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    • zeragee
      By zeragee
      Hey Guys, I'm hoping someone will be able to help me out. I am a first-time shrimp owner. Four days ago I came home to find that one of my poor ghost shrimp ladies has this weird blue/white moldy looking coloration on her head, primarily on her rostum. She is otherwise still moving around, eating normally, and not hiding. I've done some internet sleuthing (I was leaning towards possible vorticella or bacterial infection), but haven't yet found anything that fits the description and was hoping someone may have run into this before.
      Link to pictures
      Tank:
      - 5 gallon, long. Fully cycled, 2.5 months old
      - Houses 4 ghost shrimp (all female), 1 betta, and approx 9 baby shrimp in a breeding net.
      - Filter (sponge) + Heater.
      Shrimp have been in the tank with no problem for about a month
      Water Params (as of November 8, 2020)
      - PH 8.2
      - Amm: 0-0.25
      - NI: 0
      - NA: 5 ppm
      - Temp: 78

      Treatment so far:
      Day 1: 50% WC, and dosed 6ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide (with filter removed).
      Day 2: Did the same hydrogen treatment, with no change in the shrimp.
      Day 3: Removed all of the plants from tank and dosed 4.5tbsp aquarium salt, with plans to do a PWC later in the week to slowly phase out the salt.
      Day 4: 60 second salt dip (ratio of 1tbsp/cup) for all my shrimp and the above hydrogen peroxide treatment. I fear that whatever the white-ness is has spread to at least one other shrimp due to a noticeable color change in her legs and pleopods
      Anyone have any idea what this is? I'm not sure if I should quarantine the sick shrimp or just treat the whole tank at this point, as I'm not sure if it's contagious.
      Thank you in advance!
    • abbytherookiehuman
      By abbytherookiehuman
      hey everyone so i know this is a shrimp forum but im betting that most of the people on here have fish too 
      im a school student and ive decided  to design a new breeder box that beats the flaws of other existing products for my major work
      i was hoping you guys could just reply with what method or model of breeder box you use to save your fry, what kind of fish you use it with and any pros and cons of these methods
      thanks in advance for any replies. 
       
    • Taste
      By Taste
      Curious how much i should let them age if its even a concern before i sell some of my babies.
    • Flynn002
      By Flynn002
      Hi, I am doing a project for my college course:
      How does temperature affect the number of fry a cherry shrimp produces?
      I have setup a small 18L nano tank and it’s currently cycling. When ready, I am planning on taking 1 male and 1 female cherry shrimp from my main shrimp tank and putting them in the new tank. and waiting until I see eggs. I will then remove the male and when the eggs have hatched, or when the babies are big enough to see, I will count them. 
      I will then repeat this with different temperatures.
      it seems like it will all work in theory and I have 1 year to do this so time is not an issue. The only issue I see is that I’m unsure how Will I accurately count the fry? 
      This is vital for my project and if anybody has ideas I would greatly appreciate it. 
      cheers :)
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    • piste
      I can only speak to the short moves i have done...which I think would apply to anything up to a day's travel.  I just drained the tanks down to about 20% of capacity....more if needed to lower the weight so I could carry them....then just unhook...move...hook back up at destination and that's about it.  I mean it all depends on specifics....so long as them temps are allowed to stay in what a human would typically be comfortable at....good to go.   Good luck!  Oh...and just try and minimize agitation of the tank and water as much as possible when carrying.
    • Crabby
      Yeah I think betta mating, however beautiful, always ends of with some aggression and damaged fins.   That's so cute! I'll have to try peas. We have some growing in the garden, so there isn't the worry about it having pesticides or anything.    Thankyou! He just arrived today, looking splendid. I'll send some photos when he's settled in. Just double checking right now that I've got similar parameters to the ones jayc recommended to you. 
    • sdlTBfanUK
      We get that a lot thaat snails are introduced with plants, they may have been eggs on the plant etc. Still, snails aren't a bad thing ad as long as you keep on top of the numbers they are another dimension to an aquarium. The majority of snails need a saltwater/brackish stage for reproduction so depending on what the black one is you may never get babies with that one, this means they never become a problem but you need to restock every now and again! I use assassin snails which are much slower at reproducing than the Malaysian Trumpet snails but occassionally I have to give some away to friends. Overfeeding is such a common problem. Really, shrimp feeding is a top up and treat as the shrimp eat biofilm most of the day, though obviously there needs to be enough biofilm in the tank to sustain the shrimp and with 15 shrimps in a 2g tank they will need some extra food over the biofilm probably! It sounds as though you are doing everything right! Keep it up! When you get boring/wild type shrimps they will make a nice treat for your turtle? Simon
    • Chels
      Thank you again for all of the excellent advice!! Yes!! I didn't actually introduce the trumpet snails on purpose. Either the plants from my local independent pet store had hitchhikers or the plants from Petco had some. I rinsed them thoroughly didn't quarantine them so it's my fault. I will catch all but 1 and put them in my turtle tank. Never a short supply of algae in there even with 4 snails and a bn pleco. Neon tetras are super readily available here.  I introduced a single snail and it hasn't reproduced yet. It's black and I can't remember the name. And with a bristlenose pleco there is still a lot of biofilm and small food particles to clean. I really did a number overfeeding because there's food all over even after sectioning the substrate + 2 WCs. I'm feeding a teeny tiny amount every few days on top of the biofilm. They take hours to eat it all.  It's hard to tell how much to feed, I wish there was a care guide just on that part. I have omnivore shrimp pellets which are discs, I feel 1/4 of those and a tiny piece of a pleco pellet (disc) and a few tiny granules of herbivore invert pellets. That's every 3 days but I could probably go 4 or 5 with all the biofilm. I have a heater but never use it except for the biofilm. It's a favorite for grazing and it's now spotless. Had a gross crust a few days ago. 
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I have heard and seen L Bretz videos but I didn't think he was USA based so didn't mention him. His website doesn't say where he is based from my brief look but if he is USA, he is well known in the hobby! The caridina are definitely worth the extra work IF you can get it to work??? They may need some form of cooler in the summer where you live unless you run air-con a lot. My cherry shrimp are ok to about 85 (tanks haven't gone above that ever here) or possibly higher, but when I had caridina 79 was when it started to get tricky? Simon
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