Jump to content

Here we go again


Able

Recommended Posts

So I’m constantly loosing shrimp 

It’s my 20gallon long cardinia tank 
Maybe it’s still cycling?
Params...
Tds 130
Ph 6.2
Gh 5
Kh 0
Ammonia .50-.75
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 20-40
What can I do besides water change?
 
  • Confused 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Able said:

Ammonia .50-.75

Definitely not fully cycled, as you have a fair amount of ammonia detected.

 

Do you have another tank that is matured? Squeeze the gunk from the filter into this 20Gal tank. Immediately.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is probably the ammonia as JayC, but just check the water isn't getting too hot as that dead shrimp looks exactly like mine did when the heater stuck on!

Simon

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, sdlTBfanUK said:

check the water isn't getting too hot

Good point. 

 

8 hours ago, Able said:

The 20 Gallon has a matten filter

We should start seeing the ammonia readings drop. Test it again and let us know.

Wash as many filter media you have from other tanks into this 20gal and keep testing. Water changes with RO or rain water will help. Tap water has some ammonia in it, so avoid a water change for now if tap water is all you have.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don’t use heaters as the shrimp room stays 70-72 degrees f all year long 

and all I use is rodi water with tds of 0 using salty shrimp gh plus Re-mineralized to 110 tds 

I squeezed out 4 separate sponge filters into it last night I will check levels again when I get home from work 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Able said:

all I use is rodi water with tds of 0 using salty shrimp gh plus Re-mineralized to 110 tds 

Perfect.

Let's see what change the cleaning of sponge filters in the tank has done. 

You might as well start collecting and preparing RO water for the upcoming water changes. 

Edited by jayc
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Checked this morning and ammonia was 0 again.

nitrate and nitrite was 0 as well.

should I do a water change or just leave it.

had 2 more blue bolts dead and 2 crs looked paralyzed when I went to remove them they barely moved so I left them . They were swimming in upside down circles. I think they will be dead as well tonight when I get home

  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would leave it for now, these types of shrimp are ludicrously sensitive so there may not be anything you can do to save them, but the more you mess about with things the less they are likely to survive. Hopefully they may sutvive, I am  not surprised that the blue bolts were the worst affected, asTaiwan bees are harder to keep than CRS usually! You may be right that the remaining shrimp won't survive much longer as the whole ordeal may have been too much for them unfortunately.

I would just leave it for now as is and keep checking the Ammonia and nitrites/nitrates stay at zero for a while.

Simon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok so the ammonia is now 0 but the nitrate is 20-30 ish 

what should I do?

water change?

Lost 4 more shrimp they were crs

and blue panda 

  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Able said:

water change?

Yes, do a water change. The ammonia has now been converted into Nitrates by the beneficial bacteria.

The shrimps are still facing the impact of the ammonia.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That nitrate figure wouldn't alarm me too much (one of my tanks has that figure all the time) but the lower the better, as long as Ammonia and Nitrite are zero.

You could do a water change but don't do more than 25% and you should always add new water very slowly, by dripper, or very thin tube with your larger setup should work. I would probably squeeze the other tank sponges in the tank again if you can, after any water change obviously if you are doing one!

If you have enough time perhaps you could give us as much detail as you can on this tank and set up, when it was done, what you used in the tank, anything you add such as plant fertiliser etc.

I'm assuming that the shrimp were transferred to this new tank and were in the 10 gallon before?

Did you get on top of the scud problem in the neocaridina tank?

Simon

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Neo tank scuds are all Gone as far as last time I posted about them.

in that tank I carefully removed every shrimp including babies I then removed all of the water and the plants and the filter which is a sponge and then I felt just enough to cover the gravel which is black sand with seltzer water they all died pretty much immediately but I waited about two hours Then I drained all of the water again filled it up with rodi water and then drained again to get the dead scuds out there were hundreds of them. Then I put everything back together without the shrimp and ran it for a couple days to make sure I didn’t miss any and then put all of the Neos back in. Knock on wood everything seems perfect in that tank. I hope I did not jinx myself

Edited by Able
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It’s a 20 gallon long with matten filter on the right wall , brightwell substrate, led light hood on 12 hours, cholla wood one Indian almond leaf

one piece drift wood with Java moss

and a rear wall full of tall plants that I can’t remember the name but I will post a picture when I get back home.I think my tank is “MINIMALIST “ as others had said on this site.

Let me know any other things that you would like to know about the tank set up

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hopefully you are done with the scuds in the nocaridina tank, fingers crossed!

The tank looks good and there isn't anything I can see that may cause a problem. The photo is a bit small but modern devices seem to take huge file photos.

When was the tank set up, and did you get the plants/wood from a trustworthy source, no pesticides etc?

