etc? If you live somewhere that gets a lot of rain, then you can use rain water? Also, as JayC states, you need to know what you are using/adding to the water and aquarium, ie fertilizers, rocks. Unless you have very exotic plants you shouldn't need any fertilizers. Just as a note, we have come across quite a few experienced fish keeprs that have this sort of start off issues with shrimp. Shrimp are more difficult than fish, and the aquarium and water etc need to be ready and within the required parameters before getting the shrimps. Usually people jump in, get the shrimps before everything is ready/sorted. Hopefully though you will keep at it, or if this lot die you will have another go and we can help you get it sorted?
    • jayc
      These are all classic symptoms of shrimp moulting problems.   Again, another high GH symptom. High GH not only causes harder carapace (shell), but it also makes eggs harder. When the egg is harder the male finds it more difficult to fertilise the eggs.   That's a worry if you can't get a good GH reading because that is going to be most likely issue right now for you.   Because snails don't moult.    If you dont already have a TDS meter, I suggest getting one asap. It's another test to narrow down your water parameters, and not have to trust one test by it's own - in this case the GH test kit. I would wager your water parameter is too high in dissolved minerals - likely from the tap water source, fertiliser dosing and/or any rocks/crushed corals you might have in the tank. To remedy this, you need to start doing water changes with RO, distilled or rain water immediately. I would do a 50% water change with RO water asap. Then look for sources that increase GH in the tank and eliminate it - fertilisers, rocks, crush corals, shells.    It's difficult to save a shrimp who's carapace is already too hard, but hopefully any younger shrimps will benefit from the water change and the reduced GH.   Good luck and keep us updated.
    • professionalshrimphugger
      United States. I have tested my tap water; it yields the same results. GH: ??, KH: 3, pH: 7.8. I cannot say for sure if my GH test is faulty or not, the expiration is until 2023. It's more of a twitching, then stasis. I have one shrimp that's having a hard time balancing itself, but it's swimmerets and mouth keep moving in attempt in getting back up. I allowed it to stick to my sponge filter. The tank is cycled. I used established media. Readings would not show 0 otherwise. I do use EI Dosing, half dosage recommended for a 20 gallon. It has been said on other forums that it does not affect shrimp, but I stopped dosing to isolate variables a week ago. No CO2, that's too costly for me, hah. I drip acclimated the shrimp for 2 hours, 1 drop per second. I tested for copper in my tank, nothing. Funnily enough, my mystery snails in my community tank don't seem too affected by it.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Sorry to hear you are having a problem! Where are you based in the world? Can you test your tapwater GH/KH/PH? Best to know what the source water is, dechlorinated (if required) before you have ADDED anything. Are you sure the GH test is working and not old, or already activated/contaminated somehow? The other parameters seem ok! If the GH is as ridiculousy high as you say then I expect the shrimps would have problems molting (they may be twitching to get out of the old shell), though generally twitchy behaviour is usually down to some sort of toxic poisoning or the aquarium not being properly cycled? Are you using any plant fertiser or CO2?  Did you drip acclimate the shrimp over many hours before adding them to the aquarium? They are much more sensitive than fish to changes in water parameters etc. You could end up killing more of them by moving them so I would hold off from that at the moment!  
    • professionalshrimphugger
      Hello all, I am new to the forum, although experienced at fishkeeping, I am relatively new to shrimpkeeping. Let's start with my issue. I had started a colony of 18 juvenile cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) in a 20 gallon long as of last month. I solely use tap water and change 5% per week. They are the only inhabitants alongside a single juvenile Malaysian trumpet snail. Today the numbers have been reduced to 9. The deaths did not start until the shrimp turned into adults, where they have struggled, twitching as if provoked, becoming lethargic, and eventually flipping over to their side and dying. Only the ones on the verge of death exhibit this behavior, whereas the rest simply graze on as usual. I measured my parameters today - my tank has been established for two months as of now and is densely planted. They have never bred despite being of adult size and having visible saddles. Never an issue with molting. Ammonia: 0 ppm, Nitrite: 0 ppm, Nitrate: 0-5 ppm || pH: 7.8, GH: ??, KH: 3 I cannot get a single good read off API's liquid GH test. I have dropped beyond 30+ and gave up as I knew the numbers were already extreme. The thing is, I need a temporary, inexpensive solution to keep my shrimp safe. I believe by the time I order supplies, the colony would already give. I was planning on moving the colony to a 5.5g, barren with my floating plants and mosses, using just distilled water, Seachem Equilibrium (only GH additive I own) and crushed eggshells (potential source of KH). Possibly crushed coral to substitute for the lack of any real mineral additive. I did not believe that high GH would possibly become a problem, and I am fortunate that the strugglers are still alive. If anyone has a solution to this problem, or approve of my plan of action, please let me know. TIA
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