Jump to content

Anyone tried to reduce PH with black tea?


inkspot007
 Share

Recommended Posts

i'm trying something and wondered if anybody else have tried it. I have seen from many fellow aquarium keepers that, to lower PH in your water, adding driftwood, leaves, etc. will reduce PH and the tannins in the wood and dried leaves will do the trick. So, I thought, black tea might do the same. I drink black tea and, since I have used teabags every time I have tea, why not try it in my higher-PH aquarium and see. I checked with simple strip and, indeed, the black tea I was drinking was more less acidic, below 6.8 PH.  My well water for my aquarium (30 gallon) is about 7.2 PH. While it is fine for my fish and shrimp, I just wanted to experiment a bit. Seeing that black tea is safe to drink, it should be safe for fish tanks as well. I guess if you want quick result you could use a fresh new teabag but I thought that might be too strong. Anyways, just thought I put it out there and see. My result is, yes, it does reduce the PH but slowly.  I am cautiously checking and see if my fish/shrimp will behave differently in lower PH.

Teabag.jpg

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's an interesting experiment. It will obviously brown the water, and you need to be sure the tea is organically produced, and some bags have a staple for the chord so this can't be copper etc?

Most people use RO water for shrimps that need a low PH and RO water has a low PH anyway.

I will be interested to hear how you get on though!

Simon

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Using tea to add tannins and reduce pH is not new. All sorts of tea leaves can be used. I have personally tried and used Green tea leaves, Jasmine tea leaves and Rooibos.

And yes they work, very effectively. I suggest Rooibos, as that is supposed to have no caffeine. Black tea is much higher in caffeine content than the tea leaves I listed above. Just boil it, let it cool and add into the tank.

It's not for everyone, as Simon indicated. It turns the water a ... tea colour. ? ?

But I used it to recreate an Amazonian biotope. That dark tea colour is perfect for dwarf cichlids, discus, angels, tetras, anything from South America. Apart from colour, there are natural anti bacterial properties due to the increased tannins as well. So it's good for the fish.

You will need to keep adding new tea leaves if you want to keep maintaining a low pH however. Unless you do something about the water that is being added. If your water changes are with Hard water, it will be a constant battle to reduce pH.

Edited by jayc
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My shrimp tank uses dried Indian almond for the food and grow biofilm, Indian almond leave also stabilize the water for the right condition right for shrimps.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...

It is an interesting experiment! Most people use RO water for shrimps that need a low PH and RO water has a low PH anyway.

I will really be interested to hear how to get this though. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...

The pH of drinking water is very important and should be between 6.2 and 8.5, with a domestic ro system the alkalinity level varies depending on location, but may vary from 80 to 400 ppm (mg/L). Although domestic ro systems are great for removing contaminants that have low solubility at high temperatures, they are not good at removing dissolved metals or organic chemicals which have high solubility in water. Another interesting tip is that domestic ro system filters should be changed on a regular basis, some domestic ro systems have cartridges that need to be replaced every 3 months, while some domestic ro systems can last up to 6 months.

Edited by Franks
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      Welcome fellow UK shrimp keeper! I would think it would be better to remove the shrimp into the quarantine tank and keep them there whilst you treat the fish in the main tank and once you finish treating the tank and fish do a complete water change (maybe 2 a week apart for safety) before returning the shrimps. That would seem the best option though obviously the shrimp would need to be in the separate tank for weeks. I'm not aware of any medications available for ICH that won't kill shriimp and/or snails. With neocaridina they probably will just about survive 30 degrees but you are pushing it close to the limit! I don't believe ich affects shrimps.
    • ferret-confirmed
      Re-posting here from The Shrimp Spot forum as I need help. Help, 40 litre tank has a ich (ichthyophtyirius multifiliis) / white spot outbreak. We've been able to separate the few surviving neon tetra into an emergency quarantine tank, with appropriate medicine for the fish. We had done this as we had noticed the issue practically too late as we miss identified the white spots as cotton mouth (which the tetra also have). We luckily quarantined the fish from the tank as  the ich reached its second stage as most have matured and abandoned the fish. This has become an issue as even if the neon tetra do not survive the treatment, I cannot re-add them to the tank and I don't want to keep the tank's environment full of parasites. Thankfully ich seem to not be able to effect the shrimp but the medicine we have for them is toxic to the shrimp and the plants in the tank, hence the separating of the neon tetra. I was wondering if there was anything I can do to the tank while the shrimp are still in the tank, as removing them isn't a viable option. We've been trying to get the temp of the tank to 30C and leaving it at that temp for an hour, however the tank's heater is verry slow and doesn't seem to be going up past 27C. From what I've searched 30C should kill of the ich without irritating the bloody mary shrimp too much (too many websites vary their recommended temp, so I wouldn't keep it above 28C long if we were able to get it that high) If anyone knows if there are any ich treatments or methods of killing ich that are safe for invertebrates and potentially plants I would love if they could suggest one.
    • Moul1974
      For beginners and smaller tanks, I recommend glass aquariums because of their affordability and scratch resistance. For larger, more advanced aquariums, we recommend acrylic because it's lighter and easier to repair than glass.
    • becky
      Hooray! I was hoping it was molt but he hasnt progressed at all in about a week. Thank you guys so much for your help again. Ill keep an eye out. 
    • jayc
      It looks like the shrimp is about to moult.  I don't keep Ghost shrimp, so I'm not too familiar with how they look when going into a moult. But the white band along each joint is common in other shrimp when they start to moult.
×
×
  • Create New...