-
Similar Content
-
By Shrimpfan111
Hello everyone, i need help, i have never kept shrimp before, but i wish to keep amano shrimp and a couple of aquatic snails, i need it to be amano shrimp because i don’t want them to breed until i become more experienced
the question i’m asking is if anyone knows how to tell the difference between amano shrimp and whisker shrimp, i’ve heard horror stories of people getting the former or the latter when they wanted the opposite from uneducated petshop owners, and i have been told whisker shrimp are very aggressive, and i fear that if i ended up with any on accident that it would end badly for my other shrimp and my snails
-
By TotalNewb
Help please!
I bought a rack set up with 9 tanks and a sump. It is full of stock, neo-cardinia, cardinia and sulawazi shrimps + a tank of endler guppys.
I am collecting it tomorrow with help from friends and a borrowed van.
Has anyone moved a rack before and what tips can they share please?
We were thinking of lowering the water level right down and then moving them very gently in the cars - with the water in 25L drums in the van cause I don't have that much RO water spare so it will be going back in as soon as we can set it up.
They are moving less than 2km down the road and I will have my heating on full blast to keep the house warm - current temperature here is about 10 degrees celcius.
I am worried about the Sulawasis but I reckon if we keep them plugged in with the heater for as long as possible and put them back ASAP they "Should" be ok...fingers crossed.
I just read that tanks should never be moved with water in them but it will take HOURS to catch all the shrimp as there are literally hundreds of them
-
By BID
Hi!
I found today the smallest of my 6 shrimp dead and can't figure out why and am hoping for help. They seemed generally less active in the last week or two, and I have noticed that they fan their belly flaps quite a lot (though none of my shrimp are berried, at least I am pretty sure, the eggs always seem pretty obvious on photos). Is it maybe too little oxygen?
The dead shrimp appears completely normal to me, and I found it lying on its side in the middle of the tank, still flapping it's belly fins. I put it in a glass with tank water where aber about 15minutes it stopped moving completely, even if prodded.
It shouldn't be a shedding issue, as I think this shrimp has shed about 4 days ago. It's the smallest of the 6 (almost half the size of my biggest) so I figured it must be juvenile and it shouldn't be age.
I do have some worms in there that I can't seem to get rid of, but I'm quite sure none of them are planaria. Seems to be some sort of white flat worm that usually sticks to the glass and very thin hair like ones that float around.
All my cherry shrimp are solid red, so I can't see if they have bacterial infection. There always seems to be one of two that are paler/mottled but as they shed I think it's that? I have a hard time keeping them apart tbh
I did a 50% water change and removed most of the floating plants in case there wasn't enough aeration.
My goal with making this post is to maybe find out what might have killed it/how to avoid further deaths. I'm happy for any advice!
Background/setup:
This is my first aquarium, just as a disclaimer, so I'm gonna list...everything, not that I oversaw sth stupid.
I got 6 cherry shrimp and 5 MTS(that have made about two dozen babies by now) approx. 5 weeks ago. The tank had been set up and running w/ plants and filter 4 weeks before that.
It's ~25L, running a sponge filter with air pump, have some java fern and moss, wood, flourite black sand, and dwarf grass(?) and a lot of tiny floating plants on top. The light sold with the aquarium (very bright) and a desk lamp (less bright) that I use sporadically.
They get fed JBL 'Nano Prawn' pellets (which they don't seem to be fond of) and sometimes blanched spinach/peas/lettuce (which they will fight eachother for). Would they starve themselves for not getting the beloved spinach&peas???
Measured half an hour ago upon finding the dead shrimp:
PH: 7.2
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: ~5 (now probably 2.5 as I just did a 50% water change)
Temp: 22-24C
I do use dechlorinator (tetra tap safe).
I currently don't have a gh/kh test but it's on the shopping list. They have a small piece (2x2cm) of cuttle bone permanently floating around the tank, as Glasgow water is supposedly soft and between snails and shrimp i figured they'd need it.
