Jump to content
Crabclaw

My 110 L Community Tank

Recommended Posts

Crabclaw

Hey guys, I thought I’d just make a single topic for my community tank, so I stop running around in other chats asking the same questions 😁. I’m going thru a big change in the tank at the moment, so will likely update in the morning with photos once the cloudiness is gone. Be prepared for a possibly very long message about a 10 hour process 😂.

Cheerio!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc

Looking forward to it.😀

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Crabclaw

Ok, so I’ve had water hardness issues for a while now, so after determining the issue as the gravel and rocks, I decided to rescape my tank with inert substrate and rocks (rocks looked good, couldn’t help myself...). Yesterday I made the switch, and the process took from about 9 in the morning to 5 in the evening. 

The steps I took (for anyone planning to do this in future) were first emptying the water halfway, then turning off the filter and heater, and realising I’d burnt out the heater (ARGH!), then draining the water to maybe 10 centimetres, and removing the driftwood and plants. The rocks had been removed 2 months prior. I then caught out every last little fish, counting along the way, as well as my shrimp. I chose to keep 5 Malaysian trumpet snails as future breeding stock, cuz they’re really cool (and even better in sand!). I housed my 5 shrimp, trumpet snails and 3 juvenile BNs in a small plastic container, so I could keep track of them, and the rest of the fish in a 50 Litre tub with the plants and wood. The tub was filled to 3/4 with the tank water.

I proceeded to remove the rest of the water, before bagging the gravel to see if I can get a refund. Then I was stuck with this weird black water at the bottom of the tank, along with a little bit of invisible gravel. I removed this with paper towels. Now I cleaned out the tank with my algae scraper and more paper towels (so much for team trees 😄). Next I cut a black yoga mat down to the size of my tank’s bottom (idea from Joey, King of DIY) and got a hand to lift the tank up while the mat was slid underneath. This is to cushion out any areas of high pressure, to prevent the glass from cracking, since the cabinet is getting a smidge of swelling. It worked pretty great.

After this, the next stage was to chuck in all the sand. I chose Pisces x Oliver Knott AquaIron, as it is inert, and it looks great so far! Unfortunately it only comes in 15kg, and I needed a 20-25 kegga, so it's spread a bit thin, but it should do. Next step was to set up the hardscape - the driftwood and new rocks (the rocks are called 'red wood rock', lfs said they had tested and they were inert) - so I mucked around and found a good look, then got some help and started to set up for the planting. Got my mate to sort the plants while I filled up the tank with 'aged' dechlorinated water (aged for the hour it took to plant before I could put the fish back in 😄). Once the water was filled, I stuck the filter on, tried to stick the heater on (and realised it had reached the point of no return, so yay, gotta buy another) and then we started planting. Once it was sorted, I had the fun time of catching all the fish AGAIN, getting them in, and then I got to clean up my huge mess... 

One thing I would have changed is acclimating my fish and shrimp before putting them back in the tank. And also not killing my heater. And maybe making a less stressful environment in the holding tub, because my blue Apistogramma turned orange 😂

 

Anyway, still have a bunch planned for the tank, next step is grabbing a new test kit (as I've run out) and heater, and seeing if I’ve fixed the problem. From there I can remove the Apistogrammas and change up the stock! I’ll keep this page updated for anyone who cares 😁

Also photos coming soon of the tank before, after, and during the fix.

🦀🦀🦀

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Crabclaw

Photos time.

71304251-288B-424A-91A7-FA553EE7982A.jpeg

87EC4F30-DAD5-43E7-9143-45FF0E358E83.jpeg

6EC8EA19-DD47-43F5-9BB5-C710EA392C99.jpeg

7033E3F6-4B6C-4E27-B116-67DB84784429.jpeg

CB1AE6FA-7DCE-44B4-A8BE-CCBC238A37F8.jpeg

8C5AC585-19B8-4C1F-8B96-71B6A5AEC342.jpeg

515DB571-69A3-462C-826F-1D1EB8803C2B.jpeg

BC42B834-36F8-42C0-AD88-DB02EC5F2425.jpeg

13B31E69-9EC7-4B83-B209-4904CC9501CC.jpeg

FD85681A-D2ED-4B8F-9FF6-B644FD86E267.jpeg

A826DCB2-9739-4B23-B7D5-70403B110182.jpeg

DFF729B5-77AF-4755-BC99-0A17B8118F2A.jpeg

E5DE5C21-7FD6-445A-B00F-E12ADCC4E250.jpeg

778A7C83-A361-4EF7-BDF8-B70D2FD60B12.jpeg

FA18BB85-29D7-4EB5-8F3A-E02EC693870B.jpeg

image.jpg

Edited by Crabclaw
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Elkwatcher

That's real nice @Crabclaw  Well laid out... black sand sure does make it, and the rock and driftwood are wonderful.  Do you think you might try some floaters?  

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Crabclaw
1 hour ago, Elkwatcher said:

That's real nice @Crabclaw  Well laid out... black sand sure does make it, and the rock and driftwood are wonderful.  Do you think you might try some floaters?  

Thanks Trish! If by floaters you mean floating plants, I have some duckweed in there that’s growing back, but may consider some other larger types once I restock my rocket killies, they love that sort of stuff.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Crabclaw

So I got a new heater at my lfs, and picked up some api liquid testers, and am pleased to say it’s all looking good! Temp is now sitting at a nice 22°, will amp up the heater to get it to 24° later. Ammonia is unreadable, as is the Nitrate and Nitrite. pH is at 6.8-6.9, and GH and KH are both at 38.5 ppm. May need to add some GH/KH+ for once! 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
sdlTBfanUK

I may have misunderstood but don't you mean GH+ as these are tangerine tiger and you already have KH of about 2???

