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Able
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On 5/18/2020 at 10:07 AM, Able said:

as soon as I see eggs on a shrimp I put in the mesh breeder. Then I take the shrimp out when the eggs are gone and I see more newborns swimming. Am I doing this wrong?

 

Nothing wrong with that method. Many experienced shrimp keepers to that.

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No, that's not necessary at all for either caridina or neo shrimp. It will help with moults, but it isn't necessary. I keep neocaridina and caridina absolutely fine without anything of the sort, and I get plenty of moults and breeding. You just need to make sure that there is the right amount of GH and KH in the water, and you'll do fine. 

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Ok got the rodi water system hooked up flushed out and I’m trying to get the proper gh and tds for my cardinia tank in a 5 gallon jug.

its tough

either I’m too high on both or too low....

only adding less then half a measuring cup for 5 gallons of rodi water that has 000 tds 

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The GH+ will be balanced for the caridina, just go for the TDS as that is the easiest to test anyway. Great to hear you have got the RO unit. Ifyou aim for about TDS 120 (doesn't need to be exact) that gives you a bit of room upwards! You can fie tune it later in the tank anyway as you don't have any shrimp in there yet.

Simon

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What do you mean by it will be balanced for the cardinia?

i got it to 120 ish 

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It will have the right proportions of everything the shrimp need to get the water parameters perfect for the (caridinia) shrimp. Therefore if you get one parameter right you can forget the others at the start (just test the GH/KH/PH once you have the right TDS to confirn all is right in your own  mind) and the easiest one to keep checking is the TDS anyway. Once the water is in the tank there may be other stuff that will alter that balance, especially over time and any OLD water that is left from before adding the RO will be one of those. Rocks can increase PH or TDS/GH depending on the type of rock etc!

With the TDS of 120 as yu mention, the other parameters should be GH 4-5 and KH 0-1 and PH 6-6.5(ish) before it goes into the tank

Simon

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Update....

I have  the new rodi system all flushed out and filling 5 gallon Poland spring jugs.

neo tanks: using salty shrimp gh-kh+

I can get the tds to 200 but the gh is only 6?

kh is 2?

why can’t I get the gh Kh higher? Without raising tds

cardinia tank: Using salty shrimp gh+

cycling at 120 tds will check gh tomorrow 

tds out of ro unit is 000

what should I be doing?

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8 minutes ago, Able said:

neo tanks: using salty shrimp gh-kh+

I can get the tds to 200 but the gh is only 6?

kh is 2?

why can’t I get the gh Kh higher? Without raising tds

Those are fine for a Neo tank. If you use a premixed remineraliser, you are bound to what the manufacturer set.

If you want more control, you need to look at doing your own remineraliser, but that is for the more advanced shrimp keeper.

 

10 minutes ago, Able said:

cardinia tank: Using salty shrimp gh+

cycling at 120 tds will check gh tomorrow 

tds out of ro unit is 000

what should I be doing?

Aim for 120-130 TDS for a Caridina tank. 

Premix the GH+ powder into an empty bottle of water (500ml). Put in1/4 bottle of the GH+ powder, and fill the rest with RO water.

Then all you need to do is drip a little from this bottle till your water change gets to 120TDS. You have essentially made yourself a liquid concentrated remineraliser. No need to fool around with powder doses any more.

 

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I will try and answer this as best I can............

The commercial GH+ or GH/KH+ powder is made to create a set level of parameters and minerals that suit the shrimps requirements perfectly, to help them stay healthy and moult etc! Using RO water it will produce a certain preset ratio of TDS/GH/KH/PH, dependant on which product you use.

Think of it as if making a cake, you need certain ingredients and the right proportions of each ingredient for it to work well, too much (or too little) of something means it won't work properly?

Some people prefer to make their own mixture of minerals rather than buy the commercial products!

Hope this helps you understand?