It has been stable like this for at least 3 weeks now, before that, week 1-2 of having the shrimp, the ph was a little lower and small amounts of ammonia/nitrite.
From what I read this should all be fine?
-
By wayne6442
Cherax quadricarinatus (Redclaw Grayfish) Back in 1985, I started a semi commercial venture breeding Redclaw Crayfish for the commercial market. My set up consisted of four 5,000 litre above ground swimming pools, set side by side with an overflow water exchange feature, a swimming pool pump and a pool sand filter. Water pick up for filtering was regulated from each pool passed down a common pipe to the filter, and from there the water was returned to the ponds via a spray system from above. This ensured that the returning filtered water was well airated for the redclaws. My initial stock consisted of about 400 wild caught Redclaws from Northern Queensland split roughly between the four pools. About three weeks before stocking I seeded each pool with about 10 kilos each of mud from a local dam and cow manure from a dairy farm,to set up the bio eco system that the cray's would need This venture ran well for about three years, I was supplying my restaurant and others with live crayfish an a weekly basis. AND THEN!!! the government started to interfere by imposing strict live fish trading rules and introducing very expensive licensing fees. Unfortunately, The combination of both were enough to force me to close down my enterprise.
(Cherax Quadricarinatus)! Redclaw Crayfish also known as the Tropical Blue crayfish,and Australian Freshwater Crayfish. Redclaw crayfish are a moderately large crayfish, and can reach lengths of over 90 mm and weigh in anywhere between 300 and 600 grams. They have a smooth body which is greenish/blueish in colour, the male of the species is distinguished by a bright red colouring on the margins of their large claws. The Redclaw is native to the upper reaches of the rivers in north eastern Australia and Papua New Guinea. It's preferred habitat is in high turbidity,slow moving streams or static waterholes. Redclaw prefer sites with abundant aquatic vegetation that provides cover. Redclaw do not burrow into the riverbanks like other Cherax species but prefer to hide in natural depressions,under rocks or amongst vegetation. Female Redclaw brood their eggs for six to ten weeks, depending on temperature. Most produce between 300 to 800 eggs per brood and they sometime breed five to six times per season. Water temperature is important for breeding with the preferred range being 23 C to 31 C. Hatchling's resemble the adults and remain attached to the undersides of the female for several weeks before becoming independent male Redclaw
Redclaw are NOT good aquarium tank mates, DO NOT KEEP THEM IN WITH OTHER FISH OR PLANTED TANKS. Although more placid than their other Charex cousins, they can get very agro when they have a mind to. My tip is to house them in a large aquarium 60 cm or larger with plenty of structure for hiding places so as they can get away from each other especially during times when they are moulting. The female also becomes very territorial when berried. FEEDING: They are omnivores but tend to eat more vegetable material, I have known them to munch into driftwood in their tank, they are not good fisherman being slower than other Cherax species, but that does not exclude fresh fish from their diet. They do like chicken pellets, a very small piece of red meat , worms, and fish.
I found that water temperature at around 25C to be good ( don't go up to 31C) good filtration with plenty of surface movement. PH between 6 and 7.5 although they can stand higher. Selective Breeding : I found the Redclaw to be relative easy contender for selective breeding ,having success in breeding a beautiful deep blue, pale blue, a deep green and an almost albino over successive generations. I also found that sometimes they will revert back to their original colours when severely stressed. I hope that this article will help some of you who are contemplating keeping Redcaw Crayfish.