Tank setup looks great!

Simon

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Crabclaw

Oh, would I need to use just GH+? As I bought GH/KH+ a while ago, thinking that’s what I would need, and have never had to use it thanks to my evil substrate. I don’t really want to be spending another $40 on another product that I might not even need to use. Would I be alright just keeping it as is, so as to not complicate it further, and have more stable parameters? Or would GH/KH+ work, (sorta) as I think it raises the GH further... 

If you do think I need a GH+, then is there another brand that doesn’t cost heaps for a pile of powder?

Anyway, thanks Simon!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc

I reckon, do whatever you need to do to maintain the parameters you have right now for Tangerine Tigers.

If GH/KH+ maintains the parameters, than that is what you use.

If you think Salty shrimp is expensive, that's when you need to read my DIY recipe for remineralisers in the Water Parameter subforum.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Crabclaw
3 hours ago, jayc said:

If you think Salty shrimp is expensive, that's when you need to read my DIY recipe for remineralisers in the Water Parameter subforum.

Will do! Thanks jayc 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
sdlTBfanUK

If it is working as it is then I would do as JayC says, TT are almost as tough as cherry shrimps so they may be fine. 

The GH/KH will increase those at 2:1 respectively and I think it may also increase the PH also. It is designed for cherry shrimps but I think you may be ok with TT as well as many people keep those together as they don't interbreed and both are tough? Just be aware that GH/KH+ will affect those 3 parameters and not just the GH!

As I say though, if the shrimps are doing fine maybe don't use anything - if it's not broken don't try and fix it!

Simon

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • sdlTBfanUK
      By sdlTBfanUK
      It is probably too early to start this but as I have no idea really what I am doing I thought it a good idea to maybe get others thoughts/ideas from the beginning?
      The aim is to find out if I can reduce the life of the 'buffering' of soil substrates for anyone wanting to use soil substrate with cherry shrimps which do better at higher PH than buffering substrates run, until they are exhausted, and before they get shrimps in the tank - that can't be many people I know???
      I set up a betta tank mid March and the buffering with the JBL substrate stopped about 4 months later., though you may be able to knock off a month as I was only doing part (25%) water changes?  Obviously no one wants to wait that long so I am just trying this experiment as I have 2L of shrimp king soil left over anyway. that I won't use!
      At the moment I have put 5L dechlorinated tap water in a bucket with 1L of substrate. The tap water is PH7.5 (KH3, TDS 154) and I am planning to do 50% water changes twice a week until the PH gets back to the 7.5 at which point I can assume it is exhausted? I will then try the same experiment using PH+ to see if that will speed up the process, but I haven't ordered that just yet?
      Any suggestions, am I doing it correctly, does it even make any sense?
      So this should give me an idea of how long it will take to stop buffering just using tap water but doing twice weekly 50% water changes, and then whether using PH+ would speed it up notably?
      This is just to get an idea, and different soil substrates will probably be different so I am not really looking for a definite answer as to the time length etc, more an idea as to whether either of these will work well for others in the future that want to keep cherry shrimp with the soil substrates. Having said that I have always kept cherry shrimp in lower than recommended PH (to start wirh) without a problem anyway?
      Simon 
       
    • Crabclaw
      By Crabclaw
      Hey guys, just found an add for this website showcasing a cool-lookin native algae eating shrimp.
      https://algaeeatingshrimp.com.au/products/australian-algae-eating-shrimp
      Anyone heard of these before or own any? My interest was peaked by the claim that they eat hair-type algae, as I have some on my crypts and lace fern that I cannot remove. And for a price of $4 ea, and super easy parameters, they sound pretty doable! 
      Tell me more oh great SKFians! 😁
      (or feel free to point me towards an already existing page)
      post-note: have you/do you keep these grubs? Seems like your sort of thing.
    • Crabclaw
      By Crabclaw
      Hey guys, I’m going away for a few weeks and having a neighbour take care of my tank, as they are already gonna be caring for my cat during that period. I’ll be away for 2 and a half weeks, so not a huge amount of time, but the neighbour doesn’t have any experience with fish or shrimp tank maintenance.
      The tank will be fine without a water change during that time as long as I do one before I leave, I know that, but my 2 main problems are feeding and stopping my intake sponge from clogging up.
      For feeding I was considering getting a couple of pill boxes, like the ones that have seperate compartments for each day of the week, so I can set a certain amount for each day, and which foods.
      But for the intake sponge, I’m pretty stumped. My current intake is a sponge filter connected to the intake pipe, but it’s been clogging up once or twice a week due to how fine it is (and how messy my fish are). When it’s clogged, it puts strain on the canister filter’s motor, and that’s not good. I don’t trust her with cleaning it safely, plus I’m only paying her for 5 mins in the morning, and 5 at night. I’ve considered a mesh intake, but it looks like it could hurt a fish if it went past it quickly... plus I can’t check the size of the inside where the pipe could go as the only one I’ve found would have to be posted.
      Are there easy alternatives that I wouldn’t have to mod, or do intake sponges come in courser versions? (I haven’t checked).
       
      Any input would be appreciated!
       
    • Crabclaw
      By Crabclaw
      Hey guys, I’m really wanting to get freshwater crabs, and the only ones I’ve found are A. Lacustris and A. Laevis. I can only put them in a 110 L community tank for now, but may have another option in the future. The tank is stocked with a large school of ember tetras, some rocket killies, some endlers, some tangerine tiger shrimp, and a pair of apistogrammas. Rare aqua advised that A. Lacustris would likely be eaten by the apistos, so the obvious choice would be A. Laevis, because they’re larger... right? But I’m worried that they might predate upon my shrimp, so wanted to hear some advice and opinions from more people with experience keeping these crabs.
      Cheers!
×
×
  • Create New...