Simon

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If you purchased Salty Shrimp GH+, that is a premixed mineraliser. That means the manufacturer has premixed Calcium sulphate and Magnesium sulphate together at a ratio of around 4:1. If you want more control over the Ca:Mg ratio or if you want to make GH/KH+ you can purchase these ingredients and mix your own. 

I have a sticky post in Water Parameters, if you are ever curious of making your own remineraliser.

 

If you want a bit more control over the parameters you get from Salty Shrimp ... mix it into a plastic water bottle. Fill 1/4 or 1/3 of the bottle with SS GH+ and add RO water. Dissolve the SS GH+ and drip only as much as you need from the bottle for each water change.

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I tried that trick in the bottle and worked nicely.

Here’s the 10 gallon cardinia tank only have 5 crs and 5 cbs and one blue bolt 

A9E6997F-4F76-43F1-BA33-F963893B597A.jpeg

The wood is buried to keep it from floating till it’s water logged.

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6 minutes ago, Able said:

Here’s the 10 gallon cardinia tank

Nice and minimalist.

What is that substrate you are using? It's so "round".

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Aqueon shrimp substrate 

Thank you work in sloooow progress. Looks kinda boring now

Need some ideas to make it not “minimalist “

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That’s insane 

love it

looks like a 20-30 gallon with built in feeding area.?

Sand substrate?

i have a paper with tank stats like you under all of mine too lol

Edited by Able
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Yes filter has a fine mesh inside like the ones from shrimp king but not their brand 

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20gal long. Yes we did add a feeding area. Caribsea Super Naturals Sunset Gold Sand. Haha yeah I like to keep record. If not I’ll forget lol

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I usually use a dry erase marker and write it all on top left corner of each tank but wiped it off for the picture lol

Edited by Able
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Wife just hung this up for me yesterday

C0F3E80A-EC2F-4018-936D-0D4DFA3333DC.jpeg

Also The adding DI to RO is good. Some say you don’t need it but it just helps. Before I switched to RO I had a TDS of 420. 10% water changes once a week for 4 weeks. Brought it to 205 TDS. Now I remineralize with shrimp king GH/kh to 205. All good!

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I use a website/app called ‘AquaticLog’ to keep track of everything. Really well designed and helpful.

