Jump to content

copper test kit


xrayguy
 Share

Recommended Posts

hi guys and gals

I was discussing my lack of sucess with rcs shrimp with my lfs guy, and he asked me to bring in a sample of my tank water.  He tested it for copper.  He said my tank water was high in copper.  

I do have copper pipes, and he believes that's the cause.  I have a 72g med/high light planted tank with co2.  My po4 is higher than I'd like(3.), and I kinda think that might be my cause, but I don't want to discount the copper thing either.  

 

So I'm wondering if the API test is the best 1 to get or is there a better version to get.  I'm about to set up a shrimp only tank ( fluval flex9) and want them to live and breed happily.  Gonna buy distilled water from the store until I can prove it's not my water.

thanx

richard

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hanna low range copper test kit colorimeter, measures in parts per billion.

In the mean time, you can use Prime to help bind the copper, and there are also copper-absorbing chemicals.

Edited by beanbag
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would also be worried about using CO2 and tap water rarely works with caridina?

Is the plan to move the shrimp to their own tank? If so you probably should get RO water and remineralise with shrimp specific GH+ for the best results. For RO water you can use a Zerowater filter jug if you don't want a full RO system, which is very cheap in USA and available from Walmart, internet etc. It is slow to filter so may not be pracrical for a very large tank but if the shrimp are being moved to a smaller/new tank that should sort you out. I get about 100 litres per filter! It will remove any copper.

Simon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This bloody RCS and CRS nonsense again, sorry, my bad, I thought you had crystal shrimp but now see you have red cherry!

The same applies though except you need GH/KH+ for red cherry/bloody mary shrimp. You can still use the zerowater to convert your tap water to RO water though and then mineralise it in the new tank! Those flex aquariums are very nice, it may need some tweeking though to ensure it is shrimplet safe, and stop them getting into the back 'workings' section! 

You can also use seachem prime with tap water, as stated by Beanbag and neocaridina are usually fine with such treated tapwater so it would be worth trying with that first, as it will be easier and cheaper than going RO + minerals route?

Simon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • Shawn Lu
      About 3-4 weeks. It depends on your quality of water and the iodine of activated carbon.    
    • jayc
      Keep doing this, and feeding it the medicated food. If the shrimp doesn't eat the food within a day, remove it and feed new medicated food again the next day.   You sir, are a good candidate for an RO filter. Your shrimp are not going to like the hard water in the long term.
    • alkemist
      The shrimp is in a separate container, but it's been in there for a week or so now. I see it picking off the air stone and the sides of the tub. There is shrimp poop in the container, so it is eating, just not the food I give it. I suck out the detritus and excess food every couple of days and do small water change daily. At first I used tank water, since I don't run R/O. I use a combination of hard tap water with a little water ran through my water softener (I know it's a bit taboo to do). I don't know an exactly how to re-mineralize it to keep the shrimp from going into shock if I used straight clean tap water. I am starting to slowly remove the water from the tub and mixing it with direct tap water with the water softener on by-pass, so hopefully it can acclimate to full clean tap water. With the shrimp feeding, should I try to remove all visible signs of food and fast it for a couple days and then try again?
    • jayc
      Is the shrimp still in the main tank? Or have you moved it into a separate container? There should be no biofilm in a new container, and it should be hungry to want to eat the medicated algae wafer. It won't go away without treatment. The bacteria is not just on the shell (carapace), so moulting won't get rid of the bacteria.
    • alkemist
      I've tried to feed the shrimp food soaked in the oregano oil mixture (1 drop of oregano and 5 ml of water since it's 86% carvacrol). The shrimp seems to hate the taste of any food I put in there with the mixture. It goes off and tries to feed on anything but the medicated food. I don't have any other food in the tub and took all the floaters out but seems to be feeding on naturally growing biofilm now.. I'm not sure if I am seeing any results. Should the reddish brown spots go away on it's own or does the shrimp have to molt it off? I've noticed it's been scratching itself a lot.
×
×
  • Create New...