Jump to content

Pale Otos


SonoranStorm
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi All, 
Question my LFS is going curbside pick up RN with the Rona so i dont get a chance to go pick out the fish myself I got two otos and 5 Neon Tetras. 
They were drip-acclimated over a 2 hour period but since i picked them up I saw they were noticably paler than my other 3 otos. 
Upon closer inspection it looks like their tails are a little beat up and their gills are working overtime. 

I would like to give them a fighting chance. Any advice? Thoughts? 

  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are a few products meant to help, melafix and stress coat that can be added but I'm not all that sure they really DO anything much. I woud just keep an eye at this stage as they may just get healthier over time as they are now in a properly set up tank. Just keep a close eye on them though as tey may be sick and you don't want them to infect the others. I have bought fish before with torn tails but they soon pick up and the tears fix themselves!

Fingers crossed they are ok but if the LFS is going ut of business they probably had too many other things on their mind than caring perfectly for the fish?

Simon

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Simon, 
Always nice to hear from you. 

Will do, i've added more food sources to the tank (Zucchini and Algae Wafers) and im keeping the lights off a few days to see if it helps. 
 

Lucky for me the LFS is going strong but since customers are calling in/ sending instagram messages to the management to place orders 10-15 minutes before you show up and the owner is going bonkers doing a million things at once and manning the register i don't think the youngins really pay much attention to the livestock they pick out for customers. Then again most Otos are wild caught so i cant expect much in the realm of perfect health either. 

For now I think your advice is best i will keep an eye on them to see if they look better and separate them otherwise. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most fish go pale when stressed, like when they are caught and bagged and shipped. They also do go pale when sick though.

This is a prime example of needing to quarantine. The beat up tail and heavy breathing might be due to other issues apart from the shipping stress. So it's good to quarantine these guys away from the main tank. Just in case.

 

Keeping the lights off is a good idea, and helps with stresses of shipping.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  • Similar Content

    • Finley
      By Finley
      I'm keen to hear from anyone who has first hand experience of keeping correctly identified Otocinclus catfish with shrimp. 

      There's a widespread belief, often repeated, that Otocinclus leave shrimp alone and are safe to keep in the same tank.

      There are also stories of Otocinclus chowing down on shrimplets, and even in one case on adults, so now that belief is also being repeated.

      There are many cases of Otocinclus being confused with Siamese Algae Eaters and other similar looking fish.

      I want to get to the truth. Can anyone who has ever kept definite Otocinclus with shrimp please tell me your experiences and observations?


      BTW, for ID...

      These are Otocinclus, with the sucker mouth and spot on the tail root: 



      These are not:



    • KeenShrimp
      By KeenShrimp
      After @Disciple very kindly recommended a protein feed for my little guys every now and then, I went to the frozen fish food section and all the bloodworm products were from China ( sorry, I am still recovering from the melamine milk and dogfood scandal), I wanted to buy an Aussie product for my shrimp, so I settled for Cichlid food containing everything from shrimp, fish, octopus, garlic, spinach, spirulina and I didn't know what Wombaroo was, but it sounded delicious ( really didn't want to google in Petbarn, it's a marsupial milk replacer for those that are interested).
      I have 7 ottos in my 240 litre tank and 5 Ottos in my 130 litre tank that are well- fed. When I put the smallest piece of the new meaty goodness in, the ottos went nuts and hogged it all. I had to mash a little but up for the shrimp that wanted some. The ottos sucked that Cichlid meat food until there was nothing but a few sinewy bits left...so my question is, how do we really know that they are 100% shrimp-safe?

  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • beanbag
      I don't know if bacteria is the cause.  It seems to be an uncommonly diagnosed problem because most shrimp articles only talk about bacteria infection as "a few shrimp die every day / week"  What can I say, a standard dose of minocycline and erythromycin didn't work to stop it, so not sure if oxytetracycline will work.
    • jayc
      Ah yes. That was the injectable form of oxytetracycline. Each mL of the injectable form contains: 100 mg oxytetracycline HCl, 5.75% w/v magnesium chloride , 6 H2O, 17% v/v water for injection, 1.3% w/v sodium formaldehyde Sulfoxylate as a preservative and q.s. with propylene glycol. Basically, it has additional compositions in it. 1000mg might have been the dose recommended for the injectable oxytetracycline, but if you have the powder form then follow the dosing rates as recommended on your bottle. Hope that clears it up a bit.     As for doxycycline and it's use to treat short antenna ... I cannot comment on whether it will be more effective than oxytetracycline or not. But if you do use it, only try one at a time. Is bacteria even been proven to be the cause of "short antenna disease"?
    • beanbag
      14 April 2015 -  Update based on experiences of one of our SKF members. Unfortunately for this shrimpkeeper it was too late to save these shrimps, but hopefully this experience will help someone else. 250+ shrimp were lost before the bacterial infection was halted.   A vet was consulted and he eventually ended up contacting a senior lecturer of aquatic animal health at University of Adelaide school of veterinary science. He stated that bacterial infections being internal or external are almost always gram negative in aquatics and recommended using oxytetracycline at a dose rate of 1000-2000mg per 40ltr of water.   Dosing method: Oxytetracycline is available in 2 forms. Powder and injectable. The injectable form was used as it is a stronger form. This meant that we could use less to obtain the required dosage.   Dosed straight into the water column at 1000mg per 40ltr of water.
    • jayc
      What?! Can you point me to where you saw that please?   If in doubt, Always follow the directions on the bottle.
    • beanbag
      What is the recommended dosing for oxytetracycline?  The sticky thread has a mention of " 1000mg per 40ltr ", but I don't know if that refers to total amount of powder, or active ingredient percentage. I live in USA, where oxytetracycline is not as common, but I was able to obtain a bottle of powder.  On the bottle, it says [calculated out to] 75 mg / 10 gal, which is a wayyyy lower value.  Also, the manufacturer / distributor won't tell me the fraction of the power that is active ingredient vs filler. This is for a Taiwan Bee shrimp tank with pH 5.5 and Gh 5, in case that matters for the effectiveness of oxytet in these parameters. I also have doxycycline available if that is equivalent / better. It's to treat that "short antenna disease" in one of my tanks that seems to show up once every few months. I've already dosed with Maracyn 1 (erythromycin) and 2 (minocycline) and they didn't seem to work.
×
×
  • Create New...