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    • sdlTBfanUK
      You may end up losing this batch entirely but then you can start completely fresh and get the aquarium set up right for the next batch of shrimp! If you do any large water changes then try and add the new water slowly, either dripper or some other way. You should get yourself a TDS meter (as JayC above), they are cheap and readily available. You should always use a GH tester kit as well with shrimps, if you do the 50% water change that should halve the GH so you should get a reading after that, or if you can get a local fish store to test it for you that will give you an idea of the GH. If your water supply is as hard as it appears it may be you will need to mull over how (or even IF) you want to keep shrimps as that may mean using RO or distilled/bottled water and buying a proper shrimp specific remineraliser? That will be quite expensive but you won't then have to mess about adding crushed coral/eggshells etc, but only you can decide whether you want to do/spend that much etc? If you live somewhere that gets a lot of rain, then you can use rain water? Also, as JayC states, you need to know what you are using/adding to the water and aquarium, ie fertilizers, rocks. Unless you have very exotic plants you shouldn't need any fertilizers. Just as a note, we have come across quite a few experienced fish keeprs that have this sort of start off issues with shrimp. Shrimp are more difficult than fish, and the aquarium and water etc need to be ready and within the required parameters before getting the shrimps. Usually people jump in, get the shrimps before everything is ready/sorted. Hopefully though you will keep at it, or if this lot die you will have another go and we can help you get it sorted?
    • jayc
      These are all classic symptoms of shrimp moulting problems.   Again, another high GH symptom. High GH not only causes harder carapace (shell), but it also makes eggs harder. When the egg is harder the male finds it more difficult to fertilise the eggs.   That's a worry if you can't get a good GH reading because that is going to be most likely issue right now for you.   Because snails don't moult.    If you dont already have a TDS meter, I suggest getting one asap. It's another test to narrow down your water parameters, and not have to trust one test by it's own - in this case the GH test kit. I would wager your water parameter is too high in dissolved minerals - likely from the tap water source, fertiliser dosing and/or any rocks/crushed corals you might have in the tank. To remedy this, you need to start doing water changes with RO, distilled or rain water immediately. I would do a 50% water change with RO water asap. Then look for sources that increase GH in the tank and eliminate it - fertilisers, rocks, crush corals, shells.    It's difficult to save a shrimp who's carapace is already too hard, but hopefully any younger shrimps will benefit from the water change and the reduced GH.   Good luck and keep us updated.
    • professionalshrimphugger
      United States. I have tested my tap water; it yields the same results. GH: ??, KH: 3, pH: 7.8. I cannot say for sure if my GH test is faulty or not, the expiration is until 2023. It's more of a twitching, then stasis. I have one shrimp that's having a hard time balancing itself, but it's swimmerets and mouth keep moving in attempt in getting back up. I allowed it to stick to my sponge filter. The tank is cycled. I used established media. Readings would not show 0 otherwise. I do use EI Dosing, half dosage recommended for a 20 gallon. It has been said on other forums that it does not affect shrimp, but I stopped dosing to isolate variables a week ago. No CO2, that's too costly for me, hah. I drip acclimated the shrimp for 2 hours, 1 drop per second. I tested for copper in my tank, nothing. Funnily enough, my mystery snails in my community tank don't seem too affected by it.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Sorry to hear you are having a problem! Where are you based in the world? Can you test your tapwater GH/KH/PH? Best to know what the source water is, dechlorinated (if required) before you have ADDED anything. Are you sure the GH test is working and not old, or already activated/contaminated somehow? The other parameters seem ok! If the GH is as ridiculousy high as you say then I expect the shrimps would have problems molting (they may be twitching to get out of the old shell), though generally twitchy behaviour is usually down to some sort of toxic poisoning or the aquarium not being properly cycled? Are you using any plant fertiser or CO2?  Did you drip acclimate the shrimp over many hours before adding them to the aquarium? They are much more sensitive than fish to changes in water parameters etc. You could end up killing more of them by moving them so I would hold off from that at the moment!  
    • professionalshrimphugger
      Hello all, I am new to the forum, although experienced at fishkeeping, I am relatively new to shrimpkeeping. Let's start with my issue. I had started a colony of 18 juvenile cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) in a 20 gallon long as of last month. I solely use tap water and change 5% per week. They are the only inhabitants alongside a single juvenile Malaysian trumpet snail. Today the numbers have been reduced to 9. The deaths did not start until the shrimp turned into adults, where they have struggled, twitching as if provoked, becoming lethargic, and eventually flipping over to their side and dying. Only the ones on the verge of death exhibit this behavior, whereas the rest simply graze on as usual. I measured my parameters today - my tank has been established for two months as of now and is densely planted. They have never bred despite being of adult size and having visible saddles. Never an issue with molting. Ammonia: 0 ppm, Nitrite: 0 ppm, Nitrate: 0-5 ppm || pH: 7.8, GH: ??, KH: 3 I cannot get a single good read off API's liquid GH test. I have dropped beyond 30+ and gave up as I knew the numbers were already extreme. The thing is, I need a temporary, inexpensive solution to keep my shrimp safe. I believe by the time I order supplies, the colony would already give. I was planning on moving the colony to a 5.5g, barren with my floating plants and mosses, using just distilled water, Seachem Equilibrium (only GH additive I own) and crushed eggshells (potential source of KH). Possibly crushed coral to substitute for the lack of any real mineral additive. I did not believe that high GH would possibly become a problem, and I am fortunate that the strugglers are still alive. If anyone has a solution to this problem, or approve of my plan of action, please let me know. TIA
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