Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Taste

How long after birth is it acceptable to move my endlers?

Recommended Posts

Taste

Curious how much i should let them age if its even a concern before i sell some of my babies.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Crabby

I mean the only reason you’ll want to let them age is so that people want to buy them! I’ve never had any interest in my endler fry until the males have started showing colour. So I generally wait a couple months to sell those guys. Heck, I have 100 apistogramma fry growing up in my 100L community tank. I’d love to sell them! But the oldest are only about 2 inches at most, so about 6 months old, and they only sell at around 9 months when they’ve put on some size.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Taste

I was figuring as much, i had a large spawn today of about 30 endlers, excited for them to grow!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Crabby

Nice! I'd just like to recommend that you label them correctly for sale - if they're N or P class endlers then say so, but otherwise make sure that you're clear that they're hybrids. Helps everyone. Congrats though!

Edited by Crabby
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Taste

i bought them at a LFS as Yellow tuxedo Endlers, they were adamant they werent hybrids but i could be mistaken.

Yellow Tuxedo Endler’s Livebearer

Poecilia cf. wingei  are how they are listed from the site of the LFS

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • abbytherookiehuman
      By abbytherookiehuman
      hey everyone so i know this is a shrimp forum but im betting that most of the people on here have fish too 
      im a school student and ive decided  to design a new breeder box that beats the flaws of other existing products for my major work
      i was hoping you guys could just reply with what method or model of breeder box you use to save your fry, what kind of fish you use it with and any pros and cons of these methods
      thanks in advance for any replies. 
       
    • Flynn002
      By Flynn002
      Hi, I am doing a project for my college course:
      How does temperature affect the number of fry a cherry shrimp produces?
      I have setup a small 18L nano tank and it’s currently cycling. When ready, I am planning on taking 1 male and 1 female cherry shrimp from my main shrimp tank and putting them in the new tank. and waiting until I see eggs. I will then remove the male and when the eggs have hatched, or when the babies are big enough to see, I will count them. 
      I will then repeat this with different temperatures.
      it seems like it will all work in theory and I have 1 year to do this so time is not an issue. The only issue I see is that I’m unsure how Will I accurately count the fry? 
      This is vital for my project and if anybody has ideas I would greatly appreciate it. 
      cheers :)
    • Crabby
      By Crabby
      Hey everyone,
      I was recently (meaning today) given the opportunity to set up a breeding tank for some native inverts (or some harder to breed fish I guess, but I want to go for shrimp) in a fishroom I help out in. I've been trying to decide what native shrimp I want to try breeding, but then I remembered that it's not as simple as exotics. Can I get some input from the 'experts' (@Grubs, @NoGi, @Baccus, @fishmosy, @jayc of course, I know most of you aren't very active anymore, but I would appreciate your help if you see this message) on what native invert you guys think is easiest to breed (for a semi-noob who hasn't kept natives before). I can set it up as brackish I think, we have an archer fish tank there and are setting up a saltwater as well so should have access to those tools and materials.  
      Cheers!
    • YoloDaBolo
      By YoloDaBolo
      PLZ HELP 🙂 
    • sky99
      By sky99
      Hello everyone!
      I bought some pintos, and i did put them with my other bees (some panda, some king kong, some blue bolts).
      However, i can't seem to find if pintos do breed true (in that case, should i separate them? or will those mix with the others
      to make cool new paterns, colors, etc?)
      I have a hard time figuring what bee breed true if any.
      I've read that bee are a mutation of CRS/CBS, but do they produce  similar offsprings or is it more random as an interaction of
      multiple genes?
       
