Jump to content

help with reset or reassemble setup


dragonbolas

Recommended Posts

Good morning,

Thanks in advance.


to set up:
aquarium 30 liters 30 * 30 * 30
2 filters
- 1 filter sponges
- marina s15 filter with neo media soft

substrate JBL Manado


I have a 30-liter aquarium with neocaridins and I wanted to add CRS.

as for the PH it is ok for the CRS it has the ph at 6.5 but I needed to remove it as all plants because the layout is a big mess because I have BBAs and cladophora plants.

I wanted to either reset the aquarium or remove all the plants to try to eliminate all the algae.

can someone help me what is the best way to do it? because I’m afraid to remove it as plants and lift a lot of garbage and ammonia, 
and I don’t have another tank where I can put the neos to reset the tank and cycle again.

Can I gradually remove the plants one per day and wash them with hydrogen peroxide?

Or would it be better for one day to take off neocaridines and wash everything and reassemble on the same day?


many thanks

 

Thanks and best regards

Edited by dragonbolas
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You're probably best treating the tank as it is. A proper balanced tank shouldn't have BBA so you need to identify why you have this problem. Sometimes it happens early on after a tank has been set up and it clears itself with time as the tank balances itself out - I have had this happen! The other usual problem is regarding the light, too much, too little, in direct sunlight etc etc.

I would just remove as much as you can manually without disturbing the plants and see if it clears up naturally, if this tank is fairly new! I have had this, and fungus with new tanks and left alone it has always vanished as the tank becomes balanced/settled/mature?

You may be best holding off getting CRS at this stage, until you have the tank properly sorted as caridina shrimp are more sensitive/delicate than neocaridina shrimp?

Simon

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi the tank have 14 mounths mature. The bbas only appears when a put a new filter s15 with eheiem substrat pro, and the pH Change from 6.5 to 7.5 because the eheiem médias. Now i try to treat BBA with florish excel but without many results. Thanks

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

How long ago did you change the s15 filter and eheim substrate? New substrate may be rich in fertilisers/nutrients and that may have caused the BBA to grow but this may settle down with time and water changes if the substrate was changed recently?

The PH 6.5 will be good for crystal shrimps but not the PH 7.5?

I have heard (but never tried myself) that flourish excel can clear BBA but it usually takes time and most reports use double/triple the recommended dose, be careful not to use too much that would affect the shrimps though! It usually goes red before dying off?

Simon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

eheim substrat pro its not a substrate but is a media to the filter

https://eheim.com/en_GB/aquatics/filter-media/biological/substratpro/substratpro-180g

but this media is very alkaline and raised my PH.

 

now with new media neo media soft the ph is lower again.

 

I dont use the double of the excel because im afraid too i use an half of the recomended.

 

Thanks

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi there! I dealt with BBA a while ago, and came at it from a bunch of different angles - I did full doses (but not doubles) of excel (directly on the algae), manually removed what I could, did vinegar dips, experimented with some week-long blackouts, decreased hours of lighting, and added in a couple Siamese Algae Eaters to eat the remainder (they did a great job)! In the end, I pretty much eliminated the BBA from that tank (actually, besides a teeny bit of green spot on the glass, my tank is algae free!!!)

In the end, I think the problem was my light. Using a timer, I’ve cut my lighting hours down to about 6 hrs per day, and the tank gets maybe an hour of nice full sunlight in the morning too. I suggest trying whichever of the above options you can, especially the lighting. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What happened to the Siamese Algae Eaters after the tank was cleared of BBA? If they are Algae eaters, are they shrimp safe longer term?

Simon

 

35 minutes ago, Crabby said:

Hi there! I dealt with BBA a while ago, and came at it from a bunch of different angles - I did full doses (but not doubles) of excel (directly on the algae), manually removed what I could, did vinegar dips, experimented with some week-long blackouts, decreased hours of lighting, and added in a couple Siamese Algae Eaters to eat the remainder (they did a great job)! In the end, I pretty much eliminated the BBA from that tank (actually, besides a teeny bit of green spot on the glass, my tank is algae free!!!)