Male Blue Female White
Disclaimer : The information contained in this article is purely from my own experiences and is by no means intended to be completely right in my findings Wayne Summerhayes
-
By wayne6442
Cherax quadricarinatus (Redclaw Grayfish) Back in 1985, I started a semi commercial venture breeding Redclaw Crayfish for the commercial market. My set up consisted of four 5,000 litre above ground swimming pools, set side by side with an overflow water exchange feature, a swimming pool pump and a pool sand filter. Water pick up for filtering was regulated from each pool passed down a common pipe to the filter, and from there the water was returned to the ponds via a spray system from above. This ensured that the returning filtered water was well airated for the redclaws. My initial stock consisted of about 400 wild caught Redclaws from Northern Queensland split roughly between the four pools. About three weeks before stocking I seeded each pool with about 10 kilos each of mud from a local dam and cow manure from a dairy farm,to set up the bio eco system that the cray's would need This venture ran well for about three years, I was supplying my restaurant and others with live crayfish an a weekly basis. AND THEN!!! the government started to interfere by imposing strict live fish trading rules and introducing very expensive licensing fees. Unfortunately, The combination of both were enough to force me to close down my enterprise.
(Cherax Quadricarinatus)! Redclaw Crayfish also known as the Tropical Blue crayfish,and Australian Freshwater Crayfish. Redclaw crayfish are a moderately large crayfish, and can reach lengths of over 90 mm and weigh in anywhere between 300 and 600 grams. They have a smooth body which is greenish/blueish in colour, the male of the species is distinguished by a bright red colouring on the margins of their large claws. The Redclaw is native to the upper reaches of the rivers in north eastern Australia and Papua New Guinea. It's preferred habitat is in high turbidity,slow moving streams or static waterholes. Redclaw prefer sites with abundant aquatic vegetation that provides cover. Redclaw do not burrow into the riverbanks like other Cherax species but prefer to hide in natural depressions,under rocks or amongst vegetation. Female Redclaw brood their eggs for six to ten weeks, depending on temperature. Most produce between 300 to 800 eggs per brood and they sometime breed five to six times per season. Water temperature is important for breeding with the preferred range being 23 C to 31 C. Hatchling's resemble the adults and remain attached to the undersides of the female for several weeks before becoming independent male Redclaw
Redclaw are NOT good aquarium tank mates, DO NOT KEEP THEM IN WITH OTHER FISH OR PLANTED TANKS. Although more placid than their other Charex cousins, they can get very agro when they have a mind to. My tip is to house them in a large aquarium 60 cm or larger with plenty of structure for hiding places so as they can get away from each other especially during times when they are moulting. The female also becomes very territorial when berried. FEEDING: They are omnivores but tend to eat more vegetable material, I have known them to munch into driftwood in their tank, they are not good fisherman being slower than other Cherax species, but that does not exclude fresh fish from their diet. They do like chicken pellets, a very small piece of red meat , worms, and fish.
I found that water temperature at around 25C to be good ( don't go up to 31C) good filtration with plenty of surface movement. PH between 6 and 7.5 although they can stand higher. Selective Breeding : I found the Redclaw to be relative easy contender for selective breeding ,having success in breeding a beautiful deep blue, pale blue, a deep green and an almost albino over successive generations. I also found that sometimes they will revert back to their original colours when severely stressed. I hope that this article will help some of you who are contemplating keeping Redcaw Crayfish.
Male Blue Female White
Disclaimer : The information contained in this article is purely from my own experiences and is by no means intended to be completely right in my findings Wayne Summerhayes
View full article
-
-
Must Read SKF Articles
-
-
Posts
-
-
-
By JMo · Posted
Tap water TDS is 235 after some calculation it seems that I am getting a 97% rejection rate which is not to bad. I'm getting 6 TDS for my RO unit which is leading me to believe that it could be from the RO membrane though I am running dual RO membrane to help the RO to waste water ratio and dual sediment filters which might be overkill haha. -
By JMo · Posted
I would also agree that it is an African cichlid. For apistogramma, I normally let the parents raise the fry until the female starts becoming aggressive towards the male. Only then do I separate the male. From my experience apistogramma fry can eat BBS right away. I've never had fry that we too small to eat BBS. There are a few smaller apistorgrammas like the psammophila which may be an exception. -
By jayc · Posted
Definitely. Old RO membrane will let some TDS through. What TDS do you get out of the Tap?
-
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now