Jump to content

Best ground cover?


Pyriel

Recommended Posts

I think I may have asked this somewhere else but what would be, lets say, the top 3 ground covers I can use? I'm planning on ordering some moss soon and would like something for the ground in a small tank.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hc for sure but I have heard shrimps can struggle with it when it gets thicker, plus it has a high demand for co2 so (not a good mix with shrimp)

fissidens is a personal favorite as it isnt demanding, but can be a bit expensive if you want a massive patch covered....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmmmm I did like the idea of HC but didin't know how demanding it was. I did like the look of fissidens but what about eleocharis belem? It looks rather interesting but im kinda umming and arring as I do like plants closer to the ground.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I once saw a dry start with mini pelia and it was breathtaking!!! It's is in the aquascape photos section by yonjurro. Have a look!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the Marseilles minuta as a ground cover at it works great. No demands for light/ferr's. it's a fairly sturdy plant compared to the Moses, so shrimplets use it all the time as a natural cover..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

utricularia graminifolia, its not a bad little foreground plant, has a nice grass look to it. Dwarf hairgrass looks good to, as does glosso, which is a nice aussie native.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes agree with kimbo, ug is great to use it as carpet plant, make sure to plant it alone first before planting any other stem or fast growing plant,thus is cos it needs time to anchor itself to substrate n very sensitive to other plants . Once it has rooted then feel free to plant other plants. U can also start it by dry start method n once its carpeted then fill in with water. U can even try hc with dry start method n once it's nicely carpeted fill in with water n crank up the light n co2. U can plant hairgrass with or without dry start method. It's a pretty undemanding plant ,just trim it short n it will start shooting runners. Also can try lileopolis as carpet plant. I would suggest dry start method as there will be no algae prob n u will have a nice carpet before you flood it with water..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • beanbag
      Update to say that after a few gravel vacs, front wall scrub, moss / floating plant trim, that the condition seems to have improved.  My current theory is that it is due to waste / debris management, where "stuff" like that brown mulm accumulates in the substrate and behind the HMF filters.  Maybe some tanks can somehow deal with it, but mine can't.  Also another experienced shrimper suggested that maybe those "shell bugs" don't just live on the shrimps but also in this debris.  Maybe this is the reason some tanks fail due to "old tank syndrome" where all they need is a good gravel vac? Also, I am guessing that plant trim helps too because now more of the nutrients and light go into growing algae instead of more plants? Well anyway for this tank I will try weekly water change and monthly gravel vac / plant trim.  For my next tank, I'm thinking of something like an under-gravel system where this mulm can fall down and I vac it out.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Good to have an update and good to hear you are getting shrimplets, so hopefully your colony will continue and you may not get to the point where you have to cull some to stop over population. These type of shrimp only live 12 - 18 months so the adult deaths may be natural? If you have the time I would do weekly 25% water changes, adding the new water via a drip system and do some vacuuming clean of the substrate each week, even if only a different bit each week! See if that helps in a few months and if it does then stick with that regime? It should help reduce any build-ups that may be occuring!
    • beanbag
      Hello again, much belated update: The tank still has "cycles" of 1-2 month "good streaks" where everybody seems to be doing well, and then a bad streak where the short antenna problem shows up again, and a shrimp dies once every few days.  I am not sure what causes things to go bad, but usually over the course of a few days I will start to see more shrimp quietly standing on the HMF filter, and so I know something is wrong.  Since I am not "doing anything" besides the regular 1-2 week water changes, I just assume that something bad is building up.  Here's a list of things that I've tried that are supposed to be "can't hurt" but didn't prevent the problem either: Dose every other day with Shrimp Fit (very small dose, and the shrimp seem to like it) Sotching Oxydator Seachem Purigen to keep the nitrates lower Keeping the pH below 5.5 with peat Things that I don't do often, so could possibly "reset" the tank back to a good streak, are gravel vac and plant trim, so maybe time to try those again. One other problem I used to have was that sometimes a shrimp would suddenly stop eating with a full or partially full digestive tract that doesn't clear out, and then the shrimp will die within a few days.  I suspected it was one of the foods in my rotation - Shrimp Nature Infection, which contains a bunch of herbal plant things.  I've had this in my food rotation for a few years now and generally didn't seem to cause problems, but I removed it from the rotation anyway.  I don't have a lot of adult Golden Bees at this point so I can't really tell if it worked or not. Overall the tank is not too bad - during the good streaks occasionally a shrimp will get berried and hatch babies with a 33-50% survival rate.  So while there are fewer adults now, there are also a bunch of babies roaming around.  I guess this tank will stagger on, but I really do need to take the time to start up a new tank.  (or figure out the problem)
    • jayc
      If that is the offspring, then the parents are unlikely to be PRL. I tend to agree with you. There are very few PRLs in Australia. And any that claim to be needs to show proof. PRL genes have to start as PRL. CRS that breed true after x generations doesn't turn it into a PRL. Neither can a Taiwan bee shrimp turn into a PRL despite how ever many generations. I've never seen a PRL with that sort of red colour. I have on Red Wines and Red Shadows - Taiwan bee shrimps. So somewhere down the line one of your shrimp might have been mixed with Taiwan bees and is no longer PRL. It just tanks one shrimp to mess up the genes of a whole colony. 
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Sorry, missed this one somehow! The PRL look fantastic and the odd ones look part PRL and part Red wine/Red shadow in the colour. They are still very beautiful but ideally should be seperated to help keep the PRL clean if you can do that.  Nice clear photos!
×
×
  • Create New...