In the end, I think the problem was my light. Using a timer, I’ve cut my lighting hours down to about 6 hrs per day, and the tank gets maybe an hour of nice full sunlight in the morning too. I suggest trying whichever of the above options you can, especially the lighting. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh, sorry, forgot to mention - this is a fish only tank. I’m not sure how I’d feel about putting them in with my shrimp (especially now the one I kept is getting pretty big). I’d say it’s possible if the tank is decent sized (10G+) but you should be wary and attentive, and you might lose a couple baby shrimp. SAE are omnivores, not purely algae eaters, but they’re one of the only fish who will eat BBA. Unfortunately, the best way to get them to eat it is by giving them very little food, and that may provoke them to eat shrimp. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I looked the SAE up last night and I probably hadnt come across them as they grow quite big, up to 6 inches, so would have ignored them on size alone.I don't think I woould risk them with shrimp!

Simon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • beanbag
      Update to say that after a few gravel vacs, front wall scrub, moss / floating plant trim, that the condition seems to have improved.  My current theory is that it is due to waste / debris management, where "stuff" like that brown mulm accumulates in the substrate and behind the HMF filters.  Maybe some tanks can somehow deal with it, but mine can't.  Also another experienced shrimper suggested that maybe those "shell bugs" don't just live on the shrimps but also in this debris.  Maybe this is the reason some tanks fail due to "old tank syndrome" where all they need is a good gravel vac? Also, I am guessing that plant trim helps too because now more of the nutrients and light go into growing algae instead of more plants? Well anyway for this tank I will try weekly water change and monthly gravel vac / plant trim.  For my next tank, I'm thinking of something like an under-gravel system where this mulm can fall down and I vac it out.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Good to have an update and good to hear you are getting shrimplets, so hopefully your colony will continue and you may not get to the point where you have to cull some to stop over population. These type of shrimp only live 12 - 18 months so the adult deaths may be natural? If you have the time I would do weekly 25% water changes, adding the new water via a drip system and do some vacuuming clean of the substrate each week, even if only a different bit each week! See if that helps in a few months and if it does then stick with that regime? It should help reduce any build-ups that may be occuring!
    • beanbag
      Hello again, much belated update: The tank still has "cycles" of 1-2 month "good streaks" where everybody seems to be doing well, and then a bad streak where the short antenna problem shows up again, and a shrimp dies once every few days.  I am not sure what causes things to go bad, but usually over the course of a few days I will start to see more shrimp quietly standing on the HMF filter, and so I know something is wrong.  Since I am not "doing anything" besides the regular 1-2 week water changes, I just assume that something bad is building up.  Here's a list of things that I've tried that are supposed to be "can't hurt" but didn't prevent the problem either: Dose every other day with Shrimp Fit (very small dose, and the shrimp seem to like it) Sotching Oxydator Seachem Purigen to keep the nitrates lower Keeping the pH below 5.5 with peat Things that I don't do often, so could possibly "reset" the tank back to a good streak, are gravel vac and plant trim, so maybe time to try those again. One other problem I used to have was that sometimes a shrimp would suddenly stop eating with a full or partially full digestive tract that doesn't clear out, and then the shrimp will die within a few days.  I suspected it was one of the foods in my rotation - Shrimp Nature Infection, which contains a bunch of herbal plant things.  I've had this in my food rotation for a few years now and generally didn't seem to cause problems, but I removed it from the rotation anyway.  I don't have a lot of adult Golden Bees at this point so I can't really tell if it worked or not. Overall the tank is not too bad - during the good streaks occasionally a shrimp will get berried and hatch babies with a 33-50% survival rate.  So while there are fewer adults now, there are also a bunch of babies roaming around.  I guess this tank will stagger on, but I really do need to take the time to start up a new tank.  (or figure out the problem)
    • jayc
      If that is the offspring, then the parents are unlikely to be PRL. I tend to agree with you. There are very few PRLs in Australia. And any that claim to be needs to show proof. PRL genes have to start as PRL. CRS that breed true after x generations doesn't turn it into a PRL. Neither can a Taiwan bee shrimp turn into a PRL despite how ever many generations. I've never seen a PRL with that sort of red colour. I have on Red Wines and Red Shadows - Taiwan bee shrimps. So somewhere down the line one of your shrimp might have been mixed with Taiwan bees and is no longer PRL. It just tanks one shrimp to mess up the genes of a whole colony. 
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Sorry, missed this one somehow! The PRL look fantastic and the odd ones look part PRL and part Red wine/Red shadow in the colour. They are still very beautiful but ideally should be seperated to help keep the PRL clean if you can do that.  Nice clear photos!
×
×
  • Create New...