Jump to content

help with reset or reassemble setup


Recommended Posts

dragonbolas
Good morning,

Thanks in advance.


to set up:
aquarium 30 liters 30 * 30 * 30
2 filters
- 1 filter sponges
- marina s15 filter with neo media soft

substrate JBL Manado


I have a 30-liter aquarium with neocaridins and I wanted to add CRS.

as for the PH it is ok for the CRS it has the ph at 6.5 but I needed to remove it as all plants because the layout is a big mess because I have BBAs and cladophora plants.

I wanted to either reset the aquarium or remove all the plants to try to eliminate all the algae.

can someone help me what is the best way to do it? because I’m afraid to remove it as plants and lift a lot of garbage and ammonia, 
and I don’t have another tank where I can put the neos to reset the tank and cycle again.

Can I gradually remove the plants one per day and wash them with hydrogen peroxide?

Or would it be better for one day to take off neocaridines and wash everything and reassemble on the same day?


many thanks

 

Thanks and best regards

Edited by dragonbolas
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
sdlTBfanUK

You're probably best treating the tank as it is. A proper balanced tank shouldn't have BBA so you need to identify why you have this problem. Sometimes it happens early on after a tank has been set up and it clears itself with time as the tank balances itself out - I have had this happen! The other usual problem is regarding the light, too much, too little, in direct sunlight etc etc.

I would just remove as much as you can manually without disturbing the plants and see if it clears up naturally, if this tank is fairly new! I have had this, and fungus with new tanks and left alone it has always vanished as the tank becomes balanced/settled/mature?

You may be best holding off getting CRS at this stage, until you have the tank properly sorted as caridina shrimp are more sensitive/delicate than neocaridina shrimp?

Simon

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
dragonbolas

Hi the tank have 14 mounths mature. The bbas only appears when a put a new filter s15 with eheiem substrat pro, and the pH Change from 6.5 to 7.5 because the eheiem médias. Now i try to treat BBA with florish excel but without many results. Thanks

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
sdlTBfanUK

How long ago did you change the s15 filter and eheim substrate? New substrate may be rich in fertilisers/nutrients and that may have caused the BBA to grow but this may settle down with time and water changes if the substrate was changed recently?

The PH 6.5 will be good for crystal shrimps but not the PH 7.5?

I have heard (but never tried myself) that flourish excel can clear BBA but it usually takes time and most reports use double/triple the recommended dose, be careful not to use too much that would affect the shrimps though! It usually goes red before dying off?

Simon

Link to post
Share on other sites
dragonbolas

Hi,

eheim substrat pro its not a substrate but is a media to the filter

https://eheim.com/en_GB/aquatics/filter-media/biological/substratpro/substratpro-180g

but this media is very alkaline and raised my PH.

 

now with new media neo media soft the ph is lower again.

 

I dont use the double of the excel because im afraid too i use an half of the recomended.

 

Thanks

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
Crabby

Hi there! I dealt with BBA a while ago, and came at it from a bunch of different angles - I did full doses (but not doubles) of excel (directly on the algae), manually removed what I could, did vinegar dips, experimented with some week-long blackouts, decreased hours of lighting, and added in a couple Siamese Algae Eaters to eat the remainder (they did a great job)! In the end, I pretty much eliminated the BBA from that tank (actually, besides a teeny bit of green spot on the glass, my tank is algae free!!!)

In the end, I think the problem was my light. Using a timer, I’ve cut my lighting hours down to about 6 hrs per day, and the tank gets maybe an hour of nice full sunlight in the morning too. I suggest trying whichever of the above options you can, especially the lighting. 

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
sdlTBfanUK

What happened to the Siamese Algae Eaters after the tank was cleared of BBA? If they are Algae eaters, are they shrimp safe longer term?

Simon

 

35 minutes ago, Crabby said:

Hi there! I dealt with BBA a while ago, and came at it from a bunch of different angles - I did full doses (but not doubles) of excel (directly on the algae), manually removed what I could, did vinegar dips, experimented with some week-long blackouts, decreased hours of lighting, and added in a couple Siamese Algae Eaters to eat the remainder (they did a great job)! In the end, I pretty much eliminated the BBA from that tank (actually, besides a teeny bit of green spot on the glass, my tank is algae free!!!)

In the end, I think the problem was my light. Using a timer, I’ve cut my lighting hours down to about 6 hrs per day, and the tank gets maybe an hour of nice full sunlight in the morning too. I suggest trying whichever of the above options you can, especially the lighting. 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
Crabby

Oh, sorry, forgot to mention - this is a fish only tank. I’m not sure how I’d feel about putting them in with my shrimp (especially now the one I kept is getting pretty big). I’d say it’s possible if the tank is decent sized (10G+) but you should be wary and attentive, and you might lose a couple baby shrimp. SAE are omnivores, not purely algae eaters, but they’re one of the only fish who will eat BBA. Unfortunately, the best way to get them to eat it is by giving them very little food, and that may provoke them to eat shrimp. 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
sdlTBfanUK

I looked the SAE up last night and I probably hadnt come across them as they grow quite big, up to 6 inches, so would have ignored them on size alone.I don't think I woould risk them with shrimp!

Simon

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      Really pleased to hear that your yellow shrimp tank is sorted now and you didn't even have to buy any new shrimps to repopulate, bonus! I hope the treatment of the CRS goes well, Ihaen't used any of those reatments so can't advise on those but would go with the info on the thread as that would be updated with the latest information/advice!  Simon
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I suspect the coral and egg shells have caused the GH to increase so I would just take those out and do a 50% slow water change! You will need to do water changes anyway whilst you're trying to re-cycle the tank, the treatments you used may have killed some of the beneficial bacteria, or it could just have been the chicken as you state? If the neocaridina were doing fine without the KH then it would be better to return to that set up, at least until you get it back to normal and stable. The important thing is not to make and big/sudden changes to the water parameters, the CRS will be more delicate than the neocaridina, but all shrimp are fragile creatures! Simon  
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Great to hear that you are sorted! I wouldn't have thought Cordoras would eat copepods but as long as it is working stick with it? Simon
    • ShrimpNoob9
      Hi everyone. I've been keeping caridinas and neocaridinas in the same tank for about 2 months now. My neocaridinas were doing very well. Everyone was molting at their own pace and was breeding like crazy. Then I did a stupid thing of leaving raw chicken bits. While my shrimps ate the chicken, 2-3 of them died after that. And now my tank is totally haywire. I've tried doing water changes, tried vacuuming the substrate. My tank parameters are also REALLY REALLY bad.  Nitrates 40 Nitrite 1 Gh >7 Kh 0 PH 6.8 CL 0 CO2 <15 My ammonia is <0.02ppm My tank contents are aragonite sand, black active substrate(in a glass container), coral chips, coral stones, cholla wood, fissiden moss, duckweed, Indian almond leaf, java fern, a money plant, marimo moss ball.  What can I do to make the nitrates and nitrites go away? And is my kh and gh making any sense? I tried adding coral stone, egg shells to increase my kh but it's not working. 
    • ShrimpNoob9
      Hi Simon, updates on the planaria and copepods. I tried using planaria trap and really screwed up the tank as I put raw chicken in the trap and when it wasn't trapping any planaria I took out the trap and left the chicken bits inside. I think they decomposed and caused a lot of ammonia as a few of my shrimps died(2-3). Then I used the benibachi planaria zero in the tank (did 2 water changes focusing on cleaning the substrate) and separated my snails and after two doses I don't see any more planarias. I also went to get 3 pygmy corydoras. That really made the copepods dissappear slowly but surely. Thank you so much for your help and advice!
×
×
  • Create New...