Jump to content

How hardy are berried neocaridina shrimp


Kelly
 Share

Recommended Posts

I recently bought 40 neo shrimp and out of the 40 shrimp one was berried. I was and (still want to) going to put them in a 8 gallon tank but it had a internal filter with huge slits where shrimp can easily get through and within hours most of mine got into that department. I sadly loss 7. So I had to move them to my smaller tank which they seem to like. Only issue it’s way too small and has no filter. Now I know there’s 1 berried shrimp in this tank:) I’m not sure if it’s the original.... but I do see a molt. Should I leave them all in this tank until shrimplets are born?  I don’t have a filter for it. Right now bare bottom, heater and Java moss and driftwood with Anubis as its only decorations.  Oh piece of almond leaf too. The other tank is now  fixed and  set up I now have a shrimp safe filter, shrimp substrate that cloud up the water although it’s slowly becoming clear. should I move all shrimp but mama to 8 gallon? 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is always a risk with transferring shrimp between tanks that the mother may drop the eggs but as long as you are careful and gentle you should be ok! It would probably be easier to transfer the berried female now, before the shrimplets are born as they will be quite difficult to move when they are small, but the flip side to this is they may be vulnerable (the slots) when newly hatched! Changing water usually encourages molting, so hopefully the water between the 2 tanks is the same in parameters, otherwise drip acclimate them to be safest!

The shrimp that got into the back were probably sucked there by the pump, so it may be on too fast/high? With just shrimp in the tank it doesn't need a fast flow or much filtering.

If you want to play safe I would transfer the shrimp in batches over several days (3 x 11) just in case there turns out to be a problem and you won't lose the whole lot? 

Simon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have moved berried shrimp dozens of times successfully.

The trick is to always keep them in water. Don't lift them out with a net without water.

What I do is get a plastic container (clean and free of oil), use my normal net to catch the shrimp, but before lifting the net, slip the plastic container under the net and lift it all up making sure the net is still in water within the container. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      Welcome fellow UK shrimp keeper! I would think it would be better to remove the shrimp into the quarantine tank and keep them there whilst you treat the fish in the main tank and once you finish treating the tank and fish do a complete water change (maybe 2 a week apart for safety) before returning the shrimps. That would seem the best option though obviously the shrimp would need to be in the separate tank for weeks. I'm not aware of any medications available for ICH that won't kill shriimp and/or snails. With neocaridina they probably will just about survive 30 degrees but you are pushing it close to the limit! I don't believe ich affects shrimps.
    • ferret-confirmed
      Re-posting here from The Shrimp Spot forum as I need help. Help, 40 litre tank has a ich (ichthyophtyirius multifiliis) / white spot outbreak. We've been able to separate the few surviving neon tetra into an emergency quarantine tank, with appropriate medicine for the fish. We had done this as we had noticed the issue practically too late as we miss identified the white spots as cotton mouth (which the tetra also have). We luckily quarantined the fish from the tank as  the ich reached its second stage as most have matured and abandoned the fish. This has become an issue as even if the neon tetra do not survive the treatment, I cannot re-add them to the tank and I don't want to keep the tank's environment full of parasites. Thankfully ich seem to not be able to effect the shrimp but the medicine we have for them is toxic to the shrimp and the plants in the tank, hence the separating of the neon tetra. I was wondering if there was anything I can do to the tank while the shrimp are still in the tank, as removing them isn't a viable option. We've been trying to get the temp of the tank to 30C and leaving it at that temp for an hour, however the tank's heater is verry slow and doesn't seem to be going up past 27C. From what I've searched 30C should kill of the ich without irritating the bloody mary shrimp too much (too many websites vary their recommended temp, so I wouldn't keep it above 28C long if we were able to get it that high) If anyone knows if there are any ich treatments or methods of killing ich that are safe for invertebrates and potentially plants I would love if they could suggest one.
    • Moul1974
      For beginners and smaller tanks, I recommend glass aquariums because of their affordability and scratch resistance. For larger, more advanced aquariums, we recommend acrylic because it's lighter and easier to repair than glass.
    • becky
      Hooray! I was hoping it was molt but he hasnt progressed at all in about a week. Thank you guys so much for your help again. Ill keep an eye out. 
    • jayc
      It looks like the shrimp is about to moult.  I don't keep Ghost shrimp, so I'm not too familiar with how they look when going into a moult. But the white band along each joint is common in other shrimp when they start to moult.
×
×
  • Create New...