      Thanks in advance for the help!
  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      The TDS of 130-150 is perfecr for caridina shrimp, as is the GH 4-5 so there is no problem there! If you are using the shrimp GH+ with RO water then it is perfectly balanced for shrimps and try not to obsess about hitting an exact figure balance. I had some waterlouse in one of my tanks so i had to re-do the tank. It was a long time ago but it worked and haven't had any since. I was using leaves from a pond and that must have been how they got into the tank. I didn't use any chemicals just took everything out and checked it, and re-set it up, using the same plants etc but carefully checking there were no hitchhikers. They weren't difficult to catch but without removing everything you won't know if you have got them all? You can just put the shrimp and fish in a bucket temporarily while you do the tank. Even filters etc will need to be checked/cleaned as well of course! Be very thorough and don't rush through it and be careful with any equipment like nets as you don't want to accidently transfer a tiny scud to another tank etc. As JayC says any chemicals will also likely kill shrimps so you would still need to remove them if you want to use chemicals!  Simon
    • jayc
      Only way is to physically catch them either with a net or a trap. Unfortunately any chemical treatment will kill scuds will also impact shrimps.   150 TDS is still ok for Caridina. 
    • Able
      So now my neo tank I infested with scuds...... is there any safe way to eliminate them? Without removing all shrimp? Also I started a 20 gallon long for cardinias. matten filter tds130 but I can’t get the gh  above 4-5 without raising the tds over 150 what am I doing wrong? i use rodi water  tds0 with shrimp king gh+ Using Brightwell substrate   
    • Crabby
      I used to keep guppies, blue dreams and tangerine tigers in a tank together. Guppies are gone now - I would get loads and loads of berried girls but never any shrimplets surviving! I would recommend against any fish with shrimp unless it is a catfish, or a very small fish like an endler, or microrasbora. My personal opinion though - in the end it's your tank, and you want to enjoy it. I will say that once I removed the fish, my shrimp became extremely active!!! It was so fascinating to watch them constantly on the move. I have since moved a pair of endlers in, and the shrimp activity has died down slightly, but it is so much better than a breeding group of guppies. Water params work well for TTS and Blue Dreams. Just gotta have a handle on it.  You might want to be careful on substrate though - TTS pop on black, but blue dreams are so hard to see. Contrary to that, blue dreams pop on white. I think white might work for TTS too, but plants look a bit yech on white. My favourite colour of substrate I've seen has been a light river sand - works not amazingly, but very well with all of them. A happy medium. The blue dreams and TTS together do look fantastic though. Really beautiful shrimp.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      The easiest and safest choice of shrimp with the dlue dream would be Tangerine Tiger (assumig you can get hold of some), they like similar water and are as easy to keep as neocaridina but the two don't interbreed and are  usually fairly reasonable in price! The contrasting colour will also make it interesting to look at. I've not tried tiger shrimp yet myself but with all the disruption here because of the virus its not a very good time to get shrimps through the post so I will hold off for now! As you say/know guppies are very curious fish and will get baby shrimps so you will want a densely planted tank with lots of hiding places if any of the baby shrimp are to survive. As you also say, it is a shame the guppies can't go in with the Betta as that would solve the shrimp problem, but guppies and Betta don't go well together - there is always some problem stopping you from getting everything as you would like in this hobby? If you can resist the temptation to get the guppies for a while it may be better so the tank can settle down and your shrimp can multiply and you get enough of a good size shrimp to give them a chance? There are always many problems that can arise with new tanks and new livestock so it would also make sense from that point not to do/add too much early on as well? If you plan to get the shrimp shipped then they usually send fairly small and young shrimps that way so bear that in mind! Also, of course, the shrimp will naturally hide a lot if they feel unsafe with too many preditors in the aquarium? Now the aquariums. I can't find a fluval spec, but the fluval flex I know and had a similar setup years ago with the equipment hidden in the back. It is very clean and tidy looking, however there are a few problems that can arise with small shrimp. There are slots top and bottom where the water is drawn in to the back, but these slots aren't shrimp safe, shrimp can get through, or even get drawn through when young. You will need to get some sponge to put behind these slots to make it shrimp safe, but not too fine as that will reduce the amount of water circulating through the back section. This is only important/needed with small shrimps like neocaridina, the amanos are way to big to need to do this? This extra sponge needs to be removable for squeezing during regular maintenance as it will otherwise get clogged/blocked. You will need to check the water level in the back regularly as it can drop dramarically, which could be a problem if the heater is in the back! I don't know the setup of the 'spec' aquarium as a search only showed small 10L tanks but they had the same type of filtration system as the flex. The flow for the betta may be able to be adjusted on the pump, mine was (though it didn't have a betta in it, just shrimps). You should be able to reduce the water disturbance also by pointing the outlets upwards and to the sides and that may be enough (hopefully). If these 2 aren't sufficient then you can cut a piece of sponge (again, not fine sponge) to cover the outlet (you can remove the standard flat end piece to make that easier). My betta tank has a spray bar and I have a sponge sleeve on that. Again though, keep a close eye on the water level in the back section though, mine dropped to half way at times (as the sponge gets clogged) even though the main tank level never dropped at all! Simon 
×
×
  • Create New...