Simon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I kind of forgot when I started to set that tank up but I think it was The second week in August

and when I started it I also squeezed the gunk from other sponge filtahs 

These are some of the babies from my other cardinia tank Not sure exactly how I got that coloration

F78FCB8A-106F-4415-85F2-999DC569E48A.jpeg

467B4206-17AC-4E05-85AA-E5F14AA996B1.jpeg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That looks quite like a fancy tiger to me, very pretty. The great thing with the Caridina shrimp is that even mixed breed ones are still pretty with interesting colour and patterns! You never know what you may get next!

There may be  fixed limit to the upload size and combined total storage for users unless they take out a full membership?

I hope the 20 gallon is showing some improvement, and the deaths have stopped? Have you done a test of the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate?

Simon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/23/2020 at 4:02 AM, Able said:

Just did 25 percent water change 

How is your Nitrate readings now and have the deaths stopped yet?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • beanbag
      Update to say that after a few gravel vacs, front wall scrub, moss / floating plant trim, that the condition seems to have improved.  My current theory is that it is due to waste / debris management, where "stuff" like that brown mulm accumulates in the substrate and behind the HMF filters.  Maybe some tanks can somehow deal with it, but mine can't.  Also another experienced shrimper suggested that maybe those "shell bugs" don't just live on the shrimps but also in this debris.  Maybe this is the reason some tanks fail due to "old tank syndrome" where all they need is a good gravel vac? Also, I am guessing that plant trim helps too because now more of the nutrients and light go into growing algae instead of more plants? Well anyway for this tank I will try weekly water change and monthly gravel vac / plant trim.  For my next tank, I'm thinking of something like an under-gravel system where this mulm can fall down and I vac it out.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Good to have an update and good to hear you are getting shrimplets, so hopefully your colony will continue and you may not get to the point where you have to cull some to stop over population. These type of shrimp only live 12 - 18 months so the adult deaths may be natural? If you have the time I would do weekly 25% water changes, adding the new water via a drip system and do some vacuuming clean of the substrate each week, even if only a different bit each week! See if that helps in a few months and if it does then stick with that regime? It should help reduce any build-ups that may be occuring!
    • beanbag
      Hello again, much belated update: The tank still has "cycles" of 1-2 month "good streaks" where everybody seems to be doing well, and then a bad streak where the short antenna problem shows up again, and a shrimp dies once every few days.  I am not sure what causes things to go bad, but usually over the course of a few days I will start to see more shrimp quietly standing on the HMF filter, and so I know something is wrong.  Since I am not "doing anything" besides the regular 1-2 week water changes, I just assume that something bad is building up.  Here's a list of things that I've tried that are supposed to be "can't hurt" but didn't prevent the problem either: Dose every other day with Shrimp Fit (very small dose, and the shrimp seem to like it) Sotching Oxydator Seachem Purigen to keep the nitrates lower Keeping the pH below 5.5 with peat Things that I don't do often, so could possibly "reset" the tank back to a good streak, are gravel vac and plant trim, so maybe time to try those again. One other problem I used to have was that sometimes a shrimp would suddenly stop eating with a full or partially full digestive tract that doesn't clear out, and then the shrimp will die within a few days.  I suspected it was one of the foods in my rotation - Shrimp Nature Infection, which contains a bunch of herbal plant things.  I've had this in my food rotation for a few years now and generally didn't seem to cause problems, but I removed it from the rotation anyway.  I don't have a lot of adult Golden Bees at this point so I can't really tell if it worked or not. Overall the tank is not too bad - during the good streaks occasionally a shrimp will get berried and hatch babies with a 33-50% survival rate.  So while there are fewer adults now, there are also a bunch of babies roaming around.  I guess this tank will stagger on, but I really do need to take the time to start up a new tank.  (or figure out the problem)
    • jayc
      If that is the offspring, then the parents are unlikely to be PRL. I tend to agree with you. There are very few PRLs in Australia. And any that claim to be needs to show proof. PRL genes have to start as PRL. CRS that breed true after x generations doesn't turn it into a PRL. Neither can a Taiwan bee shrimp turn into a PRL despite how ever many generations. I've never seen a PRL with that sort of red colour. I have on Red Wines and Red Shadows - Taiwan bee shrimps. So somewhere down the line one of your shrimp might have been mixed with Taiwan bees and is no longer PRL. It just tanks one shrimp to mess up the genes of a whole colony. 
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Sorry, missed this one somehow! The PRL look fantastic and the odd ones look part PRL and part Red wine/Red shadow in the colour. They are still very beautiful but ideally should be seperated to help keep the PRL clean if you can do that.  Nice clear photos!
×
×
  • Create New...